TaE|VoN said:
Yo, I fixed up my car already, and checked out the nose cut... no powersteering rack... no nothing in there. Just the rad, cond., popup lights & motor, amber signal lights, bumper... that's all i think.
Anyway here's my story...
Prior to fixing everything in, my radiator (and condensor) was phucked, damaged by the impact. So. I went home/mech's place in limp home mode, took out the radiator cap (was adviced this so that the pressure doesnt force the coolant out of the leaking rad , or something like that hehe) and keep pouring water in between stops, I can see the massive steam boiling out from my rear view mirror.
Suprisingly the temperature meter stays the same, as if it's running normally. Not sure if this means the temp. sensor is located somewhere unstrategic enough to sense the increasing temp. Since engine's power doesnt seems to drop so I just continue my journey for about 10-15km until I reached my destination.
After that I got my rad and cond. replaced with the units from the nose-cut. All seems to be fine until last Saturday when I travel down to Seremban with my brother. Was driving, pushing a little here and there, overtaking, 160km/h, nothing grand. Everything was smooth and sexy. Till to the time when we went back, was driving much harder than usual, and I was curious when does the rev cut comes in on this car so I poped 2nd gear after the first and revved away. Curiousity kills the cat, they always say. As soon as I've touched 6900rpm (SAFC shows 7400rpm) , the check engine light comes on.
God save me. I think I just choked it half dead. Car still drives normally, but only without engine load / boost. It'll hesitate badly at low RPM (1-3k rpm) if I load it. Boost will STILL build up (even up to the stock full boost of 0.7) when it's above 3krpm or so. Condition is as if like the one I had earlier... hesitation, where the AFM is kinda fooked until I've reset the ECU.
I remember I've previously reduced the FUEL PRESSURE to 25psi (just for experimental purposes). Don't really think it's the cause, as I've no problems prior to that stupid move of reaching 7400rpm. I've since set it back to 35psi (stock's 30psi for the 3SGTE IIRC). Also, the coolant refill after the rad was fixed in wasnt that much. Just a small bottle of 600ML worth of coolant in the considerably long piping system in the MR2. I've also toped up another 300ml of coolant. Engine oil seems to of a smooth brown colour. No signs of any coolant leaking into it. Tried checking all the nuts and bolts on all the hoses, vacuum hoses, intercooler, etc. and they seem secured.
Now, I'm not sure what all these means. I shorted E1 & T1 in the little Diagnostic box and extracted error code 52 , which translated to : Open or short in knock sensor signal (KNK). Sounds simple but it can mean so many things.
Okay basically here's a summary of what I've written just to simple things up:
- Engine light comes on after revving to rev-cut limit at 7400rpm.
- Engine light now comes on EVERYTIME after starting the car and having some load (hard to define what is load... but it's probably about 20% throttle @ 2krpm @ 3rd gear).
- Car hesitates badly upon load & refuses to go
- Boost still fills up when it's above peak boost (not sure if thats the correct term but, around above 3krpm).
- ECU fires up diagnostic code 52 : Open/Short Circuit in Knock Sensor Signal
- Resetting and getting rid of the ERROR CODE doesn't work
Suspects following problem since I have the error code 52 (knock/detonate):
- Not enough fuel (clogged fuel filter , fuel pump etc.)
- Leaking/blowned head gasket (but that's supposed to lower compression not increase, no?)
- Phucked ECU
- Radiator not working properly / Leaking / Coolant leaking into crankcase etc.
- Leaking air from various spots (manifold, hoses, vacuum hoses, pipes, etc. causing ECU to misread airflow)
- Spark plugs not firing properly ? (hmm...)
- Something wrong with grounding
- Something wrong with my eyes and butt (hmmmmm !!!)
Need to find a new mech already... current one is just incompetent in turbo applications.
