4g15 mod

[vr2turbo]

I thought chrome ones are stainless steel.

If it is stainless steel, why need to chrome?

 

[issuzark]

Is yours an aeroback or sedan? Either way it'll be bigger than a Myvi. Same 1.5L capacity but the Myvi probably will do better FC. Parts are expensive for the Myvi compared to the Wira and maintenance is easier with the Wira. So easy in fact, you can DIY almost everything.

For a small sum of money, you could refurbish the interior, replace worn/torn parts and probably a small paint touchup the car will last you easily another 10 years. Only thing is insurance may not be ideal since there's a 5% loading on cars older than 9 years.

Wira has more space than the Myvi and more modding potential than the Myvi. The only downside unfortunately - it's higher in the theft scene than the Myvi. So secure it well and you'll be good. If you know how, you can custom mod the Wira to be harder to start/steal too. Oh and lastly 4G93T / Mivec / GSR are cheaper than K3VET.

Hehehehe.

FC and "reliability" are my family's concerns though. Also, my car is already 12 years old to begin with, so stuff the insurance bit. Just curious, would resetting VDO do me any good? I tried full throttle yesterday. It seems that I can't get past the 142kmph mark. Could be my shifting timing or other factors though. But that seems to be the max I usually get. Any ideas?

*edit edit*
Mine's an Aeroback.

 

[Izso]

FC and "reliability" are my family's concerns though. Also, my car is already 12 years old to begin with, so stuff the insurance bit. Just curious, would resetting VDO do me any good? I tried full throttle yesterday. It seems that I can't get past the 142kmph mark. Could be my shifting timing or other factors though. But that seems to be the max I usually get. Any ideas?

*edit edit*
Mine's an Aeroback.

What have you done to your car? 140km/h is kinda "low". Perhaps your car is worn out in places that need looking at. Oil seals, engine oil, ATF, rubber bushes, etc.

Reliability and FC? Easy. If you have the budget I can guide you to mod your car to be able to do 14/15km/L and after a rebuild, reliability won't be difficult since everything will be new/rebuilt.

If they are just looking for a "new" car, then there's nothing I can do to make them change their mind.

Basically it's either you spend < RM10k now to refurbish your car once and for all to last at least another 10 years OR.. spend > RM40k on a new car and pay through your nose for maintenance and constantly worrying about crashing the car because it's brand spanking new and you're not used to the car yet.

 

[issuzark]

What have you done to your car? 140km/h is kinda "low". Perhaps your car is worn out in places that need looking at. Oil seals, engine oil, ATF, rubber bushes, etc.

Reliability and FC? Easy. If you have the budget I can guide you to mod your car to be able to do 14/15km/L and after a rebuild, reliability won't be difficult since everything will be new/rebuilt.

If they are just looking for a "new" car, then there's nothing I can do to make them change their mind.

Basically it's either you spend < RM10k now to refurbish your car once and for all to last at least another 10 years OR.. spend > RM40k on a new car and pay through your nose for maintenance and constantly worrying about crashing the car because it's brand spanking new and you're not used to the car yet.

It's pretty much stock. Bushes and oil seals eh. I do remember those are worn out. Got to do repair those for sure. I'm thinking 140 being low too, considering the amount of stories I've heard of stock Wiras going 160/170. :rolleyes:

 

[john_unai]

Sigh. Are we on this topic again? Heat melting plastic inside the engine bay? Nah. 10 years of owning the Wira, changed fan motor twice only and only because the carbon thinned out and the other time the motor jammed up. The OEM fan plastic material is incredibly tough.

Piping is thinner perhaps. But what is wrong with that? It's prone to cracking only if exposed to extreme hot/cold temperatures. Like those with vented hoods that vent directly at the extractor. Driving hard and hot then suddenly it rains. Super hot metal pipes suddenly cooled by rain water - THEN it'll be likely to crack.

Having said that, there are some poor quality pipings/extractors that have poor welds or poor quality steel. Those might wear off faster than others. I used white steel from Everco and I replaced the entire system. No heat shield and no wrap. I didn't want to wrap because my entire exhaust was welded together without any flanges so to remove the exhaust was a lot of effort.

And there are generally two types of exhaust wraps - fiberglass (white coloured) and titanium cloth wraps. I had a titanium cloth wrap which was very easy to work with since it doesn't disturb the hand. Fiberglass is a bitch to work with - you need gloves and don't let it touch the skin at all otherwise it'll be itch galore.



That's very cheap. very very very very cheap

remind me of dat painful itchy feeling

 

[RENESIS VIII]

Sigh. Are we on this topic again? Heat melting plastic inside the engine bay? Nah. 10 years of owning the Wira, changed fan motor twice only and only because the carbon thinned out and the other time the motor jammed up. The OEM fan plastic material is incredibly tough.

Piping is thinner perhaps. But what is wrong with that? It's prone to cracking only if exposed to extreme hot/cold temperatures. Like those with vented hoods that vent directly at the extractor. Driving hard and hot then suddenly it rains. Super hot metal pipes suddenly cooled by rain water - THEN it'll be likely to crack.

Having said that, there are some poor quality pipings/extractors that have poor welds or poor quality steel. Those might wear off faster than others. I used white steel from Everco and I replaced the entire system. No heat shield and no wrap. I didn't want to wrap because my entire exhaust was welded together without any flanges so to remove the exhaust was a lot of effort.

And there are generally two types of exhaust wraps - fiberglass (white coloured) and titanium cloth wraps. I had a titanium cloth wrap which was very easy to work with since it doesn't disturb the hand. Fiberglass is a bitch to work with - you need gloves and don't let it touch the skin at all otherwise it'll be itch galore.



That's very cheap. very very very very cheap

Okay... So, I guess we can rule out the possibility of fan damage then. The question now is material then... RM140 for 4-2-1. It does give me doubts about the quality. On the other hand, mechanic told me if I do full piping including mid bullet and rear muffler, FC will be affected. Is it?

The mechanic test drive my car the other day and said the car feels lack of power. He told me to do reflash the ECU or something like that. He said probably the ECU settings inside my car went off or 'lari' already. Worth to go for reflash?

If it is stainless steel, why need to chrome?

Oh, haha. Because stainless steel is already chrome. Won't discolour right?

 

[vr2turbo]

Okay... So, I guess we can rule out the possibility of fan damage then. The question now is material then... RM140 for 4-2-1. It does give me doubts about the quality. On the other hand, mechanic told me if I do full piping including mid bullet and rear muffler, FC will be affected. Is it?

The mechanic test drive my car the other day and said the car feels lack of power. He told me to do reflash the ECU or something like that. He said probably the ECU settings inside my car went off or 'lari' already. Worth to go for reflash?



Oh, haha. Because stainless steel is already chrome. Won't discolour right?

Brother, you want power, yet you want good FC? How lah you going to go BIG mod?

As far as I know Wira ECU cannot re flash, better check with sifu Izso....

Stainless steel heated up also will discolor woh!

 

[issuzark]

Brother, you want power, yet you want good FC? How lah you going to go BIG mod?

As far as I know Wira ECU cannot re flash, better check with sifu Izso....

Stainless steel heated up also will discolor woh!

So bro, what do to VDO? Is a reset worth it?

 

[vr2turbo]

So bro, what do to VDO? Is a reset worth it?

Reset just remove the battery terminal for a while. No sure what you mean by worth it?

 

[issuzark]

Reset just remove the battery terminal for a while. No sure what you mean by worth it?

Let me rephrase it. I'm not sure about the risks of resetting it. Also, I should remove the negative terminal right?

 

[RENESIS VIII]

Brother, you want power, yet you want good FC? How lah you going to go BIG mod?

As far as I know Wira ECU cannot re flash, better check with sifu Izso....

Stainless steel heated up also will discolor woh!

FC because this car is still the daily transport car. Besides, don't have proper source of income for now, so better not mess with FC. Thought of just increasing a bit of power only. But if affect FC badly, then I'll just leave it stock and give it proper maintenance.

Maybe the term wasn't reflash. The mechanic said set back the ECU to original. I probably got confused with the term reflash.

 

[vr2turbo]

Let me rephrase it. I'm not sure about the risks of resetting it. Also, I should remove the negative terminal right?

ECU learns from drivers driving style. Reset just go back to factory setting and it starts to learn again. However if you usually use for town driving do not reset then drive outstation on the highway, that is what I was told. Probably someone with ECU skill can elaborate more on this.
I have already reset my ECU countless times. Changing battery, Car repairs that requires removing the battery terminal and so on....

---------- Post added at 08:18 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:17 AM ----------

FC because this car is still the daily transport car. Besides, don't have proper source of income for now, so better not mess with FC. Thought of just increasing a bit of power only. But if affect FC badly, then I'll just leave it stock and give it proper maintenance.

Maybe the term wasn't reflash. The mechanic said set back the ECU to original. I probably got confused with the term reflash.

Oh! then same as bro. issuzark comment on reset. You can try, no harm in resetting....

 

[Izso]

Okay... So, I guess we can rule out the possibility of fan damage then. The question now is material then... RM140 for 4-2-1. It does give me doubts about the quality. On the other hand, mechanic told me if I do full piping including mid bullet and rear muffler, FC will be affected. Is it?

The mechanic test drive my car the other day and said the car feels lack of power. He told me to do reflash the ECU or something like that. He said probably the ECU settings inside my car went off or 'lari' already. Worth to go for reflash?

That's super cheap for a 421. I would doubt the quality. And I wouldn't touch the exhaust if there's nothing wrong with it since your car is stock. And your mech isn't wrong - it'll affect FC if it's done incorrectly. Too large and you'll lose scavenging, lose back pressure and you'll rev more (more FC), etc. It's a fine line.

If you understand what reflashing does, you'll understand it's not a good idea unless you're looking for more power. It changes the fuel maps and all that so if you're looking for FC, probably best to leave at stock map. And VDOs can't be reflashed. MMC can. Don't bother la.

So bro, what do to VDO? Is a reset worth it?

Erm... reset for what? Are you having issues with the car? Why do you want it to relearn the way you drive if there's nothing wrong? Besides, all the PDT1000 can do is clear error codes if you have any. Want to reset it take out the battery and leave it out overnight. Next morning hook it back up and you're done. This doesn't necessarily clears the error codes so don't expect it to work if you have a check-engine light.

FC because this car is still the daily transport car. Besides, don't have proper source of income for now, so better not mess with FC. Thought of just increasing a bit of power only. But if affect FC badly, then I'll just leave it stock and give it proper maintenance.

Maybe the term wasn't reflash. The mechanic said set back the ECU to original. I probably got confused with the term reflash.

More power = more fuel.

But at the same time

more power = less effort to move.

So depending on whether you can control your right foot or not really. My Wira had plenty of oomph but at the same time if I'm careful I could get 15km/L which is normally not achievable unless you're going on the highway with a normal Wira. On the highway I once reached 17km/L averaging speeds of 90km/h only. But the problem with me is I can't resist redlining here and there. If I drive like a complete idiot and rev the crap outta of the car, I'd get 9km/L to 10km/L at most. Complete city driving with a 3-speed auto. It got almost impossible to control/resist when I swapped to manual. Rev rev rev shift rev rev rev shift x 1000

So people who talk about FC bad FC this FC that after modding, I blame the drivers self restraint. Except for forced induction la, that one no matter how much you control, it won't be too good FC. But who cares about FC if you have BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOSSSSST

 

[issuzark]

Erm... reset for what? Are you having issues with the car? Why do you want it to relearn the way you drive if there's nothing wrong? Besides, all the PDT1000 can do is clear error codes if you have any. Want to reset it take out the battery and leave it out overnight. Next morning hook it back up and you're done. This doesn't necessarily clears the error codes so don't expect it to work if you have a check-engine light.

Well, I got the car second-hand, so it's not exactly my driving style per-se. That being said, I've used it for 8 months now, and my driving style is still not exactly set. Also, I'm noticing my car liking to go into the highest gear all the time, even at speeds like 50.

On another hand, anyone has comments about making a hole for a ram pipe to an open pod? Or is drop-in still the way to go? I found out that the ram pipe option is much cheaper, not sure about the yield though.

 

[vr2turbo]

More power = more fuel.

But at the same time

more power = less effort to move.

So depending on whether you can control your right foot or not really. My Wira had plenty of oomph but at the same time if I'm careful I could get 15km/L which is normally not achievable unless you're going on the highway with a normal Wira. On the highway I once reached 17km/L averaging speeds of 90km/h only. But the problem with me is I can't resist redlining here and there. If I drive like a complete idiot and rev the crap outta of the car, I'd get 9km/L to 10km/L at most. Complete city driving with a 3-speed auto. It got almost impossible to control/resist when I swapped to manual. Rev rev rev shift rev rev rev shift x 1000

So people who talk about FC bad FC this FC that after modding, I blame the drivers self restraint. Except for forced induction la, that one no matter how much you control, it won't be too good FC. But who cares about FC if you have BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOSSSSST

That is the thing, no power, right foot also lazy to step, but once you have the power you think you will drive at 90kph......hahhahahhahahahahahah

---------- Post added at 09:33 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:31 AM ----------

Well, I got the car second-hand, so it's not exactly my driving style per-se. That being said, I've used it for 8 months now, and my driving style is still not exactly set. Also, I'm noticing my car liking to go into the highest gear all the time, even at speeds like 50.

On another hand, anyone has comments about making a hole for a ram pipe to an open pod? Or is drop-in still the way to go? I found out that the ram pipe option is much cheaper, not sure about the yield though.

Going to highest gear should not be the ECU problem. Probably set to fuel saving using more of the higher gear.
If use open pod better you have heat shield also. If not, drop in in much better....

 

[issuzark]

Going to highest gear should not be the ECU problem. Probably set to fuel saving using more of the higher gear.
If use open pod better you have heat shield also. If not, drop in in much better....

I wonder what setting would that be then.
I think the heat shield is an additional 50 - 80 bucks right? Is it universal, or does it differ by makes?

Also, if let's say I use a drop in, do I have to redo the piping, or do I just get the filter?

 

[stupidcar]

Well, I got the car second-hand, so it's not exactly my driving style per-se. That being said, I've used it for 8 months now, and my driving style is still not exactly set. Also, I'm noticing my car liking to go into the highest gear all the time, even at speeds like 50.

On another hand, anyone has comments about making a hole for a ram pipe to an open pod? Or is drop-in still the way to go? I found out that the ram pipe option is much cheaper, not sure about the yield though.

Normal Torque converter Autobox is like that. You are cruising what for you set to lower gear.
Lower gear=Higher RPM=More fuel+air

I wonder what setting would that be then.
I think the heat shield is an additional 50 - 80 bucks right? Is it universal, or does it differ by makes?

Also, if let's say I use a drop in, do I have to redo the piping, or do I just get the filter?

Heatshield can DIY. U go to workshop they also mock it up and do it.

 

[issuzark]

Normal Torque converter Autobox is like that. You are cruising what for you set to lower gear.
Lower gear=Higher RPM=More fuel+air



Heatshield can DIY. U go to workshop they also mock it up and do it.

So what you're saying is I'll either have to reset VDO or manually change gears?
Also, for the heatshield, I guess I'll get someone to fix that up when I change the air filter. I don't have tools.

 

[RENESIS VIII]

ECU learns from drivers driving style. Reset just go back to factory setting and it starts to learn again. However if you usually use for town driving do not reset then drive outstation on the highway, that is what I was told. Probably someone with ECU skill can elaborate more on this.
I have already reset my ECU countless times. Changing battery, Car repairs that requires removing the battery terminal and so on....

---------- Post added at 08:18 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:17 AM ----------



Oh! then same as bro. issuzark comment on reset. You can try, no harm in resetting....

Hmm, you mean when removing the battery, the ECU is reset or after removing the batteries, the ECU should be reset to get back its original settings?

That's super cheap for a 421. I would doubt the quality. And I wouldn't touch the exhaust if there's nothing wrong with it since your car is stock. And your mech isn't wrong - it'll affect FC if it's done incorrectly. Too large and you'll lose scavenging, lose back pressure and you'll rev more (more FC), etc. It's a fine line.

If you understand what reflashing does, you'll understand it's not a good idea unless you're looking for more power. It changes the fuel maps and all that so if you're looking for FC, probably best to leave at stock map. And VDOs can't be reflashed. MMC can. Don't bother la.



Erm... reset for what? Are you having issues with the car? Why do you want it to relearn the way you drive if there's nothing wrong? Besides, all the PDT1000 can do is clear error codes if you have any. Want to reset it take out the battery and leave it out overnight. Next morning hook it back up and you're done. This doesn't necessarily clears the error codes so don't expect it to work if you have a check-engine light.



More power = more fuel.

But at the same time

more power = less effort to move.

So depending on whether you can control your right foot or not really. My Wira had plenty of oomph but at the same time if I'm careful I could get 15km/L which is normally not achievable unless you're going on the highway with a normal Wira. On the highway I once reached 17km/L averaging speeds of 90km/h only. But the problem with me is I can't resist redlining here and there. If I drive like a complete idiot and rev the crap outta of the car, I'd get 9km/L to 10km/L at most. Complete city driving with a 3-speed auto. It got almost impossible to control/resist when I swapped to manual. Rev rev rev shift rev rev rev shift x 1000

So people who talk about FC bad FC this FC that after modding, I blame the drivers self restraint. Except for forced induction la, that one no matter how much you control, it won't be too good FC. But who cares about FC if you have BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOSSSSST

I'll scrap off the idea of buying that RM140 extractor. Bout the piping size, from what I read through searching around this forum, 1.7 and 1.8 inch should be good enough. However, unker Fred claims that he is using 2 inch previously. BTW, I'm using MMC so reflashing is possible...

My current FC is not that good because I occasionally shift at 3k or 4k rpm especially on the 1st and 2nd gear. I just like the pulling feel during 1st and 2nd gear. It feels even more fun when I shift quickly by releasing the clutch fast after engaging into the next gear.

 

[vr2turbo]

I wonder what setting would that be then.
I think the heat shield is an additional 50 - 80 bucks right? Is it universal, or does it differ by makes?

Also, if let's say I use a drop in, do I have to redo the piping, or do I just get the filter?

"Drop in" as it is named, just drop it in, nothing else.....

---------- Post added at 02:34 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 02:30 PM ----------

Hmm, you mean when removing the battery, the ECU is reset or after removing the batteries, the ECU should be reset to get back its original settings?



I'll scrap off the idea of buying that RM140 extractor. Bout the piping size, from what I read through searching around this forum, 1.7 and 1.8 inch should be good enough. However, unker Fred claims that he is using 2 inch previously. BTW, I'm using MMC so reflashing is possible...

My current FC is not that good because I occasionally shift at 3k or 4k rpm especially on the 1st and 2nd gear. I just like the pulling feel during 1st and 2nd gear. It feels even more fun when I shift quickly by releasing the clutch fast after engaging into the next gear.

The moment power is disconnected to the ECU, it resets as it loses all it's memory. Of course some say to leave it disconnected longer....

2" if you mod the engine further. If standard why need 2". Mine is 2.0 and turbo only using 2.5"....