B18C non type r~

i thought more fuel efficient is burn less fuel. burn less fuel mean power and torque may be drop...lol:driver:

I also thought the same. So, I asked my tuner not to tune my car more towards FC but he said when he tunes for me, he will take FC and power/torque into consideration. Meaning balanced between that two.
 
Ahhaha..more fuel efficient would be more power from same amount of fuel lah

yea... but then even though still either power increase and fuel increase abit or power loss and fuel save abit... lol...

---------- Post added at 10:11 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:10 PM ----------

but seriously guys. B18C from DC2 can plug and play into EG9 engine bay? the type of integra which 2 big eyes in front
 
Hehe, an engine is never going to be 100% efficient i.e you're never gonna get all the energy from the fuel+air mixture turn into power at the wheels, some of it is wasted into something else. So let say your engine's efficiency at 60%. You put in 10, you get 6. Getting it to be more fuel efficient would mean the engine's efficiency is increased to 65%. So, instead of 6, you get 6.5, while still putting in 10. Same amount of fuel, more power.
 
its a direct plug and play, dont worry abt it. any b-series will fit nicely into an EG, EK or DC.

as for power/performance - AD_EG has already answered. he is a proud owner of that engine and his gsr > type r's
 
its a direct plug and play, dont worry abt it. any b-series will fit nicely into an EG, EK or DC.

as for power/performance - AD_EG has already answered. he is a proud owner of that engine and his gsr > type r's

i thought the cheapest B series was B16A , but then halfcut shop boss told me B18C is cheaper.... it is true?:confused:
 
well, to be honest. B16A should be the cheapest. However, due to the ever increasing demand, sellers/suppliers raise the price. It's now around 8k-ish (correct me if im wrong). I bought mine at 6.5k with heaps of goodies.

So at 8k-ish, you can get a b18c GSR (MANUAL). Its around that price. Your halfcut dealer said cheaper cuz he offered you b18c GSR auto. Auto goes for around 5.5k-6.5k-ish. Converting it to manual will take approx 2.5k-3.5k or so. So it'll come back to the original b18c GSR manual halfcut price. I'd say its a gimmick cuz eventually u WILL convert to manual. This is can guarantee.
 
well, to be honest. B16A should be the cheapest. However, due to the ever increasing demand, sellers/suppliers raise the price. It's now around 8k-ish (correct me if im wrong). I bought mine at 6.5k with heaps of goodies.

So at 8k-ish, you can get a b18c GSR (MANUAL). Its around that price. Your halfcut dealer said cheaper cuz he offered you b18c GSR auto. Auto goes for around 5.5k-6.5k-ish. Converting it to manual will take approx 2.5k-3.5k or so. So it'll come back to the original b18c GSR manual halfcut price. I'd say its a gimmick cuz eventually u WILL convert to manual. This is can guarantee.

the B18C GSR was ori manual, that's why im kind of curious.... anyway, its better for me to transplant faster before the price goreng like hell!!!
 
i've been daily driven the stock OBD1 p72 manual b18c gsr engine in ek 4 doors almost 2 years now. It's a combination of highway and city road and all i can say it's a good engine with good fc thanks to its longer tranny. The down side by using the gsr tranny covered up with the higher torque number the b18c produced compare to b16a engine which have shorter tranny. I don't have the exact fc no. but i would say the fc is quite the same with 1.6liter sohc vtec auto previously in my engine bay with much much more power :biggrin:
 
Actually, we would all be surprised with the FC you get with B series engines. It's very fuel efficient. I once got about 11.5km/l city driving and about 13.3km/l highway driving and mine is a B20B. I reckon B16's and B18's should be better.

It mainly depends on how we drive.
 
yeah i guess but i could be wrong also. But if the thread starter question is if the b18c gsr is a good engine with a good fc then my answer is yes and you have a good foundation for upgrading in the future. My car currently in the process of rebuilding..i'm trying to hit 200whp mark with 1.8liter.
 
yup. i agree with u. my car b18c with skunk2 cams compression 11.3. full tank rm70+++. Can go 400km (mix jam + highway). ron95 make the car real sluggish. but what to do....ron97 expensive ma...by the time i finished upgrade my car from b16a to b18c suddenly there was ron95. damn!!!!
 
yup. i agree with u. my car b18c with skunk2 cams compression 11.3. full tank rm70+++. Can go 400km (mix jam + highway). ron95 make the car real sluggish. but what to do....ron97 expensive ma...by the time i finished upgrade my car from b16a to b18c suddenly there was ron95. damn!!!!

the car sluggish with ron 95 is cause due to high compression? knocking?
 
Regardless of what engine you change, you still need to get it endorsed even if B16A to B16A because engine number is not the same. Engine number must match with engine number on grant. If you don't want to endorse, can also. You need to re-emboss (not sure if this is the right word) your actual engine number onto your new engine. This way, you can use 1.8L and still pay 1.6L road tax. The downside if JPJ or Puspakom happen to really check your engine number, then you are in trouble. But word is that it is not easy for them to find out unless they use some kind of chemical.
 
Regardless of what engine you change, you still need to get it endorsed even if B16A to B16A because engine number is not the same. Engine number must match with engine number on grant. If you don't want to endorse, can also. You need to re-emboss (not sure if this is the right word) your actual engine number onto your new engine. This way, you can use 1.8L and still pay 1.6L road tax. The downside if JPJ or Puspakom happen to really check your engine number, then you are in trouble. But word is that it is not easy for them to find out unless they use some kind of chemical.

means if i wanna safe on road tax i transplant a B16A first then later future only upgrade to B18C block? it is plug and play? if i dont endorse also nvm la? just if they dont stop and open my bonnet right?
 
How come the post I replied to is missing? Or did I post at the wrong thread?

I mean this post:

Regardless of what engine you change, you still need to get it endorsed even if B16A to B16A because engine number is not the same. Engine number must match with engine number on grant. If you don't want to endorse, can also. You need to re-emboss (not sure if this is the right word) your actual engine number onto your new engine. This way, you can use 1.8L and still pay 1.6L road tax. The downside if JPJ or Puspakom happen to really check your engine number, then you are in trouble. But word is that it is not easy for them to find out unless they use some kind of chemical.

I posted this because you were saying that if you transplant a B16, you don't have to endorse and stuff like that. Where is that post? Haha.

Anyway, if I were you, I'll just go for the B18C GSR straight away and re-emboss your current B16 engine number. Unless you want to use a B16 head instead of a B18C GSR. The only difference between these two are the compression and header choice i think. Iirc, the B18C GSR has higher compression but limited header choice as compared to B16.
 
How come the post I replied to is missing? Or did I post at the wrong thread?

I mean this post:



I posted this because you were saying that if you transplant a B16, you don't have to endorse and stuff like that. Where is that post? Haha.

Anyway, if I were you, I'll just go for the B18C GSR straight away and re-emboss your current B16 engine number. Unless you want to use a B16 head instead of a B18C GSR. The only difference between these two are the compression and header choice i think. Iirc, the B18C GSR has higher compression but limited header choice as compared to B16.

then GSR can pump ron 95? limited header? the extractor part? exhaust system?
 
yup....higher compression higher RON. if you look closely to every car specs you will notice every new car compression is 10 or below. turbo cars like peogeot, vw, merc all 10 compression. but for type r all is 11 and above. GSR is below 11. some honda tuners make 14. at the end he sell his car coz he need to pour in RON99. where you gonna find this????

it sad that malaysia forcing us to use RON95. i heard the goverment said RON97 for those who have expensive cars. so rich people should use RON97. but the problem is expensive cars can use RON95.So rich people become richer...

i'll bet this year honda tuners will think twice before the upgrade their car to type r. for those have plenty of money that is a different story...

i'll also heard that if you have HONDATA all knocking problem can be solved. this i'm not to sure.

---------- Post added at 09:12 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:05 AM ----------

dear mr ddv nk12, i think its not wise to not endorse your engine coz you break the law. so better kept it low. its very dangerous if you try to cheat the law. remember if you get caught u will loose ur car.
 

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