*Idle Problem*Do you encounter this?

[NeniNeniBoBo]

Bro if it is proven that the problem is with the BOV venting outwards, then u need to recalibrate/retune ur VPro lah..

Recirculation also would suffice, but as u said, no kapishh lah..

Hahaha:-) honestly, I very scare of retune, because I don't know how is my engine condition, later dyno tune engine pecah then I also Susah.... So recirculate better for me. Recirculate still got sound but not loud as direct vent to atmos

 

[Temujin]

Hahaha:-) honestly, I very scare of retune, because I don't know how is my engine condition, later dyno tune engine pecah then I also Susan.... So recirculate better for me. Recirculate still got sound but not loud as direct vent to atmos

If pecah it would be a very good reason to go 2.8 or a 3.0 lah.. hehehe..

 

[NeniNeniBoBo]

If pecah it would be a very good reason to go 2.8 or a 3.0 lah.. hehehe..

Hehehe:-) if money is not an issue to me, then Nvm~ too bad I'm not ^_^

 

[lemon_demon]

Thank you so much bro~ I'll tighten my BOV 1st, then if problem still occur, I'll recirculation it into my intake. Feel contradic in this case.... bOV got nice sound but will cause stall sometime, bov with recirculation setup will solve stall problem but no more fart sound... How you tap your gas pedal when come into stop? Brake and tapping gas at same time?

don't tighten it too much, it may cause back pressure to your turbo fin..
haha, i wont bother much if there is no bov sound at all, it's just fancy.. i prefer wastegate's evil sound like from neraka... haha
use heel-toe bro, but just tap n not step

 

[NeniNeniBoBo]

don't tighten it too much, it may cause back pressure to your turbo fin..
haha, i wont bother much if there is no bov sound at all, it's just fancy.. i prefer wastegate's evil sound like from neraka... haha
use heel-toe bro, but just tap n not step

I'll keep that in mind bro. U r right, stall occasionally better than turbo die, somemore still using ceramic stock snail...

 

[bnr_32]

Bro, I'm thinking of change my BOV to HKS SSQV with recirulation kit, I heard this is the best way to prevent stall. But as u mention one of the option to solve this problem is change to standalone ecu, I think this can't be solve the problem, because I'm using standalone ecu now and the problem still exist ocaasionally.

then u should visit your tuner bro.. no need for dyno just remap on the idle side

See that's what I said a few posts back. This is a common problem if you have a stock ECU. He has an F-Con V-Pro so it shouldn't be a problem.

yes it should be no prob if using v-pro like bro pimpin said

I guess my car is come with MAP setting when I bought. Btw, what is the diff between MAP, MAF and AFM... This is possible to cause stalling but how to determine whether this componet is default?

basically its the same thing interm of functionality.. its a sensor thats ecu use to determine the engine load and how much air is entering the engine and so it can give the rite amount of fuel and ignition timing.. the difference is how the sensor works.. MAP is manifold absolute pressure.. the sensor position is at the intake manifold after throttle body and it sense pressure.. MAF sensor is mass air flow and sometime called AFM that is air flow meter.. its located before the throttle body and it sense air flow

dude, eids wont even help.. i had 1 for each MAF, stalling still will occur..
i wish to just fix back my stock blow-in but i like my hks suction kit very much & not planning to fix back d stock airbox..
its a very common prob la bro, if u really wants it to be gone, the highest success rate is to recirculate (blow-in)

u need to adjust the the setting of your eids for it to work bro.. not just by turning the adjustment screw behind the unit as u like n feel.. u need to have a timing light and a wideband o2 meter (if u dont have wbo2 go get a cheap multimeter that can read volt).. remember that when u do an adjustment to the eids u actually altering the signal from your maf to your ecu.. thats mean u r altering your fulling n ignition timing on idle.. u need to refer to your wbo2 meter when adjusting eids to have your air fuel ratio right.. when u get your afr right then u need to reset back your ignition timing base when idle to 20btdc (rb26) using a timing light n turning your CAS (cam angle sensor)

don't tighten it too much, it may cause back pressure to your turbo fin..
haha, i wont bother much if there is no bov sound at all, it's just fancy.. i prefer wastegate's evil sound like from neraka... haha
use heel-toe bro, but just tap n not step

this is y your engine stall.. u need to know y venting out the bov stall your engine.. aftermarket bov have stiffer spring rate then normal bov thus making wat u call earlier as back pressure to your turbo.. picture this, when u closed your throttle the remaining pressurized air in your turbo piping have no where to go accept to vent out trough your bov.. if you using a stiffer bov spring rate (such as aftermarket or even worse racing bov) the bov valve will not open much and will close faster thus not allowing much air to escape trough it.. so the remaining pressurize air will go back to your turbo and pass trough your MAF before escape trough your airfilter.. remember how MAF works.. it sense how much air is passing trough it.. more air pass means more fuel ecu will give.. when u close your throttle your engine actually need the ecu to cut the supply of fuel to the engine.. but in your case the ecu actually give more fuel when u closed your throttle (coz back pressure air passing trough your MAF) thus making your afr super rich n stall your engine.. so by tighten you bov u r making it much worse

 

[[PIMPIN]]

I guess my car is come with MAP setting when I bought. Btw, what is the diff between MAP, MAF and AFM... This is possible to cause stalling but how to determine whether this componet is default?

---------- Post added at 11:23 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:19 AM ----------

Bro, basically my car ran LJetro and later DJetro and I can tell you it doesn't matter provided there is nothing faulty (dirty AFM, faulty plug etc) an aftermarket ECU should have no problems at all. If there were something wrong with the sensors, it should have been noticed when the F-Con was being tuned because your F-Con went in very recently right?



I think this is a way to find out what problem too~ is good to do step by step from cheapest way 1st, I'll ask my mechanic to tighten my BOV, see how is the result.

Blow-off valves usually if you tighten basically you're limiting the amount of air vented. I used to do it myself but that was a GFB blow-off valve. Past 3-4 years I've used HKS but I've never had a reason to even fiddle with it.

dude, eids wont even help.. i had 1 for each MAF, stalling still will occur..
i wish to just fix back my stock blow-in but i like my hks suction kit very much & not planning to fix back d stock airbox..
its a very common prob la bro, if u really wants it to be gone, the highest success rate is to recirculate (blow-in)

anyway, this is type II
http://www.hksusa.com/images_products/L_1161.jpg

There are two types of Type II; don't ask me why but the one you posted came out just months after I got mine.

Aha.. VPro should me MAP..

So like gobiz has said, unless there's leaking sumwher, me think u shud go back to ur tuner.. incomplete tuning me reckon.. :hmmmm:

If there is a leak say blow-off valve anywhere along the piping; wouldn't you notice boost build-up?

Hahaha:-) honestly, I very scare of retune, because I don't know how is my engine condition, later dyno tune engine pecah then I also Susah.... So recirculate better for me. Recirculate still got sound but not loud as direct vent to atmos

If you take your car back to your original tuner; before he runs it on the dyno he will of course check the car to make sure that everything runs fine and there is nothing faulty. Only then would he put the car on the dyno and if he breaks it on the dyno then its not your problem.

The way I see it, if you want to run an external venting blow-off valve, find out what's preventing you from doing so because countless others have no problems. If you recirculate and the problem goes away that means you are ignoring or covering up a problem because with your setup, you shouldn't have to make this compromise.

At the very least try tighten it first before spending more money on new blow-off valves or recirculating fittings.

---------- Post added at 07:11 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:05 PM ----------

this is y your engine stall.. u need to know y venting out the bov stall your engine.. aftermarket bov have stiffer spring rate then normal bov thus making wat u call earlier as back pressure to your turbo.. picture this, when u closed your throttle the remaining pressurized air in your turbo piping have no where to go accept to vent out trough your bov.. if you using a stiffer bov spring rate (such as aftermarket or even worse racing bov) the bov valve will not open much and will close faster thus not allowing much air to escape trough it.. so the remaining pressurize air will go back to your turbo and pass trough your MAF before escape trough your airfilter.. remember how MAF works.. it sense how much air is passing trough it.. more air pass means more fuel ecu will give.. when u close your throttle your engine actually need the ecu to cut the supply of fuel to the engine.. but in your case the ecu actually give more fuel when u closed your throttle (coz back pressure air passing trough your MAF) thus making your afr super rich n stall your engine.. so by tighten you bov u r making it much worse

What he says is correct. If you tighten the blow-off valve to the point that there is no where for the air to escape (remember blow-off valve opens when you take your foot off accelerator therefore the butterfly valve on your throttle body is closed) so it goes back the way it came; unfortunately causing compressor surge which is when your turbo which spins at insane speeds is suddenly forced to spin backwards. Not healthy.

 

[NeniNeniBoBo]

To bnr_32,
I'm confusing now X_x for what I heard if the bov spring is soft will cause too much air blow out, this make no air but your ecu will continue supply more fuel due to previous measure of MAP/MAF and eventually running super rich and stall. If bov close too tight will cause flutter before the bov open.

But now u said tighten the bov will make the air turn back to MAF/MAP which ecu will give signal to supply more fuel and eventually cause super rich... U have your point but which one is correct?

 

[bnr_32]

To bnr_32,
I'm confusing now X_x for what I heard if the bov spring is soft will cause too much air blow out, this make no air but your ecu will continue supply more fuel due to previous measure of MAP/MAF and eventually running super rich and stall. If bov close too tight will cause flutter before the bov open.

But now u said tighten the bov will make the air turn back to MAF/MAP which ecu will give signal to supply more fuel and eventually cause super rich... U have your point but which one is correct?

what i said is in response to what bro lemon_demon says.. i believe that he is still using MAF sensor thats why he is using hks eids to alter the signal of his MAF to prevent his engine from stall.. and my explanation why his engine stall is based on engine thats run on a MAF sensor.. in your case this is not applicable coz your engine run on MAP sensor.. u should be able to vent your bov to atmosphere with out any problem what so ever (please comfirm u are running on MAP or MAF).. thats why i suggested you to go to your tuner n have your v-pro look at.. they can datalog all the engine behavior prior to the engine stall and would immediately found its problem

regarding what you heard about bov spring stiffness sorry but i also confuse what u are trying to say.. the basic function of a bov is to release pressurized air form the turbo piping system when u off throttle and fully closed when you floored your pedal.. thats it.. why u asked? for 2 reason.. 1. like bro pimpin said to prevent surging that will damage a turbo in long term and 2. to prevent like what happen to bro pimpin (kereta merajuk) hose piping tercabut heheh and to prevent oem rubber piping from burst (if you still use the oem rubber intercooler piping laa).. so i dont know how to answer your question on too much air blow out and no more air.. why we change to aftermarket bov? 1. because most modern turbo engine have plastic bov that is not durable (but not engine king rb26 stock bov twin cast aluminium bov hehe).. 2. need a stiffer spring rate and adjustable because like bro pimpin laa boost kaw2 1.8bar daily.. when your bov spring is not stiff enough when you boosting high it may leak at the bov.. we dont want that to happen right bro pimpin? sorry bro pimpin have to use u as example coz u are so glamer hehehhehe

 

[[PIMPIN]]

To bnr_32,
I'm confusing now X_x for what I heard if the bov spring is soft will cause too much air blow out, this make no air but your ecu will continue supply more fuel due to previous measure of MAP/MAF and eventually running super rich and stall. If bov close too tight will cause flutter before the bov open.

But now u said tighten the bov will make the air turn back to MAF/MAP which ecu will give signal to supply more fuel and eventually cause super rich... U have your point but which one is correct?

Bro,

I'm not a mechanic nor am I an engineer so I'm going to explain to you in layman terms the differences between MAP and MAF. Both do they same thing which is basically to let the ECU know how much airflow there is. Too much fuel, runs rich. But how they go about it is different. If you look at the stock setup, you notice that there are two plugs immediately after the air filters. Those are the air flow meters and its from there that the ECU knows how much air flow to expect. But when you change gears and the blow off valve vents, then you end up with a bit too much fuel; in short it'll run rich sometimes causing it to stall.

The MAP sensor reads the air pressure in the manifold and generally people tap into a vacuum hose to get the pressure reading. This info is relayed to ECU; x amount of fuel for x amount of airflow (calculated based on the pressure/boost).

That's about as basic as I can explain it; of course its not detailed and there is a lot more to it and there are pros and cons for each of them which we will save for your next thread.

So going back to the question of the blow-off valve being tight. When you say tight, there are two ways of looking at it. Some blow-off valves you can adjust the 'tightness' meaning how easily the valve opens. Too tight with stock boost might not be enough to open the valve all the way, and the air must end up somewhere. Lose generally means it'll open easier under pressure which of course equals a louder blow off valve sound.

Another way of describing it as being lose is when the blow off valve won't hold the boost anymore. This basically means that the moment you come on boost the valve tends to leak; allowing the air to escape. This you will definitely notice because you will struggle to build up boost. This will affect the MAP reading. But usually if there is any form of leak then you would notice it when you drive. Does the car come on boost like normal?

Anyways, if you suspect that your car is stalling because its running rich a free and easy way is to check your sparkplugs. See if they are fouled.

---------- Post added at 11:07 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:56 PM ----------

1. like bro pimpin said to prevent surging that will damage a turbo in long term and 2. to prevent like what happen to bro pimpin (kereta merajuk) hose piping tercabut heheh and to prevent oem rubber piping from burst (if you still use the oem rubber intercooler piping laa).. so i dont know how to answer your question on too much air blow out and no more air.. why we change to aftermarket bov? 1. because most modern turbo engine have plastic bov that is not durable (but not engine king rb26 stock bov twin cast aluminium bov hehe).. 2. need a stiffer spring rate and adjustable because like bro pimpin laa boost kaw2 1.8bar daily.. when your bov spring is not stiff enough when you boosting high it may leak at the bov.. we dont want that to happen right bro pimpin? sorry bro pimpin have to use u as example coz u are so glamer hehehhehe

 

[NeniNeniBoBo]

Wow~ learn a great lesson from 2 sifu, now I understand ^_^ so the only method to solve my problem is retune my ecu since my car running MAP which after the throttle, recirculate or adjustment of bov is not the main solution because it's only for MAF car~ thanks bro~

 

[[PIMPIN]]

Wow~ learn a great lesson from 2 sifu, now I understand ^_^ so the only method to solve my problem is retune my ecu since my car running MAP which after the throttle, recirculate or adjustment of bov is not the main solution because it's only for MAF car~ thanks bro~

Obviously it's not that simple in terms of how it all works but I did say layman terms. Anyways, I wanted to highlight to you that although the two sensors basically have the same function, they operate in totally different ways. Also, the stalling blow off valve problem is something that is common with cars running AFM. I faced the same thing with my R33.

Having said that, it could well the blow off valve after all because you do realize you're a bunch of guys online many of whom you've never met to fix your car which many of us have never even seen. Which is why I've asked you repeatedly what your tuners view etc is. So rather than prolonging the issue, I think you should seriously consider bringing your car to the tuner and getting it fixed once and for all. Then update us on the outcome so we all learn something new.

Best of luck. Happy boosting.

 

[lemon_demon]

waa, so complicated to finetune the eids actualy ar.. might as well i use a piggyback or such..

 

[bnr_32]

waa, so complicated to finetune the eids actualy ar.. might as well i use a piggyback or such..

not so complicated laa bro.. i'll help you.. pm me your contact number

 

[NeniNeniBoBo]

Still don't have time to bring my car to check. Besides, I realize one thing, which is my MFD show throttle read is 3-4% during idle, have ask few ppl and they said suppose is 0% when idling. Anyone can point me out what is the possibility to cause this happen? Is it related to my stall problem?

 

[[PIMPIN]]

Actually, has this problem been going on for long? When did it start? When did you install the F-Con? Or is it one of those problems that appeared out of nowhere for no reason whatsoever.

As for the throttle reading, does the F-Con have some sort of readout or something. I have no idea cause I've never used your F-Con but with the PowerFC I can check the voltage of various sensors. Does the F-Con allow you to do that?

 

[NeniNeniBoBo]

Actually, has this problem been going on for long? When did it start? When did you install the F-Con? Or is it one of those problems that appeared out of nowhere for no reason whatsoever.

As for the throttle reading, does the F-Con have some sort of readout or something. I have no idea cause I've never used your F-Con but with the PowerFC I can check the voltage of various sensors. Does the F-Con allow you to do that?

Yes, this throttle reading occur when I 1st bought this car, FconVpro is came together with this car too. At 1st i didn't notice until yesterday when I watch youtube "Trial tuning bnr34" only realize the throttle reading should be "0" when idle...... Too bad I can't drive out my car to check because in front of my house having huge excavation for drainage....

 

[[PIMPIN]]

Yes, this throttle reading occur when I 1st bought this car, FconVpro is came together with this car too. At 1st i didn't notice until yesterday when I watch youtube "Trial tuning bnr34" only realize the throttle reading should be "0" when idle...... Too bad I can't drive out my car to check because in front of my house having huge excavation for drainage....

So you bought the car in this condition and so far its never been tuned? Very dangerous game you're playing my friend. Could cost you ten times more in the long run. I've never experienced your problem nor do I run your ECU but apparently you can calibrate the TPS sensor for the MFD. I've never had reason to try it though but if you're keen here's the link:

http://rapidshare.com/files/424648385/R34_mfd.pdf

It's on the last page. I can't tell you if this will work but I've got heaps of PDF documents - manuals etc. You can search since most are online if not I will upload for you.

 

[NeniNeniBoBo]

Thanks bro Pimpin, I just follow "buying a skyline" guide, dint notice the throttle reading.... Anyway, I just did one time mild tune last time, hvt go in any fine tune until now. Thank you so much bro, u help me a lot~

 

[[PIMPIN]]

Thanks bro Pimpin, I just follow "buying a skyline" guide, dint notice the throttle reading.... Anyway, I just did one time mild tune last time, hvt go in any fine tune until now. Thank you so much bro, u help me a lot~

So you bought the car with this problem and since then it's been tuned but the tuner didn't find anything wrong while tuning? What other mods do you have and how much power you making?

What's the car like? Idles ok? How does it come on boost? Etc