4g15 mod

I'll start by adding bars tomorrow! Or somewhere there. Next step should either be suspension or tyres. Or brakes.
Can I add LSD to Wiras? Something tells me I can't, or its useless because auto.
Also Izso, the list of mods you give, If I want to BOT, can I do it after doing those in the list?
 
I'll start by adding bars tomorrow! Or somewhere there. Next step should either be suspension or tyres. Or brakes.
Can I add LSD to Wiras? Something tells me I can't, or its useless because auto.
Also Izso, the list of mods you give, If I want to BOT, can I do it after doing those in the list?

Change to manual with LSD then......:driver:

If you BOT then all engine mods don't need to do loh! Even extractor no need....:smokin:
 
I'll start by adding bars tomorrow! Or somewhere there. Next step should either be suspension or tyres. Or brakes.
Can I add LSD to Wiras? Something tells me I can't, or its useless because auto.
Also Izso, the list of mods you give, If I want to BOT, can I do it after doing those in the list?

You need to decide. NA or Turbo. Both are different in what needs to be done. My mods are all NA and I did it for reliability and low profile cuz almost nothing was visible even with the hood up. LSD works only with manual. Forget about it with auto and depends on what path you're choosing. With my mods LSD would be useful but not necessary. Turbo might benefit from it more.

And start with the front and rear anti roll bars first.
 
Maybe do half a bar or a bit more lah. :driver: Better change IMO, in case I wanna go bigger in the future. That being said, any ball park price I should expect for BOT?

Sifu Izso have spoken. Better make sure the mods are meant for the path you taking, if not more cost changing them again.
Heard a Waja did 0.4 boost on stock, add thick metal gasket to lower compression, not sure what other stuff he did, but fuel feed need to add, larger injectors, ECU etc.....:driver:
 
GSR pcd 100 or 114 ?
abit confuse..

Doesn't matter. The rotor can use the Wira 1.6/1.8 rotor, the caliper from the GSR fits perfectly.

Sifu Izso have spoken. Better make sure the mods are meant for the path you taking, if not more cost changing them again.
Heard a Waja did 0.4 boost on stock, add thick metal gasket to lower compression, not sure what other stuff he did, but fuel feed need to add, larger injectors, ECU etc.....:driver:

Woi.. apa sifu. There are way more experience Wira modders that aren't posting, like jinkl. The fellas Wira was extreme. Then there was Joeker, that fella DIY lou-mai-kai bowl to use as velocity stack or something. These fellas memang sifu.

Anyway, Turbo and NA, the main difference is the pistons. Using thicker gasket method is a bit risky because you're putting a lot of pressure on those gaskets, probably need to be monitored carefully and the cylinder head best not to skim too much like I suggested.

Both are equally expensive imho. My mods total over the years cost me something like 12k. A properly done up turbo probably will be around the same price.
 
Doesn't matter. The rotor can use the Wira 1.6/1.8 rotor, the caliper from the GSR fits perfectly.

Oh! means the GSR brakes not bigger....:smokin:

---------- Post added at 04:21 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:18 PM ----------

any ball park price I should expect for BOT?

most of Speed Works BOT around RM8k, but that is BOT only, nothing is changed, so probably around 12k or more if need internal upgrading
 
use Nissan S14/S15 4pot better.

It... Fits? I've never thought of it as well. Though, I think GSR's are a bit cheaper?

Doesn't matter. The rotor can use the Wira 1.6/1.8 rotor, the caliper from the GSR fits perfectly.



Woi.. apa sifu. There are way more experience Wira modders that aren't posting, like jinkl. The fellas Wira was extreme. Then there was Joeker, that fella DIY lou-mai-kai bowl to use as velocity stack or something. These fellas memang sifu.

Anyway, Turbo and NA, the main difference is the pistons. Using thicker gasket method is a bit risky because you're putting a lot of pressure on those gaskets, probably need to be monitored carefully and the cylinder head best not to skim too much like I suggested.

Both are equally expensive imho. My mods total over the years cost me something like 12k. A properly done up turbo probably will be around the same price.

To me consider sifu liao. Heh.
Back on topic, so basically if I were to go BOT then I should be strengthening the internals instead of thinning the walls of my block right?

Oh! means the GSR brakes not bigger....:smokin:

---------- Post added at 04:21 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:18 PM ----------



most of Speed Works BOT around RM8k, but that is BOT only, nothing is changed, so probably around 12k or more if need internal upgrading

4k of internal upgrading and then 8k of BOT? Dang that's not cheap either. Is the power yield is more than NA?
 
if u not decide yet which route u gonna take either na or turbo better mod ur handling n chasis 1st..
while u at that then decide na or turbo..from there mod slowly but effectively base on ur need..dont mod the thing that u feel sufficent for u need..example its no use to use longer ratio gearbox if u barely hit the top speed like that..if really want to taste the glory of ur 4g15 maintain it 1st change wear n tear upgrade the worn or rosak part with better part..get to know ur engine better..then u know ur car better like bro izso did..
if money not an issue for u..better throw everything u got at it once and for all base on all the opinion given here..
 
if u not decide yet which route u gonna take either na or turbo better mod ur handling n chasis 1st..
while u at that then decide na or turbo..from there mod slowly but effectively base on ur need..dont mod the thing that u feel sufficent for u need..example its no use to use longer ratio gearbox if u barely hit the top speed like that..if really want to taste the glory of ur 4g15 maintain it 1st change wear n tear upgrade the worn or rosak part with better part..get to know ur engine better..then u know ur car better like bro izso did..
if money not an issue for u..better throw everything u got at it once and for all base on all the opinion given here..

That's pretty much my plan for now, going for handling first. Is it recommended that I get the whole set of bars for rigidity?
 
use Nissan S14/S15 4pot better.

Not PNP la. The custom job to get the bracket done will cost more than the GSR brakes.
Oh! means the GSR brakes not bigger....:smokin:
most of Speed Works BOT around RM8k, but that is BOT only, nothing is changed, so probably around 12k or more if need internal upgrading

GSR pistons are larger than the Wira 1.8 ones. The caliper itself isn't that much bigger, but the piston is bigger. More surface area to clamp down on those brake pads man. Makes a helluva difference!

And yeah, personally I don't recommend BOT. BOT leaves too much to chance.

It... Fits? I've never thought of it as well. Though, I think GSR's are a bit cheaper?

No it doesn't. Need a custom bracket to hold the caliper in place - meaning you need custom work done to fit them.

Back on topic, so basically if I were to go BOT then I should be strengthening the internals instead of thinning the walls of my block right?

BOT = bolt on turbo. Meaning you don't touch your internals and all. Use stock then just slap on a turbo with minor mods like oil return line and all. If you go all out, I'd rather you change the pistons to low compression types (perhaps oversize too), fit new cylinder liners to cope with the extra power, possibly consider forged connecting rods (conrods) just in case. If you go the forged piston and conrod path, I saw in PeterJ's evo thread, it'll set you back about 3k-4k. The liner if you go for the decently good one, about 800. Then there's the discussion about port and polishing (PNP) the head, a strong and good quality head gasket, etc. Lots to consider, and that's all before you even consider what turbo to use, turbo manifold, intercooler, pipings, engine management, etc.

4k of internal upgrading and then 8k of BOT? Dang that's not cheap either. Is the power yield is more than NA?

Are you kidding? They call turbo "fake displacement" for good reason. The kick you'll get from turbo cannot be beaten by NA. The only thing is how good your tuner is. NA will have low end torque (actually depends on how you setup your car too) more than turbo. But turbo will win in the mid-to-high power range for sure. Unless perhaps you want to consider supercharging. That's low end torque all the way which probably is more practical. But mods is similar to turbo, perhaps slightly cheaper.

That's pretty much my plan for now, going for handling first. Is it recommended that I get the whole set of bars for rigidity?

Nah. If I were you, I'd go slow. This month buy the front GSR 23mm ARB then feel how that changes the cars handling. Next month UR 19mm rear ARB then feel again. Then slowly add bit by bit. If you just suddenly throw everything in you won't be able to appreciate what each bar does.
 
Thanks for all the input Izso!
Not sure if I'm getting all the bars at once, but, like I asked, do I really need the whole bunch?

I was talking to a friend regarding BOT and brakes yesterday too. And it dawned on me that GSR brakes would probably be more expensive to maintain because of rarity, not forgetting that the turbo itself would cost quite a bit.
 
Nah. If I were you, I'd go slow. This month buy the front GSR 23mm ARB then feel how that changes the cars handling. Next month UR 19mm rear ARB then feel again. Then slowly add bit by bit. If you just suddenly throw everything in you won't be able to appreciate what each bar does.

agreed with izso..install one feel the different 1st..if no different come here discuss..maybe that mod not for u..make u appreciate better the mod u done..
 
Thanks for all the input Izso!
Not sure if I'm getting all the bars at once, but, like I asked, do I really need the whole bunch?

I was talking to a friend regarding BOT and brakes yesterday too. And it dawned on me that GSR brakes would probably be more expensive to maintain because of rarity, not forgetting that the turbo itself would cost quite a bit.

Any serious mod, either BOT or NA will cost a lot.......:driver:
 
the Nissan 4pot calipers + disc costs bout rm350, bracket fabrication from rm350-450.
 
so what have you done to ur engine now actually? what mods have u did?

1) 4g18 cranks are useless if the person putting it in dunno what he's doing. FYI, my 1.5 auto last time can follow manual with g18 cranks built. So, it actually depends on drivers.

2) do simple builts and simple pnps, do not burden yourself with non consistency of your engine at a later part.

3) start with suspension and chasis tweaks.

4) meddle with ignition and timing first.

5) if you are on semens, then good luck...as not much u can do with that ecu.
 

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