Wira fitting Satria GTi front bumper and spacers

[RENESIS VIII]

Scare go out of topic, not because you are TS...
Okay, we take that as a fitting to the Wira also...hahahaha
Offset from +35 should start to make your wheel come out. Of course if you want to come further out then use +30 or smaller number offset, if you can find.
Advantage is it will be more stable, better center of gravity, for looks depends on individual.
However with the tyres popping out from the wheel arch, you are likely to scrub your tyres on the fender. With the wheels further out, there is stress on your wheel bearings too.
Likewise if you use spacers you will have the same problem. But spacers have more cons. If the spacers are without the center cone positioning tyre vibrations will set in. If spacers are too thick, you need to mod the lugs to longer ones. There are also adapter type spacers but again stress on the bearings...

Haha, usually scared out of topic because it might confuse the TS. But since this is asked by TS, should be okay?

Okay, now I start to understand a bit about the pros and cons of offset. But the numerical part I am still not certain yet.

Spacers are something like this?
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/chassis-and-wheels/439621-js-racing-original-wheel-spacers-fd2r.html

Located at the inside of the wheel?

 

[Kopi]

the problem with using aftermarket bodyparts, FIBER or 'PU', 95% chance the kits you buy off the shelf from shops, they just don't get symmetrical with stock bodyparts and leave weird gaps. Not only that, you can't compromise with paintwork as fiber or PU parts have to be fully coated wth cement compound first before applying undercoat, and then paintjob - which won't allow you to do layang paintjob. For 1-2yrs maybe still ok layang job... but sure later the hue of the paint on these fiber/PU parts fades.

I thought aftermarket bodykitting is not the 'black' anymore - sleepers are?

 

[Izso]

Haha, usually scared out of topic because it might confuse the TS. But since this is asked by TS, should be okay?

Okay, now I start to understand a bit about the pros and cons of offset. But the numerical part I am still not certain yet.

Spacers are something like this?
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/chassis-and-wheels/439621-js-racing-original-wheel-spacers-fd2r.html

Located at the inside of the wheel?

It's not about whether or not you're the TS, it's about others reading the topic, then going into your thread only to be blasted with shitloads of irrelevant information.

So I've updated your topic to reflect correct information.

Regarding spacers, it puts a lot of stress on the lugs. All depends on how thick your spacer is and what the design is. If your spacer has its own lugs then those are better but make sure you get good ones. I've broken a few lugs in my time using spacers and deep dish rims. No fun. Oh and forget about lightweight lugnuts. Get the heavy duty steel ones that lock down tight. Aluminum not gonna cut it.

 

[RENESIS VIII]

It's not about whether or not you're the TS, it's about others reading the topic, then going into your thread only to be blasted with shitloads of irrelevant information.

So I've updated your topic to reflect correct information.

Regarding spacers, it puts a lot of stress on the lugs. All depends on how thick your spacer is and what the design is. If your spacer has its own lugs then those are better but make sure you get good ones. I've broken a few lugs in my time using spacers and deep dish rims. No fun. Oh and forget about lightweight lugnuts. Get the heavy duty steel ones that lock down tight. Aluminum not gonna cut it.

Alright. Sorry for being off topic earlier.

But spacer is not necessary needed in offset setup right? Broken lugs can be dangerous...

 

[ken yeang]

the problem with using aftermarket bodyparts, FIBER or 'PU', 95% chance the kits you buy off the shelf from shops, they just don't get symmetrical with stock bodyparts and leave weird gaps. Not only that, you can't compromise with paintwork as fiber or PU parts have to be fully coated wth cement compound first before applying undercoat, and then paintjob - which won't allow you to do layang paintjob. For 1-2yrs maybe still ok layang job... but sure later the hue of the paint on these fiber/PU parts fades.

I thought aftermarket bodykitting is not the 'black' anymore - sleepers are?

the main problem of local made bodypart from fibre is the fitting. I saw a couple of bodypart maker in Sungai Buloh that have been re-use, re-use and re-use their mold until they went out of shape.

When the mold outta shape, of course the reproduction oso outta shape.

Normally, the mold should be thrown away after so and so many pulls. Malaysia businessmen pulak used the mold until kingdom come...

 

[RENESIS VIII]

the main problem of local made bodypart from fibre is the fitting. I saw a couple of bodypart maker in Sungai Buloh that have been re-use, re-use and re-use their mold until they went out of shape.

When the mold outta shape, of course the reproduction oso outta shape.

Normally, the mold should be thrown away after so and so many pulls. Malaysia businessmen pulak used the mold until kingdom come...

What to do, no quality control. This is the reason why it is better to buy original parts from reputable companies like those from Japan. Fitting cheap parts into a car can affect it's performance and it can also endanger your life if something bad happens halfway when you are driving.

 

[Supra_Fanatics]

Custom made is best

 

[vr2turbo]

Haha, usually scared out of topic because it might confuse the TS. But since this is asked by TS, should be okay?

Okay, now I start to understand a bit about the pros and cons of offset. But the numerical part I am still not certain yet.

Spacers are something like this?
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/chassis-and-wheels/439621-js-racing-original-wheel-spacers-fd2r.html

Located at the inside of the wheel?

These are adapter type spacers. These are use in the event you need to offset a lot and the original lugs are not long enough so these are use. First they are lock to the original lugs and the rims are locked to the adapter lugs.
These also can be use to change the PCD. For example your lugs are PCD 100 and you have rims with PCD 114.3, so you can use these to change the PCD.
Can also use to change from 4 lugs to 5 lugs. All depends on what you want done.
But the cons are these adapter spacer will be very thick, of course unless you really want the rims to come out more...

---------- Post added at 10:53 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:50 AM ----------

It's not about whether or not you're the TS, it's about others reading the topic, then going into your thread only to be blasted with shitloads of irrelevant information.

So I've updated your topic to reflect correct information.

Regarding spacers, it puts a lot of stress on the lugs. All depends on how thick your spacer is and what the design is. If your spacer has its own lugs then those are better but make sure you get good ones. I've broken a few lugs in my time using spacers and deep dish rims. No fun. Oh and forget about lightweight lugnuts. Get the heavy duty steel ones that lock down tight. Aluminum not gonna cut it.

Yup, with the wheels further out, it stresses the lugs and even the wheel bearings

 

[ken yeang]

but the ppl driving offset wheel cars dont care about stressing the bearing and lugs.
They only care about the kangkang look.

**How I wish to see the driver's face when he scrap their rims on the road kerb**.

 

[slipar]

Yup, with the wheels further out, it stresses the lugs and even the wheel bearings

how bout the suspension..also stresses or not..turning radius also effected right

 

[ken yeang]

suspension setup oso out.....because the suspension geometry lari....

All gaya, but no usefulness, i guess.

 

[RENESIS VIII]

These are adapter type spacers. These are use in the event you need to offset a lot and the original lugs are not long enough so these are use. First they are lock to the original lugs and the rims are locked to the adapter lugs.
These also can be use to change the PCD. For example your lugs are PCD 100 and you have rims with PCD 114.3, so you can use these to change the PCD.
Can also use to change from 4 lugs to 5 lugs. All depends on what you want done.
But the cons are these adapter spacer will be very thick, of course unless you really want the rims to come out more...

---------- Post added at 10:53 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:50 AM ----------



Yup, with the wheels further out, it stresses the lugs and even the wheel bearings

Means, spacer is needed for offset? Don't use spacer can? And those what they call 8jj is tyre or wheel/rim?

but the ppl driving offset wheel cars dont care about stressing the bearing and lugs.
They only care about the kangkang look.

**How I wish to see the driver's face when he scrap their rims on the road kerb**.

Offset looks good though... Those who play around with camber and hellaflush will scrape their cars even more.

 

[slipar]

Means, spacer is needed for offset? Don't use spacer can? And those what they call 8jj is tyre or wheel/rim?



Offset looks good though... Those who play around with camber and hellaflush will scrape their cars even more.

avoid spacer if possible..for wira offset 35 max out already n need to ketuk fender..i think today rim sell at tyre shop offset measurement not 100% correct..those overly wide rim like 8jj on 15" must have small offset if not sure sangkut inside wheel house n it sure come out some more..

 

[ken yeang]

Another reason why offset wheels are so popular is becoz of cheap taiwanese knock-off rims.
Below RM1000, can get wide ass rim now.

Everyone can own TE37 like nobody business. Nobody bat an eye when they see TE37 today.

 

[vr2turbo]

Means, spacer is needed for offset? Don't use spacer can? And those what they call 8jj is tyre or wheel/rim?

Means you did not digest my earlier postings....haha
I mention earlier as far as possible not to use spacers, get the correct offset rims.
As mentioned by bro. slipar and also I mentioned earlier +35 for wira already the tyres will scrub the rear wheel fender, Any smaller number offset will bring the wheels further out.

 

[RENESIS VIII]

Means you did not digest my earlier postings....haha
I mention earlier as far as possible not to use spacers, get the correct offset rims.
As mentioned by bro. slipar and also I mentioned earlier +35 for wira already the tyres will scrub the rear wheel fender, Any smaller number offset will bring the wheels further out.

Sorry for that. Just that I'm still confused.

So, for offset, the lower the number, the further the wheels will come out. Just as reference, our normal tyres setup is usually what number?

 

[vr2turbo]

Sorry for that. Just that I'm still confused.

So, for offset, the lower the number, the further the wheels will come out. Just as reference, our normal tyres setup is usually what number?

Should be 45 to 55 but depends on the car make also, and this is for FWD. RWD can have 0 offset, or even minus because their hub is set further in

 

[RENESIS VIII]

Should be 45 to 55 but depends on the car make also, and this is for FWD. RWD can have 0 offset, or even minus because their hub is set further in

Eh, 0? That is way more than the max limit for Wira where you say max is 35.

 

[vr2turbo]

Eh, 0? That is way more than the max limit for Wira where you say max is 35.

Yup, for RWD. Want them to come out use minus as in -10, -20 and so on....

 

[Izso]

Oh one other thing with spacers. You run the risk of wobbling at high speeds if engineered badly