Wire Tuck Question

[ace79]

A quick question : Can a wire tuck process be done with the engine inside, or is it a better idea to remove the whole engine out?

 

[hattech-v]

better if u take out the engine first. i just did it. hehe

 

[avantasia]

alot of of work need to be done!!!! need a lot of patience

may be hattech can elaborate more!!! miaa haa haaaa

 

[ace79]

Wooohhh...complete engine bay wire tuck, or complete engine bay wire tuck + complete dashboard re-wiring? Got pictures ( of full engine bay, detailed pics etc )? Boleh tgk live ke abg Mie......Mau tgk live hafta drive down Seri Kembangan is it? I drive down there, u belanja me mee goreng mamak and teh ais, can? And let me take detailed pics oso....?

better if u take out the engine first. i just did it. hehe

 

[ace79]

Hhhmmm...looks like the consensus is : remove engine. I'm a bit afraid to do this myself because I have ZERO ( I repeat, ZEROOOOOOOOO!!!!! ) knowledge in electrical and wiring stuffs. And no, I'm sure as hell dunno how to read electrical diagrams oso...sh!t...

But, at least I have access to a workshop, and it's only 5 seconds away from my opis. So, at least, can take my time lah ( but maybe not too long lah! ). How long will it take for me to :

- remove engine ( this I think I can ask the mechs to do this for me so a small fee ),
- remove both front fenders and front bumper,
- remove and catalog all wiring,
- replace wiring ( I need help here, not sure what grade of wiring to buy, AWG 18 ka, 20 ka? Then also some wiring must be "shielded", what's that? How is it done? )
- replace some or all connectors to diff spec,
- do wiring work ( includes changing connectors, shrink - tube, catalog, labelling wires etc ),
- refit engine,
- test that everything is working,
- refit both front fenders, front bumper and front bonnet?

alot of of work need to be done!!!! need a lot of patience

may be hattech can elaborate more!!! miaa haa haaaa

 

[shiroitenshi]

better if u take out the engine first. i just did it. hehe

How did you wire it? Through the inside fenders, or you went under the chassis?

I'm thinking of doing the fender sides, but have to enlarge some of the holes.. (O_o)

So didn't do yet. Still finishing up my tar removal thing.. removing everything down to the caulking.. so far about 70% already.. just a bit more.. maybe a week or so of work.

Current weight at the rear removed is 4kg+.. but that's without the remaining bits stuck on the boot area., that one I simply scrape of with wire brush and thinner and they're not weighted.. so if you add the residue + the carpet liners, that's near 2kg as well. Those tar bits are heavier than you think.

One guy did an EK hatch here including the floorpan and easily removed more than 10kgs.. Naturally he hired someone to do it, so it was a lot lot faster than mine.

ACE79, there a lot of different techniques to achieve the wire tuck look.. kinda depends on skill and willing-ness.

One method includes cutting the harness for shorter lengths for just the right fit. That's the most extreme, and one I'm not willing to do either. The other simply is about rerouting the wires underneath the chassis, using the same wire clips, mounted elsewhere.

The looms are an optional thing.. If you're on the extreme side, you can try it.. although I've tried looming before on a computer, and well.. IT's TOO MUCH WORK!! :P

Do note that the wire tuck look only works when you clean up the mounts (means no random metal piece mount) for some of your other parts like the fuel filter, fuel regulator, alarm and other random addon parts.

 

[hattech-v]

i'm using adapter... now running using wireless... can tune using 3g...

 

[avantasia]

wireless???? he he heh

 

[shiroitenshi]

cipets.. ppl ask seriously, he give something else pulak.. (T_T)

serious ah mie, you did the wire tuck?

 

[avantasia]

in progress!!! nothing inside his engine bay except for clutch pump n brake pump!!!

 

[ace79]

Well, I'm actually thinking of doing a whole new set of engine bay wiring, that's right : replacing 'em whole lot! I know this is not going to be easy, but I suppose, with the help of a engine bay wiring diagram ( yeah, I dunno how to read em properly, but my old man's a full - fledge engineer, he can help me out ), and perhaps, a sample wiring ( now does that means I should go and get myself a complete B16A OBD1 engine wiring set from the chopshops? ) will assist me greatly as well. This is because I do not think that the all that wires in my engine bay is OEM anymore lah, well, over 10 year old car, what do u expect?

Now after spending a total of almost 24 hours reading up a multitude of threads at Honda-Tech, I think the safest way for me to go and do this on my own requires :

- a complete EG6 B16A OBD1 wiring diagram
- a complete B16A OBD1 engine bay wire set ( complete with the ones for lights, radiator, aircon etc )

This is because I can take my own sweet time doing it, and the car still runs the way it is now. When I feel that I have the basic knowledge and balls to do the job, I'll start off with new wires ( dunno whether AWG 18 or AWG 20 ), new plugs and connectors ( those nifty round - shape connectors is cool ), crimping tools ( this I have to go for Molex lah, more money, but safer, and the crimping work should be 100% good ), new relays and either premade, or own custom made brackets for the relays.

I want to go for custom length wires ( so that it'll be just nice, with an extra 3 - 5 inches length for extra play, especially when the engine is moving under high RPM shifting, or when I have to change mounting points ), so that means, a lot of measuring work is required lah. I also want to tab and catalog each wires so it'll be easier for troubleshooting works.

Should I tackle the wiring mess behind my dashboard too?

Yeah, I would love to go the whole hog ( seal up all those holes in the engine bay, change to new inline fuel filter etc ) but that's for another day, maybe when I feel that the car is complete enough for a full inside - out paintjob, Glasurit Type HS grade paintwork lah.

But I have read a lot about engine bay refinishing, that they do not use Bondo ( because it's too stiff, doesn't flex a bit therefore the Bondo-ed areas will crack! ), but they use US Chemicals Icing. This stuff is claimed by a lot of H-T's engine bay pro's to be slightly flexible, doesn't crack under flex and heat, and gobbles up primer just fine too. I'm not sure whether this stuff is available here, maybe have to go to those super - dope hardware shops ( or super - dope vehicle refinish shop ) and see whether they have this or not. I'm not sure whether there is something similar like this available here though.

And another thing, what I found out in most of H-T's engine bay work is :

- wires for enigne is runs from underneath the car ( maybe around the crossmember kot? ).
- wires for lights and radiator fan runs thru the inner fenders. Some engine - related wires might also be run thru the inner fenders too.

How did you wire it? Through the inside fenders, or you went under the chassis?

I'm thinking of doing the fender sides, but have to enlarge some of the holes.. (O_o)


ace79, there a lot of different techniques to achieve the wire tuck look.. kinda depends on skill and willing-ness.

One method includes cutting the harness for shorter lengths for just the right fit. That's the most extreme, and one I'm not willing to do either. The other simply is about rerouting the wires underneath the chassis, using the same wire clips, mounted elsewhere.

The looms are an optional thing.. If you're on the extreme side, you can try it.. although I've tried looming before on a computer, and well.. IT's TOO MUCH WORK!! :P

Do note that the wire tuck look only works when you clean up the mounts (means no random metal piece mount) for some of your other parts like the fuel filter, fuel regulator, alarm and other random addon parts.

 

[ace79]

Ek'eleeeeeeeee.........I thought he oledi got it done, as he posted earlier, cheh!

in progress!!! nothing inside his engine bay except for clutch pump n brake pump!!!

 

[ace79]

Now, where can I get a complete EG6 B16A OBD1 wiring diagram? Also location of connectors and pics of connectors too?

 

[avantasia]

u can contact mie for that diagram, as u know he always keep that thing!!!

 

[ace79]

Abe Mieeee...................B16A OBD1 ka? PDF format ka?

u can contact mie for that diagram, as u know he always keep that thing!!!

 

[hattech-v]

dun have laa...

 

[shiroitenshi]

I have the schematics for an VTEC engine wiring.. but it's for the CRX B16A.. I think it's an OBD-0 system. However, I think it's rather similar, so maybe is of use to you. After all, it's pretty much the same labels for the parts, with no explicit pictures of connectors.

I'll post here and you tell me if it's useful or not.

Edit... too lazy to screenshot all of it.. here is an online version
http://downloads.hondatech.info/Aut...Workshop Manual (include VTEC supplement).zip

 

[ace79]

Wahhh....bloody lagginf Streamyx, 13.9 kb/sec, it'll be a while bfr I get to see it. Well, at least I can learn from what goes to what etc 1st.

 

[ace79]

I think I oledi got this one. Oh well, looks like I hafta spent time reading 'em up! Anyway thnaks for the help Shiro!

 

[shiroitenshi]

sure ah? This one has the VTEC supplement, unlike some of them that don't.
So it includes some of the wiring diagrams for a B16A engine.

The inside interior, you can check the normal D-series EG manual.. they're the same as stock, only the engine area harness is different.

Edit:

From what you say, I think it'd be cheaper and easier to simply buy another EG harness, and mod the one in your engine based on the harness you bought. It's also a backup in case you 'screw' up.

If you want photoes of how americans do it, I have a mag that illustrates it, but even to me, that kind of mod is really too extreme and risky.

As for cataloging and labelling wires.. forget it, you best keep it in on paper or something. All honda wires are properly colour coded, so once you list them out, I think you can find them easily.

Anything that's paper material in the engine usually disintegrates under heat and water.