Mira L2 turbo problem...

[Kenet]

Hi guys.

So the story goes like this...haven't been boosting for a while...then one day took the car out full boosting...and noticed the boost spiked. dammit. went up to 0.7,spiked back to 0.5... so i figure...what the hell and installed a bleeder valve/fishbone...got it boosting at 0.8 then this time SLOWLY went down to 0.6...

...it is spiking right? just the difference is the first one is like up to 0.7 then IMMEDIATELY it goes down to 0.5...unlike the second one after insalling the bleeder valve that is...it goes up to 0.8 then SLOWLY going down to 0.6...

so what do you guys think? the turbine is ori... actuator kong? a loose hose maybe?
thanks in advance :regular_smile:

 

[Daihatsu Mira]

try to take out the ikan u install first....

 

[Daihatsu Mira]

if actuator kong the boost wont like this...
if it is kong usually it go full boost

 

[Daihatsu Mira]

any white smoke come out from the exhaust?

 

[Daihatsu Mira]

try to check any leakage from the intercooler...
and the blow off valve too....

 

[Kenet]

haven't tried removing the fishbone but i don't think it has anything to do with it because the boost is spiking even before installing the fishbone...the only difference is like what i posted earlier...

...actuator kong it'll go full boost? ...i remember ppl telling me boost spike=something wrong with the actuator...hmmm...

nope. no white smoke.

i'll check the intercooler BOV(ori closed type BOV). :regular_smile:

 

[xtremeleo]

i dont think u r getting any spike bro, increase in boost level within the safety limit is quite okie. OR, r u upset because ur boost decrease to lower value after achieving 0.8 bar? sumthing is leaking out precious boost then, check it out. i dont think the actuator is at fault, but it wud be good to check it out

 

[Speed Demon]

I agree with XtremeLeo. You are suffering from a boost leak somewhere. Check all your pipings & hoses.

 

[stroker_kit]

that scenario is normal if u use fish valves to control boost level...
if no fish valves are involves, then it is normal for a turbine to spike...cos the actuator are standard factory setup... its reaction wont be as good as those aftermarket actuautor/external wastgate...somemore, it has been a halfcut for ages oledi... sudah tua maaa....cannot expect tip top condition...

what i can suggest is instead of connecting the hose from actuator to the turbine mouth, try connecting the actuator to the boost signal taken from the Inlet manifold...that should make the actuator become more responsive and stable.. to have a better adjustment on boost level, try nto to use fish valves.. get urself a decent manual boost controller... it can also make ur turbine spool up faster... more obvious if u have upgraded to a bigger turbine..

 

[xtremeleo]

fish tank valves will give boost spike, if the valves r loose. not the other way around bro, 0.8~0.6bar slowly sounds like u have boost leak sumwhere, be it in the ic hose, or between the zorst manifold gasket. if u r hearing a whistling sound, den dis mite be ur problem.

0.8bar is achieved wit ur valves' help, and it helps to maintain ur boost level from dropping for a longer period. when those valves leak boost to atm, it drops the pressure to ur actuator which will prevent ur it from opening sooner. actuator dat opens later, will let boost to build higher, because its not letting those precious boost out earlier, so higher boost is achieved faster. just imagine if those valves r loose, maybe ur actuator may not sense any strong pressure from ur turbine inlet housing and let the boost builds up witout proper control, and here is where spike starts.

 

[SuPeRtEc88]

true story,

one of da kcar taikor here was kaboom during dyno, had been sudden boost spike over 2bar, tat engine genarated 13x horsie until heartattack after owner noticed......hehehe

 

[Kenet]

Yeah,guess i should check for any leaks first. THanks guys. :_:

what i can suggest is instead of connecting the hose from actuator to the turbine mouth, try connecting the actuator to the boost signal taken from the Inlet manifold...that should make the actuator become more responsive and stable..

...so it's okay if the hose from the inlet manifold is connected directly to the actuator instead of going to the turbine mouth first then the actuator? ...how about the hose from the turbine mouth to the actuator? can i just remove it?

 

[xtremeleo]

the inlet to the actuator shud only come from the compressor housing and not from anywhere else bro, so ur actuator feels the exact pressure dat is charged into ur manifold. taking the source from the manifold wudnt give u an accurate reading what the compressor is charging in since there will be pressure drop along the ic piping, and witin the ic itself.

in any case, DO NOT remove dat hose connecting ur compressor housing to the actuator or ur waste gate wont open to let the excessive boost to out, to control ur charged boost level.

 

[Kenet]

Okay,let me double check...

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/3310/kenae7.th.jpg

Hose A from the manifold cannot be directly connected to the actuator correct? like if i just remove Hose B and then directly connect Hose A to the actuator..?

 

[xtremeleo]

i cant see which hose goes to where in the pix, or my eyes have sum problem.. hmm.. but what i can tell u is this, the hose which connected the actuator to the compressor housing musnt be removed. dat hose supplies pressure to open the wastegate when boost needs to be release out via the wastegate

 

[Kenet]

HEheh. Well,ok then. Thanks a lot for the replies guys. :_:

 

[bongweeyap]

sifu sifu here i head that ppl use heavy duty valve to incerase the boost,it is recomended??

and what is the stock boost for L2s manual.
the reading is 0.9 bar,Greedy boost meter.somtimes 0.85bar.
last time use swoosh boost meter, it show 0.8.
so which one is the correct reading?????

anyway how to check boost leak???
which part is the crucial one????
cox i got the sam problem with my stock engine.
the boost gose up to 1 bar then drop to 0.9.

 

[Daihatsu Mira]

Okay,let me double check...

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/3310/kenae7.th.jpg

Hose A from the manifold cannot be directly connected to the actuator correct? like if i just remove Hose B and then directly connect Hose A to the actuator..?

the hose A is a thing which control ur boost more quick respond...
it's a factory setting...
usually we take it off.....
but if u take it off it will be 5psi...so u have to pasang tulang ikan there for higher boost...
u can use something to block the hose u mention to intake maniflod...
and use ikan between actuator and turbo...
then u can up more boost...
then u will facing a boost cut at 13 psi....
hehe..cheers...happy booosting

 

[Daihatsu Mira]

sifu sifu here i head that ppl use heavy duty valve to incerase the boost,it is recomended??

and what is the stock boost for L2s manual.
the reading is 0.9 bar,Greedy boost meter.somtimes 0.85bar.
last time use swoosh boost meter, it show 0.8.
so which one is the correct reading?????

anyway how to check boost leak???
which part is the crucial one????
cox i got the sam problem with my stock engine.
the boost gose up to 1 bar then drop to 0.9.

factory setting 10psi or 0.7 bar...

check intercooler hoses...actuator...blow off valve

 

[fawaz808]

nope...!! factory setting actually is 0.5-0.6.... if not.. sumthing wrong with ur actuator..