BOV Recirculate
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if im not mistaken those Rally cars dun use BOv..response veri fast ... but i thnk there are cons too..wht is the use of BOV if it is created in the first place? no matter ball bering or fins turbine, slowly abusing them will lead to KONG!!! and i think if ur planning not to use bov, u must have piggy back or standalone to set the optimum settings for ur ride without BOv...u can see back fire from rally cars while engaging gears...shock man..and i think they r using antilag, they r doin lots of cornerings and need fast responce, so i guess without BOV will make more responsive, cus all the air will be recirculating inside the engine..
jus my 2 cents..dun shoot me..
jus my 2 cents..dun shoot me..
off topic a bit...
if we normal turbo cars full throttle or race all the way for a long run (eg: in highway but not like from klang to subang la.) will hav problem like turbo overheat or engine overheat rite?
y rally cars can tahan 1 ah? they do engine braking la, full throttle la n all sorts of hardcore techniques but wat i always hear is their gearbox kong oni. :huh:
kher : not necessary all turbo cars will face this particular probs..depending to the condition of the engine..sum might get overheated and sum may not..Evo,Subaru and other original turbo cars wont be overheated even they travel long distance but sum do if they did not maintain the engine..cus somehow they r stock but this probs will persist more to those car wif transplanted engine..eg: aircon is the biggest probs..dats wht i think for transplanted engines..i heard of transplanted engine wif sum mods travel long distance (hardcore driving) oso wont face overheat probs but sum even not hardcore driving got this kind off probs oredi..so it is veri hard to say..
rally cars, im not veri sure which parts tend to damage easily, but as u know they got lots of mechs and tuners beside them..they tune and tune to get the optimum performance without affecting the engine durability cus they need to win trophy man..and do we have one good tuner sitting beside us all the time?? NO!!! ... ehehhe..all of the mech oso cincai cincai set here and ther, and u think they will check the condition of the engine thoroughly ? NO!!! .. so this is one of the reason street cars sumhow not as strong compare to rally..they r set to have that kind of performance in that kind of place called RALLY..
jus my 2 cents
rally cars, im not veri sure which parts tend to damage easily, but as u know they got lots of mechs and tuners beside them..they tune and tune to get the optimum performance without affecting the engine durability cus they need to win trophy man..and do we have one good tuner sitting beside us all the time?? NO!!! ... ehehhe..all of the mech oso cincai cincai set here and ther, and u think they will check the condition of the engine thoroughly ? NO!!! .. so this is one of the reason street cars sumhow not as strong compare to rally..they r set to have that kind of performance in that kind of place called RALLY..
jus my 2 cents
oic...
but y related to air con 1? not radiator ah? :huh:
but if lancer itself transplant evo engine tis type of case will how? reliability ok ah?
coz same brand rite? hehe... :D
So.. everyone what is the best one for Evo3 huh??
Currently I'm using Sard R2D2..
can it be ok with it?
Currently I'm using Sard R2D2..
can it be ok with it?
kher : actually im tryin to say that most of transplanted cars face aircon prob besides overheat thingy..overheat thingy im not veri sure wht cause the probs..it might be radiator, it might be engine fan, it might be wiring probs too, not strong enuf to blow the hot temp of the engine..as for Lancer converted to EVO im not veri sure bout that..neva drive one so no comments on this..evrythin still falls down to the mech itself..
somehow i jus feel that original stock turbo cars are more durable compare to those wif transplanted one..even Lancer > EVO ...it is still transplanted engine not stock original rite..?? oni change the heart of the car only..does not matter wht engne to wht car, it all depends to the engine itself..mebi in Japan those JAPS use it like hardcore driving all the time..here damage ther damage..so wen it reaches MSIA, we r the one to repair one by one..unlike stock factory turbo cars, they recon or ur the first owner..ehehe..
jus my 2 cents..
somehow i jus feel that original stock turbo cars are more durable compare to those wif transplanted one..even Lancer > EVO ...it is still transplanted engine not stock original rite..?? oni change the heart of the car only..does not matter wht engne to wht car, it all depends to the engine itself..mebi in Japan those JAPS use it like hardcore driving all the time..here damage ther damage..so wen it reaches MSIA, we r the one to repair one by one..unlike stock factory turbo cars, they recon or ur the first owner..ehehe..
jus my 2 cents..
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Care to explain what is the EIDS? Is it a model of the HKS bov? thanks
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Hi Ed,
It stands for Electronic IDling Stabilizer, a product from HKS. Here's some description of the device from HKS USA.
http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=2175
Well some say this device is useless, change the bov will solve the problem and some say this device really works for their car, but for myself, yes, this device solved my idling and the stalling problem.
Other than that you might want to try the recirculation method which commonly used by the US folks.
http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=799
Hope this help :)
It stands for Electronic IDling Stabilizer, a product from HKS. Here's some description of the device from HKS USA.
http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=2175
Well some say this device is useless, change the bov will solve the problem and some say this device really works for their car, but for myself, yes, this device solved my idling and the stalling problem.
Other than that you might want to try the recirculation method which commonly used by the US folks.
http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=799
Hope this help :)
Extracted from EvolutionM.net
Definitions:
A compressor bypass valve (CBV) is a vacuum-actuated valve designed to release pressure from the intake tract of a turbo car when the throttle closes.It re-circulates the air back into the intake before the turbo inlet, but after the airflow sensor.
A blow-off valve (BOV) does the same thing, but the released air is vented into the atmosphere.
Purpose of a CBV:
The reason most turbo cars have a CBV is that when the throttle closes and the intake system is under pressure, the high-pressure air entering the motor will bump into the closed throttle plate, and (in the absence of a CBV) a pressure wave will travel back to the turbocharger.The result is that the compressor wheel will stall (a phenomenon known as “compressor surge”) and slow down very quickly.This is hard on the bearings and decreases the turbo’s lifespan, but it also means the turbo will take longer to spin up the next time the throttle is opened.
With the CBV in place, the pressurized air in front of the throttle body is released, and the turbo can freewheel happily.When the throttle opens again, the turbo will have a head start and will get up to speed faster, since it never stopped spinning in the first place.
Blow-Off Valves: Pros and Cons
A BOV does the exact same thing as a CBV, but the vented air is released to the atmosphere, causing a loud “PSSSSHT!” venting noise that is distinctive and attention-getting.Many turbo car owners (and people who wish they had turbo cars) love the noise.
The downside of releasing the air to atmosphere is that it has already been metered by the mass air sensor (MAS), and when it blows off the ECU will be injecting the wrong amount of fuel into the cylinders.(The MAS reads ten air units, say, and the ECU tells the injectors to squirt the right amount of fuel for ten air units.But then five of those air units are vented off to atmosphere, and only five make it to the cylinders, and five more have to be drawn from the outside air, through the MAS again) so the engine temporarily runs extremely rich, meaning too much fuel is injected into the cylinders.
This temporary rich condition isn’t usually that harmful, but it can cause bucking or hesitation on lift-throttle.If the condition is really bad it can eventually foul spark plugs and even clog the catalytic converter.(Unburned fuel on the cat burns very hot, and too much of it can melt the cat).
You can’t vent a stock CBV to atmosphere because the spring setting is too soft, and at idle or part-throttle it will open, which will confuse the MAS and cause rough running, stumbling, and stalling.A stiffer valve (like most aftermarket valves) will stay mostly closed at light vacuum, promoting better behavior when the valve is vented.The downside of stiffer valve spring pressure is that the valve may not open when releasing the throttle from light boost.This can cause some compressor surge (it sounds like a fluttering air noise), and can hinder turbo spool when shifting at light throttle angles.
CBV/BOV Tuning
Adjustable valves have a provision for changing the spring tension of the valve, usually in the form of a screw or a stack of shims for changing the spring preload.Customers often ask us how to set these.The short answer is that you want the valve as softly sprung as possible, while still stiff enough to hold the boost pressure you want to make.If set too soft, the valve will not close correctly the car will idle badly and bog when the throttle closes.If the valve is set too stiff, you will see lots of compressor surge, and the valve will not open at anything less than full pressure, and it will close too early, which defeats the whole purpose of having the valve.Use your boost gauge and your ear to figure out exactly what spring tension your car likes.Another handy tool is a hand vacuum/pressure pump, which you can apply to your stock valve and your aftermarket one to compare their behavior.Start with a spring tension that makes your aftermarket valve behave roughly the way your stock one does, and adjust from there.
BOV Maintenance Notes
We field a steady trickle of tech questions about jamming or sticking BOV’s.The nature of a BOV means it is exposed the elements under the hood, and that means sand, grit, road dust, and other debris can get trapped in the works of the valve.Most aftermarket valves can be disassembled and cleaned.If your valve is jamming or doesn’t seem to be working right, carefully take it apart – caution, the spring pressure is pretty strong! – and clean all the parts.Lubricate the valve with whatever substance the manufacturer recommends, and reassemble.We find this solves 90% of all BOV problems.Some BOV’s – like the Blitz model – come with an optional filter specifically for preventing this type of problem.
Our Recommendation
The best choice for drivability on the Evo is a CBV, which returns the vented air back to the intake.The stock valve works pretty well, although its plastic construction means it may leak a little at high boost levels.If you are going to run higher-than stock boost, you may want to run an aftermarket valve with tighter and/or adjustable spring pressure.
If you really want the noise and attention of a BOV, go for an aftermarket unit.Be prepared for some occasional stumbling and part-throttle compressor surge, but it’s nothing most people can’t live with.For a lot of our customers, the sheer thrill of that noise every time they get off the gas is worth any minor issues.
Definitions:
A compressor bypass valve (CBV) is a vacuum-actuated valve designed to release pressure from the intake tract of a turbo car when the throttle closes.It re-circulates the air back into the intake before the turbo inlet, but after the airflow sensor.
A blow-off valve (BOV) does the same thing, but the released air is vented into the atmosphere.
Purpose of a CBV:
The reason most turbo cars have a CBV is that when the throttle closes and the intake system is under pressure, the high-pressure air entering the motor will bump into the closed throttle plate, and (in the absence of a CBV) a pressure wave will travel back to the turbocharger.The result is that the compressor wheel will stall (a phenomenon known as “compressor surge”) and slow down very quickly.This is hard on the bearings and decreases the turbo’s lifespan, but it also means the turbo will take longer to spin up the next time the throttle is opened.
With the CBV in place, the pressurized air in front of the throttle body is released, and the turbo can freewheel happily.When the throttle opens again, the turbo will have a head start and will get up to speed faster, since it never stopped spinning in the first place.
Blow-Off Valves: Pros and Cons
A BOV does the exact same thing as a CBV, but the vented air is released to the atmosphere, causing a loud “PSSSSHT!” venting noise that is distinctive and attention-getting.Many turbo car owners (and people who wish they had turbo cars) love the noise.
The downside of releasing the air to atmosphere is that it has already been metered by the mass air sensor (MAS), and when it blows off the ECU will be injecting the wrong amount of fuel into the cylinders.(The MAS reads ten air units, say, and the ECU tells the injectors to squirt the right amount of fuel for ten air units.But then five of those air units are vented off to atmosphere, and only five make it to the cylinders, and five more have to be drawn from the outside air, through the MAS again) so the engine temporarily runs extremely rich, meaning too much fuel is injected into the cylinders.
This temporary rich condition isn’t usually that harmful, but it can cause bucking or hesitation on lift-throttle.If the condition is really bad it can eventually foul spark plugs and even clog the catalytic converter.(Unburned fuel on the cat burns very hot, and too much of it can melt the cat).
You can’t vent a stock CBV to atmosphere because the spring setting is too soft, and at idle or part-throttle it will open, which will confuse the MAS and cause rough running, stumbling, and stalling.A stiffer valve (like most aftermarket valves) will stay mostly closed at light vacuum, promoting better behavior when the valve is vented.The downside of stiffer valve spring pressure is that the valve may not open when releasing the throttle from light boost.This can cause some compressor surge (it sounds like a fluttering air noise), and can hinder turbo spool when shifting at light throttle angles.
CBV/BOV Tuning
Adjustable valves have a provision for changing the spring tension of the valve, usually in the form of a screw or a stack of shims for changing the spring preload.Customers often ask us how to set these.The short answer is that you want the valve as softly sprung as possible, while still stiff enough to hold the boost pressure you want to make.If set too soft, the valve will not close correctly the car will idle badly and bog when the throttle closes.If the valve is set too stiff, you will see lots of compressor surge, and the valve will not open at anything less than full pressure, and it will close too early, which defeats the whole purpose of having the valve.Use your boost gauge and your ear to figure out exactly what spring tension your car likes.Another handy tool is a hand vacuum/pressure pump, which you can apply to your stock valve and your aftermarket one to compare their behavior.Start with a spring tension that makes your aftermarket valve behave roughly the way your stock one does, and adjust from there.
BOV Maintenance Notes
We field a steady trickle of tech questions about jamming or sticking BOV’s.The nature of a BOV means it is exposed the elements under the hood, and that means sand, grit, road dust, and other debris can get trapped in the works of the valve.Most aftermarket valves can be disassembled and cleaned.If your valve is jamming or doesn’t seem to be working right, carefully take it apart – caution, the spring pressure is pretty strong! – and clean all the parts.Lubricate the valve with whatever substance the manufacturer recommends, and reassemble.We find this solves 90% of all BOV problems.Some BOV’s – like the Blitz model – come with an optional filter specifically for preventing this type of problem.
Our Recommendation
The best choice for drivability on the Evo is a CBV, which returns the vented air back to the intake.The stock valve works pretty well, although its plastic construction means it may leak a little at high boost levels.If you are going to run higher-than stock boost, you may want to run an aftermarket valve with tighter and/or adjustable spring pressure.
If you really want the noise and attention of a BOV, go for an aftermarket unit.Be prepared for some occasional stumbling and part-throttle compressor surge, but it’s nothing most people can’t live with.For a lot of our customers, the sheer thrill of that noise every time they get off the gas is worth any minor issues.
nice info there...
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