help me about upgrade engine!

[avantasia]

yo yo yo...35k ++ minimum conversion

 

[crower75]

Please laa...dun remind us of the total cost spent so far on our rides......*&^%$#@ !!!!

 

[avantasia]

not only myself la...including u also...lori 50k...hattech 50k..gunn 30k etc etc

 

[crower75]

Arrrrrrgghhhhhhhh !!!!!!!!! ........

 

[Chr1s_stylez]

Best answer

Dont listen to these fools they cant even spell type R. if you want your civic to hammer get a 2litre VTEC Turbo engine. one of my mates spent $2k on the engine and another $2k on the turbo/manifold/front-mount/boost controller and that thing flies. i've got a 180sx with 240kw and it keeps up with me. plus you'll never get tired of hearing the noise the VTEC engine + the turbo make you'll have a car that'll turn heads and sounds tough.

 

[crower75]

Well, if you're a bit more courteous in your reply rather than labelling as as "fools", i would have taken your comments seriously.....

 

[avantasia]

we r talking about market price here lollllllllllllll....

 

[avantasia]

Dont listen to these fools they cant even spell type R. if you want your civic to hammer get a 2litre VTEC Turbo engine. one of my mates spent $2k on the engine and another $2k on the turbo/manifold/front-mount/boost controller and that thing flies. i've got a 180sx with 240kw and it keeps up with me. plus you'll never get tired of hearing the noise the VTEC engine + the turbo make you'll have a car that'll turn heads and sounds tough.

hello mr fool,

don't talk nonsense here!!!! :regular_smile:

 

[patpaty]

"$2k on the vtec turbo engine and another $2k on the turbo/manifold/front-mount/boost =4k aus.."

rm how much?? think about it..others?? int n ext stuff??

 

[avantasia]

kasi turun kl 1 kontena...i want it!!

 

[- J f D -]

Dont listen to these fools they cant even spell type R. if you want your civic to hammer get a 2litre VTEC Turbo engine. one of my mates spent $2k on the engine and another $2k on the turbo/manifold/front-mount/boost controller and that thing flies. i've got a 180sx with 240kw and it keeps up with me. plus you'll never get tired of hearing the noise the VTEC engine + the turbo make you'll have a car that'll turn heads and sounds tough.

These "fools" probably know much more than u lol ...watch it noob :regular_smile:

 

[avantasia]

but he dunno market price here dohhhhhhhh

 

[shiroitenshi]

Dont listen to these fools they cant even spell type R. if you want your civic to hammer get a 2litre VTEC Turbo engine. one of my mates spent $2k on the engine and another $2k on the turbo/manifold/front-mount/boost controller and that thing flies. i've got a 180sx with 240kw and it keeps up with me. plus you'll never get tired of hearing the noise the VTEC engine + the turbo make you'll have a car that'll turn heads and sounds tough.

Haha.. it's the 'in malaysia' joke, about the type R thing, due to various owners of other makes plastering type R stickers everywhere. Everything from proton sedans and hatches, fords, etc. etc. even bicycles don't escape the wrath of type R sticker lovers everywhere in Malaysia.. hahaha.

Unfortunately, turboing a unit here isn't a common setup, and finding setups that boast extreme reliabily isn't common as well. I believe due to the more extreme temps here on hot days, 48-50+ degrees celcius, even tuned setups can't make that high a horsepower, and if it does, it usually doesn't last for long.

Anyway, an NA 260whp B20B here has beaten a 280whp SR20DET 180sx before, thanks to power to weight, and and if you're saying a turbo B20B can keep up with yours.. well.. I don't find it strange at all. In fact it's well known that boosted hondas are reaching the realm of RWD 400m times.

 

[shiroitenshi]

i think my engine is single cam..
:shocked: :shocked: i need to learn.. huhu

Yup, a single cam VTEC it is, which is not a very shabby engine, if you're not power hungry.
I think your engine makes about 130hp on engine, so probably gets about 100 or so at the wheel. Or was it 150 at engine, and 130 to the wheels, I forget..

And don't worry about learning.. we all have to start somewhere, just remember that what's true today may not be true tommorow.. and always filter the information you get. I'm not 100% knowledgeable either, so sometimes I do get stuff wrong, and it's worth it on your part to get second, third, fourth, fifth, xxxx numbers of opinions from other people.. Just don't listen to kopitiam talk where "this part sure power!" then when you ask "why?" and "who's using?" they say.. well, they heard "so and so person is using it, which happens to be NOT in the group you're in.. :P" Best info is always the one you can SEE, and confirm with various methods.

As for mods for your current engine...

Sure, you can mod by putting in a open air pod, extractors and such, but what's next? These parts you put in will not be able to be reused once you swap to another engine, like the DOHC VTEC engines.

If you're sticking to a D series, a turbo kit (used) costs about 6-7K, without installation. after installation, you'll start finding bottlenecks and such. Turbo manifolds, intakes, uprated intercoolers, etc. etc. Good luck finding the parts too, since they're not really a popular setup. Soon enough, you might find yourself pillaging other makes like the mitsubishi parts and such.. Some people might like 'rojak' (means uses parts from other makes other than hondas) engines, but it's their choice and yours.. if you feel that it's worth it, by all means go ahead.

And when you want to go DOHC, those filterkits and extractors cannot be reused, and good luck finding a buyer who will buy them off you at a reasonable price. Most single cam vtec users are 'budget' users, hence will only buy stuff if it's ridiculously cheap (with a few exceptions)

The reason why I'm saying a conversion is better is that you can do it in stages.

1) B16A/B conversion (or the B18C5, otherwise known as the Integra type R engine)

2) upgrade bits like manifold, intake and exhaust (keep in mind that if you're planning to go further than your current engine, buy more in terms of specifications than what you need, it'll save you in the long run) The tuning will sort out minor niggles that hinders horsepower output.

3) Feel the need for more power? Then plonk in a B20B, with a setup that's tailored to your budger, from RM2000+ B20B setup, down to a setup that costs well over 10K-20K. The best thing about B20B is the low end torque. No need downshift to overtake.. just floor it (throttle % depends on how crazy you are) and go.

Enjoy your car that has 200+hp on tap, depending on how you mod it. For a (relatively) lightweight car like the civic.. 200+ is plenty.. Anymore, and you'd have to invest in some good tires (semi slick tires) and life insurance, if you're driving it on the road.. hahaha. :P

 

[gixy]

shiroitenshi

thx 4 ur advice.. hoho..

anyway.. i try save my money for convrt.. haha

but dont know until when.. coz im studnt! nvm.. take bank card from my dad.. :_: :_:

 

[- J f D -]

Work and save up! Maybe within 1 year++ can get these engines hehe.

Eh bro Shiroi, B20B for 2k+ only? Now im confused lol, in another thread bro Avantasia stated a "basic" setup for B20B totalled to 13k+...

Did u mean with the block only? How much hp would that make mated to a b16a?

 

[weldtor]

shiroitenshi

thanks 4 ur advice

 

[shiroitenshi]

Work and save up! Maybe within 1 year++ can get these engines hehe.

Eh bro Shiroi, B20B for 2k+ only? Now im confused lol, in another thread bro Avantasia stated a "basic" setup for B20B totalled to 13k+...

Did u mean with the block only? How much hp would that make mated to a b16a?

That's just to have the B20B block with VTEC line.. no other stuff put in..(depends on how much you can get the block for.. I think the going rate is about RM800 a block, +VTEC line, near 2K.. so unless you install yourself, then your budget is still not enough.. :P.. Oh.. the 2K isn't including engine management.. so maybe I put too low a quote there.

You won't make much hp numbers, but you'd have more torque at lower end than a b16a..a sort of budget upgrade, in a way. It's really a cheap 'low end' setup, a 'very very basic' B20B setup. low compression pistons of the B20B is the weak link of the basic set. Cam wise.. one has to wonder if you need such high duration when you're rev limited to 8K. Standard B16A cams is quite enough already, if you're not revving past that 8K mark..

It's one thing to plonk in a B20B block, it's another matter building it to make more power than a B18C. That's why the big gap in pricing.

If you're on a budget, CF4 pistons, standard B16A cams and intake can net you some good hp numbers, probably near to what a stock R makes.. at a fraction of the price.. consider the price of a complete R engine, and you'd see where I'm hinting at. Of course, you need H22A injectors as well, so add about rm450 to that.
But overall, the other stuff like intakes and headers can come later, since you'd still be able to run the engine with stock B16A mods like headers and such. It's a bottleneck, but one that can be adjusted with tuning.

Another thing about comparing B20B and B18C is, you're comparing PEAK hp numbers, which you only see at 6-8K rpm when you're comparing B18C and B20B.. get dyno charts of both engines, and see how the power is distributed across the rev range.. that's what power is.. not just peak hp. I've seen a B20B chart on a mid range B20B setup before.. needless to say.. it makes torque at 3-4K like mine makes at 6K after vtec.. but with no drastic increase after VTEC like the B16A/B.... still that can be 'kawtim-ed' with further mods. :P

 

[acuralover]

wat are the best pistons for a b20 setup? wiseco 84mm?...not too hardcore but quality yet not too pricey....care to advice...bro shiro?

 

[shiroitenshi]

wat are the best pistons for a b20 setup? wiseco 84mm?...not too hardcore but quality yet not too pricey....care to advice...bro shiro?

I wish it was that easy. Not too knowledgable on that specifically, but pistons with domes = more compression ratio (if you don't adjust anything else).. and as for the target compression ratio, depends on what kind of engine you're building. Too high a compression causes knocking with regular fuels and kills engines.

Seems like the common formula is high compression + high duration cams = high rpm power (if your block can withstand post 9K rpm stresses.)

As for forged pistons.. I think for the ultimate in reliability and strength.. those are the items to use. But I'm not a fan of forged pistons. I'm more of a cast pistons person, since they can run tighter clearances, which is a plus for a daily driven car, which don't see a lot of warm up prior to driving.. usually just start and go.

Remember that some 'race-spec' items are simply that.. they are for racing purposes, and you'd be dealing with some form of negatives when using those kind of parts.. sure, you'd make better horsepower, but you'd be looking at higher maintainance as well.

If you're an extremist, then go for it.. sky's the limit. Though for a B20B setup.. the bigger pistons you can use, the better.. but cost $$$$.. like for example, for the price of the Wiseco pistons, you can opt for 85/86mm ones instead, and get some power out of it, since you'd be REBORING the block anyway. Beware of too high a compression though, esp if you're using standard cams.. it might not happen to you, or it just MIGHT. Do note that some people say 86mm is reliable, and some say not. I believe the former, if you don't run crazy high compressions on it...