Carburetor Section

==! so u mean carburetor win...
1 question, izzit the way of tuning car is all the same?
Btw i used a civic ef2.
 
err..not necessarily carb wins.

what fstrader meant is that irregardless of carb or EFI, horsepower wins.

For example a tricked out weber carbed Saga vs EFI Honda Civic Type R stock

The winner is Civic cuz "there is no replacement for displacement" :burnout:

Similarly, a twin carb Prelude vs EFI Perodua Viva

The winner surely is the Prelude.

Tuning between carb and EFI differs. Whole different ball game :proud:

cheers
 
How about engines of the same capacity?

Say...

Nissan sentra B14's GA16DE vs Nissan AD Resort Y10's GA16DS

If both you go with the N/a route but the B14 EFi uses a single throttle body
and the Y10 is having twin sidedrafts, who wins? :rofl:
 
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really it depends..driver skills aside. Just focus on output.
nissan engines i dunno la bro..
even two of a same engine will have slightly different output and reliability.
Say a 4g15 may be less powerful than another 4g15 ( in stock form)
However, a dcoe 4g15 vs 4g15 EFI ( stock ecu ), winner is obvious la.
But if EFI got standalone or piggy, then different story already.
It all depends on extent of mods..
Bro, you driving Nissan?
 
Haha so clever, yes I am... Slightly modified AD Resort with the ori GA16DS carby.
My car however is giving probs, idling :/, it seems like gonna stall any second man

Current mods on the engine:
1. Full exhaust change (Headers to muffler)
2.Spark Plug Cables (Change 2 weeks ago)

Do you think the spark plug cables cacated the idling?
 
Plug cables brand new, distributor not sure, sparks kinda new...

My dad serviced the car quite a while back but cant remember what sparks he changed :s:

The idling is consistent as in ALL the cylinders are firing, tested by running the engine then remove one by one the spark plug cables but never bothered to remove and check the spark plugs itself haha. Maybe I should check first :rofl:

How do you tell the distributor not working btw?
 
hi..i am a newbie here,,i drive ad resort millenium with ga16ds(carburetored engine),,but after 2 month i've getting tired with my carb problem such as:
1.unstable idling
2.a/c vacum setting
3.car stalling when bracking before turn left at the junction..

or maybe it's just my distributor/cable plug etc

so..i'm thinking about turning to weber dmtl 32/34 as replacement for my oem carb...

if sifus here have any other information regarding my issues,,please give me an advise...

other thing,,where can i find weber carburetor in kl?
 
hi..i am a newbie here,,i drive ad resort millenium with ga16ds(carburetored engine),,but after 2 month i've getting tired with my carb problem such as:
1.unstable idling
2.a/c vacum setting
3.car stalling when bracking before turn left at the junction..

or maybe it's just my distributor/cable plug etc

so..i'm thinking about turning to weber dmtl 32/34 as replacement for my oem carb...

if sifus here have any other information regarding my issues,,please give me an advise...

other thing,,where can i find weber carburetor in kl?

hi there

y u choose that particular carb? its quite rare; parts for it even rarer.

but there a link to it here :biggrin: :
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/engine-and-performance/298184-weber-dmtl-32-34-for-sale.html

it wud be better to find a weber dcnf 36/40, replacement parts are easier to find, more mechanics are familiar with them

normally u would have to look around this forum, or mudah.com.my etc. etc.

nvm, looked for u edi :biggrin:
http://www.mudah.my/Weber-dcnf40-3967766.htm

bear in mind, it wont be hassle free as well, it still requires tuning etc. etc. actually it may be even more difficult, as the carb part sizes (main jets/air correctors/choke) may not be suited to ur engine

actually, i think it is better u try to sort out ur current problems first, rather than trying something new when the engine is facing problems

bkos if u swap ur carb in, and u face issues, u dunno where to pinpoint the source of the problem; too many variables

Cheers!
 
hi there

y u choose that particular carb? its quite rare; parts for it even rarer.

but there a link to it here :biggrin: :
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/engine-and-performance/298184-weber-dmtl-32-34-for-sale.html

it wud be better to find a weber dcnf 36/40, replacement parts are easier to find, more mechanics are familiar with them

normally u would have to look around this forum, or mudah.com.my etc. etc.

nvm, looked for u edi :biggrin:
http://www.mudah.my/Weber-dcnf40-3967766.htm

bear in mind, it wont be hassle free as well, it still requires tuning etc. etc. actually it may be even more difficult, as the carb part sizes (main jets/air correctors/choke) may not be suited to ur engine

actually, i think it is better u try to sort out ur current problems first, rather than trying something new when the engine is facing problems

bkos if u swap ur carb in, and u face issues, u dunno where to pinpoint the source of the problem; too many variables

Cheers!

thanx for the advises bro.....

but my main concern bout my carb now is maybe the a/c vacuum bcos when the a/c is on it seems my car is jerking a bit...i've try many combination of vacuum setting(refer to the rpm meter)..i would like to ask here..what is the exact settinf for the a/c vacuum pump..is it lower or higher than the idle rpm when the a/c is on..?for now my setting is 900(off a/c),1000(on a/c)..950++ hen the engine kick(the radiiator fan blowing)..or maybe there is other option?
 
Apache, if your converting your AD to webers do leave photos, I want to convert mine to sidedraft webers next year also haha, just gotta save money first :rofl:

Oh and good luck in finding the problem, I tak tau anything bout Carbs, come here to learn 1 :thefinger:
 
thanx for the advises bro.....

but my main concern bout my carb now is maybe the a/c vacuum bcos when the a/c is on it seems my car is jerking a bit...i've try many combination of vacuum setting(refer to the rpm meter)..i would like to ask here..what is the exact settinf for the a/c vacuum pump..is it lower or higher than the idle rpm when the a/c is on..?for now my setting is 900(off a/c),1000(on a/c)..950++ hen the engine kick(the radiiator fan blowing)..or maybe there is other option?

not too sure for ur case...for mine i just fiddled around with the vacuum thingy until it was ok haha, sorry not much help lol
 
hi... i got a q... is there any way to repair the water choke in the standard 4g13 carb? my car when the engine is cold the idling is super low... and then when i press d fuel pedal it wont rev up smoothly... feels like d fuel didnt burn smoothly... and black smoke comes out... my mechanic said d choke... but then he cant repair... he said need to change d whole carb... super expensive... huhu...
 
carb is dirty, main jet need to retune again.

send over to me, i charge very cheap...no nid buy another carb.
 
hi, i am driving wira 4G15 carb.

my problem is fc very high .. (i drive my bro wira 4G15 EFI, same driving style, his is fc is low compare to mine)

i afraid the a/f ratio the fuel is too rich. some ppl told me, i can check the spark plug to see whether the fuel is it too rich. but my spark plug is dry and clean.

i told my foreman, my foreman just adjust the idling screw =.=''' (no difference for the fc after tested)

go outside let ppl tune a/f ratio need how much ?
or what should i do ?

thanks.
 

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