DIY - Cooler AirCon for FREE

Agree with cvKit17... Further more.. this DIY is so cheap.. if don;t like, can just remove it...

The only negative thing I can think of is IF the hose burst, it is hardly noticeable.. But yet again, how often you hear someone's aircon hose burst :P
 
Man you really live up to your title... All the DIY kaki's here teary-eyed now...including me
 
Agree with cvKit17... Further more.. this DIY is so cheap.. if don;t like, can just remove it...

The only negative thing I can think of is IF the hose burst, it is hardly noticeable.. But yet again, how often you hear someone's aircon hose burst :P

Burst no, but leak have. Yup, have to open to check, but then mostly leak at the joints....:driver:
 
Burst no, but leak have. Yup, have to open to check, but then mostly leak at the joints....:driver:

yah..the tube itself wont easily burst unless PocRoc bites it. Joint leaks are also quite rare because if it leaks, means poor workmanship already.. however it does happen sometimes in some car.

The hot side, my opinion is insulate those near to the engine. Those far away from the engine e.g. near to bottom, just let it be as the heat can be carried away by ram air when the car is moving. Not to say it is useless to insulate it, but I would say it is kinda insignificant.
 
aircond temp will effective drop 1-2 degrees...

:)

dropping 0.5 degree celcus is already good enough bro...it takes a lot of energy to drop 1 dg.C

Oh ya, one more thing guys..if you wana wrap the cold side with aluminum foil, get those foil which is reflective on both sides. You see, radiation exists in both sides - inside the pipe and outside the pipe. You can contain the coldness and also reflect the heat from outside. :smokin:
 
Done this to my daily ride. Even covering all the line up to the valve. Material : Plastic cover bought from Ace Hardware and aluminium
cover which cost rm5 bought from Daiso. Has some insulflex stuff which I plan to use on the hot spot.
Result : pretty cold at daytime. Using cheap tinted but level 2 with mid temp setting during hot day is sufficient with 4 person
on board .
Almost not usable at night. Set at level 1 with the temp shut down also still very cold. Have to close the air-con panel.
Will take a picture when I am free.
 
Don't aircon system runs on expansion theory? Compressor compressed the fluid thus higher temp, goes into the cabin pass the expansion valve, expanding fluid absorbs energy ie heat then cools down surrounding air(in the front of the blower) thus we get cool air. Cooler but expanded fluid now goes back to the compressor to be compressed again n the cycle continues. So in the engine compartment, the cooler pipe is actually output from the cabin n the hotter pipe is input to the cabin.
 
Don't aircon system runs on expansion theory? Compressor compressed the fluid thus higher temp, goes into the cabin pass the expansion valve, expanding fluid absorbs energy ie heat then cools down surrounding air(in the front of the blower) thus we get cool air. Cooler but expanded fluid now goes back to the compressor to be compressed again n the cycle continues. So in the engine compartment, the cooler pipe is actually output from the cabin n the hotter pipe is input to the cabin.

Errr dude u are right in some part, but very wrong in other parts. Google thermodynamics, rankine cycle, and also Carnot cycle. You will get the answer.

---------- Post added at 08:03 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:01 PM ----------

Done this to my daily ride. Even covering all the line up to the valve. Material : Plastic cover bought from Ace Hardware and aluminium
cover which cost rm5 bought from Daiso. Has some insulflex stuff which I plan to use on the hot spot.
Result : pretty cold at daytime. Using cheap tinted but level 2 with mid temp setting during hot day is sufficient with 4 person
on board .
Almost not usable at night. Set at level 1 with the temp shut down also still very cold. Have to close the air-con panel.
Will take a picture when I am free.

Good to hear that you have done your part to save some energy and also save the earth hehe...btw, what kind of plastic cover?
 
Don't aircon system runs on expansion theory? Compressor compressed the fluid thus higher temp, goes into the cabin pass the expansion valve, expanding fluid absorbs energy ie heat then cools down surrounding air(in the front of the blower) thus we get cool air. Cooler but expanded fluid now goes back to the compressor to be compressed again n the cycle continues. So in the engine compartment, the cooler pipe is actually output from the cabin n the hotter pipe is input to the cabin.

yes...but if we can reduce the energy loss by wrapping it with insulator/foil etc etc...hence it will be more efficient =cooler ac....

so i would if want to wrap the ac piping..then wrap all...and only leave the condenser/evaporator part exposed to their job :biggrin:
 
can anyone recommend a seller who sells insulflex in tube form? i can't seem to find anybody who sells in small volume

PM me, thanks!
 
Bringing up old post, since I did the insulation to my sister's car.

1. Choose the right internal diameter and thickness. Usually 1/2" ID is enough and 3/8" thickness is good enough.
IMG_4980_zps67ac028c.jpg


2. Identify the condensate or liquid line.
IMG_4984_zps59c02495.jpg


Like Johnsonlam mentioned, its easy to identify. Its the one with a cap and it will condensate when you run the AC.
IMG_4990_zps60d5bdfe.jpg


3. Cut the insulation tube.
IMG_4992_zpsd905e5f3.jpg


4. Slot in the insulation tube and cable tie it.
IMG_4994_zps6c2ae43e.jpg


5. Done !
 
Done mine
Thanks JL
 

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