My B20B project just get started

Alamak...This fei lo want become internet celebrity is it? Setup like this want post here meh? Dude....Come this sat i drive my car out we go wendy's triple beef burger!!!!
 
cheaper alternative, use thicker gasket.

unless u wanna run racing fuel to giant supermarket :)

target compression.
hmmm...
dont have woh....
im running 12 now with my b18b....
knock like hell with pump petrol when afternoon driving...............
mayb stick with 12..
but all mechs do their compression test by compression tester only...
the assume the KGM is the CR..
i doubt about that..... :hmmmm:
any idea any 1..........
 
sfl, i did try the oversize valve 1mm b4... using jun 3... the engine rip after i rev it at 9k+ rpm... using b18c stroke and 81.25mm ctr piston. it give me 201atw hp only.

with ur setup, it suppose to make around 220-230atw hp. if everything is ok... :biggrin:
 
sfl, i did try the oversize valve 1mm b4... using jun 3... the engine rip after i rev it at 9k+ rpm... using b18c stroke and 81.25mm ctr piston. it give me 201atw hp only.

with ur setup, it suppose to make around 220-230atw hp. if everything is ok... :biggrin:

BURPPP~!!!!!!!
if everything is okie...~!!
haha...
my target is 201whp...
@ 8000rpm....
dont so tamak loo....
i think i must really check my piston valve pocket....
deep deep pocket...hope my pocket is....
anyway...
mayb more reliable valve spring....

btw hattech,
how ur engine blow??
ur piston & valve kisses each other...
haha...
or other reason...
pls advise me....
thanks u n most appreciate
 
cheaper alternative, use thicker gasket.

unless u wanna run racing fuel to giant supermarket :)

i retarded my timing...
hehe..
less knockin with 30% v power 70% petronas
.....................................

one question...
how did ur mechs do the CR test???
compression tester KGM???
pls advise
 
the aircon system has the most tubes come to think
of it. that is if u want to do wireless engine bay.

plan to change all my a/c paipin...
i have a indian fren which did quite well on my frens car...
not 100% tak jumpa la....
but atleast hide @ the bottom side...

world without ac is like living in hell...
 
Alamak...This fei lo want become internet celebrity is it? Setup like this want post here meh? Dude....Come this sat i drive my car out we go wendy's triple beef burger!!!!


tiu..
sell of ur car la....
and get a crawling subie........
:burnout: rolling here & there....

offer me ur exedy hyper single lo.... :thefinger:
 
thanks works engineering for the radiator hose..
support made in malaysia products....
good quality, value for money :love:
 

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the compression tester that always being used by mechanic is not the reading for CR.. its only to measure cylinder pressure or to check any leakdown. but at least the number can estimate what compression u running... to really calculate the cr... penat weih.... using diesel, buret or turet wth is that... checking cc volume here n there...

sfl, my engine rip most proly bcoz of valve kissing...
 
haha....
ur valves must loves ur piston so much.... :biggrin:

i will try to ask my mechs to triple check the valve piston clearance....
so must buka tutup buke tutup head for few times .... :hmmmm:
more labour needed... :bawling:
thanks for ur info...
 
which one below is better???
super 90 + 75mm TB

or ITB??

my newly done valve cover.
custome paint to perfection....
and my crank pulley from works engineering...
value for money,,..............
 

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how much have you spent so far?? may we know your budget for this project and your HP objective??

i can see money is not an issue here.. :sleep:
 
money is a big issue...
just plan the project step by step..
got budget then buy the stuffs..
hehe.....

on my last project i spend quite alot...
cant really remember...
BC 304 1700
Omni power VS + R 1250
itr piston + ring 700
CTR head 2000,cam + VS + R sell for rm1100
portin labor +++ 2+++
custome cam gear 2++
flywheel + clucth + lsd 2+++
intake + TB + fuel rail + injector + regulator 25++
plug cable + plug 4++
b18b block 1+++

my target hp...
dont relly have 1.....
just upgrade for more power...
 
u should try both and tell us the results if time and money
is not a problem to do some personal r&d. it wouldnt be fun
and selfish to generalise a certain setup based on personal
opinion.

run with a standalone on both setups and see hows the results.

which one below is better???
super 90 + 75mm TB

or ITB??
 
last time i oso got knocking only when to start the engine...
all the way cruising n flooring the pedal.. there's no knocking...
do check ur cam setting again...

like ex5 setting ma..

-=calatex5=-
 
u should try both and tell us the results if time and money
is not a problem to do some personal r&d. it wouldnt be fun
and selfish to generalise a certain setup based on personal
opinion.

run with a standalone on both setups and see hows the results.

i will try to request from my beloved mech.....
really depends on his MOOD....
i have a discussion with him just now...( ULAR )
he told me to stick to my Skunk 2 + 70mm, he is really lazy to help me to setting my car...
he need to do his HAKCI RUKKU...
all the stuff already @ his workshop.....
3 option only 1 choice,other 2 to let go....
buyers???
:biggrin:

standalone....
mahal la....
mayb budget for MSD.....
ef wiring really limited option....
 
dear steady mat rock...

20b = 89mm stroke
18c = 87mm stroke

reduce cc...

u can calculate ur displacement by :
(bore divide 2)(bore divide 2) X 3.142 x stroke X 4

hope this helps....
con rod stick the same..coz block height is the same..
Yup I know about the stroke size its 87.2mm for the 18C. The potential of the B20 to go 87mm max on the bore makes a 2lit 'square' engine with the B18c stroker. Is it possible?
 
Yup I know about the stroke size its 87.2mm for the 18C. The potential of the B20 to go 87mm max on the bore makes a 2lit 'square' engine with the B18c stroker. Is it possible?

"SQUARE".....
hmmm........
havent thought of it....
try this, trusty wikipedia..
very useful

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-stroke_engine

Rod/Stroke ratio
The rod/stroke ratio is the ratio of the length of the connecting rod to the length of the crankshaft's (or piston's) stroke. An increase in the rod/stroke ratio (a longer rod, a shorter stroke or both) results in a lower piston speed. A longer rod (and consequently, higher rod/stroke ratio,) can potentially create more power, due to the fact that with a longer connecting rod, more force from the piston is delivered tangentially to the crankshaft's rotation, delivering more torque. A shorter rod/stroke ratio creates higher piston speeds, but this can be beneficial depending on other engine characteristics. Increased piston speeds can create tumble or swirl within the cylinder and reduce detonation. Increased piston speeds can also draw fuel-air mixture into the cylinder more quickly through a larger intake runner, promoting good cylinder filling.

Rod length and stroke length are independent variables. Rod length is expressed as center-to-center (c/c) length. An engine with a particular stroke can be fitted with rods of several c/c lengths by changing the piston pin location or block deck height. A rod that is longer in relation to stroke causes the piston to dwell a longer time at top dead center and causes the piston to move toward and away from TDC more slowly. Long rod engines with a particular stroke also build suction above the piston with less force, since the piston moves away from TDC more slowly. Consequently, long rod engines tend to produce a lower port air velocity, which also reduces low speed torque. Long rods place less thrust load on the cylinder walls, thus generate less parasitic drag and result in less frictional losses as engine revolutions rise. A "short rod" engine has the opposite characteristics. “The short rod exerts more force to the crank pin at any crank angle that counts i.e.--20° ATDC to 70° ATDC” (Jere Stahl [1]). Short rod engines tend develop more torque at lower engine speeds with torque and horsepower falling off quickly as engine RPM rises to high levels. Long rod engines generally produce more power due to reduced engine drag, especially as engine RPM increases. Regardless of rod length for a given stroke, the average piston speed (usually expressed in ft/s or m/s) remains the same. What changes as the rod length becomes shorter or longer in relation to the stroke, is the RATE of motion as the piston rises and falls in relation to the crankshaft. A long rod fitted to a given stroke generates less stress on the component parts due to the lower rate of acceleration away from and toward TDC. The average piston speed is the same; however, the peak piston speed is lower with long rods.

There is no "Ideal" rod to stroke ratio, however a ratio of about 2 to 1 seems to be the upper practical limit and 1.5 to 1 the lower limit in general practice. The Chevrolet 350 engine with a 3.48" stroke and a 5.7-inch (140 mm) c/c rod has a rod/stroke ratio of 1.638 to 1. The durability and longevity of this engine seems to prove that this is a “acceptable” figure for a rod/stroke ratio number. The "small block 400" used a 3.75" stroke and a rod c/c of 5.565" for a ratio of 1.484. The SB 400 was known for torque and "running out of breath" at high engine speeds. Even with large port heads and high lift camshaft, the S/B 400 ran into a "wall" of friction when engine speeds climbed above 5000 rpm. S/B 400s we also know for wearing piston skirts and cylinder walls at a faster rate than their smaller brothers. Many people that race the S/B 400 convert the engine to 5.7 or 6.0 rods to reduce the effects of the long-stroke crankshaft and lower friction within the engine. The 1967–1969 Z-28 302 engine was fitted with a 3.0" stroke crank and in some racing applications used up to a 6.0" rod, resulting in a 2 to 1 rod/stroke. The 302 Chevrolet V-8 was famous for phenomenal power in the upper RPM range while it sacrificed low speed torque to gain the high RPM power and reliability.

Honda's B16A/B16B is considered ideal in high revolution and high durability applications and it is, not coincidentally, right in between the 1.5:1 and 2:1 ratios, with a 1.75:1 ratio. Although this gives it relative low power at lower engine speeds, it also gives it a rev-happy nature that is durable beyond its factory rev limit. Some sport bikes surpass the 1.75:1 ratio, but the lower torque at less engine speed becomes evident for practical applications such as cars(where power/weight ratio is important).

A "square engine" is an engine with a bore equal to its stroke. An engine where the bore dimension is larger than the stroke is commonly known as an oversquare engine; such engines have the ability to attain higher rotational speed since the pistons do not travel as far. Conversely, an engine with a bore that is smaller than its stroke is known as an undersquare engine; such engines cannot rotate as quickly, but are able to generate more torque at lower rotational speeds
 
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So valve to valve actually ripped your engine at 9k+ RPM hattech-v... what was the cam setting? So I can guess fei lo will be safe then if he checks his V2V clearance at max lift...

good info..
 

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