*Idle Problem*Do you encounter this?

[bnr_32]

Still don't have time to bring my car to check. Besides, I realize one thing, which is my MFD show throttle read is 3-4% during idle, have ask few ppl and they said suppose is 0% when idling. Anyone can point me out what is the possibility to cause this happen? Is it related to my stall problem?

yes this might be your problem.. one of tps (throttle position sensor) function is for idle speed control (ecu need to know 0% throttle = idling).. not too sure bout rb26 from bnr34 (i think should be the same laa.. bnr34 owner with pfc please look at your commander n comfirm this tq) but on bnr32 and bcnr33 rb26 the tps give approx. 0.5v when 0% throttle (accelerator pedal not pressed) and approx. 4v when 100% throttle (accelerator fully pressed).. so u need to get a multimeter and measure the voltage signal of your tps.. locate your tps sensor and you'll find there is 3 wires.. it should be 1 wire is for sensor ground.. 1 wire will give constant 5v to sensor.. and 1 more wire is the signal from the tps to the ecu and this is what u should check whether it send the right voltage when throttle fully closed and fully open.. if its not sending the right voltage then u need to loosen the sensor screw n rotate the sensor until u get 0.5v when the throttle is fully closed.. then hit the pedal so the thrrottle is fully open and measure back u should get approx. 4v.. try this method 1st and see whether your mfd reads 0% after that.. mfd is just a display what needs synchronization 1st is between sensor and ecu

 

[[PIMPIN]]

yes this might be your problem.. one of tps (throttle position sensor) function is for idle speed control (ecu need to know 0% throttle = idling).. not too sure bout rb26 from bnr34 (i think should be the same laa.. bnr34 owner with pfc please look at your commander n comfirm this tq) but on bnr32 and bcnr33 rb26 the tps give approx. 0.5v when 0% throttle (accelerator pedal not pressed) and approx. 4v when 100% throttle (accelerator fully pressed).. so u need to get a multimeter and measure the voltage signal of your tps.. locate your tps sensor and you'll find there is 3 wires.. it should be 1 wire is for sensor ground.. 1 wire will give constant 5v to sensor.. and 1 more wire is the signal from the tps to the ecu and this is what u should check whether it send the right voltage when throttle fully closed and fully open.. if its not sending the right voltage then u need to loosen the sensor screw n rotate the sensor until u get 0.5v when the throttle is fully closed.. then hit the pedal so the thrrottle is fully open and measure back u should get approx. 4v.. try this method 1st and see whether your mfd reads 0% after that.. mfd is just a display what needs synchronization 1st is between sensor and ecu

For me the PFC sensor reading under the ETC menu is where I'd start but he's using F-Con for which I have no idea how to use, whether there is a CAMP display etc. Surely there has to be a way for him to retrieve that sort of info electronically; if the PFC which is cheaper does this why not the HKS.

Your solution is by far the most accurate way of diagnosing the TPS but from what I gather these past few pages, it might be a bit too technical for him to attempt by himself and for some reason he won't take the car to a workshop. It's like talking to someone on the phone while trying to guess the color of their underwear - pure guessing game.

 

[[PIMPIN]]

Enjoy.

http://rapidshare.com/files/424714941/R34_MFD.pdf
http://rapidshare.com/files/424714739/Nissan_Skyline_R34_Specifications.pdf
http://rapidshare.com/files/424714947/The_Sky_is_the_Limit.pdf
http://rapidshare.com/files/424718559/Apexi_PowerFC_FAQ.pdf
http://rapidshare.com/files/424719967/Nissan_R34_Service_Supplement_Manual.pdf
http://rapidshare.com/files/424720135/Nissan_R32_GTR_Manual.pdf
http://rapidshare.com/files/424720441/Nissan_R33_Engine_Service_Manual.pdf
http://rapidshare.com/files/424720446/Nissan_R32_Engine_Service_Manual.pdf
http://rapidshare.com/files/424720483/Nissan_R34_Service_Manual.pdf

 

[bnr_32]

For me the PFC sensor reading under the ETC menu is where I'd start but he's using F-Con for which I have no idea how to use, whether there is a CAMP display etc. Surely there has to be a way for him to retrieve that sort of info electronically; if the PFC which is cheaper does this why not the HKS.

Your solution is by far the most accurate way of diagnosing the TPS but from what I gather these past few pages, it might be a bit too technical for him to attempt by himself and for some reason he won't take the car to a workshop. It's like talking to someone on the phone while trying to guess the color of their underwear - pure guessing game.

let me guess.. today bro pimpin underwear is black rite??? cabuttttttttttttt!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[[PIMPIN]]

let me guess.. today bro pimpin underwear is black rite??? cabuttttttttttttt!!!!!!!!!!!!

Who said PIMPIN even owns underwear LOL.

 

[NeniNeniBoBo]

Sorry for late update about my case. The problem now is finally solved.

1st, they check the TPS, due to me MFD show 2-3% when idle, he adjust the TPS to make it 0% but fail, then he swap to new TPS and check the fully close/open throttle voltage, MFD show 0% after new TPS installed.

We tot problem solve, but its turn worst. Car can't even start UNTIL he adjust the AAC idle screw. Then the car go through a ECU tuning(because of new 700cc injector, nismo fuel pump, fuel filter is installed). The car now is so smooth and so far never stalling once, rev indicator never fluctuate.

At here I have a question, although my car now is very smooth and dint stall when idle. But I encounter 1 minor problem is my car difficult to start ONLY when after the car is warm and off for some period like 20-30 minutes. I need to give some gas then the problem gone.

However, The car is easy to start during:
- cold start and
- after car is warm and off for very short period like refill petrol(5-7mins)

Anyone have this problem? This problem dint effect the car when cruising(very smooth now), just difficult to start the engine. Anyone can give some comment?

My personal silly thinking: will the 700cc injector still flow out little amount of fuel when engine off and cause the car difficult to start?

 

[kaminari]

Glad to hear that! ...Anyway what is your spark plug heat range?

 

[NeniNeniBoBo]

Glad to hear that! ...Anyway what is your spark plug heat range?

Thanks Tom, lucky last time I bought new TPS from u~ Erm... I'm using this spark plug from HKS, is a M series iridium(50003-M40i), I saw this reading "8番", is it the heat range?

 

[lemon_demon]

haha.. mine have to step on the pedal each time i start, no matter warm or cold! could live with it n i accept it as spices of life.. hope will be solved after install power fc

 

[kaminari]

Yup it`s heat range....8 consider cold, try use lower heat range. OEM is 6, but 7 should be fine for
boost up car.

 

[NeniNeniBoBo]

haha.. mine have to step on the pedal each time i start, no matter warm or cold! could live with it n i accept it as spices of life.. hope will be solved after install power fc[/
I don't like my car like this.... Will change my spark plug to '6' or '7' heat range and see how ^_^

---------- Post added at 03:16 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:12 PM ----------

Yup it`s heat range....8 consider cold, try use lower heat range. OEM is 6, but 7 should be fine for
boost up car.

Thank you so much Tom~ will swap to '7' and see how~ hehehe:-)

 

[farizio]

even nismo recommends 7 for the spark plugs (which is included in the 'Sports Resetting' package)

 

[owtaman]

I have idling issue on my ECR33-S2, RB25DET, it fluctuate but does not stall.

Recently I replaced no.2 and no.4 ignition coils and I see the biggest improvement since all the other things I have done to fix this idling issue.

 

[SUJAAR AR RACING]

MR NENI .. PLEASE TELL ME WHERE DID U TUNING YOUR CAR ....change your tps for idling problem..thz