IK20 or IK22

bro caleb, so if in the cold morning I need 2 use more time to warm up my engine if I'm using IK22?
What is the advantages using IK22 compare to IK20? U said that IK20 cannot tahan more heat compare to IK22 right? So can u pls give me some example related to performance on this statement? Sorry if i asking noob question. I saw some forum a guy sold off his IK22 cuz he claimed that it's too cold? I m using BT anyway. TQ

the advantage on using an IK22 then IK20 is that it won't make ur engine knocking.for example IK20 can tahan a temperature of 30c if above 30c then the sparkplug will overheated and spark the air fuel. the spark is not cause by electricity flowing from the distributor.IK22 can tahan a temperature of 30c until 40c for example.

---------- Post added at 01:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:19 AM ----------

Engine knocking - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

is better u do some research on ENGINE KNOCKING,PRE IGNITION, DETONATION..all those article will explain better...
 
I suggest go NGK or Denso website.TRD plugs(denso) are about I26 to I30 for high revving and heavily modded engines.If u fluff the start u gotta remove plugs and wipe dry before you can restart.The higher the range the 'colder' the plug which means it can dissipate heat faster from the combustion chamber.NGK claims one number higher is equal to about 100 degrees C difference(less) in chamber temp keeping in mind optimum is about 700-800 degrees C(in chamber)
 

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20V stock engine BT/SVT = IK20 or BKR6EIS
20V modded engine BT/SVT = IK22 or BKR7EIS
heavily modded engine can use higher like IK24...
 
Bro i said IK20L Suitable for B16B not toyota 20V black top nor Silver top!
thanks
 
Guys, I'm currently using IK20 on stock BT but higher compression abit with TRD 0.8mm metal gasket. Previously with stock gasket no knocking whatsoever, but with metal gasket experiencing some knocking. Perhaps it would be better to install IK22 instead? What you guys suggest?
 
so that mean compression ratio does effect with igniter heat range? sifu pls teach, nice subject to learn la...
 
heat will increase during compression, so if increase compression the amount of heat generated in the combustion chamber increases thus increase the chances of detonation. this heat will cause pre-ignition(actual term) where spark produce not by the plug itself.
few options to play:-
- plug heat range, up 1 point... still depending on the ratio increase
- add more fuel... can cool down the chamber abit
- fuel ron... if normally using ron95 then try ron97 otherwise need to add octane booster
- increase IG timing... to compensate the actual spark against spark created by the compression process

roughly that explain it... good luck...:proud:

coz all this can be google up... if you're into technical, browse the forum...
http://www.gofastnews.com/
 
- increase IG timing... to compensate the actual spark against spark created by the compression process

Seriously bro... increasing IG timing will cause more knocking, wouldn't it? Cause previously i was running higher than 10°, knocking is quite noticeable, but after retard to exactly 10°, its lesser a bit, but still got knocking. Means i had to use emanage to trim the timings in areas where it knocked. So basically it defeats the purpose of me having the emanage to retard timing as I should be increasing the timing with emanage for NA setup.

So seeing that I don't have adjustable FPR and using IK20 on higher compression, I think I will give a try with IK22 and see how it goes. Will update on the findings later.
 
heat will increase during compression, so if increase compression the amount of heat generated in the combustion chamber increases thus increase the chances of detonation. this heat will cause pre-ignition(actual term) where spark produce not by the plug itself.
few options to play:-
- plug heat range, up 1 point... still depending on the ratio increase
- add more fuel... can cool down the chamber abit
- fuel ron... if normally using ron95 then try ron97 otherwise need to add octane booster
- increase IG timing... to compensate the actual spark against spark created by the compression process

roughly that explain it... good luck...:proud:

coz all this can be google up... if you're into technical, browse the forum...
http://www.gofastnews.com/

sorry... should have write 're-tune' instead...
fuh, one of the reason I seldom contribute to people questions...:stupid:
 
reviving old thread;

between ik 20 and ik22, + normal ecu;

a) no tuning to ignition timing?
b) only feel up to 'kaki'?

appreciate sifu's feedback

Kind Regards,
 
reviving old thread;

between ik 20 and ik22, + normal ecu;

a) no tuning to ignition timing?
b) only feel up to 'kaki'?

appreciate sifu's feedback

Kind Regards,
20 equivalent to 6 heat range, 22 is 7 which is colder. What heat range do you require?
 
Dear Sifo's;

Its heat range 6 = bkr6eix

and the most important info;

How to check, the NGK igniter OEM or counterfeit product?

Kind regards
 
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