Adjustable suspension ar? I never try it before wor, b'cause very expensive one. My friend's wira evo use adjustable suspension, even set it to soft level but still feel very stiff....-_-
fresh stock tune up
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hi bro cartoon..wanna ask for some advice,word of wisdom from you,hehehe...i use kenari aerosport the 1st that come out..i've change the exhust system to a self made exhust system(which i planned out the system after seeing Rides) which have two bullet system and a modified exhust muffler.I dont do any changes to the engine yet and planning to put turbo system in it(later on when ada duit ar..). In the engine boot..I use super air charger, pivot volt stabilizer,slip in K&N air filter and use the 3 head spark plug..i've change also the suspension system to the hotbit adjustable suspension system and change my brake disc and pad to turbo type (not yet change the brake clipping). what do u think what have i done? is it ok?need any other mod that i need? coz i want to max up the potential of the car performance (n/a type) and later on to turbo system..what do u think?
p/s: sorrry for the long2 writing..hehehe
p/s: sorrry for the long2 writing..hehehe
Hi bro DaRkN3Zs, here is my idea and recommend:
First, which type gear box you are using? AT or MT?
If only modifying the exhaust pipe and the muffler is hard to bring the true power of N/A engine, even you are using two bullet, but all cyclinder still using the same extractor, so the power are not increase much, but a little bit lah ^_^.
About the "super air charger", I think you can put it away, this thing allow more air by pass the throtle valve and direct go inside the engine, but this will make the engine ECU (engine control unit) confuse.
The ECU detact there is more heat inside the engine, due to more air by pass the throtle valve direct go inside the engine, create more power and more heat, so the ECU first action is reduce the amount of fuel supply in order to reduce the heat, that is why people say this is the fuel saving system, in other word, this will damage the engine in the long period.
About the spark plug, first important thing is make sure the lenght is same as the original spark plug, if not, change it back immediately, diffrend spark plug model have diffrend lenght.
One of my customer is a live sample, the spark plug he use is longer then the original one, we told him change it back to the original one, but he won't listen to us, and say "this is "XXX" brand racing spark plug you know, what you know about racing huh? @#$%^&* DO RE MI FA SO...." 3 month later, complain high fuel consumption, engine no power, oxygen sensor malfunction....after using back the original spark plug, problem soft. Why? the position of spark plug are diffrend now, so the fuel can't effectively be ignited, and causing problem above.
About the brake system, it is ok for now you have done, but if you are planing changing the brake caliper, please make sure two diffrend model are using the same brake master pump, if not, please change the brake caliper togher with the brake master pump (diffrend brake system, diffrend brake presure), and please service the brake caliper before installing to your car.
Last, about the suspension, the setting is base on you loh ^_^ you feel the setting is ok, then is ok ^_^. Hard to give you suggestion here, b'cause diffrend people have diffrend driving style ^_^.
First, which type gear box you are using? AT or MT?
If only modifying the exhaust pipe and the muffler is hard to bring the true power of N/A engine, even you are using two bullet, but all cyclinder still using the same extractor, so the power are not increase much, but a little bit lah ^_^.
About the "super air charger", I think you can put it away, this thing allow more air by pass the throtle valve and direct go inside the engine, but this will make the engine ECU (engine control unit) confuse.
The ECU detact there is more heat inside the engine, due to more air by pass the throtle valve direct go inside the engine, create more power and more heat, so the ECU first action is reduce the amount of fuel supply in order to reduce the heat, that is why people say this is the fuel saving system, in other word, this will damage the engine in the long period.
About the spark plug, first important thing is make sure the lenght is same as the original spark plug, if not, change it back immediately, diffrend spark plug model have diffrend lenght.
One of my customer is a live sample, the spark plug he use is longer then the original one, we told him change it back to the original one, but he won't listen to us, and say "this is "XXX" brand racing spark plug you know, what you know about racing huh? @#$%^&* DO RE MI FA SO...." 3 month later, complain high fuel consumption, engine no power, oxygen sensor malfunction....after using back the original spark plug, problem soft. Why? the position of spark plug are diffrend now, so the fuel can't effectively be ignited, and causing problem above.
About the brake system, it is ok for now you have done, but if you are planing changing the brake caliper, please make sure two diffrend model are using the same brake master pump, if not, please change the brake caliper togher with the brake master pump (diffrend brake system, diffrend brake presure), and please service the brake caliper before installing to your car.
Last, about the suspension, the setting is base on you loh ^_^ you feel the setting is ok, then is ok ^_^. Hard to give you suggestion here, b'cause diffrend people have diffrend driving style ^_^.
To maximum the power of N/A engine; high cam shaft, sport valve spring, port polish, adjustable cam pulley, lightened pulley set, extractor, all this are needed, but the cost are really expensive one compare to turbo engine, and the output are focus on high RPM range.
Same like other high performance N/A engine:
F1 V10 engine ~ over 15,000rpm MAX output
Spoon B16 ~ 12,000rpm MAX output
Motor GP engine ~ over 15,000rpm MAX output
For bro DaRkN3Zs normal kenari engine ~ 5200rpm MAX output
Same like other high performance N/A engine:
F1 V10 engine ~ over 15,000rpm MAX output
Spoon B16 ~ 12,000rpm MAX output
Motor GP engine ~ over 15,000rpm MAX output
For bro DaRkN3Zs normal kenari engine ~ 5200rpm MAX output
Hmmm.... bro DaRkN3Zs, I think there is no need any mod for your engine now, better save the money for your turbo project ^_^.
I have to remind you, to maintain the turbo engine is more difficult then the NA engine, and the clutch must be upgrade to prevent slip clutch problem, if your gear box is AT, then it should be ok.
I have to remind you, to maintain the turbo engine is more difficult then the NA engine, and the clutch must be upgrade to prevent slip clutch problem, if your gear box is AT, then it should be ok.
Mmmm.... don't know wor bro zach, may be speedwork have it, b'cause they have sale the heat shield of air filter for proton model.
If I'm right, you are going to cover the air filter and not radiator right??
If I'm right, you are going to cover the air filter and not radiator right??
thx bro cartoon for your recommendation...
1st of all, i'm using MT gearbox so as i can pull the rev to the right rpm.. (MT is better than AT,for me lah)
About the spark plug..it is the same length as the original plug and the fuel consumption(FC, am i right bout the term) is not so bad more or less like the original FC..so it shouldn't be a problem right?
owh.. i forgot to tell you that i want to have a car that is just nice where it have nice torque(pick-up, hope it in right spelling,hehehehe) and optimize the power of the engine..
is it true that the air charger will damage the car engine in the long period? as i would like to keep my car for a long time. after i install the super air charger, i felt that my middle range torque has increase better than i've install the volt stabilizer..
Bout the suspension, i keep it as low as possible as i want my car theme to be a street racing type car..and the brakes, i think i change it totally after i change to turbo engine..
at 3000rpm i can feel the torque is climbing and at 5000rpm i shift to another gear then i felt the push of perfect shifting(so i feel like that,hehehe).My car can reach 160km/h at 5000rpm at 4th gear..it that good?
lastly, which is better bro cartoon, N/A or turbo? considering the life long of the engine and financially? And Thx a lot for you info..i'm greatful..
1st of all, i'm using MT gearbox so as i can pull the rev to the right rpm.. (MT is better than AT,for me lah)
About the spark plug..it is the same length as the original plug and the fuel consumption(FC, am i right bout the term) is not so bad more or less like the original FC..so it shouldn't be a problem right?
owh.. i forgot to tell you that i want to have a car that is just nice where it have nice torque(pick-up, hope it in right spelling,hehehehe) and optimize the power of the engine..
is it true that the air charger will damage the car engine in the long period? as i would like to keep my car for a long time. after i install the super air charger, i felt that my middle range torque has increase better than i've install the volt stabilizer..
Bout the suspension, i keep it as low as possible as i want my car theme to be a street racing type car..and the brakes, i think i change it totally after i change to turbo engine..
at 3000rpm i can feel the torque is climbing and at 5000rpm i shift to another gear then i felt the push of perfect shifting(so i feel like that,hehehe).My car can reach 160km/h at 5000rpm at 4th gear..it that good?
lastly, which is better bro cartoon, N/A or turbo? considering the life long of the engine and financially? And Thx a lot for you info..i'm greatful..
For the spark plug, as you keep the same lenght as the original one, then there should be no problem ^_^.
I recommend change the extractor, it really help the N/A engine performance, but one thing is, the hourse power and torque output are focus on high RPM, this will weaken the low RPM output, so your car pick up abit slowly...-_-
For the air charger thing, yup, it really damage the engine in long period. Like I say before: more air by pass the throtle valve direct go inside the engine, create more power and more heat, so the ECU first action is reduce the amount of fuel supply in order to reduce the heat, that is why people say this is the fuel saving system. This will cause engine burn too lean, and will cause damage to the engine.
I have to remind you, shifting gear too fast will damage the clutch, and this is not the effective way to increase the speed. Every time you shifting the gear, you will notice that the RPM will drop 900rpm~1300rpm, this is the diffrend between the gear ratio.
Exp: gear 2 and gear 3 have 1000rpm diffrend, during gear 2 you REV to 5000rpm, when you shifting gear to gear 3, you must let the RPM drop to 4000rpm. If the shifting is earlly before the RPM drop to 4000rpm, the extra force will force the engine speed drop, and create the feel like pushing, but not speeding. Same thing happen when down shifting ^_^
Your car can go 160km/h, but the problem is, you can control or handle it or not?? can the car be control at this speed? think again bro DaRkN3Zs. Safety first ^_^.
N/A engine and turbo engine, which one better? Is hard to say which one is better, if talk about performance, then turbo engine is the choice. But if talk about good fuel cunsumption and easy maintenance, N/A engine is the choice. The main point is, no matter how great the engine is, proper maintenance is the key for engine life ^_^
I recommend change the extractor, it really help the N/A engine performance, but one thing is, the hourse power and torque output are focus on high RPM, this will weaken the low RPM output, so your car pick up abit slowly...-_-
For the air charger thing, yup, it really damage the engine in long period. Like I say before: more air by pass the throtle valve direct go inside the engine, create more power and more heat, so the ECU first action is reduce the amount of fuel supply in order to reduce the heat, that is why people say this is the fuel saving system. This will cause engine burn too lean, and will cause damage to the engine.
I have to remind you, shifting gear too fast will damage the clutch, and this is not the effective way to increase the speed. Every time you shifting the gear, you will notice that the RPM will drop 900rpm~1300rpm, this is the diffrend between the gear ratio.
Exp: gear 2 and gear 3 have 1000rpm diffrend, during gear 2 you REV to 5000rpm, when you shifting gear to gear 3, you must let the RPM drop to 4000rpm. If the shifting is earlly before the RPM drop to 4000rpm, the extra force will force the engine speed drop, and create the feel like pushing, but not speeding. Same thing happen when down shifting ^_^
Your car can go 160km/h, but the problem is, you can control or handle it or not?? can the car be control at this speed? think again bro DaRkN3Zs. Safety first ^_^.
N/A engine and turbo engine, which one better? Is hard to say which one is better, if talk about performance, then turbo engine is the choice. But if talk about good fuel cunsumption and easy maintenance, N/A engine is the choice. The main point is, no matter how great the engine is, proper maintenance is the key for engine life ^_^
thx bro cartoon.. i get the point bout the shifting.. bout the 160km/h,hehehe..i drive at a straight lane.. of course,safety 1st..tq..
i think i'll save up money to change to turbo system..do i have to change the engine to another engine? if so,what kind of engine? if i do change to turbo system, i need to installed BOV, the small fuel tank injecter(don't remember the exect name/term) and change the ECU at the same time if i want to have a proper starting turbo system,right?
i wanna thank you again for the info u gave me..it help a lot..coz i love my car (my beloved isteri no 1..hehehe)
i think i'll save up money to change to turbo system..do i have to change the engine to another engine? if so,what kind of engine? if i do change to turbo system, i need to installed BOV, the small fuel tank injecter(don't remember the exect name/term) and change the ECU at the same time if i want to have a proper starting turbo system,right?
i wanna thank you again for the info u gave me..it help a lot..coz i love my car (my beloved isteri no 1..hehehe)
HA HA HA HA ^_^~! relax, relax bro DaRkN3Zs ^_^. To install the turbo system in N/A engine, it call "bolt on turbo" system, this allow the engine become more power with low boost presure, and it need to re-program the ECU too.
This bolt on turbo system is not stayble yet in malaysia. But this system is very popular at other country. So I don't recommend you try it.....forgive me bro DaRkN3Zs...-_-. Change to complete turbo engine should be better ^_^.
To become a new turbo engine owner, first thing is DO NOT MODIFY THE ENGINE ~^_^. Why ar? you must learn first mah~HA HA ^_^. Many people like to modify the engine with out understanding, I do ask them why you modify this, what for? answer is "look smart lor", "ying lor"...........
OK, start from engine compression ratio first, engine compression ratio is the pressure produce by piston reach the top dead center (TDC). Normal compression ratio of N/A engine are greater then the turbo engine, this doesn't mean turbo engine are weak, this compression ratio is before the turbine begin to compress. When the turbine begin to compress, the compression ratio of turbo engine is equal or greater then the N/A engine.
So how is the performance of the turbo engine, before the turbine begin to compress? Answer is engine no power, high fuel consumption, carbon easy to build up.
Ofcourse, high compression ratio engine need high octane fuel to prevent engine "knocking", engine knocking mean the fuel didn't ignite by the spark but ignite by the pressure of high compression. This will force the engine going backward, and cause serious of damage, the worst, engine will blow up it self.
Why you have to learn all this? Be'cause this is the basic, before you learn the turbo boost control. ^_^
This bolt on turbo system is not stayble yet in malaysia. But this system is very popular at other country. So I don't recommend you try it.....forgive me bro DaRkN3Zs...-_-. Change to complete turbo engine should be better ^_^.
To become a new turbo engine owner, first thing is DO NOT MODIFY THE ENGINE ~^_^. Why ar? you must learn first mah~HA HA ^_^. Many people like to modify the engine with out understanding, I do ask them why you modify this, what for? answer is "look smart lor", "ying lor"...........
OK, start from engine compression ratio first, engine compression ratio is the pressure produce by piston reach the top dead center (TDC). Normal compression ratio of N/A engine are greater then the turbo engine, this doesn't mean turbo engine are weak, this compression ratio is before the turbine begin to compress. When the turbine begin to compress, the compression ratio of turbo engine is equal or greater then the N/A engine.
So how is the performance of the turbo engine, before the turbine begin to compress? Answer is engine no power, high fuel consumption, carbon easy to build up.
Ofcourse, high compression ratio engine need high octane fuel to prevent engine "knocking", engine knocking mean the fuel didn't ignite by the spark but ignite by the pressure of high compression. This will force the engine going backward, and cause serious of damage, the worst, engine will blow up it self.
Why you have to learn all this? Be'cause this is the basic, before you learn the turbo boost control. ^_^
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hmm.. i think i know what you mean bro cartoon..thx for the info.. i think i need to do some homework on turbo system..
i need to learn 1st bout the different between the turbo system and N/A system..then i can decide to have which type i want, financially i don't care much as money u can look for as i want the best for my car.. coz i don't want to loose my isteri ( sayang oo..hehehehe ).
thx again bro cartoon..talk to u again after i've done some research..thx
i need to learn 1st bout the different between the turbo system and N/A system..then i can decide to have which type i want, financially i don't care much as money u can look for as i want the best for my car.. coz i don't want to loose my isteri ( sayang oo..hehehehe ).
thx again bro cartoon..talk to u again after i've done some research..thx
You are welcome bro DaRkN3Zs ^_^, by the way, this web site got a lot of information about automobile, this will help you much ^_^. Howstuffworks "Auto Channel"
OK OK zach, it is a easy DIY but also becareful. First I don't know your car ECU need to reset or not, if unplug the battery terminal. So before starting the DIY, for safety first, turn the engine off.
Start from the negative side of battery terminal, you can see there is a screw nut with bolt, open the screw nut then attach the cable from your voltage stabilizer negative marking, then tighten back. During this DIY, don't touch the positive side of the battery terminal~! while you are working on negative side of battery terminal.
Repeat the same step on the the positive side of battery terminal, one more time; During this DIY, don't touch the negative side of the battery terminal~! while you are working on positive side of battery terminal. car body also act like negative side of battery terminal.
Make sure all the screw nut on battery terminal are tighten, then start the engine. First check the engine indicator light got light on or not, if no, then this DIY is complete done. If the engine indicator light on, send the car to service center to reset the ECU, *due to unplug the battery terminal, some data temporary store in ECU are gone*
Start from the negative side of battery terminal, you can see there is a screw nut with bolt, open the screw nut then attach the cable from your voltage stabilizer negative marking, then tighten back. During this DIY, don't touch the positive side of the battery terminal~! while you are working on negative side of battery terminal.
Repeat the same step on the the positive side of battery terminal, one more time; During this DIY, don't touch the negative side of the battery terminal~! while you are working on positive side of battery terminal. car body also act like negative side of battery terminal.
Make sure all the screw nut on battery terminal are tighten, then start the engine. First check the engine indicator light got light on or not, if no, then this DIY is complete done. If the engine indicator light on, send the car to service center to reset the ECU, *due to unplug the battery terminal, some data temporary store in ECU are gone*
You mean your putra? What happen? can you tell me more, what you mean going gila?
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