Headwork for the B16 head.

Hattech-v

That's a B16A block right? or is it B20B with retro fitted piston sprayers? looking at the bore size, I don't think it's a B20 or a B18 block.

Oh, and there's special feature on crower stroker kits, it's something to do with different oiling hole design on the crankshaft (which crower claims to offer better lubrication, but you know you can't trust catalogue crap too much,)

XXXX
About the guy who ported their intake and exhaust ports, what mag? and when?
It's would certainly be nice if there is a Malaysian shop that could do that. I wonder how high a compression with a high compression domed piston we can eke out before requiring racing fuels? That would probably be a question assuming we went the big valve route, enabling us to use really high compression domed pistons.

orc3368
A friend of mine might have a set, dunno if he still has it though. How much are you offering? PM me, since this is not a sale thread, and let's keep it on topic.
 
the guy is a very famous guy. he's driving a ek 2 door.
his car was featured in two recent mags n one of them is hypetune.
tat's all i know.
u can ask him or ask anyone who knows him about the his big valves.
 
Engine geometry (rod/stroke rasio) also important when it come for build NA honda engine. This will decide where you can place your most useable power. Long/short ratio both have their own pro and cons, but u will never get both.

Place your power wisely.
 
integramania,
u MUST b blind!!!

xxxx,
sharap...running in lar...wat race race?4got abt paragraph 4 last sentence arr??aiyoo...

damn...dis thread is getting interesting!!keep it up!!!
 
akuma....pls read wat i posted lar...which part does it say anything abt seeing anything lar....read properly lar my fren...kakakaka

u not in there buy my fren is....kekeke

yah this thread is damn exciting
 
lilvee,

A question for you, perhaps you know this.

long/short rod ratios affect the average speed of the piston, and in way affect leverage on the crank.

What I don't get is.. How come honda are the only ones using really short strokes on their engine, while the other makes don't even come close in doing the same? Some arguments I've read is due to reliability, because from what I know, short strokes, when severe enough, can cause accelerated cyclinder wall wear. I wonder why those B18C still get good mileage when they are also running low rod/stroke ratio (1.58, I think.. not sure)

Are they using some form of different cylinder lining from B16A?
 
Since most Honda's have ratios that are on the low side, I'm sure that you're wondering why and how. The main reason that the rod length is "short" is because a short rod allows a short block and a more compact package to put under ever lower hoods.--- aerodynamic issue. Juz look at EF,EG all damn lowered hood...

Honda uses a small bore and when coupled with a stroke that's not terribly long, the rod angle is still "severe" but not as bad as it'd be if the piston were larger in diameter.

Honda also uses an excellent method for lubricating the engines (as u said ealier-oil spraying), and engineering and material control is outstanding, which allows the performance and longetivity we expect.

The b18c1 and c5 (typo-R) have same r/s ratio 1.58, yes u r correct. But if you look at the Deck height, b18c will be higher than b16a. Correct me if i'm wrong.
 
Great informative thread, keep it up guys. I've learned a lot for 5 minutes of reading, but like most VTEC guys overseas ( and I believe Mr Ichishima himself ) K20A is the way to VTEC forward. Just my .02 cents!
 
integramania said:
akuma ur crx how? sudah modify kau kau ah?
crx team came out in hypertune wor....u not part of the group?

now u say lar u blind o not?if u read d hypertune n realise team CRX was featured mening ur must b blind coz i AM der in d pic n so is my CRX...blind blind..ahahahah
 
haha...i just flip only..maybe u too hensem until i cannot recog...i only recog one guy but saw Jee's car there...was his face in the pic too?
 
Hehe.. errata on my part..

A sleeved B20B can only go up to max 87mm bore, not 89.. oops!

Ace79,
Yes, but K20 halfcut is cost quite a bit, and it's not exactly a drop in solution as yet. those extra tit-bits that are needed for the K20 will be quite a sum too.
When the price comes down, and it will, it'll be a VERY viable option for power.

lilvee
Thanks for the heads up on short rod ratio info.
And yeah, B18C has a higher block height, I've noticed it as well. Probably because it has a bigger stroke.
 
cool forum info... anyway im offering a head job 4 port and polish oversize for intake and exaust port + valve ring port clearence
to make sure its performance this head job should go with at least a vafc (sumthing better = haltec) and a proper cam shaft..
well done head job can increase about 25hp... on wheels...
Anyone intrested can pm me...
 
Yes, it'll costs a lot, depends on car, if you're driving EK with digital aircon one, less prob when installing A/C + K20A R. Those items u speak of, will cost quite a sum, a header is about RM 5k++, shifter box about RM 600++, harness about RM 1.8k++, custom fuel lines, fuel regulator, bla bla bla. But it'll be money worth spending. U get at least a true 190 hp on the wheels, 6 speed gearbox + LSD, ability to sprint to 100 kph in about 6 seconds or less, mad top speed of well over 220 kph, can eat Evos and Scoobies....phew! And the engine wouldn't be outdated in a few years's time ( unlike our B series ) too! More parts, and tuning knowledge for K20A is pouring in day by day! Price might come down, but not by much, as most of the K20A conversion + tuning parts come from US, and DC5R halfcuts is still pretty steep in price.:cry_smile:

shiroitenshi said:
Ace79,
Yes, but K20 halfcut is cost quite a bit, and it's not exactly a drop in solution as yet. those extra tit-bits that are needed for the K20 will be quite a sum too.
When the price comes down, and it will, it'll be a VERY viable option for power.
 
ace79,
EK needs the power steering subframe off the EG, if I'm not mistaken, based on an article I saw on K-series conversion on Honda-Tuning a while back.

Anyway.. I've got a new question.
Let's just say I obtained a oversized valve head.
Now, I'm planning to use B16B camshafts for their higher lift than B18C.

I'm thinking it'll either:
a) The valves will hit each other on overlap.
b) The B18C piston will hit the valve at TDC.

Do you think the above will happen?

I just got a call from my friend that asks me this same question... The first thought that came to mind was to check the clearance of the valves, but he doesn't have the required equipment.

Anyone tried this combo before?
 
i think both oso possible.. valve hit each other on overlap n oso possible to hit the piston on TDC... but u can redo the valve pocket to solve the no 2 problem. for no 1 i oso no idea...
maybe anyone currently using oversize valve can share his experience here...
 
Get a b18c type R block or GSR.. throw in b20b crankshaft (stroke 89mm).. u will get 1900cc roughly... better torque than 1.8L (stroke 87.5mm if im not wrong)... and nicer to rev than a stock b20b.. Very good for daily driving + street racing

If u wanna build a very "sick" machine.. I think k24a is the way to go... TungChun's track car EK using this motor with ITB... FAST SIA...
My friend told me the car was featured in Putera Racing vcd?
 
TonyChopper,

Stroking is a good option, and I think is a cheaper option too.

K24? Major $$$$.. do you know how much a K-series ITB costs?

That's not including the EMS needed to control fuel injecton based on the TPS required for the ITB! (no plenum, so where's the manifold pressure? Ha Ha!)

Or performance camshafts, etc. etc.

I wonder how he fit the block in EK? I thought the block is very tall? Or did he mount it lower in the engine bay, until the sump is almost near the ground?

If use ITB and suddenly a lot of small sand particle enter the engine.. bye bye compression! I think that ITB option only suitable if you're a sponsored racerlah.
 
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ace79 said:
Yes, it'll costs a lot, depends on car, if you're driving EK with digital aircon one, less prob when installing A/C + K20A R. Those items u speak of, will cost quite a sum, a header is about RM 5k++, shifter box about RM 600++, harness about RM 1.8k++, custom fuel lines, fuel regulator, bla bla bla. But it'll be money worth spending. U get at least a true 190 hp on the wheels, 6 speed gearbox + LSD, ability to sprint to 100 kph in about 6 seconds or less, mad top speed of well over 220 kph, can eat Evos and Scoobies....phew! And the engine wouldn't be outdated in a few years's time ( unlike our B series ) too! More parts, and tuning knowledge for K20A is pouring in day by day! Price might come down, but not by much, as most of the K20A conversion + tuning parts come from US, and DC5R halfcuts is still pretty steep in price.:cry_smile:

shiroitenshi said:
Ace79,
Yes, but K20 halfcut is cost quite a bit, and it's not exactly a drop in solution as yet. those extra tit-bits that are needed for the K20 will be quite a sum too.
When the price comes down, and it will, it'll be a VERY viable option for power.



huh? since when k20A got 190hp on wheels? my friend's ep3 dyno only made 163 on wheels man.....stock......how to eat evos and scoobies liddat?
 
Maybe he meant the K20 of a DC5 Type R? seems like there's a few K20 with different power outputs, and only the DC5 type R manages hp around the 200hp region depending on mods?

More discussion required, I think.. Thought this topic has really expanded well beyond it's scope.
 

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