Ever tried a simple DIY then causing a major F**K UP! .... Share you stories

  • '(00): currently testing temporary changes to the site and ad serving, sorry for any weirdness experienced, people! Please do send any feedback here: Contact us

parakey

1,000 RPM
Senior Member

parakey

1,000 RPM
Senior Member
Apr 30, 2012
1,367
226
663
Kuala Lumpur
tbh, so long as the camshaft didnt fully lift up. I think you could have completed the job. It's being held down by the timing mechanism, isnt it?
 

lsm1991

1,000 RPM
Senior Member

lsm1991

1,000 RPM
Senior Member
Sep 30, 2011
1,461
182
1,663
PJ
tbh, so long as the camshaft didnt fully lift up. I think you could have completed the job. It's being held down by the timing mechanism, isnt it?
the cam gears are tensioned, and the valve springs should push the cams off abit... should it not?
 

gunnerzz

2,000 RPM

gunnerzz

2,000 RPM
Jul 3, 2014
2,089
684
713
36
Melaka
tbh, so long as the camshaft didnt fully lift up. I think you could have completed the job. It's being held down by the timing mechanism, isnt it?
I dont know..tried again this afternoon and gave up. manage to reinstall the valve cover back. will finish installation tomorrow.

i am guessing the camshaft is tilted and since i did not remove the camshaft sprocket cover, the valve cover must be pushed agaisnt it. I will leave it to those whom are getting paid to do it aka mechanic.
 

gunnerzz

2,000 RPM

gunnerzz

2,000 RPM
Jul 3, 2014
2,089
684
713
36
Melaka
What a ridiculous engine design.
yup, no wonder most mech dont want to operate on this engine.

Other than that, its as reliable as any other engine. This engine has never failed me, the electronis is a different story.

BTW, some Nissan also comes with such engine design thanks to their 'love affair' with Renault.
 

parakey

1,000 RPM
Senior Member

parakey

1,000 RPM
Senior Member
Apr 30, 2012
1,367
226
663
Kuala Lumpur
yup, no wonder most mech dont want to operate on this engine.

Other than that, its as reliable as any other engine. This engine has never failed me, the electronis is a different story.

BTW, some Nissan also comes with such engine design thanks to their 'love affair' with Renault.
Tbh, I dont really understand why they need to route intake above rocker cover. Can route it at the side like other engine designs
 

gunnerzz

2,000 RPM

gunnerzz

2,000 RPM
Jul 3, 2014
2,089
684
713
36
Melaka
Tbh, I dont really understand why they need to route intake above rocker cover. Can route it at the side like other engine designs
maybe they want a compact design. Normal intake takes about 15cm - 20cm length in the engine bay. By running the intake above the engine, they can eliminate the space. However as we can see, it makes maintenance harder.

I just replaced the intake manifold gasket and the PCV gasket.tomorrow i will finish installation. hopes everythings in order. Mileage now is reaching 220k km..should i change the 02 sensor whileI ts easily accessible once the whole intake is off now. Price is RM 150 online.
 

6UE5t

6,000 RPM
Senior Member

6UE5t

6,000 RPM
Senior Member
Oct 8, 2010
6,753
1,298
1,713
Kuala Lumpur
yup, no wonder most mech dont want to operate on this engine.

Other than that, its as reliable as any other engine. This engine has never failed me, the electronis is a different story.

BTW, some Nissan also comes with such engine design thanks to their 'love affair' with Renault.
Ya, like that stupid Livina engine.
 

gunnerzz

2,000 RPM

gunnerzz

2,000 RPM
Jul 3, 2014
2,089
684
713
36
Melaka
These are the intske leading into the engine. The pic is notnclear but No 1 and 2 ( nearest to oil cap ) is kinda dirty with oil from PCV. 3 and 4 is very clean.
IMG_20210104_212222.jpg


Lets see what the intake valve are like. This car got 16 valve and i cant get a pic with 2 valve per cylinder. Below are one of the valves from each cylinder. They are in the same condition;
20210104_212104.jpg

20210104_212110.jpg

20210104_212119.jpg
20210104_212125.jpg

I guess Caltex with Techron does work eh?
 

gunnerzz

2,000 RPM

gunnerzz

2,000 RPM
Jul 3, 2014
2,089
684
713
36
Melaka
Guys,
I just finish DIY replace the arb link and tie rod on my BLM.
When cleaning up i noticed something that strongly suggest i might have f**k up the simple fix.

The tie rod, some car comes with tie rod which have curve in it while some are just a straight piece.
BLM one have curve.When replacing the the tie rod i just removed and re install according to how the original piece ( on the car since i bought the car brand new )is installed. In the BLM case, the curve is facing the rear of the car. After installation is completed and while cleaning up i noticed there is an 'L' and 'R' sign on the tie rod plastic packaging ( i bought one pair and its packed individually ). If i were to follow the L and R based on the marking on the plastic bag then i have installed it terbalik which is opposite the original installation from the factory.

So, did i f**k up or its ok?
Deep down inside i pray very hard its correct as working at night with bad lighting and not having a hydraulic jack is very stressful....
 
  • Like
Reactions: Izso

lsm1991

1,000 RPM
Senior Member

lsm1991

1,000 RPM
Senior Member
Sep 30, 2011
1,461
182
1,663
PJ
Guys,
I just finish DIY replace the arb link and tie rod on my BLM.
When cleaning up i noticed something that strongly suggest i might have f**k up the simple fix.

The tie rod, some car comes with tie rod which have curve in it while some are just a straight piece.
BLM one have curve.When replacing the the tie rod i just removed and re install according to how the original piece ( on the car since i bought the car brand new )is installed. In the BLM case, the curve is facing the rear of the car. After installation is completed and while cleaning up i noticed there is an 'L' and 'R' sign on the tie rod plastic packaging ( i bought one pair and its packed individually ). If i were to follow the L and R based on the marking on the plastic bag then i have installed it terbalik which is opposite the original installation from the factory.

So, did i f**k up or its ok?
Deep down inside i pray very hard its correct as working at night with bad lighting and not having a hydraulic jack is very stressful....
unless theres an obvious design difference... long as doesnt bind i think u will get away with it. at worst maybe the screw adjustment thread is terbalik (maybe)
 

parakey

1,000 RPM
Senior Member

parakey

1,000 RPM
Senior Member
Apr 30, 2012
1,367
226
663
Kuala Lumpur
Guys,
I just finish DIY replace the arb link and tie rod on my BLM.
When cleaning up i noticed something that strongly suggest i might have f**k up the simple fix.

The tie rod, some car comes with tie rod which have curve in it while some are just a straight piece.
BLM one have curve.When replacing the the tie rod i just removed and re install according to how the original piece ( on the car since i bought the car brand new )is installed. In the BLM case, the curve is facing the rear of the car. After installation is completed and while cleaning up i noticed there is an 'L' and 'R' sign on the tie rod plastic packaging ( i bought one pair and its packed individually ). If i were to follow the L and R based on the marking on the plastic bag then i have installed it terbalik which is opposite the original installation from the factory.

So, did i f**k up or its ok?
Deep down inside i pray very hard its correct as working at night with bad lighting and not having a hydraulic jack is very stressful....
You should probably redo it. I dont think they purposely make Left or Right without good reason. Something should be in the way

1639371524293.png
 

gunnerzz

2,000 RPM

gunnerzz

2,000 RPM
Jul 3, 2014
2,089
684
713
36
Melaka
20220501_221228.jpg

Hi guys, Selamat Hari Raya to all Muslim.
Be safe, stay safe this Raya period.

Just to share, a friend of mine called me a week before Raya to pay me as a plumber so i accepted the job. He took the oppoturnity and ask me to drive his wife Viva to try and see whats wrong with it. After a short drive i said there is just too musch wrong with it that selling the car is the best option. Among things i detected;
1.all engine mounting shot
2.auto gearbox slipping
3.either the brake pistons are jammed or the brake pins are, or both
4.front absorber shot
5.noises and freeplay at front end which could be lower arm or tie rod or rack end or absorber or absorber mounting or arb link or worst...all of the above..

After he managed to pursuade me to 'have a look' i took the car last friday and start dismantling. My advice is to replace;
1.lower arm
2.rack end
3.arb link
4.absorber mount
5.absorber + spring
6.caliper pin

How hard can it be right?
To remove the lower arm require the subframe to be dropped slightly and removing nuts and bolts on a car with 620k km mileage is super hard...few bruises and cuts on my knuckle. I do have a work glove but the working area is so oily that i decided not to dirty my still new gloves.
The absorber bolts at the knuckle require pipe extension to be looses, the caliper pins rubber bush broke and stuck in the slider, very tight space to loosen the absorber mount nuts. Ah..i also had to buy a rack end remover and another socket extension.
Btw, parts alone cost just slightly below RM900 not including the additional tools.

Just completed installation last night and the front end feels tighter by a lot. Just need to do allignment and replace a stud at the front left knuckle...bloody tire shop my friend goes to uses impact till the thread stripped.

What do i gain?
Just some cash in term of labour but a lot of experience.So much experience that i wont accept similar job in the future...hahahah.

Now its on to shoppe to find an electric cordless impact or an aircompressor with air impact wrench...hmm...
 

gunnerzz

2,000 RPM

gunnerzz

2,000 RPM
Jul 3, 2014
2,089
684
713
36
Melaka
WhatsApp Image 2022-05-09 at 8.47.09 PM.jpeg

Hi guys,
This sad story is no related to the Kenari. That is a customer car came in for a simple suspension and mounting job.
This story focussed on the wicked angle valve on the bench.
This is a major f** up from me caused by a simple DIY job and neglecting a RM70 part.
Most of you knows i own a 1.8 Waja and last month i DIY replace the power steering sensor/switch as its leaking fluid and drips onto the serpentine belt. Sensor is cheap at below RM100. After changing it, i decided to not replace the serpentine belt yet even thought PS fluid had drips on it. The reason i did not replace it is to see if the new sensor leak. If it doesnt then i will replace it....at least thats what is planned.

After a week and while my brother was driving it...this is what he said thru the phone "kereta ko mati, tak bleh start balik. bila try start bunyik kosong". Towed the car to my preferred shop and did visual inspection but see that the timing belt is still in good shape. After dismantling only that the mech discovered that the serpentine belt disintegrate ( 2 rows of it ) and the pieces made its way to the timing belt pulley at the crank causing the belt to jumped a million tooth. I guess you guys knows the outcome to that. BTW the pic only showed 4/16 bent valve.

Went to check on the car after the mech dismantle the head and thank god we discovered that the piston survive, the head survive, so thus the rod and crank. Trying to make myself feels good i joke with the mech "Ni kalau dah siap macam kereta baru lah kan" but the mech just lough in an evil way.....hahahahaha.

RM70 part caused thousands of RM damage.....Ouch.
 
  • Wow
Reactions: Izso and vr2turbo

brokenjars

Known Member
Senior Member

brokenjars

Known Member
Senior Member
Jun 7, 2012
226
16
1,518
Kedah
View attachment 582339
Hi guys,
This sad story is no related to the Kenari. That is a customer car came in for a simple suspension and mounting job.
This story focussed on the wicked angle valve on the bench.
This is a major f** up from me caused by a simple DIY job and neglecting a RM70 part.
Most of you knows i own a 1.8 Waja and last month i DIY replace the power steering sensor/switch as its leaking fluid and drips onto the serpentine belt. Sensor is cheap at below RM100. After changing it, i decided to not replace the serpentine belt yet even thought PS fluid had drips on it. The reason i did not replace it is to see if the new sensor leak. If it doesnt then i will replace it....at least thats what is planned.

After a week and while my brother was driving it...this is what he said thru the phone "kereta ko mati, tak bleh start balik. bila try start bunyik kosong". Towed the car to my preferred shop and did visual inspection but see that the timing belt is still in good shape. After dismantling only that the mech discovered that the serpentine belt disintegrate ( 2 rows of it ) and the pieces made its way to the timing belt pulley at the crank causing the belt to jumped a million tooth. I guess you guys knows the outcome to that. BTW the pic only showed 4/16 bent valve.

Went to check on the car after the mech dismantle the head and thank god we discovered that the piston survive, the head survive, so thus the rod and crank. Trying to make myself feels good i joke with the mech "Ni kalau dah siap macam kereta baru lah kan" but the mech just lough in an evil way.....hahahahaha.

RM70 part caused thousands of RM damage.....Ouch.
Oh my god...so much damage because of debris from serpentine belt got onto the timing belt pulley..
My serpentine belt disintegrated like yours once due to the belt rubbing my hood. Half of it is gone and it happened on the highway.
I just removed all the debris and continue driving slowly to a mechanic.. if bad luck like you, bye bye my K20A Type R..
Reason its rubbing because I changed engine mounting so a softer mounting, and it cause the belt to rub on the hood when I'm accelerating hard.
So I just potong the inner hood tulang so it won't rub anymore.
 
  • Wow
Reactions: Izso