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Dude...Crawling scooby also nvm la....At least got 4 door ma...My car now very headache la...Want to go shopping also need to think parking ramp clearance....THREAD HIJACK! F**K super fei lo
Wah u want to get haltech meh??
I got question, either we install haltech or hondata...
when cold engine can be start??
i mean if i left my car for 2 or 3 days...
coz some of my fren using haltech + high comp too.. i can see the misery when to start the ignition..
y ar??? pls help me...
wey... SFL... i went to your workshop and your project still not moving yet???? don't chat to much la.... start your project now... everyone here is waiting....
Whatever management you use.. it's all as good as THE TUNER.
For extreme setup cars, esp. when you already ditch the IACV or any sort of idle control (FICD, etc)
you can use ignition and fuel compensation to compensate for cold start & idle, or if you're using those more expensive ones, even got a cold start/cranking map for those really cold days on No. 8 plugs. Even 9 and 10's plugs can be used if you can get a good cold crank map up.
That's why some people pay for 'imported' tuners. :)
Me, I'm too cheapskate for 'imported' tuners, so I learned to tune myself. :P
Futhermore, I tend to test stuff a lot, so if I pay an imported tuner each time I change a part.. adooi.
sfl, user friendly wise, I think the simpler is easier, but it is limited in functions.
As for VAFC, I don't mind it at all, but it's limited in the sense of how much correction it can put out without affecting ignition timing, sure, it can correct fuelling at low and part throttle, but its just really a MAP sensor manipulator, so it doesn't control ignition and fuelling directly. Really good for stock engine with light intake/exhaust mods, usually because when you modify honda exhaust system, the lower end will be rich, and the higher end will be lean, so the VAFC can correct that to a certain extent.
but other than that, I find them really lacking when using on non-stock engines because VAFC relies on the stock mapping of the ECU.
I haven't played with the MSD 6AL, so I don't know how flexible the ignition timing can be.
But B20B setups work really well only with standalones, because the stock ECU mapping just isnt good enough, even with minor corrections. With anything less like a piggyback, you can achieve good peak hp, but the mid range horsepower (the horsepower reading at 2-6K rpm will not be as good)
Injector control with standalones is also better. Even with 345cc H22A injectors, it's possible to make a B16/18C/B20B idle like a stock car. (not to mention faster to tune)
I'm not sure how your mechanic will manage with just VAFC because the honda ECU has ignition and fuelling comprensation/correction, and without running open loop, it's like tuning a fuel ratio that's never constant due to temperature changes. Tune today, get 14.7AFR, start up tommorow, it becomes 12.3 or some other number.
Most people don't know that for adjusting ignition timing, the 2 pin diagnostic/service connector needs to be shorted to disable compensation when adjusting ignition timing at idle. That's why when you get a timing light and test the timing for most cars, it won't be 16, or about 22 degs (with compensation)
but get the service connecter jumpered, time it at 16 degs, and no matter how many stock P30 B-series you do the same to, when jumpered, it will always read 16.
Now you know why some mechs adjust the ignition timing so many times, even though you only actually have to do it once... after swapping the belt, or removing the crank pulley for oil pump/etc service.
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