Adjusting camber for eg.

[freeman1314]

Sifus, I lowered my eg and now the front wheels camber is -2(both side) and rear is -1(both side).
I know there are adjustable camber kits for sale but I'm quite broke and cant really afford it now. Any choices to adjust the camber without adjustable camber kit and yet not spoiling the car ?
There are a few tyre shop which say they can adjust the camber for me but by bending something, but my friend told me it's not really a good way to adjust the cambers. Any advices please ?

 

[EGK20A]

No cheaper way other than buying a set of adjustable camber arms front and rear. Or raise the car back again, save up money to buy both F + R camber kit, then when u got the cash, lower it back and install the adjustable arms F + R.

The one that your friend was talking about : simply called "sepit udang" lol.

Or just live with it, but make sure toe F + R is set at 0. At least the wear on the inner side of the tyres won't wear out too much. Then rotate tyres as often as possible to even out the tyre wear all around. In the same time, keep saving cash for the F + R camber kits.

More camber usually equals to : wider contact patch during cornering, and it actually better with double wishbone suspension setup. Hence, that is why most sportcars and supercars still utilise double wishbone setup [ I might be wrong so don't shoot me if I'm wrong ].

For camber kits, I recommend HardRace, very da beefy.

 

[freeman1314]

More camber might be nicer during cornering but uneven tyre wear very headache lolz. Seldom play cornering now because of the height of the car, whenever i go through wave like roads or a small bump at higer speed my fender sure kena scratch by the tyre already. So car cannot go fast unless the road confirm even, which is imposible in malaysia.

For the hardrace camber kit, any idea for an estimated price ? I asked skunk2 for their price and it's really sky high T_T

 

[EGK20A]

That is why you must set the toe for F + R at 0, as I've stated above. Seriously if you don't want tyre wear, raise the car back to standard.

There will always be a trade - off when you change something.

Let's just say the HardRace camber kit's pricing is worth it for the quality of the parts, the beefiness of the arms itself, the nuts are almost - impossible to turn themselves loose, and the major point : the hardened rubber bushes which performs as well as it's Mugen counterpart but yet loads cheaper.

If you are really interested and not being a timewaster, PM me and I'll give you the number of Malaysia's distributor for HardRace. HardRace might be made in Taiwan, but here's a hint : search in Honda - Tech forumm with just the keyword "hardrace" and you'll be surprised.

If you really want to buy SK2's, go to N1, they're now the distributor for SK2 locally, so I presume their prices would be pretty okay. If you pay cash usually you'll get slightly better price.

More camber might be nicer during cornering but uneven tyre wear very headache lolz. Seldom play cornering now because of the height of the car, whenever i go through wave like roads or a small bump at higer speed my fender sure kena scratch by the tyre already. So car cannot go fast unless the road confirm even, which is imposible in malaysia.

For the hardrace camber kit, any idea for an estimated price ? I asked skunk2 for their price and it's really sky high T_T

Tyre rub is usually because :

- you set the car to be a bit too low
- you did not roll in your fenders
- your wheel offset is a bit too negative [ smaller offset number : more negative : tyre / wheel protrudes out further ]
- your spring rates are not stiff enough.

Worse - case scenario : damper needle valves need replacement.

 

[aalto]

Camber kits & race bushes are not the only way...

You can "pam" back the arms to get back the camber angles, its literally bending the upper arms to change the angles, it'll cost around RM60-90 per side..theres no harm in doing this because the bending is minimal.

But don't do this if your bushings are "kong" or it'll be pointless. Change the bushings first and then check the camber again.

If u want to save costs just go for standard bushings, or the cheapest option is to find a new "potong" pair of upper arms (just make sure the bushings are ok), the should cost around RM100 - 150..



Good luck

 

[freeman1314]

That is why you must set the toe for F + R at 0, as I've stated above. Seriously if you don't want tyre wear, raise the car back to standard.

There will always be a trade - off when you change something.

Let's just say the HardRace camber kit's pricing is worth it for the quality of the parts, the beefiness of the arms itself, the nuts are almost - impossible to turn themselves loose, and the major point : the hardened rubber bushes which performs as well as it's Mugen counterpart but yet loads cheaper.

If you are really interested and not being a timewaster, PM me and I'll give you the number of Malaysia's distributor for HardRace. HardRace might be made in Taiwan, but here's a hint : search in Honda - Tech forumm with just the keyword "hardrace" and you'll be surprised.

If you really want to buy SK2's, go to N1, they're now the distributor for SK2 locally, so I presume their prices would be pretty okay. If you pay cash usually you'll get slightly better price.



Tyre rub is usually because :

- you set the car to be a bit too low
- you did not roll in your fenders
- your wheel offset is a bit too negative [ smaller offset number : more negative : tyre / wheel protrudes out further ]
- your spring rates are not stiff enough.

Worse - case scenario : damper needle valves need replacement.

I think my car height considered low but not really very very low la. The front have about 1 finger clearance between tyre and fender.
-And yup i didnt roll in the fenders for the front. Just bend the rear fender's inside only.
-Wheel offset is +38 which should be quite common i guess ?
-I'm not really sure about the spring rates because i bought from chop shop, the condition are really quite good actually but I'm not sure about the spring rates. It's a hi/lo adjustable from cusco.

---------- Post added at 06:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:37 PM ----------

Camber kits & race bushes are not the only way...

You can "pam" back the arms to get back the camber angles, its literally bending the upper arms to change the angles, it'll cost around RM60-90 per side..theres no harm in doing this because the bending is minimal.

But don't do this if your bushings are "kong" or it'll be pointless. Change the bushings first and then check the camber again.

If u want to save costs just go for standard bushings, or the cheapest option is to find a new "potong" pair of upper arms (just make sure the bushings are ok), the should cost around RM100 - 150..



Good luck

I think that is what the tyre shop people offer me, but quite alot of my friends warn me against this method because by doing this if i want to adjust the camber again i will have to bend the arm again which will weaken the arm itself.

 

[LuKa]

my advise.. just go and do the pam chamber.. a lot of ppl doing it.. and its minimal bending..
but u can only pam the front only... the rear cannot.. n rear wont eat much for -1 chamber, barely noticeable wear at all for 15" rim wheel.. unless ur running on low profile tyres on bigger rims.. then it will wear the inside faster than the outer side..

if you slam your ride too low.. u have to bend all four of the inner fenders..the front usually ppl dont bend,coz its too thin.. if you dont want to see ur tyres been sliced by the sharp edges, it is better to bend all four at paint shop, n yess when you ketuk.. the paint will peel out.. maybe not at the moment.. but usually it will later on..

BUT.. with 0 chamber position.. ur wheel are straight... n more likely to rub the fenders..to minimize this.. you have to cut the upper portion of the plastic cover under the front fenders or remove it completely to make more moving space for the wheels when on uneven and bumpy roads.. these tips can only minimize the problems..

the best gap height for most civics would be around 2 fingers... n that means your finger is entering straight n sitting on the tyres AND NOT slunting upwards inside the fender ok,that means no finger can fit at all..

I guess you cant slam the ride very low n not having to sacrifice sumthing.. theres always a win n lose condition when you mod... or alter the vehicle from its OE form...

 

[freeman1314]

I guess mine lowered abit too much already lo liddat. But no choice, I like it lowered
The fender thing still dont bother me too much because I tink I'm gonna make it abit higher but it's the negative camber that makes me worry.

Btw, spotted a white eg hatch with sunroof on my way back from genting number plate 7348, wonder does it belong to any sifu's here ?

 

[LuKa]

if you value yr tyres.. you should do the chamber press then.. bout rm 40-50 per side..

 

[EGK20A]

If u really like your car to be that low, that's up to you.

I will still say the best option [ and cheapest, plus it will not add up to more problems later on ] is raising the height of your suspension again. Since most probably the height can be adjusted via the spring perches, go buy a pair of 'em spring perch spanners. Pr else, what is the point to buy adjustables in the 1st place, no? :D

I believe the choice are there, so choose either one to resolve your problem. :)

 

[freeman1314]

Decided to adjust the height first already after taking advices from u guys. Though I really like the low look but still tyres are expensive. Maybe after I get the adjustable camber kit then I will lower it that time.
Thanks guyz for the advices.