Average Modifications Price

[Swifterific]

Hi guys, me again.

Ive done a lot of research (most of it online) about modding i.e: exhaust, springs, piston boring, camshafts, etc, but Im never sure how much all these will set me back. Lets get an average price shall we?

How much would all these cost individually? on average?

Full exhaust manifold

Open pod/CAI (not cap ayam one ah )

Piston boring

high cam

adjustable cam pulley

adjustable suspension

Larger brakes


feel free to add more. Sifoos needed

 

[DanzEterna]

wat car are u using & your budget?

 

[Swifterific]

wat car are u using & your budget?

Currently Suzuki Swift 1.5 Auto. Dont really have a budget yet. thats why i wna know the average of prices for these mods.

 

[DanzEterna]

piston enlargement, high cam, adj cam pulley is more to stage 2.
lets talk more on stage 1 1st. for eg: spark plugs, plugs cable, open pod - go for K&N u can go for open pod or normal ones, SS extractor with SS exhaust system, etc...

 

[Swifterific]

piston enlargement, high cam, adj cam pulley is more to stage 2.
lets talk more on stage 1 1st. for eg: spark plugs, plugs cable, open pod - go for K&N u can go for open pod or normal ones, SS extractor with SS exhaust system, etc...

How much would a full Stage 1 mod cost?

 

[Izso]

Don't listen to Danz. Don't care what stage stage business, straight go to the hardcore stuff otherwise you'll end up spending a LOT more than you'd care to imagine.

(Sorry ah Danz )

All those puny mods that you call "Stage 1" are quite pointless. You want value for money straight go for PNP (average cost for Wira 1.5k), oversized pistons and bore + resleeve (average cost for Wira 1.5k, no forged stuff of course), SOHC cams are 'cheap' - about 800 average. DOHC is double that minimum.

Suspension - take my advise, forget about hi/lo. Straight go for the good stuff hi/lo/soft/hard and just play with the spring stiffness. About 2.6k

Big brake kit - Wira has the option of Evos, GSR, and all. So it's relatively "cheaper" for Wiras, Average price - RM1000 front and rear. I suspect Swift will cost a lot more.

Lightweight rims - RM1.8k with tyres. Advanti Storms, cheap and cheerful lightweight rims.

Good tyres like GT Radial HPY 17" is RM300+ a piece I think. Thereabouts.

Autofoam for chassis stiffening and quietening the car - RM2k package.



Dude - take it from me. If you're gonna do it choose Forced induction or NA, and go all out. Small mods are not cost effective and give very short term satisfaction.

 

[Swifterific]

Don't listen to Danz. Don't care what stage stage business, straight go to the hardcore stuff otherwise you'll end up spending a LOT more than you'd care to imagine.

(Sorry ah Danz )

All those puny mods that you call "Stage 1" are quite pointless. You want value for money straight go for PNP (average cost for Wira 1.5k), oversized pistons and bore + resleeve (average cost for Wira 1.5k, no forged stuff of course), SOHC cams are 'cheap' - about 800 average. DOHC is double that minimum.

Suspension - take my advise, forget about hi/lo. Straight go for the good stuff hi/lo/soft/hard and just play with the spring stiffness. About 2.6k

Big brake kit - Wira has the option of Evos, GSR, and all. So it's relatively "cheaper" for Wiras, Average price - RM1000 front and rear. I suspect Swift will cost a lot more.

Lightweight rims - RM1.8k with tyres. Advanti Storms, cheap and cheerful lightweight rims.

Good tyres like GT Radial HPY 17" is RM300+ a piece I think. Thereabouts.

Autofoam for chassis stiffening and quietening the car - RM2k package.



Dude - take it from me. If you're gonna do it choose Forced induction or NA, and go all out. Small mods are not cost effective and give very short term satisfaction.

Woot great advice, again! thank you! So many questions to ask.

I really want to go all out with NA. I heard there's a blue swift roaming Johor running 160hp NA. thats amazing. How can i achieve that? But going forced induction is so tempting. Izso, is your car boosted or NA? what's your take on this?

Suspension i'm aiming just for that, (most probably Tein), with the strut bars as well. Big brakes i checked. its 2.5k for swift. gah.

Oversized pistons and bore - how do i do this? Do i need to find bigger pistons or can i use OEM? and what's resleeve? and what about exhaust systems?

 

[Izso]

Woot great advice, again! thank you! So many questions to ask.

I really want to go all out with NA. I heard there's a blue swift roaming Johor running 160hp NA. thats amazing. How can i achieve that? But going forced induction is so tempting. Izso, is your car boosted or NA? what's your take on this?

Suspension i'm aiming just for that, (most probably Tein), with the strut bars as well. Big brakes i checked. its 2.5k for swift. gah.

Oversized pistons and bore - how do i do this? Do i need to find bigger pistons or can i use OEM? and what's resleeve? and what about exhaust systems?

I'm not fully familiar with the Swift so I'll talk very generic mods that apply to almost all cars. My car is NA, FI will always be less reliable compared to NA unless it's stock FI (forced induction) to begin with. Even so maintenance is higher.

Does the swift have an aluminum block or steel block? If aluminum then you won't be able to do oversized pistons I think. I wonder if it's possible to bore out the cylinders.... Anyway for oversized pistons, the cheapest way is to find suitable pistons that are slightly larger (1mm to 2mm larger max) from another car, perhaps a Vitara piston or something (I'm not sure) and force fit it into your Swift. But since the piston is wider/larger, you'll need to bore the cylinder chamber to fit it. And usually if you bore it, it's advisable to reinforce the cylinder walls with a strong liner. Imagine you make the inside of a porcelain cup wider by boring it. It would make the cup walls very thin, so you reinforce the inside of the cup with a steel wall. That's what resleeving is. There's several types of sleeves in the market, the seriously overkill but strong like hell HKS ones, or the slightly cheaper but strong BMW ones and so on. Ask your mech/tuner and if they have the contacts they'll know what to recommend and at what cost.

The other thing that might work is a stroker kit. I don't know but *maybe* the Vitara crank might fit the Swift? Anyway, if you can get a stroker kit to go with the oversized pistons you'll be quite happy with the extra torque from the longer stroke and extra bhp from the pistons.

Suspension wise really depends on your age. If you're young and nubile - hi/lo will work for you. Tein Hi/lo can be quite harsh. If you're older like me, hi/lo/soft/hard is the way to go. I won't comment about brands, too many to choose from and personally tried only a limited few.

Personally I'd do exhaust last. You'll never know how far you'd wanna go with the engine. A Turbo exhaust can be as large as 3" width, mine was 2" throughout the whole system. But mine's a wira la, different car.

I think your stock car figures is in the 80bhp range right? To hit double that mark will be a challenge for NA. You'll definitely need to everything I just said earlier and on top of that have management. *maybe* you could hit 140 on the wheel. But I think the easiest way to achieve that sort of power is FI la.

 

[vr2turbo]

Hi guys, me again.

Ive done a lot of research (most of it online) about modding i.e: exhaust, springs, piston boring, camshafts, etc, but Im never sure how much all these will set me back. Lets get an average price shall we?

How much would all these cost individually? on average?

Full exhaust manifold

Open pod/CAI (not cap ayam one ah )

Piston boring

high cam

adjustable cam pulley

adjustable suspension

Larger brakes


feel free to add more. Sifoos needed

I thought you going to change to Swift Sports?.....

 

[ixeo]

Go big or go home. Turbo it, you'll smoke all those Suzuki Swift Sports in straight line and acceleration. They take corner faster than you, you just accelerate out the corner faster than them, you'll still be ahead.

Just don't go challenging FD2Rs.

As for N/A.. don't waste your time. The cost per horsepower is super duper expensive for N/A. And that Suzuki block is not a great base to start with for N/A, compare to K20s and B16s.. Some engines simply excel in N/A better than others.

How much would it cost you to make a 160bhp 1.5L N/A lump? Versus a B16 which has 160bhp out of the box..stock..

Don't waste time, don't waste money. Turbo saja.

 

[Swifterific]

N/a vs forced induction debate!

Sorry for the late reply guys.

In all seriousness, ixeo kinda has a point.... Better to just stock up on dat dolla bills and get a turbo. Hmm. But my car's an auto. Is getting a turbo a good idea? (Smack that turbo up with some cable controller eh? Would that work?)

I thought you going to change to Swift Sports?.....

I want to...but the second hand car market is cold as antartica right now. So better to just stick to the car. Im thankful anyways.

 

[Izso]

N/a vs forced induction debate!

Sorry for the late reply guys.

In all seriousness, ixeo kinda has a point.... Better to just stock up on dat dolla bills and get a turbo. Hmm. But my car's an auto. Is getting a turbo a good idea? (Smack that turbo up with some cable controller eh? Would that work?)

Try do some research and see how much punishment the GB can take. I've seen supercharged 3-speed auto Wiras with no issues.

I suspect you won't be able to go more than 0.6 bar boost though with that GB. If you're gonna go big get a manual, or just go low boost with the auto. Having said that, it's contradictory to what I said - and more importantly you'll get used to the power and will want more. So like I said - go big.

 

[Swifterific]

Try do some research and see how much punishment the GB can take. I've seen supercharged 3-speed auto Wiras with no issues.

I suspect you won't be able to go more than 0.6 bar boost though with that GB. If you're gonna go big get a manual, or just go low boost with the auto. Having said that, it's contradictory to what I said - and more importantly you'll get used to the power and will want more. So like I said - go big.

Ive done some research online. Most the swift can take is as you said, 0.6 bar. But if im going for turbo, should i buy parts myself and install it or should i buy off the shelf (i.e: speedworks)? Ive googled and it seems that buying parts is waaaayy more cheaper. (Parts: 3k - 4k / full set: 8k -9k.) td04s fit nicely in a swift

 

[DanzEterna]

zage is selling swift BOT parts for rm6k++
up to 40bhp & 70M torque.

buy this months ZTH mag. the advertisement is inside.

 

[Swifterific]

zage is selling swift BOT parts for rm6k++
up to 40bhp & 70M torque.

buy this months ZTH mag. the advertisement is inside.

Bought already and saw the same exact ad but in terms of gain, speedworks' bot increases alot more. Thats why im not so sure as to get that one.

 

[vr2turbo]

Bought already and saw the same exact ad but in terms of gain, speedworks' bot increases alot more. Thats why im not so sure as to get that one.

Why speedworks increase more? Bigger boost, extra mod?

 

[Swifterific]

Why speedworks increase more? Bigger boost, extra mod?

Im not so sure. Speedworks' turbo is at .6 boost but it increases bhp from 80 to 160. Zage's increase of 40 bhp would only be 120bhp.

 

[vr2turbo]

Im not so sure. Speedworks' turbo is at .6 boost but it increases bhp from 80 to 160. Zage's increase of 40 bhp would only be 120bhp.

To me, I don't think with 0.6 boost can double up the power, but seems they have chart to prove, right?

 

[k0pi]

wanna start modding?

1st purchase & installation : Engine Management Systems + Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
Currently, I vote E-Manage Ultimate + aftermarket MAP sensor + O2 wideband sensor. Why do I suggest EMS first before you start spending on other stuff - almost every stock engine is factory limited electronically of its bottomline potential 'while with' OEM hardware by at least 5-10 good wheel horsepower and 1-2kgft of torque, and the speed limiter. Having EMS & AFPR first also makes it worth it to proper tune later when you start adding on other performance hardware in the development process. Drive by wire throttle that hampers acceleration? EMU can do magic with that... no need to buy some DBW controller, and... controls the DVVT behavior of your Swift for a wider torque play.

2nd purchase : increasing the efficiency in-ex flow of air & burnt gas from your engine :
1. Start with a one time, good, cylinder head port & polishing job. Nevermind yet the intake system and exhaust system. The P&P job may optimize or exceed the capacity of the intake system & exhaust so later you'd know if you need to improve the intake flow or, the ex flow. Note that in many-many-many cases, OEM intake system (airfilter, throttle body, intake plenum) is actually capable for a huge hp increase support, and being good at it too, and so does the OEM extractor. By this point, after dyno-tuned your airfuel ratio accordingly to the new cylinder head flow rate, you should be able to have, surely better horsepower & torque on the dyno sheet.

With this 2 firsts packages to do, and about RM5,000 spent averagely include labor fees, it's gonna worth you every cents rather than spending on other cheap add-ons and expecting miracles to happen. Car will still looks stock, sounds NEARLY stock, but it will have a very different edge to acceleration and speed. Maybe you can do away the stock extractor with a reputable performance extractor to justify the powerband is since every factory extractors for these normal passenger cars are tuned for low - mid powerband play for fuel efficiency. Okay, so you like bigger exhausts... then by this point, it's okay... but please do the exhaust system with someone recommendable in the motorsport industry and not with some ahbeng ekjos shop. GO QUALITY, or stay home. This probably will set you back another RM1,000.

Next up : Fuelling system > fuel pump. Just upgrade the fuel pump to higher lph so the fuelling to the engine at high rpm won't lean out. The mean is, just so the spray pattern of your injectors into the manifold during higher and faster motion rpm, is as normal as at lower rpm because there is adequate fuel pressure in the fuel line. This will help your engine to survive longer and not sucking engine oil from below the pistons. Most blown engine occurs at high rpm because the fuel didn't reach the combustion chamber properly by 2 factors : insufficient fuel pressure in the line, causing injector spray patter to diminish - while you're seeing normal at the AFPR meter, or the injector itself couldn't supply enough fuel volume (in cc) when the engine is running at high speed/rpm. But when you upgrade the fuelling system, you have to upgrade your ignition system to a higher voltage supply at faster rate as well to compensate with the increasing speed capability of engine operation and upgrading engine's cooling efficiency (lower temp thermostat + engine oil radiator). At this point, whether you need to increase your injector cc, depends on dyno tuners because they'll know for sure during dynotest-tune process, nobody can say for sure before the car gets up on dyno and the AFR/Ignition tuned & observed. Another RM2,000.00 - Fuel pump, thermostat, oil cooler, installation fee.

and around RM800.00 buck spent for dyno tunings in and out. Wah... nearly RM8k... hahaha

After this point - if you're still not satisfied with the power - to turbocharged or to go edgy with NA 12/13.0:1 comp ratio, it's on you, but the car is already ready to receive it since every other essential things are there as base for the upgrade.

in... which i just recommend this rather than modders spending the hard earned money for stuff with 50% risk of actually eating away power.

 

[DanzEterna]

or maybe u could join the swift club Malaysia & get some ideas from their members. im sure some of them has supercharged or BOT their rides before.