DIY Voltage Stabilizer

khguan said:
dat is not a VS already... dat is a stiffening cap... or some pl call it the audio cap as use it I.C.E. aplication...

using a few diff value cap with a single value cap do make a difference... there are reasons for it...

OIC.... :smile:
 
servo said:
19168.jpg



http://www.ptrs.com.tw/sard/products/elec/Sweeper.JPG
it supposes do the same thing as SARD sweeper, after all, I opened a SARD sweeper and mod this one


the electricity generate from automotive alternator has a frequency like black curve on figure 1,
with these capacitors helping out we can make the current less ripple and more or lese come to green line
figure 2 is the resistance formula for capacitor(s)
figure 3 is probably the most effecient way for capacitor to share and stablizing the ripples

some users of HKS version report loss power when engine reving over 6000rpm, so I went to test my setup earlier tonight, however I didn't get to go that fast when i spoted flashing lights around next bend on the highway

a4601481.jpg


I went overboard and triple the caps used on my setup over SARD one, so here are the caps spec.

4700uf 16V 105°C *6 (2~3 should be enough)
3900uf 16V 105°C *8 (none in SARD version)
3300uf 16V 105°C *6 (2~3 should be enough)
2200uf 16V 105°C *8 (none in SARD version)
1000uf 16V 105°C *6 (2~3 should be enough)

wiring diagram? look above on figure 3, just connect all negative of cap on the board with soldering iron, then connect all positive side, try to draw it so the middle part of both path are on the side and easily attach a foot of 10AWG(I used 8AWG) cable on the middle and to the side of casing

black wire to negative post on the battery and red wire connect to positive post on the battery. Be advise engine brake would be a little fade once this device installed, but you should notice engine is running a lot smoother and more powerful on start and/or AC/audio is on.

I will be testing on 4AT and NCVT models later this week


It seems that shops in Jalan Pasar do not have the 3900uF capacitors.

Is this a mistake in the value?
Where did u guys get the caps from? :shocked:
 
i dont think u can get 3800uF or 3900uF at Jln Pasar, except special order...

normal value for "polar" cap we can get is:

0.1u, 1u, 10u, 100u, 1000u....

2.2u, 22u, 220, 2200u...

3.3, 4.7, 6.8, .......

if u really need 3800u cap, u can parallel few cap:
eg: 2200+1000+6X100 = 3800...
 
yeah, put the wirering diagram much easier to understand, anyway nice job.
 
how do i know wheather the VS is working ar ? my one install then the LED light up brightly then slowly dimming ..... then when turn the light on n a/c on the light gone ......
 
Got few way can test ur VS function or not....

1. Connect ur VS to Car battery, and remove ur VS again... short circuit ur VS (connect ur VS "+" and "-" 2gether), if got spark.. it's means ur VS can store electric current and function. Disadvantage: don't know VS quality.....

2. Use "analog" multimeter, change to "ohm" "X1k" channel, connect red probe to VS "+" and black probe to VS "-". U will c indicator quickly moving to right side and after few seconds or mins (depend on ur VS capacitance, big value will take more time) indicator slowly go back left side... and approach "infinity" value... it's means ur VS working fine and can consider good quality..

If indicator can't turn back to left side, ex: stop at center or right side(zero ohm), ur VS inside maybe got one or few bad capacitor (bad? hard to explain:regular_smile: )... or ur VS totally short circuit.

This way can use by single capacitor quality checking also.

3. Use capacitance measurement measure ur VS capacitance.. if total value = measure value... (tolerance +/- 5% ~ 10%) can consider it's good...

And, edwin can u post ur VS inside picture (u hand made?).... I think ur VS's LED or circuitry got problem... LED shouldn't turn off... even ur car no start... (except ur VS got voltage level detector, can shutdown ur VS when stop ur engine)
 
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ya la hand made ....... i think got problem la .. dun have so high tech until got voltage level detector ......
 
thta one i did was like prototype ..... later wan do another one .... i bought the box too big ..... so cannot fit into my wira ..... somemore to many caps oledi ...... 24 caps .... too many oledi later wan do below 20 caps ...... value of 38 - 45 K mF
 
now i did one oledi ..... still the same thing occurs when the car runs onli the LED start to become bright ...... can help ?
 
The VS is connected parallel to the car battery. Therefore the LED should always be on all the time. Irrespective if the car ignition is on or not.

How did u connect your LED?

It should be connected parallel to the capacitors in the circuit with a 1K to 100K resistor connected in series on the +ve end of the diode.
 
ohh icic ...... thx anyway ..... but whats a VS spec for a wira 1.5 ....... i did a 42K but i felt like no difference when the car just start but after that got la ..... the a/c ..... wah i tabib ..... later i post my vs pic .....
 
Hi edwin,

Ur LED circuitry wrong.... and ur VS should be no function....

It's because ur VS can charging but can't discharge, when ur VS want discharge LED(Diode) block the discharge current...

This is the reason y ur VS's LED turn on when u connect to battery or start engine(VS at charging state), but turn off after few second(VS at saturation state but can't discharge coz block by LED)....

Please refer atttachment...

Drawing 1 is ur current design...

Drawing 2 is the correct design....

Wish can help u...
 
Yes, u can remove LED.....

Diagram? Drawing 2 remove LED and Resistor...

If u want repair ur VS, just need "short circuit" LED 2 pins...
 
what u mean by repair my VS ..... ? LED 2 pins ? ....... if i wan remove the LED just connect the empty spaces la ?
 
hahaha.. soli soli... poor english.... yup, connect empty space... please refer attachment...
 
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thats means no led and resistor also muz connect ah???
if i like ur diagram 2(without led)...still need to connect the circuit??
can give me ur contact number ah?
 

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