- Joined
- Jul 11, 2006
- Messages
- 2,770
- Points
- 1,648
use ACL or King bearings? hehe
what I know is my friend use ACL new bearing nearly all burn off after back from dyno

Dont know why also
use ACL or King bearings? hehe
dang.. maybe the bearing clearance not checked properly or oil starvation?what I know is my friend use ACL new bearing nearly all burn off after back from dyno
Dont know why also
maybe since ask him he said the engine not yet smooth after refurbish the internal to new parts.dang.. maybe the bearing clearance not checked properly or oil starvation?
So he knew the engine wasnt in good condition and yet he went for dyno?maybe since ask him he said the engine not yet smooth after refurbish the internal to new parts.
piston ring also nearly boiled
really dont know d.. maybe he thought all new internal is ok to go for dyno? before send to dyno he already thinking is there any problem since engine just running 300km and he also scared that engine will blown is didn't got for dyno..So he knew the engine wasnt in good condition and yet he went for dyno?
I believe it is just a case of badly build engine, did his mech measure the bearing clearance with plastigauge? there are too many variables, could be rod cap bolt failure as most people reuse them instead of replacing them.
not to make your friend look bad, just stating the truth, many foreman can maintain and overhaul an engine, the sad fact is not even a handful can properly build an engine to spec. many dont measure and spec engines individually which i also understand that it take up too much time.he is a foreman actually, he said all internal are new that he also feel wired how come like that..
he ask his friend to drive for dyno and that fellow had elephant leg..
maybe his elephant leg fried off the bearing cant imagine from sunway to botanic klang less 15 minutes at afternoon, really dont know how fast he drive![]()
Regardless of elephant leg or not, dyno is stressful for the engine. So that shouldn't matter. If he ask the friend for a favor, then he shouldn't blame him.he ask his friend to drive for dyno and that fellow had elephant leg..
well he did not blame anyone just sad in heart and pocket...Regardless of elephant leg or not, dyno is stressful for the engine. So that shouldn't matter. If he ask the friend for a favor, then he shouldn't blame him.
What he saidI believe it is just a case of badly build engine.
what I know is my friend use ACL new bearing nearly all burn off after back from dyno
Dont know why also
probably clearance..if oil starvation bearing bleh pusing iinm..hahaha
.should have run in more or atleast change EO before going dyno.
my engine recently being rebuild and pampered my car to drive below 4k rpm for first 500km. Then did EO change, it was soo black. another 500km still on mineral oil but drive normally but most of the time i try to drive high rpm where possible. After 500km+ another EO change but this time i pour in my preferred EO. Then went on to dyno. No problem.
Another quick way is run in on dyno but need to pay extra for the additional hour(s) spend.
not to make your friend look bad, just stating the truth, many foreman can maintain and overhaul an engine, the sad fact is not even a handful can properly build an engine to spec. many dont measure and spec engines individually which i also understand that it take up too much time.
heck even the place im going couldn't do that, and GT auto/ AHM dont even use a sterile engine room. it is quite stressful to see my engine being build in a workshop common area and no full blueprinting and documentation. but oh well, i can't afford 5 figures labour, i get what i paid for. hahaha
ya, i also think not many people can able to proper build engine that can follow original factory spec.
but you say the place you are going couldnt do that, then how you make sure that your engine spec is correct? you dont care and just drive after you fix or you got way to check? i am also interested to know how to make sure engine is build following to spec
Another quick way is run in on dyno but need to pay extra for the additional hour(s) spend.
walao.. so brave go dyno sumore. hahahamaybe since ask him he said the engine not yet smooth after refurbish the internal to new parts.
piston ring also nearly boiled
most mech dont have time to go through all that. and our mechs dont get paid by the hour. also, good workshop always have damn long queue... need to set appointment date just to send in your car. that is if the slot not full until end of the year. hahahahathey can do up to factory spec, just that i will be there to help out and keep and eye on the process, to make sure every steps (i read in tech article) are done properly.
There are a bit of engineering going on with a built engine, have to figure out and solve it, cut a bit here and there, send this and that to machine shop to get it sorted and fit, figuring hose routing and things, calculating actual compression ratio vs theoretical compression ratio, information gathering such as emailing to ARP for further consultation on their studs, bolts and whatsnot's yield and stretch specs, should i use more torque than factory, all those small details la.
Common thing people dont really care is you cannot stretch your studs too many times/too much, have to shim/deshim your oil pump to get optimal pressure (pressure =/= flow), how to clean stuff up properly, make sure no metal flakes residue (apply to a blown engine), your piston ring gap to application.
Even cylinder bore cross hatch will affect your oil consumption
they can do up to factory spec, just that i will be there to help out and keep and eye on the process, to make sure every steps (i read in tech article) are done properly.
There are a bit of engineering going on with a built engine, have to figure out and solve it, cut a bit here and there, send this and that to machine shop to get it sorted and fit, figuring hose routing and things, calculating actual compression ratio vs theoretical compression ratio, information gathering such as emailing to ARP for further consultation on their studs, bolts and whatsnot's yield and stretch specs, should i use more torque than factory, all those small details la.
Common thing people dont really care is you cannot stretch your studs too many times/too much, have to shim/deshim your oil pump to get optimal pressure (pressure =/= flow), how to clean stuff up properly, make sure no metal flakes residue (apply to a blown engine), your piston ring gap to application.
Even cylinder bore cross hatch will affect your oil consumption
exactly, that's the sad thing, even if i wanted to pay for it, no one is available to do to such level. It is either the skills level, time or pay.most mech dont have time to go through all that. and our mechs dont get paid by the hour. also, good workshop always have damn long queue... need to set appointment date just to send in your car. that is if the slot not full until end of the year. hahahaha
non that i know of, even the most professional workshop i know of, do not practice what most professional engine builder do. you can go youtube and watch High Performance Academy for more example of how in-depth they can go into just to build an engine.thank you for telling out. it looks very professional to do all of this things here but im not sure what workshop is willing to do all this work.
you know a lot of details things on engine building. are you a engineer or mechanic?