Insulation!!
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defcon1 said:If more people like me, the air-horn industry would grow...
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Hey Ong...
Know where I can buy bitumen paint? Not the spray on type, the brush on type...I think they use it for waterproofing bathrooms...the black stuff they paint on before they do your tiles...
Got this idea for the tyre well...and maybe some parts of the undercarriage...
Know where I can buy bitumen paint? Not the spray on type, the brush on type...I think they use it for waterproofing bathrooms...the black stuff they paint on before they do your tiles...
Got this idea for the tyre well...and maybe some parts of the undercarriage...
hardware shop lor..defcon1 said:Hey Ong...
Know where I can buy bitumen paint? Not the spray on type, the brush on type...I think they use it for waterproofing bathrooms...the black stuff they paint on before they do your tiles...
Got this idea for the tyre well...and maybe some parts of the undercarriage...
- Joined
- May 26, 2006
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- 775
- Points
- 1,518
Wa Lau!!! Where Is Everybody?
I have internet problems for a while, and everyone ponteng already.... :sad_smile:
Anyway, the promised update to my insulation project...
Last week, I got bored again, and decided to cover the last bits behind the rear passenger seats. So, I took off the rear seat to get at the metal underneath.
a) The horizontal part of the back seat area is already covered by a thick layer of bitumen that came stock with the car. After conducting the "rap" test, which involves rapping knuckles hard against the surface to be tested and listening for how much it resonates, I concluded that my cheap bitumen flash strips would not improve it's properties any further.
b) The wheel wells, however, were another matter completely. On each side/corner, the wheel well "intrudes" into the passenger compartment. Considering that I had been hearing a lot of wheel sounds, I double layered both of them.
c) Between the back seats and the boot is a metal bulkhead. This bulkhead consists of a "frame" which goes round the "hole", basically from the two sides against the chasis, the speaker panel on top and the floorboard below. On top of this squarish frame, Nissan has a large sheet of steel bolted on to block off the hole. I can only guess that in some versions of the ceffy, there might be seats that can be "dropped" to increase the carrying capacity of the boot...like most compact cars today. Since ours does not come with this feature, they chose to block off the hold by bolting on a thick metal plate to cover the hole. This is a BIG mistake.
Originally I did not layer this part, as I guessed that with the huge pieces of foam (the seats) against it, it was unlikely to cause too much problems. But as I was bored...I decided to do it anyway. So, one layer of bitumen strips, 100% coverage. I did not even bother to cut out the holes for the nuts, and just layered over the metal plate completely. On top of this, one layer of 9mm Insuflex. It is better to glue the Insuflex to the seat than the metal bulkhead. This will make re-installation easier.
No insuflex was applied under the seat as the tolerances would not allow for anything thicker than 3mm to be applied.
The results...
MY SOUND SYSTEM SOUNDS AWESOME!!! For the first time, the bass from my Blaupunck Velocities sounds...er...bassy and clear! I can now virtually run without a sub-woofer...though a sub still makes for slightly better sound. The only drawback...my little Blaupunck active sub in the boot is no longer powerful enough to punch through into the passenger cabin. Looks like my wife is going to inherit a very nice sub-woofer for her soon to be soundproofed Myvi. Me, on the other hand, have started working on the plans for a home designed and built active sub-woofer...
Another bonus...the tyre sounds have been reduced by at least 70%...
I have internet problems for a while, and everyone ponteng already.... :sad_smile:
Anyway, the promised update to my insulation project...
Last week, I got bored again, and decided to cover the last bits behind the rear passenger seats. So, I took off the rear seat to get at the metal underneath.
a) The horizontal part of the back seat area is already covered by a thick layer of bitumen that came stock with the car. After conducting the "rap" test, which involves rapping knuckles hard against the surface to be tested and listening for how much it resonates, I concluded that my cheap bitumen flash strips would not improve it's properties any further.
b) The wheel wells, however, were another matter completely. On each side/corner, the wheel well "intrudes" into the passenger compartment. Considering that I had been hearing a lot of wheel sounds, I double layered both of them.
c) Between the back seats and the boot is a metal bulkhead. This bulkhead consists of a "frame" which goes round the "hole", basically from the two sides against the chasis, the speaker panel on top and the floorboard below. On top of this squarish frame, Nissan has a large sheet of steel bolted on to block off the hole. I can only guess that in some versions of the ceffy, there might be seats that can be "dropped" to increase the carrying capacity of the boot...like most compact cars today. Since ours does not come with this feature, they chose to block off the hold by bolting on a thick metal plate to cover the hole. This is a BIG mistake.
Originally I did not layer this part, as I guessed that with the huge pieces of foam (the seats) against it, it was unlikely to cause too much problems. But as I was bored...I decided to do it anyway. So, one layer of bitumen strips, 100% coverage. I did not even bother to cut out the holes for the nuts, and just layered over the metal plate completely. On top of this, one layer of 9mm Insuflex. It is better to glue the Insuflex to the seat than the metal bulkhead. This will make re-installation easier.
No insuflex was applied under the seat as the tolerances would not allow for anything thicker than 3mm to be applied.
The results...
MY SOUND SYSTEM SOUNDS AWESOME!!! For the first time, the bass from my Blaupunck Velocities sounds...er...bassy and clear! I can now virtually run without a sub-woofer...though a sub still makes for slightly better sound. The only drawback...my little Blaupunck active sub in the boot is no longer powerful enough to punch through into the passenger cabin. Looks like my wife is going to inherit a very nice sub-woofer for her soon to be soundproofed Myvi. Me, on the other hand, have started working on the plans for a home designed and built active sub-woofer...
Another bonus...the tyre sounds have been reduced by at least 70%...
70% sound reduction?!! sure or not...
tryin to have tea with u also susah...somemore wanna sit in ur car...defcon1 said:Sit in my car and find out...
remember that day when we r suppose to have one of the best nasi kandar but then u couldnt make it...something to do with ur bosses???
pharmacy la...defcon1 said:Ah yes...the bosses...grrrrrrr..... :sad_smile:
Anybody know where to get those "Mission Impossible" drugs where one drop in a drink can make people go to the toilet for hours?...
hi all..
im using wira se. what if i get the same type or floor carper in wira boot (furry on bottom side) and put in/double layer all the carpet inside the cabin plus the rear pasenger seat too.
any opinion before i proceed?
im using wira se. what if i get the same type or floor carper in wira boot (furry on bottom side) and put in/double layer all the carpet inside the cabin plus the rear pasenger seat too.
any opinion before i proceed?
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It should help a bit, but not much. I used to drive a Wira Aeroback and the only thing that would work is to layer with some thick insulation material.
a) You definitely need bitumen of some kind to dampen the metal in the boot. Go to some old hardware shop and buy "flashing strips". Make sure good quality "Made in UK or Germany" stuff. Based on SAE standards, this material should only soften at about 80 degrees. Line the entire floor or any area with large metal surface. Especially pay attention to the front floorboards and the tyre wells.
b) Go to air cond (building air-cond, not car air cond) spare parts shop and buy either Insuflex sheets or Insulon. The type I used is the non-adhesive type cos it costs about half the self-adhesive type. Use good rubber glue to fix onto metal. You only need to apply more on the non-horizontal surfaces. For the horizontal surfaces, a little on the corners and in the middle to hold it in place is enough.
The bitumen doesn't really absorb sound. It absorbs the vibration energy and converts it to low frequency noise. The insuflex/insulon is designed to absorb lower frequency noise, but is transparent to higher frequencies. That's why a double layer (bitumen-insuflex) is neccesary.
a) You definitely need bitumen of some kind to dampen the metal in the boot. Go to some old hardware shop and buy "flashing strips". Make sure good quality "Made in UK or Germany" stuff. Based on SAE standards, this material should only soften at about 80 degrees. Line the entire floor or any area with large metal surface. Especially pay attention to the front floorboards and the tyre wells.
b) Go to air cond (building air-cond, not car air cond) spare parts shop and buy either Insuflex sheets or Insulon. The type I used is the non-adhesive type cos it costs about half the self-adhesive type. Use good rubber glue to fix onto metal. You only need to apply more on the non-horizontal surfaces. For the horizontal surfaces, a little on the corners and in the middle to hold it in place is enough.
The bitumen doesn't really absorb sound. It absorbs the vibration energy and converts it to low frequency noise. The insuflex/insulon is designed to absorb lower frequency noise, but is transparent to higher frequencies. That's why a double layer (bitumen-insuflex) is neccesary.
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Update on soundproofing project!
My car sprung a leak recently...somewhere at the A-pillar above the AC blower. Damn difficult area to reach. My mech, Lee had to remove the blower, and seal from inside with heavy-duty silicone. The point was unreacheable from the outside, even with the mudguard taken off. Naturally, since the mudguard WAS OFF, I saw the opportunity to try to reduce the front wheel and absorber noises...
So, I had him take off both mudguards (easy), and applied bitumen flashing strips to the chasis metal under the mudguards (but not the wheelwell as this part was very dirty and I was lazy to clean it properly. My objective was to cut down the shock whenever the car went over a bump or went into a pothole.
Results : Shock significantly reduced. Noise effectively dampened, but not insulated, since I didn't put any Insuflex into the mudguards (next weekend's project). The car now feels...very tight, like a sportscar, and it's nice to drive without the extra vibrations imparted by my Hotbits adjustable shocks. I used to run on 29psi up front just to reduce the shock and noise a little, but have since pushed it up to 30 psi, and it stills feels and sounds good...
My car sprung a leak recently...somewhere at the A-pillar above the AC blower. Damn difficult area to reach. My mech, Lee had to remove the blower, and seal from inside with heavy-duty silicone. The point was unreacheable from the outside, even with the mudguard taken off. Naturally, since the mudguard WAS OFF, I saw the opportunity to try to reduce the front wheel and absorber noises...
So, I had him take off both mudguards (easy), and applied bitumen flashing strips to the chasis metal under the mudguards (but not the wheelwell as this part was very dirty and I was lazy to clean it properly. My objective was to cut down the shock whenever the car went over a bump or went into a pothole.
Results : Shock significantly reduced. Noise effectively dampened, but not insulated, since I didn't put any Insuflex into the mudguards (next weekend's project). The car now feels...very tight, like a sportscar, and it's nice to drive without the extra vibrations imparted by my Hotbits adjustable shocks. I used to run on 29psi up front just to reduce the shock and noise a little, but have since pushed it up to 30 psi, and it stills feels and sounds good...
why ur car always leak ahh? :pdefcon1 said:Update on soundproofing project!
My car sprung a leak recently...somewhere at the A-pillar above the AC blower. Damn difficult area to reach. My mech, Lee had to remove the blower, and seal from inside with heavy-duty silicone. The point was unreacheable from the outside, even with the mudguard taken off. Naturally, since the mudguard WAS OFF, I saw the opportunity to try to reduce the front wheel and absorber noises...
So, I had him take off both mudguards (easy), and applied bitumen flashing strips to the chasis metal under the mudguards (but not the wheelwell as this part was very dirty and I was lazy to clean it properly. My objective was to cut down the shock whenever the car went over a bump or went into a pothole.
Results : Shock significantly reduced. Noise effectively dampened, but not insulated, since I didn't put any Insuflex into the mudguards (next weekend's project). The car now feels...very tight, like a sportscar, and it's nice to drive without the extra vibrations imparted by my Hotbits adjustable shocks. I used to run on 29psi up front just to reduce the shock and noise a little, but have since pushed it up to 30 psi, and it stills feels and sounds good...
defcon1 said:Old oledi mah...very soon need adult pampers...
Ooooh...you were talking about my car? I thought.....
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