Active Setup

[ahmisuhairi]

Audiophiles talking about active setup...

Cifus' advise needed on how to do active setup... I am using CDA 9833, so I think it is easier to do it with built in x/over.

 

[hi1983]

hi, ahmisuhairi, active set up u must have enaugh channel for separte tweeter and midbass, exp, 4channel amp, channel 1,2 for tweeter left right, ch 34 for midbass left right,

than u need a high pass high enaugh, exp, your tweeter hp @ 3500hz @ 18db, than a Band-pass (highpass + low pass) exp, band-pass your midbass at hp 60hz and Lowpass at 3500hz..

so if u have a component infront, u need 4channel amp, and another for sub.

your alpine 9833 nice sounding or not? hehe, i hav change the ECLIpse CD7000..
also run with active setup, MBquart Premium PCE216, tweeter highpass @ 2500hz @ 24db, midbass band pass , hp 65hz 12db, low pass 2500hz @ 18db.
next time come see my car.

 

[hi1983]

hai ahmisuhairi u got your GTI jbl component aready?

 

[hi1983]

hai ahmisuhairi u got your GTI jbl component aready?
how the sounding?

 

[Zenn]

to use the 9833 3-way active crossover u will need 6 channels of amplification for u to run 1 pair of tweeter, 1 pair of mids and 1 sub. frequency and slope settings will depend on the speaker specs itself and then fine tuned to suit your car cabin and speaker locations...

 

[hi1983]

everyone has their own preferences for tuning. some folks like to tune their mids first, some their tweets down. up to you.

I prefer to start with the crossover. I set everything fullrange, and play the drivers one at a time, turning down the cutoff frequencies till it starts to sound dull. that tells me the limits of every driver. then I go with the more conservative setting and set them equal betweet each set of drivers on both sides of the car. the more overlap potential I have, the more options I have when setting the actual usable crossover point in the car.

usually the steeper the slope, the better. But this is also subject to personal preference. shallower slopes integrate speakers together better, but in an envoronment we often separate the drivers far apart, such shallow slopes often create muddy localization and endless phase problems in the actual crossover region. most well tuned cars I sit in run the steepest slope they can get their hands on. Also its important to use the same slope between two drivers (example: tweeter highpass and midrange lowpass). using different slopes also change the rolloff characteristics between the frequency response just above versus just below the cutoff point, and it messes with tonality.

 

[ahmisuhairi]

Hi1983,

Yes, already install GTi608 front. Very good bass but not SQ like others... cant afford to gey hi-end component yet. But Isabelle Boulay's cd sound so good on them (even I never heard other comp play the cd yet).... Well at least I am proud of myself now for can afford to get 9833 even after sometime dreaming of having 1 good HU.... coz limitaion of funds....

Hopefully tomorrow's budget will help me upgrade my system... 2mths bonus will help (hopefully)...

 

[ahmisuhairi]

Zenn,

thanks for the advice. Now I know for active setup I need to amplify all channels. I am using JBL608 component, so do I need to get new tweeters for active setup, or can use the existing one?

What about the wattage for the tweeters? Should I get lower wattage amp for the tweeters?

 

[GRexer]

Actually, the 9833 can run active 2-way for via it's on-board HU, but then again, the 27Wrms doesn't seem to do much :_:

I've tried running my 9833 with the switch at the bottom changed to 3-way, and it's internal amp is affected by the crossover frequency set in the 3-way mode, but it's 27Wrms is way too low to give good midbass anyway. :regular_smile:

 

[Zenn]

Zenn,

thanks for the advice. Now I know for active setup I need to amplify all channels. I am using JBL608 component, so do I need to get new tweeters for active setup, or can use the existing one?

What about the wattage for the tweeters? Should I get lower wattage amp for the tweeters?

just use la, not necessary to change just bcoz u want to play active, later on when u have the budget u can change to a better SQ tweeter. tweeters usually require less power than mids (low rms and high sensitivity), but u can always set your amp to minimum gain if u feel its reaching distortion early. on the HU u can also set the output level for each channel relative to each other..

 

[ahmisuhairi]

Actually, the 9833 can run active 2-way for via it's on-board HU, but then again, the 27Wrms doesn't seem to do much :_:

I've tried running my 9833 with the switch at the bottom changed to 3-way, and it's internal amp is affected by the crossover frequency set in the 3-way mode, but it's 27Wrms is way too low to give good midbass anyway. :regular_smile:

may be its possible if i run active without internal amp.... right?

 

[ISWARA GT-R]

I prefer to start with the crossover. I set everything fullrange, and play the drivers one at a time, turning down the cutoff frequencies till it starts to sound dull.

this method is totally wrong as u're already start to damage the drivers. it suppose to start by putting putting the x-over point to the safe point first. it should start with 3.5kHz for tweets, 80Hz for mid and sub. if not something will burn (specially tweets)

 

[ahmisuhairi]

currently i am using jbl 300.4 and I plan to still use it for active setup. can i juz use it for component system and bridged 2ch for sub. Any suggestion amp for tweeters as some ppl say built in amp not enoughfor the tweets....

 

[ISWARA GT-R]

I would suggest you to stick with the passive setup for the time being. Tune it to the full potential and see how it goes. Later on, get a 2 chn or a monoblock for an active setup. I would suggest the usage of analogue x-over too.

Actually passives setup can perform well if tune properly. FYI, I'm running a passive setup since the beginning and actually compete in IASCA and AMMA with the setup.

 

[Zenn]

currently i am using jbl 300.4 and I plan to still use it for active setup. can i juz use it for component system and bridged 2ch for sub. Any suggestion amp for tweeters as some ppl say built in amp not enoughfor the tweets....

if u only have a 4ch amp then kenot go 3way active la brader, can only do 2way active (between sub & fronts) but the components are still using passive, this is like other common systems. save up to get a strong 2ch or monoblock for your sub or a high end small power 2ch amp for tweet. after u have 6ch of amps then only u can go 3way active...

 

[ahmisuhairi]

Zenn,

I Know, I've Got Some Advice From My fren Too Regarding Ice. Here Is My Plan, Keeping The 4ch And Looking For Good 2ch For The Tweeters. Before This Plan To Use Hu Amp But Ppl Said Its Not Enough. Any Suggestion On Tweeter And 2ch Amp? Do You Know Dls's Ur1 Price? If Too High Thinking To Get Dls T25...

 

[hi1983]

huhu, amisuhairi, my hp got problem these few days.. however info u i don have that tweetes.. will call u later.

 

[ahmisuhairi]

zenn

bro, do u know the price range for DLS's T25 or UR1 tweeter?

 

[Zenn]

not sure lah, dont sell much DLS...

the UR1 is around 300-400 i think, and the t25 is probly less la, 200-300 maybe, not sure lah..

 

[ahmisuhairi]

thanks zenn,

have you tried the dynaudio md100? better from dls or not? but think the price for md100 is higher.