Got problem

Hey if the fuel pump does not sounds right then it probably is the reason of hesitate RPM, do you have a fuel pressure gauge installed with your after market Fuel Pressure Regulator ? Can you recall the suppose fuel pressure ?

Also how old is the fuel filter ? Do you think it might be clogged ?

Bro, thanks for your reply. My Sard fuel regulator is come without the gauge but I got Defi fuel pressure gauge inside cabin. It show 2.8 at idle, when giving gas it will increase but will drop back to 2.6 when release gas pedal then goes back to 2.8. I never change the fuel filter after I bought this car(9 months old). By the way, if I change the fuel filter, is it required for remap ecu?

Add in additional info of my problem. Got fuel smell come out from exhaust, is it fuel running rich or lean? sometime can see carbon(like burned paper) come out too......

---------- Post added at 01:46 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 01:42 AM ----------

hye.. i'm having kinda prob b4, same the fuel pump sound weird, u can hear it inside ur car.. car oso stalling.. the fuel regulator gauge playing from 2-5.5... try this n try that.. finally only my fuel regulator kaput.. now change to SARD and car back to normal.. just want to share~

Thank you so much bro for sharing. But my Sard fuel regulator just changed not long ago.... I changed it at Jan 2010.
 
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my fuel regulator b4 got gauge together.. its show the pressure fooling around.. wut I do, use pliers to block the fuel line at the regulator and monitor the pressure.. supposed the pressure will rise, but it just stuck around 5.. but this done by having the gauge at the regulator. previous reg is tomei, from the reg condition seriously never think that is the cause.. huhu~
anyway, feel sorry bout ur monster.. good luck then~!
 
Beside of this problem>> "When accelerating everything is fine, but if sudden slow down from high speed, my car will stalling. What is the problem..."

Tonight I drove my car out to refill petrol, I found that my car like very hesitate to move, rev goes up very slow like no power at all, the rev indicator like very heavy, like to stick below 1000rpm.... And I hear the shift gear sound(bov sound) not similar as normal. Normally the sound is from driver side, but now its from passenger side.... Besides that, every morning when I warm up the car, I can hear the sound from rear, mostly from fuel tank, the sound is not same like the usual fuel pump operating sound(when turn on without engine start) but like "duok duok duok duok~"

This week I'll get my clutch line and will go to solve this problem as well, but before that I hope to know what is the possible of causing this happen? I hope can narrow down the faulty area.... Anyone feel free can you give your opinion? Thank you so much for your reply~

My suspect:
- AAC valve dirty
- Vacuum hose leak
- BOV died


Well it seems like you answered your own question? I would suggest you take off your bov and block the pipe and see if it still has the problem. R34 GTR normally will not cause stalling from BOV, only the R33 has the flawed design. AAC valve will only cause rpm hunting, it will not cause the car to die while de-accelerating, but for the case of vacuum hose leak, yes it will cause the car to stall. I am just speculating, maybe the timing belt is jump 1 tooth too.

If the rpm rise slow or get stuck at certain rpm it might be a serious problem as your ecu is running in "safe mode", running rich and when it gets too rich your engine choke and will just cut off by itself. If the fuel pump is not priming up as usual then get the pump checked and check the battery too.

My biggest suspect is still vacuum leak somewhere. get all the pipes check and plastic hoses that doesnt have fuel in it checked.
 
I have a "great day" today.... Just bring my car to install the Orc clutch this afternoon, and found out the clutch inside my car was a push type os giken, mechanic told me inside hv been convert to push type adjustment kit thus I can't install the Orc cluthh which is pull type, so how and where to find the oem bnr34 pull type adjustment kit?? Really "lucky" la, pls give me suggestion bro~

---------- Post added 08-24-2010 at 01:23 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was 08-23-2010 at 10:42 PM ----------

Well it seems like you answered your own question? I would suggest you take off your bov and block the pipe and see if it still has the problem. R34 GTR normally will not cause stalling from BOV, only the R33 has the flawed design. AAC valve will only cause rpm hunting, it will not cause the car to die while de-accelerating, but for the case of vacuum hose leak, yes it will cause the car to stall. I am just speculating, maybe the timing belt is jump 1 tooth too.

If the rpm rise slow or get stuck at certain rpm it might be a serious problem as your ecu is running in "safe mode", running rich and when it gets too rich your engine choke and will just cut off by itself. If the fuel pump is not priming up as usual then get the pump checked and check the battery too.

My biggest suspect is still vacuum leak somewhere. get all the pipes check and plastic hoses that doesnt have fuel in it checked.

Thanks bro, my mechanic said big possible is vacuum leak. However, i'm stuck in changing my clutch. Since I bought my car 10 months ago, thus I don't know what clutch is used in my car, until today they took out the gearbox, I only found out that is a push type triple plate OS Giken. Since inside has been changed to push type adjustment kit so makes me can't install my ORC which is pull type clutch. My mechanic said help me to source for the pull type adjustment kit but it seems impossible...... haiz.... Anyway, thank for your suggestion bro~
 
my suggestion is:

sell your pull type clutch, get a push type clutch. This way its easier and faster to get the car out of the garage and not to mention push type getting very popular and easier to source these day thats why your car is converted to push type in the first place.
 
yeah dude.. the fastest way is to swap it to p659.. but i think there's not alot of things involve in the conversion right? all the best dude..
 
Then how about the nismo clutch pump and clutch line? Both this items can suit to use together with push type clutch? Lemon demon, i tot p659 is pull type also? Any push type clutch for bnr34 is good is holding power while provide driveabilty? Best is got samurai sound like Orc....

---------- Post added at 01:11 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:56 AM ----------

Update: my mechanic can't find any oem pull type adjustment kit. So I'll change my ORC clutch back to Os Giken triple plate, I bought a new triple plate os giken clutch and will install it asap. Only 1 thing I'm sad about is this clutch don't have kringgGGG sound....

---------- Post added at 01:15 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 01:11 PM ----------

yeah dude.. the fastest way is to swap it to p659.. but i think there's not alot of things involve in the conversion right? all the best dude..

Bro, p659 is pull type also, ORC only 1000F(triple plate) got available for push type... I don't wan choose this bcoz I worry it very stiff T_T since I'm used to be with my os giken edi.
 
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if you really want it, then tan chong motors can help you but they will order from japan for you. Roughly around 25 days will arrive. You will have to give them the full parts number as well because their nissan fast is retarded.

but my personal opinion is, nobody gives a shit about the krang sound or whatever. I know i get sick of it. I rather have no sound at all. (same goes to bov sound, its so fcking annoying)
 
Where did u buy ur orc clutch? The pull converter comes with the clutch when i bought mine. You can check with ST Wagan...
 
if you really want it, then tan chong motors can help you but they will order from japan for you. Roughly around 25 days will arrive. You will have to give them the full parts number as well because their nissan fast is retarded.

but my personal opinion is, nobody gives a shit about the krang sound or whatever. I know i get sick of it. I rather have no sound at all. (same goes to bov sound, its so fcking annoying)

Thanks bro~ I tot many ppl like the clutch sound and bov sound? But for me, I like the kring sound, bov I not so concern ^_^

---------- Post added at 07:01 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 06:55 PM ----------

Where did u buy ur orc clutch? The pull converter comes with the clutch when i bought mine. You can check with ST Wagan...

Bro, I ask my mechanic buy for me~ u are using the triple plate one? Btw, it come together with all convertion kit, so I can change it all to new one without future worry anymore.
 
Thanks bro~ I tot many ppl like the clutch sound and bov sound? But for me, I like the kring sound, bov I not so concern ^_^

---------- Post added at 07:01 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 06:55 PM ----------



Bro, I ask my mechanic buy for me~ u are using the triple plate one? Btw, it come together with all convertion kit, so I can change it all to new one without future worry anymore.

I am using twin plate 559. You are changing to triple plate?
 
I am using twin plate 559. You are changing to triple plate?

Bro, u using orc 559 twin clutch pull type or push type? I tot for bnr34 it only available for pull type? Anyway, I decided to use back os giken since it is push type and i used to be with it edi.
 
...Lemon demon, i tot p659 is pull type also? Any push type clutch for bnr34 is good is holding power while provide driveabilty? Best is got samurai sound like Orc....

dude, previously when i was searching for a new clutch, i bumped into a 659 push type which came with conversion kit at ST wangan..
i guess u can differentiate whether it's push or pull by noticing the center part, either concave inward or upward.. push type center part is inward n no ring.. i saw this model at ST:

http://www.rhdjapan.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/50416/Image/Normal/Image2.jpg

anyway, go for ORC dude.. you know i used to regret for its poor street drivability & freakin noises, but now, i'm just loving it! its start sound is the real head turner..

i think if u wana maintain the push should be no prob with the line, n for nismo cylinder is the same except it's being mounted facing an opposite way from pull..

do correct me if i'm wrong ya :nurse:
 
dude, previously when i was searching for a new clutch, i bumped into a 659 push type which came with conversion kit at ST wangan..
i guess u can differentiate whether it's push or pull by noticing the center part, either concave inward or upward.. push type center part is inward n no ring.. i saw this model at ST:

http://www.rhdjapan.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/50416/Image/Normal/Image2.jpg

anyway, go for ORC dude.. you know i used to regret for its poor street drivability & freakin noises, but now, i'm just loving it! its start sound is the real head turner..

i think if u wana maintain the push should be no prob with the line, n for nismo cylinder is the same except it's being mounted facing an opposite way from pull..

do correct me if i'm wrong ya :nurse:

Thanks bro for your info~ but it's too late, I've order the 3 plate os giken. Next time if got chance I hope can try for twin clutch, see any diff between both in pedal feeling.
 
Bro, u using orc 559 twin clutch pull type or push type? I tot for bnr34 it only available for pull type? Anyway, I decided to use back os giken since it is push type and i used to be with it edi.

This means you have a spare ORC Clutch...thinking of selling it?
 
This means you have a spare ORC Clutch...thinking of selling it?

Hehehe:-) maybe I can use back my ORC 559 twin, my mechanic try to find the pull adjustment for me. If they found one, then my life will be easy in term of money, time and driveability, most important I still prefer Orc kringggg sound ^_^
 
Hehehe:-) maybe I can use back my ORC 559 twin, my mechanic try to find the pull adjustment for me. If they found one, then my life will be easy in term of money, time and driveability, most important I still prefer Orc kringggg sound ^_^

Hope you can get the converter soon and enjoy the Kringgg sound. Good Luck.
 
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Update: Can't able to find the stock release fork, thus I change it to os giken str2cd. Today go test the clutch, I just can say it is super light featuring with new nismo cylinder and nismo clutch line. It's lighter than stock clutch.

---------- Post added at 07:40 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:35 PM ----------

Beside of this problem>> "When accelerating everything is fine, but if sudden slow down from high speed, my car will stalling. What is the problem..."

Tonight I drove my car out to refill petrol, I found that my car like very hesitate to move, rev goes up very slow like no power at all, the rev indicator like very heavy, like to stick below 1000rpm.... And I hear the shift gear sound(bov sound) not similar as normal. Normally the sound is from driver side, but now its from passenger side.... Besides that, every morning when I warm up the car, I can hear the sound from rear, mostly from fuel tank, the sound is not same like the usual fuel pump operating sound(when turn on without engine start) but like "duok duok duok duok~"

This week I'll get my clutch line and will go to solve this problem as well, but before that I hope to know what is the possible of causing this happen? I hope can narrow down the faulty area.... Anyone feel free can you give your opinion? Thank you so much for your reply~

My suspect:
- AAC valve dirty
- Vacuum hose leak
- BOV died

Problem solved. 5th and 6th Spark plug died...
 
Late update: finally got back my car last few days ago, realised os giken str2cd also have "kringgggg" sound when turn on the engine, it's very soft and I guess softer than stock clutch pedal(with nismo clutch pump) Btw, I've change a new coil plug, it is a okd plasma direct, the car is very very smooth and more response than before!
 
Late update: finally got back my car last few days ago, realised os giken str2cd also have "kringgggg" sound when turn on the engine, it's very soft and I guess softer than stock clutch pedal(with nismo clutch pump) Btw, I've change a new coil plug, it is a okd plasma direct, the car is very very smooth and more response than before!

Are you the 1 that bought the Okada from me (from Sabah)?
 

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