Need help!!

wooo..
syed!!.. care to take photo ar.. and post it here.. me oso never see it ler!!!

chu,

can ar!!!.. think wil get me mech...

7,
will get me mech on the price ler... catch up later!!
 
RM 300 for the disc and caliper only ??? wat bout the hand brake tali..???
if got all that rm300 cheap ah ....
 
latest status!!! for you nasiaq!!!

me mech .. cakked.. two days back.. saying the new disc dah masuk..
waht disc.. he said come and see ler!!.. so waiting ti go back.. by 23rd.. to have a look at the disc ler.. hopefully can test the car ler.. so rindu oredi!!!
 
They are more prone to breaking; you'd be surprised coz they're supposed to cool the discs better, right ? It's true but on the other hand, drilling & slots also weakened the structure of the disc.
Bro, I thought the reason they drilled and slotted the OEM rotors is to improve braking... so that the brake pad will makan kau kau (bite). Of cause it will weaken the strength la, for sure. Correct me if I'm wrong... :hmmmm:
 
Bro, I thought the reason they drilled and slotted the OEM rotors is to improve braking... so that the brake pad will makan kau kau (bite). Of cause it will weaken the strength la, for sure. Correct me if I'm wrong... :hmmmm:
What I'm trying to say if you drill & slot a standard disc / rotor, there's chances that you may weaken its structure. In theory, its still serves the same purpose; cooling it.

The holes cool it & the slots are to de-glaze the brake pads. You know after hard braking, the pads' surface gets shiny & becomes like very smooth. So the slots sorta scrapes off that glazed layer to get a coarse surface to create more friction, hence more biting again.

Ready made branded cross drilled & slotted disc rotors different mar, factory made. They'd know how deep should the slots be & how many holes they can make to retain its structure intergrity as they've gone thru R&D.

So IMHO, it's not advisable to drill or slot a disc that was not specifically made for it. If you check your disc rotor, the inside, it's written "minimum thickness XX". If you've reached that minimum thickness, you'll have to replace it with a new rotor.
 
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Bro... digicam x bawak la... if not sure i post the picture.... if brembo... sre shamburke buy front one...
 
What I'm trying to say if you drill & slot a standard disc / rotor, there's chances that you may weaken its structure. In theory, its still serves the same purpose; cooling it.

The holes cool it & the slots are to de-glaze the brake pads. You know after hard braking, the pads' surface gets shiny & becomes like very smooth. So the slots sorta scrapes off that glazed layer to get a coarse surface to create more friction, hence more biting again.

Ready made branded cross drilled & slotted disc rotors different mar, factory made. They'd know how deep should the slots be & how many holes they can make to retain its structure intergrity as they've gone thru R&D.

So IMHO, it's not advisable to drill or slot a disc that was not specifically made for it. If you check your disc rotor, the inside, it's written "minimum thickness XX". If you've reached that minimum thickness, you'll have to replace it with a new rotor.


agree wit wat 2o2r said..since the hole it for the air to cool the temperature down and make the pad to makan more. for normal brake pad if it exceeds certain heat then rosak lah the pad....
i kena tis wit VTTR racing (cakap racing jer) rm 68 if not mistaken.aftre turun from genting and some hard braking during pg-kl trip the pad can't makan kuat if i tekan all also...check my brake system and it is all ok ...to solve it i change my pad to bandit one bout rm 100++ and the brake perform well


if really can't brake always remeber how flingston brake their car!! wit leg~~~~:stupid:
 

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