Power Capacitor

riz2005

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there is many type of this item.. 2farad, 2.5f, 1f etc. but do we need to know how many watt is suitable. bcoz i had seen advertise 2farad capacitor with 200watt. is that true.
 
The power caps function is to stabilize car voltage, like normal VS,
but it's specialty is for power amp's current supply.

So, if your amp is about to produce loud "thump"(bass boomin) it'll drain a lot of current from your car, the power caps step in to stabilize the insufficient current.

Practically how many farads for your amp wattage still depends on your car alternator's max current.
Higher alt current, may use less power cap (of course more is better la)
Lower, vice versa.

one more thing though, if the farad too high...
it'll burnt your fuse once you start your car... it "eats" first start's current...
becoz if the power cap's charge is empty, the first charge current (while you start ur car) is nearer to infinity.....
so, becarefull when you choose your power caps.
This also can be settle with proper wiring and safety relays properly assembled.
 
if buy so high farad one, in the end all your car is doing is charging the capacitor only, but the power inside isnt utilised. despite all manufacturer's marketing strategies, this item is not "more is better".
 
So, i does have their pros and cons....
more farad will make your ICE better.. but will drain your car electrical supply
If gila2 ICE mod can la use these "gila" farads...
drop la car performance.

It depends on the individual needs.
eg. me just used a simple DIY caps for my VS to stabilize my car voltage...
at the same time improve cars sound system.

my ICE small one only a 120W monoblock for one 12" sub....
caps.... accumulated around 45mF = 45,000uF and standard alt.
SQ is satisfying, not great, but still satisfying.
 
he must be using the baby caps then...
 
TQ all my friend.. refer to cybtech..

one more thing though, if the farad too high...
it'll burnt your fuse once you start your car... it "eats" first start's current...
becoz if the power cap's charge is empty, the first charge current (while you start ur car) is nearer to infinity.....
so, becarefull when you choose your power caps.
This also can be settle with proper wiring and safety relays properly assembl

which fuse will burn at first start.. i tot the cap will charge in when we connet the cap terminal to batt terminal.. and the current still on the cap even engine is not running. about pro and cons.. i think it will help the for long lifetime batt and of course improving sound quality especially bass sound.
correct me if i'm wrong
 
what is mf? micro farad? Isn't that same as uF. 45mf is very small.

mf?? is motherf**ker....:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

brother...brother... i tought you all gone through school....
"m" is mili, so 45 mili farad (mF) is 45000 micro farad (uF).....

i wrote this.... didn't read???
"45mF = 45,000uF and standard alt"
 
TQ all my friend.. refer to cybtech..

one more thing though, if the farad too high...
it'll burnt your fuse once you start your car... it "eats" first start's current...
becoz if the power cap's charge is empty, the first charge current (while you start ur car) is nearer to infinity.....
so, becarefull when you choose your power caps.
This also can be settle with proper wiring and safety relays properly assembl

which fuse will burn at first start.. i tot the cap will charge in when we connet the cap terminal to batt terminal.. and the current still on the cap even engine is not running. about pro and cons.. i think it will help the for long lifetime batt and of course improving sound quality especially bass sound.
correct me if i'm wrong


what you've mention is correct (about "long lifetime batt and of course improving sound quality") for ICE.

As i said... depends with the wiring.
If you amp and your power cap is wired direct to batt, the car will have the benefit but as long as don turn on the ICE when you want to start you car.
BUT in the other hand... when you change your car batt (when khong) it'll have a huge spark once u 1st connect your batt, that may cause ur power cap fuse to burnt. To avoid this is to install a safety relay between it.
 
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mf?? is motherf**ker....:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

brother...brother... i tought you all gone through school....
"m" is mili, so 45 mili farad (mF) is 45000 micro farad (uF).....

i wrote this.... didn't read???
"45mF = 45,000uF and standard alt"

huaaa... didnt wash ur mouth b4 u talk ga? how come so smelly geh...:thefinger:
 
don't take it seriously..... it just a joke....
here... we always refer mf is motherf**ker....
bcoz here alot.... hahaha......can't stand those buggers...

so, 1st come to mind when mf is that lo....
 
So, i does have their pros and cons....
more farad will make your ICE better.. but will drain your car electrical supply
If gila2 ICE mod can la use these "gila" farads...
drop la car performance.

It depends on the individual needs.
eg. me just used a simple DIY caps for my VS to stabilize my car voltage...
at the same time improve cars sound system.

my ICE small one only a 120W monoblock for one 12" sub....
caps.... accumulated around 45mF = 45,000uF and standard alt.
SQ is satisfying, not great, but still satisfying.

Mahaguru cybtech

after reading thru all your fantastic knowledge about ice and electronic lectures, what's your ice setup? Must be super fantastic sq since you are berry berry good in electronic and ice stuff, right? :thefinger:

btw do you mind we all here audit your ice, becos it seem quite a long time never heard anyone here mention about their "SQ is satisfying" ?
 
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ooo i see. yes, it will happen (spark) when we connet at the batt terminal.. as i saw on my VS already. that mean we need to discharge it first before connet it again to batt. it's the safe way.

as i seen on cap, there have 2 white screw its look like volume adjuster.. i'm sure about that.. what is function that
 
Mahaguru cybtech

after reading thru all your fantastic knowledge about ice and electronic lectures, what's your ice setup? Must be super fantastic sq since you are berry berry good in electronic and ice stuff, right? :thefinger:

btw do you mind we all here audit your ice, becos it seem quite a long time never heard anyone here mention about their "SQ is satisfying" ?

my setup.... not even good....
all using 2nd hand stuffs and china speakers....
only thing is new is HU and wires. My amp also salvage form a junkyard and manage to repair it myself. All these... DIY it to my car... Handwork/wiring quality... bad... But after all is done.... can work... so "satisfying" only loh

as you can see here... i'm not that great in ICE (infect also poor and stingy)... but electrical electronic knowledge for it so-so due to my AV engineer experiences, so why not share it out.

Here you can point to me where is wrong.... i'll accept it if i'm really wrong, but if i'm sure it's right... i'll never stop supporting my concept. (lansi horr)
I was the bzbody in class last time... never stop asking till i understand.
 
ooo i see. yes, it will happen (spark) when we connet at the batt terminal.. as i saw on my VS already. that mean we need to discharge it first before connet it again to batt. it's the safe way.

not exactly, infect you need to precharge it before you connect the batt terminals... this won eliminate the spark/high current but it'll minimize it..
safer loh...
it's to charge the cap only with a different power source then connect it into your car or etc.

another safe way is slow charge...
when you first connect to batt, put a resistor between cap and batt... this also minimize the spark/current also... leave for a few minuets then take out that resistor and connect direct to batt. a bit lecheh... this way safer for your Cap and internal electric/electronic parts.
resistor value, u can use around below 100ohms to 10ohms 5W...

ONE MAJOR SAFETY TIP, DO NOT TERBALIKAN THE CAP POLARITY AND CAR'S POWER SUPPLY/BATT's POLARITY.... the CAP MAY EXPLODE!!!

as i seen on cap, there have 2 white screw its look like volume adjuster.. i'm sure about that.. what is function that
That you refering to i think it's the voltage adjuster, to fine tune the output voltage (to amp or etc)
 
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my setup.... not even good....
all using 2nd hand stuffs and china speakers....
only thing is new is HU and wires. My amp also salvage form a junkyard and manage to repair it myself. All these... DIY it to my car... Handwork/wiring quality... bad... But after all is done.... can work... so "satisfying" only loh

as you can see here... i'm not that great in ICE (infect also poor and stingy)... but electrical electronic knowledge for it so-so due to my AV engineer experiences, so why not share it out.

Here you can point to me where is wrong.... i'll accept it if i'm really wrong, but if i'm sure it's right... i'll never stop supporting my concept. (lansi horr)
I was the bzbody in class last time... never stop asking till i understand.

okla like tat I say you wrongloh,since you say 2nd hand stuffs and china stuffs not good! A lot of reputable ice are from China. Good or not the sq still depend on "the ear" benchmark. Like a malay saying 'belum dengar belum tau,sudah dengar hari hari mau" muahahahahaha :thefinger:

Electronic only play a small part,the rest is tuning,then here you go back to "the ear" benchmark, ya u can use all kind of gadget to measure the distortion but at the end of the day whether you like the sq is another question. Don't listen to me as I m oni a newbie with limited ice knowledge. :thefinger:
 
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okla like tat I say you wrongloh,since you say 2nd hand stuffs and china stuffs not good! A lot of reputable ice are from China. Good or not the sq still depend on "the ear" benchmark. Like a malay saying 'belum dengar belum tau,sudah dengar hari hari mau" muahahahahaha :thefinger:

Electronic only play a small part,the rest is tuning,then here you go back to "the ear" benchmark, ya u can use all kind of gadget to measure the distortion but at the end of the day whether you like the sq is another question. Don't listen to me as I m oni a newbie with limited ice knowledge. :thefinger:

well tohsan, i respect your desision, not all china stuffs ar not good...
infect now most of the branded items are now producing in china.
My statment is my hand work is not good. all 50sen quality. and plus my efford to do so that make my ICE works. thats all
 
mf?? is motherf**ker....:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

brother...brother... i tought you all gone through school....
"m" is mili, so 45 mili farad (mF) is 45000 micro farad (uF).....

i wrote this.... didn't read???
"45mF = 45,000uF and standard alt"


i tot 1000 micro farad = 1 farad
and 100 mili farad = 1 farad....?

or was it 100,000 microfarad = 1 farad, hehe cant remember la...
 

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