Type-R upgrades

[Unsacred8002]

Hello all. A few questions.

Im driving an EG8 with B16A, spec 94. So now, since the mods i've done was only OpenPod, cables, plugs, exhaust and Crome chip, i actually have a few Type-R parts from CTR & ITR which i havent yet install. Right now, what i have in my stock is ITR 96 Spec IM+TB+Fuel Rail+Injector, CTR 99 Spec Fuel pump, ITR 98 Spec 4-1 OEM Header (Currently im on ITR 96 Spec 4-2-1), CTR 99 Spec 4-2-1 Header, and PCT ECU. My current setup is:

1. NGK R08 Cable+NGK Iridium BKR7EIX
2. ITR 96 4-2-1+2" pipe+mid bullet+RS-R Magic
3. 3" Rampipe+K&N Filter
4. Crome rechipped P30.

I've clocked 151HP from this mods, significantly increase from 140HP default reading. So, what i wanna ask now is:

1. If i do the IM swap, can i use ITR Injector? Its OBD-2 while my injector now is OBD-1. How can i use ITR injector on B16A?
2. If i do those IM swap+fuel rail+injector, is it necessary for me to swap the fuel pump too? Cause my friend told me that all the Type R value are diff e.g fuel pump pressure are higher than SiR, injector CC are higher than SiR. Cause im thinkin that, if i only change the injector without any upgrades similarly on Fuel Rail & Pump, it"ll hurt my car sooner or later (or did it?)
3. Since i have 3 headers now, which 1 do u guys think the best? CTR 4-2-1, ITR 4-1 or ITR 4-2-1? Planning to get Skunk2 Alpha in the future but i will get the header once i do the camswap.

So, can anybody share their opinion on this? Thanks.

 

[Unsacred8002]

Hello?

 

[mADmAN]

1/ no idea... but i remember avantech having some converter harness for injectors..they posted on their facebook.. perhaps can ask about that..coz i cant remember its convert from wat to wat.
2/ no need as far as i know.. im using H22A injectors with stock B16A pump.
3/ personally id use the 4-1...but ull sacrifice the low end and B16A low end is pretty much crap.....BUT... my old small V b16A was with 4-1 is actually not too bad...so yeah... 4-1 would be my choice.

just make sure to retune when all is done.

 

[Unsacred8002]

Thanks bro. :top:

 

[shiroitenshi]

1. If i do the IM swap, can i use ITR Injector? Its OBD-2 while my injector now is OBD-1. How can i use ITR injector on B16A?
2. If i do those IM swap+fuel rail+injector, is it necessary for me to swap the fuel pump too? Cause my friend told me that all the Type R value are diff e.g fuel pump pressure are higher than SiR, injector CC are higher than SiR. Cause im thinkin that, if i only change the injector without any upgrades similarly on Fuel Rail & Pump, it"ll hurt my car sooner or later (or did it?)
3. Since i have 3 headers now, which 1 do u guys think the best? CTR 4-2-1, ITR 4-1 or ITR 4-2-1? Planning to get Skunk2 Alpha in the future but i will get the header once i do the camswap.

So, can anybody share their opinion on this? Thanks.

spec is good, my old b16a clocks almost 170whp, 180+on engine on hondata ecu with mugen4-1, 2.25 exhaust, open pod and type r fuel regulator, so first I would recommend is checking your engine compression, should be 210psi or more on all fours, if one is under 200, then replace rings/rehone or rebore if required, that compression is also related to your valvetrain seal, so check those out too, cylinder compression is the most important in making power, lose those, all the upgrades won't help.

since you have tunable ecu, all those headers will workafter tuning, if you simply put in, then 4-2-1 will get you better midrange, and 4-1 will get you better top end, but this is based on stock ecu, so once you have crome, that formula doesn't work anymore, as you can tune the fuel to the different flow characteristics of the header

changing type r injectors is a waste of money u less your old injectors are jammed, they are both denso injectors at 240cc, just with different connectors. I usually just cleaned mine (sonic cleaning, go google), but now I've swapped to b20b for a while already, but b16a will never require bigger than 240, at most you'll be running 85% duty on those, so save your money on other mods.

pump replacement also can use stock, but change it because any honda pumps you're using now is probably near end of life,




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[Unsacred8002]

Oh.. Great info.. So, dats mean, what i av to do is just change the oil pump to EK9, and also do some injector servicing. Over here we av some injector cleaning service. For the headers, i'll change to 4-1 ITR. Thanks for the info.

 

[shiroitenshi]

I mean the fuel pump, whatever fuel pump that came in the tank is just waiting to die. oil pump change is good also, but a trick is to buy a b16a pump, then remove the washer at the tension spring, screw back and poof! an oil pump with near type R performance!

if you're running an engine oil cooler, I suggest putting in a 1mm washer at bypass spring. inside, not the outside bolt washer. this increases pressure because that oil cooler will reduce your oil pressure. don't do it without oil cooler, you risk cavitation, and thats bad.

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[Unsacred8002]

I mean the fuel pump, whatever fuel pump that came in the tank is just waiting to die. oil pump change is good also, but a trick is to buy a b16a pump, then remove the washer at the tension spring, screw back and poof! an oil pump with near type R performance!

if you're running an engine oil cooler, I suggest putting in a 1mm washer at bypass spring. inside, not the outside bolt washer. this increases pressure because that oil cooler will reduce your oil pressure. don't do it without oil cooler, you risk cavitation, and thats bad.

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I dont think i have an engine oil cooler.. Cuz im on 94 Spec of B16A. Where it don't have the VTEC pressure switch also. Usually, what is the price for new B16A piston ring?

 

[shiroitenshi]

I forget lo, long time since my last rebuild, i think last time rik 300?

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[Unsacred8002]

I forget lo, long time since my last rebuild, i think last time rik 300?

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300 per set or per pieces?

 

[shiroitenshi]

of course a set, and the rings are the cheapest part. the bore and hone will cost you more, depending on how good they are. never replace rings without a hone, it'll never seal and you'll consume oil. check compression first, if its not too bad, use it first. i only suggest a bore and hone if the engine is too poor condition, as in poor compression and consuming oil.

Heck when my b16 started consuming oil, i kept using it anyway, in fact, when I took out tp put in b20b, the engine was still working, but lost a lot of power already. 300,000km or so.

If you want more power on a budget, b16a is not the way to go. use the b16 till it wears, then convert b20b block later.

but its up to you. do comp test first and go from there.

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[Unsacred8002]

set, and the rings are the cheapest part. the bore and hone will cost you more, depending on how good they are. never replace rings without a hone, it'll never seal and you'll consume oil. check compression first, if its not too bad, use it first

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Sorry if i ask.. What is hone? And also, how to do a compression test? I heard there's a DIY way to check the compression. Is it?

 

[mADmAN]

I thinkbhe meant a compression leak down test...can be done at avantech sri kembangan for rm30 iirc

 

[Unsacred8002]

Thanks bro.. But i just think, nothing wrong with my compression now.. Car still feel good.. Fuel Consumption also good... This is what i think.. We never know the condition until we test it. But, as an owner of course i knew it IF sumthin is wrong with my ride. So far ok. Just engine oil is 2++km more to change. Hehehe.

 

[mADmAN]

i still think u should do the leak down test just to make sure... RM30 isnt that expensive to find out whether or not ur engine ok.

first thing i did after i finished running in my newly rebuilt engine was to go to avantech and do the leakdown test... after that only i went for retune :D