DIY Voltage Stabilizer

Doesn't seems got much effect after I tried connect my VS to cigarette socket. So I connect it direct to the batt and went for a run in the afternoon. Then I found my VS black plastic casing is very hot to touch that make me feel a bit worry the casing might deform.

Now I connect my VS below the dash. (+)tive to key switch AC on and (-)tive to gnd. With this connection, the blower will remain running for few sec after the key been pulled out. I dunno I'm doing the efficient connection or not.
 
found the spanar...... inside the fender.....

and why my diode not working after charge it won't on amy more should put it parallel or in -ne or +po ?????
 
KHGUAN,

I think u shud slot in the LED at the end of the circuit, ehich means furthest from the place u mark. If u place it just after the Batt, the LED will light up no matter how... even ur cap all kong also...So, the safest place shud be in better the last n second last cap in the circuit. Then, when the cap fails, the LED aslo won;t be functioning.

ahlee :D
 
:angry: aiya,, my reply kena hacked..hav to post ....again

DIY VS FROM TAIWAN>>>> NICE SOLDERING JOB
 
yah.. dat VS looks like a cormmercialized one... do u notice de PCB ? got white lines drawing de outline of de caps... either this is a project kit or aftermarket VS..
 
Reposting (in summarized form :P )...

1. Created circuit as shown below.
2. Compensate 1 Farad capacitor with capacitor bank (total = 27+++µF)
3. Tested on 12v power supply (indoor adapter) - worked fine
4. Tested on car battery - worked fine
5. Started car - worked fine for about 2 minutes
6. Large capacitors (2200µF@16V@85°C) blew up in sequence, one by one
7. All that was left were my 1000µF@16V@105°C capacitors & Mica caps.

My question... WHY!!! :(

Please help... ThanX!
 
Originally posted by GoldenHawk@Jan 31 2005, 09:28
Reposting (in summarized form :P )...

1. Created circuit as shown below.
2. Compensate 1 Farad capacitor with capacitor bank (total = 27+++µF)
3. Tested on 12v power supply (indoor adapter) - worked fine
4. Tested on car battery - worked fine
5. Started car - worked fine for about 2 minutes
6. Large capacitors (2200µF@16V@85°C) blew up in sequence, one by one
7. All that was left were my 1000µF@16V@105°C capacitors & Mica caps.

My question... WHY!!! :(

Please help... ThanX!
I believe it is because of the LED and resistor connection.

Normal LED circuit: You need to connect the positive of the battery to the positive of the LED THEN from the negative of the LED to the Resistor and the Resistor to the negative of the battery. Take note that this is serial connection.

(your circuit will sure to blow because your LED will burn as it is directly connected to the power source and not buffered by the resistor "it is not connected in serial")

However I do not recommend to put led to the VS but if you really want it. You can attached the positive of the LED to the positive of the VS , Then the negative of the LED to the resistor. Then the resistor to the Positive of the Capacitor.

The LED will light up as the capacitor charge up. It will turn off if the capacitor charge is full (Stop charging).

Again "Do it at your own risk". "DIY rule" :) Good Luck.
 
Originally posted by n305er@Jan 31 2005, 08:36
Wah... Wouldn't that costs more then buying a new and branded Voltage Stabalizer??
branded VS from Pivot, u need at least RM200...

DIY with good capasitor, RM50-RM80...

u do the judge...

i rather choose the DIY version and save some money to go for a nice Volt meter and analyse the voltage...

;)
 
GoldenHawk's circuit diagram is wrong with de LED n resistor connection...

here's my circuit diagram.. B)
 
Originally posted by Vincew@Jan 31 2005, 09:49
I believe it is because of the LED and resistor connection.

Normal LED circuit: You need to connect the positive of the battery to the positive of the LED THEN from the negative of the LED to the Resistor and the Resistor to the negative of the battery. Take note that this is serial connection.

(your circuit will sure to blow because your LED will burn as it is directly connected to the power source and not buffered by the resistor "it is not connected in serial")

However I do not recommend to put led to the VS but if you really want it. You can attached the positive of the LED to the positive of the VS , Then the negative of the LED to the resistor. Then the resistor to the Positive of the Capacitor.

The LED will light up as the capacitor charge up. It will turn off if the capacitor charge is full (Stop charging).

Again "Do it at your own risk". "DIY rule" :) Good Luck.
Dude... where did you find the LED in the circuit? :huh:
The closest symbol to a LED's there is the IN4004 diode, used to avoid reverse-current.

Yes, I did attach an LED to the circuit, but it didn't burn AT ALL. Actually, it was one of the few things that survived in the circuit.

Any better ideas? :blink:
 
if dat is a diode.. ur connection is also wrong....

diode is not connect like dat...

n de resistor also cannot connect like dat.... cos it will just bypass some current tru de resistor.. it will eventually heat up n blow.
 
Hi GoldenHawk,
Normally, E-Cap blown off due to:
1) reverse polarity
2) over voltage
Please check the above on your VS.

Btw, since the car's starter motor might deliver high voltage spikes during cranking, therefore for any E-Caps which is direct connected to car battery, it is advisable to use at least 50V rating. Otherwise, the voltage spikes will shorten your VS lifespan.
 
Dude(s)...
If the diagram is wrong, then why did forumer ah lee post it on page 23? :huh:
Well, so much for trusting it at first glance...

So what will be a good circuit to follow? :blink:

BTW, can anyone get their hands on high-capacitance Mica/Polyester capacitors? What kind of price am I looking at?
 

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