Heap Light On, RPM Drops !!

maybe you should tell us what is ur rpm at:
i)idling
ii)idling+ aircon
iii)idling+aircon>light
iv)idling+light
v)idling+light>aircon

may the TB raising the rpm when the rpm drop
 
minikar said:
maybe you should tell us what is ur rpm at:
i)idling
ii)idling+ aircon
iii)idling+aircon>light
iv)idling+light
v)idling+light>aircon

may the TB raising the rpm when the rpm drop

good point, but now not much problem liao, shld have record it b4 i send it for repair & tuning...

i'll record current one & let u know later, current one still got a "little" bit drop after lights on....nothing serious though...

Did ur head light affects ur RPM? even a little bit also dont have?
 
as long as the rpm drop don't stall the engine or "need not ram the engine to start first gear", IMHO ur engine is okay
 
imho,maybe problem lies with the fact that u change the alternator to higher amp.higher amp means more power(rpm) to produce 90a compare to 80a.
 
minikar said:
as long as the rpm drop don't stall the engine or "need not ram the engine to start first gear", IMHO ur engine is okay

So, does ur RPM drops a little bit, after switch on head light? Not even a little bit?
 
BEan said:
imho,maybe problem lies with the fact that u change the alternator to higher amp.higher amp means more power(rpm) to produce 90a compare to 80a.

IF : need more "power" (ie more pulling power needed to pull that pulley) for a 90V alternator, then overall performance shld drop, right? but not my case wor......only when lighting on can affects d RPM & hence "power".....not when its not on.
 
siangmh said:
So, does ur RPM drops a little bit, after switch on head light? Not even a little bit?

We all are working on assumption here since you didn't tell us the real rpm, as i requested. What you meant by drop 100rpm?

I am saying in general as long the slight drop dont die off ur engine and stall during first gear is OK.

if the drop is significant, something wrong wif the engine, it can be the sensor/ valve didnt compensate the load or real mechanical prob in ur engine
 
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RPM Reading

minikar said:
We all are working on assumption here since you didn't tell us the real rpm, as i requested. What you meant by drop 100rpm?

I am saying in general as long the slight drop dont die off ur engine and stall during first gear is OK.

if the drop is significant, something wrong wif the engine, it can be the sensor/ valve didnt compensate the load or real mechanical prob in ur engine


Although not precise readings, but i try my best lar.

Before get it fixed:(on warmed up engine)
Idling : 850 (stable)
Idling, then turn-on a/cond : 800 (stable)
Idling, then turn-on head light : 650 (engine vibrate)
Idling with head light + a/cond : 700 (engine still vibrate)
Idling, then turn-on small light : 830 (stable, but can feel thru engine sound & see the rpm needle actually "drop" a very little bit)

After got it fixed:(on warmed up engine)(changed back 80V alternator & do tuning)
Idling : 850 (stable)
Idling, then turn-on a/cond : 830 (stable, can feel & see RPM drop very little bit)
Idling, then turn-on head light : 800 (with d above, but engine still stable)
Idling with head light + a/cond : 800 (about same as above, still not vibrate)
Idling,then turn-on small light : 850 (stable, but can feel thru engine sound & see the rpm needle actually "drop" a very little bit)

So, does ur head light drops ur RPM? not even a little bit?
 
Some car rpm drop abit and some don't. If the rpm drop till engine vibrate I think we have a problem there:

1. There is an auxilary vavle that restrict or lessen the air to engine in TB to compensate the load, so the engine will raise the rpm. Some car also cut off aircon if sensor detect the rpm too low, you can hear the relay 'click'
2. Since you checkout the alternator. Is the air-con compressor okay?
3. Feeling any sign of your engine 'no power'? I.e: go on hill, full car load of people? If yes you really have engine prob.


Why don't you just bring your car to a real BIG proton service center, see what the diagnostic machine tell whether you have a problem instead of wild ghost chase.

I really meant the one with machine, don't go for the just rely on ears, eyes and instint.
 
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minikar said:
1. There is an auxilary vavle that restrict or lessen the air to engine in TB to compensate the load, so the engine will raise the rpm.

Just found out mine is "locked" & i cant turn it with a screw, it use to be very loose & easy to adjust one. I guess in my last visit, my mech "locked" the screw while cleaning TB. Will check it out.

2. Since you checkout the alternator. Is the air-con compressor okay?

Previously a/cond compressor not okay, near to kong condition, already making noise & pulley cant turn smoothly. Just change it 2 days ago. Now feel smoother.
However, the head light still distort d RPM (but not critical)

3. Feeling any sign of your engine 'no power'? I.e: go on hill, full car load of people? If yes you really have engine prob.

power wise, in fact, just slightly better off with d new compressor. No big deal nor any major problem with power though. Wira 1.5A is use to be "powerless" type, ha ha ha

Why don't you just bring your car to a real BIG proton service center, see what the diagnostic machine tell whether you have a problem instead of wild ghost chase.

Well, until i got feedback on which big proton SC & mech is good, else proton SC which operates by no skill-below par-no experience mech, might as well dont go...

So, old question: does ur head light distort ur car's RPM? what car is urs?
 
my 1.3 satria go down a second and jump back when head light on (not as obvious as air con), and about 100-200 below no load. My mira l2 go down abit.
 
Wira 1.6 XLi and When I turn on the headlight , the RPM does drop slightly . i'm under the impression that a slight drop is ' normal '
 
Geee guys, betul ke?.....

I didn't have this problem until recent.........

tangan too gatal...go & change this change that, end up more problem now.....hai ya.....

dont u guys suspect something not right? new car also dont have wor? right?.....
 
Agian, that is the whole point of all the points >>>>
minikar said:
as long as the rpm drop don't stall the engine or "need not ram the engine to start first gear", IMHO ur engine is okay





At the start of the thread you mentioned significant drop
Btw, there is one thing you have not changed....ECU
 
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Although now (after some fixing) manage to get RPM back to "near" normal, but still originally it wasn't like this.

So it seems to me something is still not right but unable to detect what it is. Just covered up by some other fixing works that just "patched it up"

So "the truth (faulty parts) is still out there"?? ha ha ha ha

My next trial will be lighting wiring, start with fog light 1st......
 
yes, remove the fog light + those accessories thingy. Btw, do you wire the signal light to light up both sides along with headlight? remove... strip naked
 
haha, ur sure good in guessing, buy 4d like that sure kena one, not 1st prize also can get 2nd prize, jk ha ha ha :>

i only wired d bumper lamp (lampu longkang) tap to the small light wire to make it light on together, signal wise no mod, fog light also use back ori wire + switch & add-on a relay (few yrs back) for it only........
 
i had a similiar problem with the air-cond compressor b4, turns out that the sensor located with the TB was faulty, it was unable to read a/c compressor "on" and hence didn't compensate for the increase in engine "load".
if your headlights are working fine (there's light & no blown bulbs), then it shouldn't be a wiring problem & neither would it be an alternator problem.
i know that the new generation proton's uses Bosh TB sensors and they are known to be of unsuitable spec for local condition.
solution : try and find a 2nd hand TB sensor (Japan) and replace.
in either case, it is quite the norm for engine load to increase with headlights/aircond/braking BUT it is the function of the TB sensor to tell ecu of the extra load so that engine rpm will increase to compensate
 
Wow...betul ke bro...tq tq for that, me impress ur knowledge ler :>

how come head light gives load to engine ar? can explain a bit ar? me new bee ler....

i thought head light only consume electricity fr batt / alternator?

if need more current than alternator can produce, then just draw from batt only right?

if produce more than used then just charge back batt only right?

if produce + draw fr batt also not enough, then batts dried up lar, right?

so how head light mechanically / electronically affects engine RPM? if altornator & batt is working.....

by the way , how much for TB sensor ?
 
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