Type-R upgrades

shiroitenshi

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Too bad then, but the evo x is actually a good option, but I think since maintenance higher, it won't be long till those get retired as well. Thing with honda is they are relatively maintainance free, if you don't modify too much, just oil change and petrol, so if they chose fd2r, probably the car last forever, so 2nd tender will be much2 later, haha.

Nowdays people not playing honda already, most of the old guys I know move on to continentals already. Me, just stubborn because when car is cheap, if got damage, cheap to repair.

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Unsacred8002

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Sep 24, 2012
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Just imagine, if the one speeding on the highway is FD2R, with a Police logo n beacon light. Praaannngggg... chasing the criminal.. Hahaha.. But its all towards Police Modernization Plans. So, i dunno why the top brass favor the Evo's. Must be a good reason then. Wangan-star maybe?
 

peterj

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malaysian all addicted to evo maa.... what to do..... ada turbo woo.... beside, it can made the relationship between proton and mitsubishi closer also.....

better dont fd2r be police car la, later we all heard vtec praghhh instead of siren.....next time we praghh all the criminal run away think police is coming:biggrin:

and lucky is evo 10 not fd2r, if nt, the famous police car lost control into longkang will be fd2r not evo 10
 

Unsacred8002

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Sep 24, 2012
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malaysian all addicted to evo maa.... what to do..... ada turbo woo.... beside, it can made the relationship between proton and mitsubishi closer also.....

better dont fd2r be police car la, later we all heard vtec praghhh instead of siren.....next time we praghh all the criminal run away think police is coming:biggrin:

and lucky is evo 10 not fd2r, if nt, the famous police car lost control into longkang will be fd2r not evo 10
Ya la.. later on Honda community sure shame o. Hehehe.
 

shiroitenshi

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the honda community is getting smaller. most using newer gens already which is not performance oriented,

Good also, at least now I can park my car without people keep staring at it lol.

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Unsacred8002

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Sep 24, 2012
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the honda community is getting smaller. most using newer gens already which is not performance oriented,

Good also, at least now I can park my car without people keep staring at it lol.

Sent from my GT-I9100G using Tapatalk 2
Too bad... :bawling:

When i heard that Honda are likely to produce a new CTR which are most probably on turbocharged, i feel that those glorious years of high performance, high revving DOHC VTEC is coming to a death. Goshh.. those VTEC engines are honestly, IMHO is the best & most reliable engines I've ever driven in my life after experiencing Toyota, Proton, Perodua, Nissan & Mitsubishi. What a perfect balance of smoothness & raw N/A power with just a press of a pedals.. I do like the new gens of Honda's for its modern & state of the art function, but personally, I've still regards EG chassis was the best, well, at least for me. BUT its not overstatement for me to say that, what i love about Honda, especially the now EG i'm driving in, it have all the functions of early 90's which our beloved national car give only on 2000's era.. Take an example: Auto-flip mirror, SRS airbags, ABS, Traction Control, fully-adjustable electric seat(driver's), key & light warning, seat-belt warning, individual door indicator (EG8/9) and a cup holder. Sounds pretty basics but yeah, its nice enough since it was all fitted on 1992 cars and the best thing is it is usable until now.. It's a 21 years old car (my EG years of production 92/98) and 19 years old engine (94Spec B16A), but, it feels like i just fall in love with it everyday. Long live the Honda(old model especially), and ride it with pride.:adore:
 

shiroitenshi

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Sorry if i ask.. What is hone? And also, how to do a compression test? I heard there's a DIY way to check the compression. Is it?
Honing (metalworking) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

That's the general idea, for engines, it's to prepare the cylinder wall for new pistons and rings. As the hone wears, you'll get a perfect surface for the rings, and if you get perfect seal, you never have to top up engine oil. I have a working formula for running in the engines for a good seal, and my b20b, 4 litres go in, 4 litres come out after 5000K mileage. Of course got consume a bit, but it's negligible. My catch can is still quite empty after 3-4 oil changes. got a bit oil, but it's not even 1/8 full.

---------- Post added at 11:14 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:05 PM ----------

Too bad... :bawling:

When i heard that Honda are likely to produce a new CTR which are most probably on turbocharged, i feel that those glorious years of high performance, high revving DOHC VTEC is coming to a death. Goshh.. those VTEC engines are honestly, IMHO is the best & most reliable engines I've ever driven in my life after experiencing Toyota, Proton, Perodua, Nissan & Mitsubishi. What a perfect balance of smoothness & raw N/A power with just a press of a pedals.. I do like the new gens of Honda's for its modern & state of the art function, but personally, I've still regards EG chassis was the best, well, at least for me. BUT its not overstatement for me to say that, what i love about Honda, especially the now EG i'm driving in, it have all the functions of early 90's which our beloved national car give only on 2000's era.. Take an example: Auto-flip mirror, SRS airbags, ABS, Traction Control, fully-adjustable electric seat(driver's), key & light warning, seat-belt warning, individual door indicator (EG8/9) and a cup holder. Sounds pretty basics but yeah, its nice enough since it was all fitted on 1992 cars and the best thing is it is usable until now.. It's a 21 years old car (my EG years of production 92/98) and 19 years old engine (94Spec B16A), but, it feels like i just fall in love with it everyday. Long live the Honda(old model especially), and ride it with pride.:adore:
True, hello there fellow 92' EG. Mine also a 92, but it's the first batch, so got a bit of rust here and there already. actually near the rear quaterpanel only, but 21 years, so I don't mind it at all.

I started with D16, B16, then B20B. Skipped the B18 due to the price (during the time it was hot, B18C is costly but makes just a little more hp than the B16)

Mine is rather featureless, most comfort stuff already taken out except a/c (due to weather, else it's long gone already)

Just added mods that are functional, such as the rear bonnet from eg9 and the rear wiper. The rest all stock. I even keep the mudflaps (japan version is nicer than local spec one) so it looks just like a normal EG.
 
Last edited:

Unsacred8002

Known Member
Thread starter
Sep 24, 2012
102
12
518
Cat City
Honing (metalworking) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

That's the general idea, for engines, it's to prepare the cylinder wall for new pistons and rings. As the hone wears, you'll get a perfect surface for the rings, and if you get perfect seal, you never have to top up engine oil. I have a working formula for running in the engines for a good seal, and my b20b, 4 litres go in, 4 litres come out after 5000K mileage. Of course got consume a bit, but it's negligible. My catch can is still quite empty after 3-4 oil changes. got a bit oil, but it's not even 1/8 full.

---------- Post added at 11:14 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:05 PM ----------



True, hello there fellow 92' EG. Mine also a 92, but it's the first batch, so got a bit of rust here and there already. actually near the rear quaterpanel only, but 21 years, so I don't mind it at all.

I started with D16, B16, then B20B. Skipped the B18 due to the price (during the time it was hot, B18C is costly but makes just a little more hp than the B16)

Mine is rather featureless, most comfort stuff already taken out except a/c (due to weather, else it's long gone already)

Just added mods that are functional, such as the rear bonnet from eg9 and the rear wiper. The rest all stock. I even keep the mudflaps (japan version is nicer than local spec one) so it looks just like a normal EG.
Hello too felow EG.. hehe.. im still running stock on each bodyparts. Even still retain the curve EG8 spoiler. Hehehe. B18 engines are insanely expensive now.. with floor engine price can up to 5k w/o gbox. Im also interested in swapping B20 block.. Just i dont have basic idea of it.. Quite scared cuz a lotta my fren who do swap facing the problem i.e blok pecah, piston ring pecah n so on.. So maybe i can start by learning from u.. B20 block comes from CRV right? Non VTEC engine. So the rev are not high compared to B16. So how does it gain power actually?
 

shiroitenshi

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Apr 18, 2006
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Hello too felow EG.. hehe.. im still running stock on each bodyparts. Even still retain the curve EG8 spoiler. Hehehe. B18 engines are insanely expensive now.. with floor engine price can up to 5k w/o gbox. Im also interested in swapping B20 block.. Just i dont have basic idea of it.. Quite scared cuz a lotta my fren who do swap facing the problem i.e blok pecah, piston ring pecah n so on.. So maybe i can start by learning from u.. B20 block comes from CRV right? Non VTEC engine. So the rev are not high compared to B16. So how does it gain power actually?
It gains power by pure displacement, I run a 85*89 setup, custom arias forged piston dome volume

1) cranks were sent for balancing along with the flywheel, crank pulley and clutch cover. This reduces vibration a lot, so it's a good step to do for B20B since the original was not designed to run at such a high rpm. only the crank is required, but since the cost is roughly the same, I sent everything.

2) rebore for 85mm. You will need to match each piston to bore. You cannot simply plonk them in and expect them to rev 8K+ without problems.

3) cylinder head work. Replace all valvetrain, no questions asked, you do not want simply plonk in a high duration and lift cam on aging valvesprings (they have a lifespan). you'll drop a valve, and boom! all your money down the drain.

Total I spent I think in the region of 15K plus
block was RM500, but the workmanship and parts came to that amount.

Sounds scary, but I did this in the span of 3-4 years, one step at a time, while using my B16A, I was preparing my B20B already.

But budget spec would be shaved CF4 pistons (reduce compression)
new oem valvetrain (new springs, retainers and keepers, so you don't break them and kill your engine) with type R cams with adjustable pulley, (so can increase overlap, and reduce compression to suit the fuel)
Balance the crank (and the various bits since the price is the same, they only do it once with everything you give them)
Get a bottom end brace, there's cheaper options with Super90 now, last time have to buy from a Type R (I think B18C GSR has them too)

Total should be about 8-9K or more, if you buy a second hand hondata or a new one, but you'd make more power than B18C.

With that said, B18C is a bargain at 5K... IF you don't modify it at all.

If you start modifying, then the 5K + mods will easily exceed 8-9K, and you'll still end up with a less powerful engine than a B20B vtec.Unless you go turbo, but it'll still cost you to replace the pistons and rods with forged items.

so the choice is yours.
 
Last edited:

Unsacred8002

Known Member
Thread starter
Sep 24, 2012
102
12
518
Cat City
It gains power by pure displacement, I run a 85*89 setup, custom arias forged piston dome volume

1) cranks were sent for balancing along with the flywheel, crank pulley and clutch cover. This reduces vibration a lot, so it's a good step to do for B20B since the original was not designed to run at such a high rpm. only the crank is required, but since the cost is roughly the same, I sent everything.

2) rebore for 85mm. You will need to match each piston to bore. You cannot simply plonk them in and expect them to rev 8K+ without problems.

3) cylinder head work. Replace all valvetrain, no questions asked, you do not want simply plonk in a high duration and lift cam on aging valvesprings (they have a lifespan). you'll drop a valve, and boom! all your money down the drain.

Total I spent I think in the region of 15K plus
block was RM500, but the workmanship and parts came to that amount.

Sounds scary, but I did this in the span of 3-4 years, one step at a time, while using my B16A, I was preparing my B20B already.

But budget spec would be shaved CF4 pistons (reduce compression)
new oem valvetrain (new springs, retainers and keepers, so you don't break them and kill your engine) with type R cams with adjustable pulley, (so can increase overlap, and reduce compression to suit the fuel)
Balance the crank (and the various bits since the price is the same, they only do it once with everything you give them)
Get a bottom end brace, there's cheaper options with Super90 now, last time have to buy from a Type R (I think B18C GSR has them too)

Total should be about 8-9K or more, if you buy a second hand hondata or a new one, but you'd make more power than B18C.

With that said, B18C is a bargain at 5K... IF you don't modify it at all.

If you start modifying, then the 5K + mods will easily exceed 8-9K, and you'll still end up with a less powerful engine than a B20B vtec.Unless you go turbo, but it'll still cost you to replace the pistons and rods with forged items.

so the choice is yours.
wow.. sounds interesting... so, what is the rated power of that B20 setup of yours?
 

ehdrian

I Don't Care!
Senior Member
Dec 14, 2006
3,310
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Penang
Hello too felow EG.. hehe.. im still running stock on each bodyparts. Even still retain the curve EG8 spoiler. Hehehe. B18 engines are insanely expensive now.. with floor engine price can up to 5k w/o gbox. Im also interested in swapping B20 block.. Just i dont have basic idea of it.. Quite scared cuz a lotta my fren who do swap facing the problem i.e blok pecah, piston ring pecah n so on.. So maybe i can start by learning from u.. B20 block comes from CRV right? Non VTEC engine. So the rev are not high compared to B16. So how does it gain power actually?

Thanks for asking, i've been wanting to ask this for quite some time ade.
 

peterj

1,000 RPM
Senior Member
Apr 27, 2010
1,321
258
1,683
Kuching
It gains power by pure displacement, I run a 85*89 setup, custom arias forged piston dome volume

1) cranks were sent for balancing along with the flywheel, crank pulley and clutch cover. This reduces vibration a lot, so it's a good step to do for B20B since the original was not designed to run at such a high rpm. only the crank is required, but since the cost is roughly the same, I sent everything.

2) rebore for 85mm. You will need to match each piston to bore. You cannot simply plonk them in and expect them to rev 8K+ without problems.

3) cylinder head work. Replace all valvetrain, no questions asked, you do not want simply plonk in a high duration and lift cam on aging valvesprings (they have a lifespan). you'll drop a valve, and boom! all your money down the drain.

Total I spent I think in the region of 15K plus
block was RM500, but the workmanship and parts came to that amount.

Sounds scary, but I did this in the span of 3-4 years, one step at a time, while using my B16A, I was preparing my B20B already.

But budget spec would be shaved CF4 pistons (reduce compression)
new oem valvetrain (new springs, retainers and keepers, so you don't break them and kill your engine) with type R cams with adjustable pulley, (so can increase overlap, and reduce compression to suit the fuel)
Balance the crank (and the various bits since the price is the same, they only do it once with everything you give them)
Get a bottom end brace, there's cheaper options with Super90 now, last time have to buy from a Type R (I think B18C GSR has them too)

Total should be about 8-9K or more, if you buy a second hand hondata or a new one, but you'd make more power than B18C.

With that said, B18C is a bargain at 5K... IF you don't modify it at all.

If you start modifying, then the 5K + mods will easily exceed 8-9K, and you'll still end up with a less powerful engine than a B20B vtec.Unless you go turbo, but it'll still cost you to replace the pistons and rods with forged items.

so the choice is yours.
I am doing 84mm oem bore spec since i am a daily driven car,my mech suggest stock bore are better....still ended up spending bout 11k plus doing all, btw, i din go balancing, engine still good even doing 40 dyno run with rpm more then 8k rpm...most is 9.4k.... But still, u can see high rev are point less, power drop, best is 8.5k....but now shitty tuning,need retune soon...

Specs are..b20 stock block rehone, 84mm cp 12.5comp piston,skunk2 rods, acl race series bearing, arp headstuds,built head with bc valve retainer, springs, type r rocker, skunk2 tuner 2 cams...mild port polished head...

Unsacred, u can find me when u want upgrade, lol, u can do budget way just like the sifu said, more more budget, use back the stock b20 internals with new bearing and stock head and valve, piston need mod for the valve clearance...then ok liao, it will not powerful as those fully built, but sure the low end torque are much better then those b16 and b18 unmodded
 

ddv_nk12

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May 18, 2011
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PD
peterj, if I may ask, with 84mm 12.5 cr pistons, are you using RON 95 or 97? thanks
 

peterj

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Apr 27, 2010
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97 all the way..lol
 

ddv_nk12

1,000 RPM
May 18, 2011
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Thanks for sharing bro. U mentioned that it is still possible to use high cams without changing the pistons by modifying the piston valve clearance right? How is this done and how much would it cost roughly?
 

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