Adaptronic or Microtech for BT engine?

Sil80-13

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Hi sifus,

Just wondering if my BT engine is stock, if I want to install standalone ECU, will it make any big difference in terms of power & HP?

Adaptronic & Microtech which one is better for BT engines?
 
standalone for standard engine wont bring any significant increase in performance.. u need a balance between performance parts and management to get the best out of your engine

there are few criteria to get higher output

1. healthy engine
2. intake
3. exhaust
4. electronics / ignition

i see that quite a number of ppl with standard engine using only trumpet and extractor/exhaust system already quite satisfying results. however it is a difficult path to choose.. either to go for electronic first or mechanical first..

for me i would try the piggy back plus mechanical upgrade.. then only consider about standalone.. there are few management in the market, f con v-pro, haltec, motec, adaptronic, freedom etc.... but the if i wanna install.. the first thing that comes in my mind is who will do the setting?
for example, one of my fren is using f-con v-pro.. and the only guy that is very good in southeast asia is from thailand, mr toon's student... forgot the name already... so for any minor upgrade or changes in engine.. retuning is required for best results.i doubt that you will have time n money to send for retune every time you change something right? so it is best if you can get your best mechanical upgrade ( extractor, trumpet, plug cable, o2 sensor, engine compression.... ) before goin for standalone... and make sure some one is there to tune the standalone for best results..

that is only my 2 cents.. other sifus plz voice out if i m wrong...
 
Hi sifus,

Just wondering if my BT engine is stock, if I want to install standalone ECU, will it make any big difference in terms of power & HP?

Adaptronic & Microtech which one is better for BT engines?

You won't get much from stock engine la... Totally waste money project only...
Unless you install high cam, 5AG system, use DLI firing system, turbo and etc about internal upgrade..... Then only time for using Stand alone ECU.
 
You won't get much from stock engine la... Totally waste money project only...
Unless you install high cam, 5AG system, use DLI firing system, turbo and etc about internal upgrade..... Then only time for using Stand alone ECU.

actually if mod only trumpet n exhaust system already can start to play piggyback.. have seen damn fast 20v also... can play with b16b... if no mod then dun waste money on standalone.. useless..
 
actually if mod only trumpet n exhaust system already can start to play piggyback.. have seen damn fast 20v also... can play with b16b... if no mod then dun waste money on standalone.. useless..

Enough of thinking to VS here and there la... B16B if with loaded mod, i think our BT won't able to smell his ass too...

BT stock (6 speed) VS B16B stock = Confirmed B16B win! Unless miss gear...
 
there are some "special" case bt laying around... only we dunno of... trust me.. i was lucky enough to know 2 of them.. juz they all are low profile only, too bad i was not there to witness..

no management, only trumpet n extractor + piping, semi racing clutch vs b16b of almost the same spec, play with 2 different cars, win some lose some, no cash..juz for fun.. hehehe.. next time must go n take videos liao..
 
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stock engine with Adaptronic....such a rich guy...n waste money....heheh...i saw u open so many threat...but modify car is step by step improvement...try to learn walk before run...just my cent..:)
 
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eh, i have to disagree...
but u all said waste money etc2, u all tried ka?
toyota ecu, being conservative... maybe 90% potential. unlock 10% maybe 10-20 hp. u said not worth? try before u said anything and what ever u didnt try, dont say any speculations.
 
2 years back...

i test standard bt - whp 120
Emanage - whp 125
standalone (forgot wat brand, but is standalone) - whp 130.

for me not worth it...just my cent.. :)

maybe nowday adaptronic more advance...can gain 15hp for standard??
 
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Standalone can:

- Safely increase rev and more peakpower (need dynotune)
- More stable and higher torque powerband
- No speed limit
- Map A/F and ignition to optimum

Its not the increase of 10hp-15hp importance, its the engine respond and stability which is alot better than using piggyback.

But the main power still comes from a well build engine with performance aftermarket parts. Displacement, airflow of the engine block and the valve lifts are on of the crucial parts.

Do not expect plonk in a standalone n hoping for huge gains, it dont works that way.

---------- Post added at 10:11 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:08 AM ----------

anyway, BT still 1600cc lar.....so small displacement, how to kill B16C ? @.@
 
is true standalone able to gain the engine respond and stability....but increase of hp also very important....cos u spend so much of money....but end up with little hp gain....u know the feeling is damn down....i got this kind of feeling b4...hahhaa....
 
is true standalone able to gain the engine respond and stability....but increase of hp also very important....cos u spend so much of money....but end up with little hp gain....u know the feeling is damn down....i got this kind of feeling b4...hahhaa....

me too.....haha
 
for me just try if u wan. keep it if u satisfied with it and sold cheap cheap in u think not worth to used it. hehehehe:burnout::burnout:
 
I do test before... The result didn't impress me alot...
But, respond is improved... Sadly the FC also turn high too...


My past result...
SC12 + 4AGZE (stock) + Oversize pulley + Stock ECU = 148 WHP
SC12 + 4AGZE (stock) + Oversize Pulley + Haltec E6X = 156 WHP
SC14 + 4AGZE (stock) + Oversize Pulley + stock ECU = 167 WHP
SC14 + 4AGZE (stock) + Oversize Pulley + Haltec E6X = 175 WHP
SC14 + 4AGZE (Aftermarket Piston 81.5mm + BC Rod + 272 high cam in ex ) + Oversize Pulley + Stock ECU = 175 WHP
SC14 + 4AGZE (Aftermarket Piston 81.5mm + BC Rod + 272 high cam in ex) + Oversize Pulley + Haltec E6X = 193 WHP


Note: my result is base on boost 0.9 bar
 
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I think going for standalone should be one of the final upgrade decision once the engine has been fully done up (cams,piston,etc). For starters, I think piggyback should be well suited (judging by the price and performance). For eg, Emanage can increase about 10hp on wheel while standalone can do 15-20hp (depending on setup), I think price wise piggyback is more acceptable. But still, some will argue that Emanage is useless (no offence).

Besides, tuning a standalone for daily drive is not easy as most tuners do race tuning only. Running with a/c and all other equipments on standalone takes more tuning time and if not properly done, your daily ride will cause you a lot of headache. Car manufacturers spent years developing the ECU which involves many variables, different conditions, loads, temperatures, humidity, fuel and etc.

I think its best if you go ask the tuners directly, check to see if their standalone can guarantee your expected HP gain. A good tuner should be able to tell you the pros, cons and expected gain as per your engine's spec.
 
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eh, i have to disagree...
but u all said waste money etc2, u all tried ka?
toyota ecu, being conservative... maybe 90% potential. unlock 10% maybe 10-20 hp. u said not worth? try before u said anything and what ever u didnt try, dont say any speculations.

Sifu,

i think what they all are trying to say is it is best to go for standalone once the engine is prepped up, as will get more improvement compared to standard engine... coz i also think the same way.. by going standalone, we are investing minimum 4k and above for the extra gain.. tuning might be another issue.. like what my friend face.. but kl i think got ppl to tune standalone.. not here.. hehehe..

as i said before.. it is a difficult path to choose between performance parts and management due to budget... thats y i suggest go for piggy back plus performance part, then only standalone...

sorry ya.. this is my opinion, correct me if i m wrong..
 
Sifu,

i think what they all are trying to say is it is best to go for standalone once the engine is prepped up, as will get more improvement compared to standard engine... coz i also think the same way.. by going standalone, we are investing minimum 4k and above for the extra gain.. tuning might be another issue.. like what my friend face.. but kl i think got ppl to tune standalone.. not here.. hehehe..

as i said before.. it is a difficult path to choose between performance parts and management due to budget... thats y i suggest go for piggy back plus performance part, then only standalone...

sorry ya.. this is my opinion, correct me if i m wrong..

Even if it is 4K for 4 horse only, it is worth it. Every horse extra for NA, will make the driver happy horse smile.

Just my 2 cents experience.
 
just bear in mind, all standalone ecu or piggyback, their job is TUNING, not giving extra power. it only gains back what your engine losses power back to normal/optimum performance. all factory tuned ecu only produce 75% power from your engine, 25% are buffered to protect/improve ride comfort/drivablity of your car.

when u crave for power, these electronic stuff released all the buffered power, but wont be much gains.

real powers are from displacement, cams duration, physically modified, and your (retarded) ecu canot harness the "improvement" you have done, and this is the time u need a smarter "brain" to operate these new profound powers.

imho, if u want a really good street tune, by all means churn out 160whp, and you have a big smile on your face.

do some research how to hit 160whp first, what kind of hardware u need to replace, stroked, higcam, etc.....then dyno tune, observe the fuel comsumption, test it on hillclimb n highway top speed. find out what is the pro n con first, only decided u need piggy or standalone.

ROME IS NOT BUILT IN A DAY
 
ha, baru mau reply, sudah ada orang reply.
yes, with stock engine internals as what the topic started mentioned, there will be maximum hp or torque number that can be achieved. but with modification and mechanical upgrades, the maximum number should be higher.. as i said earlier, original ecu will keep some % and potential for durability of the whole engine. they keyword is tuning proper. unproper tuning, u buy what haltek, motek, freedom ka, all cannot unleash the hidden power being kept by original ecu.
and, we toyota is more keen to look at torque curve/numbers. if viteks, they measure with hp. why choose toyota if want hp? go for turbo la. or join viteks hehehhehehehhe.. will produce continous debates after this :biggrin:

this is another example: by bro trd.ae92 (even if there is typo error here, thats what i meant)
SC14 + 4AGZE (stock) + Oversize Pulley + Haltec E6X = 175 WHP
SC14 + 4AGZE (Aftermarket Piston 81.5mm + BC Rod + 272 high cam in ex ) + Oversize Pulley + Stock ECU = 175 WHP

see what a haltech can do? vs investing pistons + conrods + cams..

10whp from an NA engine is big. 13-15hp at flywheel.
u buy a big plot of land, but built small house.. later2 can renovate to big house..
u buy a small plot of land, built maximum, then cannot renovate, have to move to another plot of land.
its about maximizing potential. IF small budget la of course. ahhahahahhahahha
answering topic starter, i never tried that adaptronic nor microtech. but, tried a friend with stock engine and a microtech, the torque is way better at low rev, didnt have chance to try on high rev.
 
Even if it is 4K for 4 horse only, it is worth it. Every horse extra for NA, will make the driver happy horse smile.

Just my 2 cents experience.

e-manage with tuning already can get 5 horsies n above wor.. less than 1.5k for brand new one... y not go for piggy first? 4 horses for 4k? i surely wont go for it.. not worth it
 

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