Vios to Altezza

Mar 28, 2020
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Hi to all altezza sifus and members :hello:,

I'm planning to join the big boys of the toyota family with an Auto one (RS200) around 30k. Though im earning around 3k myr with no obligations. So, planning to get it by selling off my Vios (Gen 1) G spec and personal loan top-up.

From my understanding of the altezza bible from sifu AE111GT, the maintenance are almost same compared to my Vios (oil filter, gearbox oil, iridium plugs, etc.). Except, it needs 5 Litre Full-syn engine oil change and timing belt change. While my oil change are done in Dtox with 4 litre and timing chain. Also, I always budget my petrol RM 100 a week and travel 50km (Two-way travel) a day to work.
So, if the maintenance are around the same, i was thinking of upgrading to this lovely car :driver:...

Except i noticed Tezza has a 60 litre fuel tank clocking 400 - 500km, while my Vios clocks 400km+ (45 Litre). Secondly, Wear and tear parts such as the Suspension set-up (D. Wishbones), Absorbers, Bushing, are 500% more costly compared to vios.

Just an opinion from you all:
1) Do these Wear and tear parts of this car spoil VERY often?? like say 1 to 2 years gone case?
2) Any more things too look out when owning a Tezza (RWD) as compared with a vios (FWD)?
3) Rear differential oil change expensive?
4) G2 and G4 got alot difference in terms of performance?
5) Is it reasonable to get this car based on my situation?

Sorry if its a long post and alot questions. but i've been desiring to get one since i saw one in Puchong (TRD bodykit). I hope any sifu or advisers can give me a good opinion.. I'm looking for a fun daily and reliable ride. Thanks all. :adore:

P.S. Newbie here and first time posting in a forum. Sorry if i violate any thread rules. PM me if i do :confused:
 
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brokenjars

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brokenjars

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As with all old cars, there will be some wear and tear. So prepare some cash to replace the worn parts. As usual, change all the lubricants and liquids just in case. And you might have to wait for parts during downtime meaning no car for few days when parts do break down since this car is quite rare.
However toyota is quite reliable la. Previously owned the smaller brother, toyota SEG AE101 with 20v blacktop engine, 6mt gearbox. And as expected, I kena chopped/cheated by mechanics along the way since I'm naive and knows nuts in the beginner. But its worth it for me.
 

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Agree with bro. brokenjars, as older car will have more wear ans tear, so not sure what other parts may need repair/replace in the near future. Maintenance like oil and filter almost the same with most car, even my turbo 4G63T just change oil and filter only.....
 

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Izso

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Hi to all altezza sifus and members :hello:,

I'm planning to join the big boys of the toyota family with an Auto one (RS200) around 30k. Though im earning around 3k myr with no obligations. So, planning to get it by selling off my Vios (Gen 1) G spec and personal loan top-up.

From my understanding of the altezza bible from sifu AE111GT, the maintenance are almost same compared to my Vios (oil filter, gearbox oil, iridium plugs, etc.). Except, it needs 5 Litre Full-syn engine oil change and timing belt change. While my oil change are done in Dtox with 4 litre and timing chain. Also, I always budget my petrol RM 100 a week and travel 50km (Two-way travel) a day to work.
So, if the maintenance are around the same, i was thinking of upgrading to this lovely car :driver:...

Except i noticed Tezza has a 60 litre fuel tank clocking 400 - 500km, while my Vios clocks 400km+ (45 Litre). Secondly, Wear and tear parts such as the Suspension set-up (D. Wishbones), Absorbers, Bushing, are 500% more costly compared to vios.

Just an opinion from you all:
1) Do these Wear and tear parts of this car spoil VERY often?? like say 1 to 2 years gone case?
2) Any more things too look out when owning a Tezza (RWD) as compared with a vios (FWD)?
3) Rear differential oil change expensive?
4) G2 and G4 got alot difference in terms of performance?
5) Is it reasonable to get this car based on my situation?

Sorry if its a long post and alot questions. but i've been desiring to get one since i saw one in Puchong (TRD bodykit). I hope any sifu or advisers can give me a good opinion.. I'm looking for a fun daily and reliable ride. Thanks all. :adore:

P.S. Newbie here and first time posting in a forum. Sorry if i violate any thread rules. PM me if i do :confused:
Altezza maintenance is higher than Vios. By a lot. RWD has diff and assuming you want a manual, the manual oil is going to be more expensive than the Toyota type-IV oil. And the age of the Altezza alone will make it expensive to maintain. But still cheaper than a stupid Nissan Sylphy G14.

The newer G4 is better than the G2 purely because of age. The bigger the number the newer the engine. Also the G1, 3 and 5 3SGE Beams engines are manuals, G2 and 4 are autos. Personally I hate the autos because there is almost no low end torque and revving an auto to high RPMs is just sad.

Also finding a 30k Altezza probably means it's a beat up RS200 with a 1GFE 6-cylinder. I recommend the 3SGE Beams models not the 1GFE ones unless you plan to do engine swap. The 1GFE is really old and costs way more to maintain due to age and 2 extra cylinders. The Beams engine is a rev happy engine and pretty needs to be revved a lot to get the best out of the engine so the auto is not the ideal transmission.

Other than that the interior bits and pieces are not cheap to buy too so make sure your interior isn't damaged.

If you're not sure how to check all these things, the Trial guys in Sg Besi can help you check the car as they are Altezza pros. Either meet the seller at their shop or hire one of the mechs to go inspect the car for you.
 

alcyon

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2) Any more things too look out when owning a Tezza (RWD) as compared with a vios (FWD)?
RWD FC will be higher than vios. Extra rotational weight as well as extra overall weight. Altezza about 1350kg while vios is like 200kg lighter + fwd.
 

Wayne_92

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Thanks for all the replies from the taikors, sifus and enthusiasts :beer:

And you might have to wait for parts during downtime meaning no car for few days when parts do break down since this car is quite rare.
I see, if thats the case then kinda defeat the purpose of daily driving if need to sit in the workshop. Just wondering if the parts can last or have to wait long like Continental cars?

Previously owned the smaller brother, toyota SEG AE101 with 20v blacktop engine, 6mt gearbox. And as expected, I kena chopped/cheated by mechanics along the way since I'm naive and knows nuts in the beginner. But its worth it for me
Thats a sweet car man, always like the rally looking body and the round fog lights. Same here, gullible and didnt do research about my vios before going workshop. Guess we all have to start somewhere:dontknow:.. but thanks for the advice and sharing your experience brokenjar. Glad to hear you gain something positive about it..

Agree with bro. brokenjars, as older car will have more wear ans tear, so not sure what other parts may need repair/replace in the near future. Maintenance like oil and filter almost the same with most car, even my turbo 4G63T just change oil and filter only.....
Ahh okay. will definitely look out for it. but dang 4G63T, Thats one powerful engine wei. :rock:

Altezza maintenance is higher than Vios. By a lot. RWD has diff and assuming you want a manual, the manual oil is going to be more expensive than the Toyota type-IV oil. And the age of the Altezza alone will make it expensive to maintain. But still cheaper than a stupid Nissan Sylphy G14.

The newer G4 is better than the G2 purely because of age. The bigger the number the newer the engine. Also the G1, 3 and 5 3SGE Beams engines are manuals, G2 and 4 are autos. Personally I hate the autos because there is almost no low end torque and revving an auto to high RPMs is just sad.

Also finding a 30k Altezza probably means it's a beat up RS200 with a 1GFE 6-cylinder. I recommend the 3SGE Beams models not the 1GFE ones unless you plan to do engine swap. The 1GFE is really old and costs way more to maintain due to age and 2 extra cylinders. The Beams engine is a rev happy engine and pretty needs to be revved a lot to get the best out of the engine so the auto is not the ideal transmission.

Other than that the interior bits and pieces are not cheap to buy too so make sure your interior isn't damaged.

If you're not sure how to check all these things, the Trial guys in Sg Besi can help you check the car as they are Altezza pros. Either meet the seller at their shop or hire one of the mechs to go inspect the car for you.
Ah okay, i noticed "Trial" name always pop up when altezza is mentioned. will definitely pay them a visit, thats is after MCO ah :laugh:. Good to know there is a specialist out there for Tezza. Thanks for your opinion and recommendation bro Izso. Btw, is it recommended to Only service the car there? or can simply go any workshop to service a Tezza?

https://www.mudah.my/Toyota+ALTEZZA+2+0+RS200+A+2001-81613873.htm

Can quite confirm its a 3S-GE engine i guess? cause the one im looking at Mudah has a "G4" sticker on the engine cover and "Blacktop". but correct me if im wrong bro.

Yeah.. can see its gonna be more costly in terms of spare part. Totally understand your point to opt for a manual as i heard about the sluggish feeling during low rpm for this car. Plus with it being an auto, usually that would turn-off most spirited drivers.

But im usually a casual driver, park near mamaks, relek my legs during traffic jams but with slight tendency to throttle abit more when having a clear road or when its late night :biggrin:. Been driving my car for 5 years+, Just feeling the need to have a lil oomph of power in driving now . Plus I'm just digging the conti-car look with a reliability of a Toyota with alot of modding capabilities if swapped to 1jz or manual swap. That one later when got $$ ah, now drive stock 1st. hahah.
Hopefully can get a chance to test drive one before deciding to buy one :driver:.

"Though, it's fine if dont high rev the 3S-GE engine often? or is it a must to High revved it to avoid issues like the rumoured RX-8 Flooding?"

Edit: oh nvm, just read your previous Altezza FAQ post on this question. high rev to remove Carbons.

2) Any more things too look out when owning a Tezza (RWD) as compared with a vios (FWD)?
RWD FC will be higher than vios. Extra rotational weight as well as extra overall weight. Altezza about 1350kg while vios is like 200kg lighter + fwd.
Ahh i see.. cause i read most altezza owners say FC not bad for 2.0L car, Like can clock 500KM+. But thats like when the car is still 2 years+ of age ah. Not sure still same mileage now after 20 Years. :confused:

True, vios is close about 1000kg+ (Inclusive of my weight). haha. I guess getting the car have to sacrifice the FC.. But RWD though.. :biggrin:
 
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Izso

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I see, if thats the case then kinda defeat the purpose of daily driving if need to sit in the workshop. Just wondering if the parts can last or have to wait long like Continental cars?
It's a Toyota. Parts are not that easy to wear down if you change everything properly and not skimp on maintenance.

Ah okay, i noticed "Trial" name always pop up when altezza is mentioned. will definitely pay them a visit, thats is after MCO ah :laugh:. Good to know there is a specialist out there for Tezza. Thanks for your opinion and recommendation bro Izso. Btw, is it recommended to Only service the car there? or can simply go any workshop to service a Tezza?
No la. You don't have to go to Trial for everything but since they deal with Altezzas so often they probably can diagnose something better than what other shops are capable of. It's an ordinary RWD Toyota. The maintenance is pretty much the same as any VVTI Toyota except where the things are located and strengths/weaknesses.

Can quite confirm its a 3S-GE engine i guess? cause the one im looking at Mudah has a "G4" sticker on the engine cover and "Blacktop". but correct me if im wrong bro.

Yeah.. can see its gonna be more costly in terms of spare part. Totally understand your point to opt for a manual as i heard about the sluggish feeling during low rpm for this car. Plus with it being an auto, usually that would turn-off most spirited drivers.

But im usually a casual driver, park near mamaks, relek my legs during traffic jams but with slight tendency to throttle abit more when having a clear road or when its late night :biggrin:. Been driving my car for 5 years+, Just feeling the need to have a lil oomph of power in driving now . Plus I'm just digging the conti-car look with a reliability of a Toyota with alot of modding capabilities if swapped to 1jz or manual swap. That one later when got $$ ah, now drive stock 1st. hahah.
Hopefully can get a chance to test drive one before deciding to buy one :driver:.
Test drive first. I started off with an auto Wira and did a lot to increase the torque and performance of the car before finally going to a manual. My personal feeling is the Altezza auto is weaker than my modded 1.5L NA Wira. You talk about throttle a little bit - when I test drove the car I literally pedal flat down a lot just to move with the 4 people in the car including me. It's easy to drive slow but you will get super annoyed everytime you want to overtake. It's so low in torque.... so slow.... Anyway I test drove the manual a few times and I can guarantee you will love the manual so much more than the weak ass auto 3SGE G2/G4 tezzas.

Incidentally there's a 1JZ Altezza in mudah right now. Should have a look at that car or the manuals. But if you look at the 1JZ make sure it's done properly with the right cross member, fuel line routing and wiring isn't a hack job. I recommend Wan N Lin workshop if you're gonna see the JZ cuz these guys play with JZ converts so often they saw all the problems with my ex-car without even jacking up the car. I can recommend the head mech to you if you want.

Ahh i see.. cause i read most altezza owners say FC not bad for 2.0L car, Like can clock 500KM+. But thats like when the car is still 2 years+ of age ah. Not sure still same mileage now after 20 Years. :confused:

True, vios is close about 1000kg+ (Inclusive of my weight). haha. I guess getting the car have to sacrifice the FC.. But RWD though.. :biggrin:
How much mileage the car can go (500km+) is not a good way to determine FC. The tank for the Altezza IIRC is 60L so if it runs 500km it's expected. And it's a RWD so FC will not be fantastic like the Vios. It's a 2.0 so if you can average 8-9km/L it's pretty decent already especially for a RWD. A Vios can easily get 12-15km/L depending on the model and driving style. So expect to pay more for fuel and sacrifice rear legroom.

Overall Tezzas are fantastic cars, a little cramp in the rear legroom area but otherwise it's reliable, relatively cheap to maintain for a RWD car and holds its used car price very well. Parts are still plentiful and if you go to the right shop the maintenance can be very easily sorted for you. Just buy the right car and you'll be fine but make sure you test drive the car.
 

alcyon

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But im usually a casual driver, park near mamaks, relek my legs during traffic jams but with slight tendency to throttle abit more when having a clear road or when its late night :biggrin:. Been driving my car for 5 years+, Just feeling the need to have a lil oomph of power in driving now . Plus I'm just digging the conti-car look with a reliability of a Toyota with alot of modding capabilities if swapped to 1jz or manual swap. That one later when got $$ ah, now drive stock 1st. hahah.
Then IMHO, auto is fine..
 

Mitevo7

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Altezza is pretty rare nowadays, the 2.0 BEAMS engine is excellent if it pairs with a manual, automatic A650e is pretty ok for town drive but it will not be torquey. Given to our traffic nowadays, an automatic car serves better purpose for DD, unless you are hardcore, then go for manual.

Thanks,
Ken
 

ixeo

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If you’re going for an AUTOMATIC, might as well get an E90 325i with an in-line straight 6 engine with a ZF 6 speed automatic.

That screaming BEAMS engine isn’t all that fun without a manual, and since you’re a casual driver, no 4 banger comes close to the in-line 6 for smoothness.

Also, the current ZF 8 speed automatic used across all BMW is the best automatic transmission in the market right now. Period. The E90 is using the predecessor ZF 6 speed, which was the best 6 speed of its time. Not as seamless as the 8 speed, but still very good. So if you want an auto, why not get the best one for its time.

If you want godlike fuel efficiency, the E90 320d. If you cover a lot of KMs then get this for sure.

Next thing people will talk about reliability, cost of maintenance etc. For such an old car, both the Altezza and BMW, wear and tear is certainly there. Lots of things need replacement, rubber parts, AC coil, radiator etc. Oh for the same money I believe the BMW will be a younger car than Altezza.

Now comes the argument of the badge, Toyota vs BMW. Usually, Toyota is easy to maintain, due to abundance of spare parts in Malaysia, and ease of maintenance. That being said, comparing a Vios and Altezza is far fetched. Parts for Vios is super easy to come by, you can be stranded in Kota Bharu and still able to easily get spare parts there, worse case scenario you can go to UMW Toyota there. But remember you can’t do the same with an Altezza. Whereas with the E90, it was sold here in Malaysia, so there are still BMW specialists all over Malaysia that service it and carries parts for it. Don’t go to BMW dealerships they will slaughter you.

With your income and budget, DO NOT get a modified car. Maintaining a stock one at this age will not be easy. Getting a modified one will end up #1jzparking
 
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Mitevo7

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If you’re going for an AUTOMATIC, might as well get an E90 325i with an in-line straight 6 engine with a ZF 6 speed automatic.

That screaming BEAMS engine isn’t all that fun without a manual, and since you’re a casual driver, no 4 banger comes close to the in-line 6 for smoothness.

Also, the current ZF 8 speed automatic used across all BMW is the best automatic transmission in the market right now. Period. The E90 is using the predecessor ZF 6 speed, which was the best 6 speed of its time. Not as seamless as the 8 speed, but still very good. So if you want an auto, why not get the best one for its time.

If you want godlike fuel efficiency, the E90 320d. If you cover a lot of KMs then get this for sure.

Next thing people will talk about reliability, cost of maintenance etc. For such an old car, both the Altezza and BMW, wear and tear is certainly there. Lots of things need replacement, rubber parts, AC coil, radiator etc. Oh for the same money I believe the BMW will be a younger car than Altezza.

Now comes the argument of the badge, Toyota vs BMW. Usually, Toyota is easy to maintain, due to abundance of spare parts in Malaysia, and ease of maintenance. That being said, comparing a Vios and Altezza is far fetched. Parts for Vios is super easy to come by, you can be stranded in Kota Bharu and still able to easily get spare parts there, worse case scenario you can go to UMW Toyota there. But remember you can’t do the same with an Altezza. Whereas with the E90, it was sold here in Malaysia, so there are still BMW specialists all over Malaysia that service it and carries parts for it. Don’t go to BMW dealerships they will slaughter you.

With your income and budget, DO NOT get a modified car. Maintaining a stock one at this age will not be easy. Getting a modified one will end up #1jzparking
E90, E90, E90, E90 ........... the one that got away :(

Put both Altezza and E90 325i side by side, i will jump into E90 anytime.
 

alcyon

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If you’re going for an AUTOMATIC, might as well get an E90 325i with an in-line straight 6 engine with a ZF 6 speed automatic.

That screaming BEAMS engine isn’t all that fun without a manual, and since you’re a casual driver, no 4 banger comes close to the in-line 6 for smoothness.

Also, the current ZF 8 speed automatic used across all BMW is the best automatic transmission in the market right now. Period. The E90 is using the predecessor ZF 6 speed, which was the best 6 speed of its time. Not as seamless as the 8 speed, but still very good. So if you want an auto, why not get the best one for its time.

If you want godlike fuel efficiency, the E90 320d. If you cover a lot of KMs then get this for sure.

Next thing people will talk about reliability, cost of maintenance etc. For such an old car, both the Altezza and BMW, wear and tear is certainly there. Lots of things need replacement, rubber parts, AC coil, radiator etc. Oh for the same money I believe the BMW will be a younger car than Altezza.

Now comes the argument of the badge, Toyota vs BMW. Usually, Toyota is easy to maintain, due to abundance of spare parts in Malaysia, and ease of maintenance. That being said, comparing a Vios and Altezza is far fetched. Parts for Vios is super easy to come by, you can be stranded in Kota Bharu and still able to easily get spare parts there, worse case scenario you can go to UMW Toyota there. But remember you can’t do the same with an Altezza. Whereas with the E90, it was sold here in Malaysia, so there are still BMW specialists all over Malaysia that service it and carries parts for it. Don’t go to BMW dealerships they will slaughter you.

With your income and budget, DO NOT get a modified car. Maintaining a stock one at this age will not be easy. Getting a modified one will end up #1jzparking
Ok i guess, assuming this car will fit into his 30k budget.
 

ixeo

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E90, E90, E90, E90 ........... the one that got away :(

Put both Altezza and E90 325i side by side, i will jump into E90 anytime.
Well, if it was a manual Altezza vs a E90 325i automatic. I may consider the Altezza. Automatic? Forget it, the ZF 6 speed all the way.

Ok i guess, assuming this car will fit into his 30k budget.
The cheapest Altezza is 30k on mudah, most expensive 47k. And you cannot assume you will buy the 30k one, maybe accident car, got problems. You have to take the average. And they are manufactured up to 1999 to 2004. The ones for sale is up to 2003.

BMW E90 325i you have the pre-LCI models from 2004-2008, and LCI from 2008 to 2011. You can easily assume the BMW is going to be a younger car. Don't start with the Toyota is more reliable bullshit, rubber is rubber, it falls apart over time and its a wear and tear item. Just because its Toyota rubber doesn't make it invincible.

You can easily find 2006 to 2008 ones for RM30k range.

@ixeo The bmw E90 has same maintenance cost as Altezza? I always though bmw parts are super expensive..
Depends. Altezza is not your pedestrian Toyota. That engine is not shared with any other car (yes I know many Toyota uses the 3SGE, but the Tezza one is special.). Plus most of the parts on the Altezza is exclusive for Altezza. There's not that many in Malaysia and it was not sold locally (compared to E90).

The Altezza parts are cheaper by than the BMW. The only concern I have is parts availability. My household have a 2000 Suzuki Vitara. I can tell you, its reliable, yes, but at 15 years of ownership, rebuild the engine, and suspension arms, many parts have to special order. Have to pay and have to wait. Stupid irritating and waste of my time. Sure, common items like water pump, cooling coil, these are all ready stock as it is common wear and tear, but some like lower arm was just out of stock then have to order. And since Suzuki is dead here, there's no official dealership, and they didn't sell in large quantities, so parts is a problem.

The E90 on the other hand, was sold for 7 years, and it's quite a common car. Plus the dealership would still have parts (since they sold it) but they will slaughter you for it. But many specialists carry it, from KL to Penang to Perak, you can find parts easily.

Let's try ignition coil plug. A common item, wear and tear. In Mudah, I found 0 Altezza coil plugs, but plenty of E90 ones. I tried Lazada comparing LOCAL VENDORS ONLY, you can have E90 Delphi coil plug for RM128, Bosch for RM105, and FLAMMA coil plug for Altezza for RM95.

Cooling coil/evaporator, another common wear and tear part. E90 you have Denso for RM580, some local brand RM128. Altezza RM350, the same local brand RM128.

In any case, all this wear and tear items is on its way out. It just a game of chance, and what was replaced on the car before you bought it.
 
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Izso

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E90, E90, E90, E90 ........... the one that got away :(

Put both Altezza and E90 325i side by side, i will jump into E90 anytime.
SAME... :biggrin:

@ixeo The bmw E90 has same maintenance cost as Altezza? I always though bmw parts are super expensive..
Not really. Using reputable parts sellers like Bavarian-Auto and Innerpower, you can get cheaper parts. The parts were surprisingly cheap and I had a e36 and e90 (for a super short while) so when I found these parts sellers their parts are 40% - 50% cheaper than what you see outside. Parts are original or OEM replacement parts. But this applies to e36, 46 and 90 generation cars. The newer F and G series are expensive. The only reason why BMWs are expensive to maintain is because the service intervals are shorter and you can't skimp. If it says change a gasket you better change the gasket. Don't say "oh it's not leaking no need to change". This will make a regular BMW service into a nightmare scenario.

Also the name "3SGE" and "Altezza" automatically jacks up prices like how "Supra" parts are not that cheap even though Toyota. But having said that the service intervals for Toyotas vs BMWs differ quite a bit and parts that need changing is significantly less in a Toyota hence 'cheaper'.

Ok i guess, assuming this car will fit into his 30k budget.
This is a very good point. Regardless whether it's a 30k Altezza or a 30k BMW E90, at 30k it's most likely the car is going to need at least 10-15k repairs. But you probably could get away with a really really good E36/46 for 30k.
 

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Wah boss had E90 ah. And now got new ride. Fuiyooooo
 

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SAME... :biggrin:


Not really. Using reputable parts sellers like Bavarian-Auto and Innerpower, you can get cheaper parts. The parts were surprisingly cheap and I had a e36 and e90 (for a super short while) so when I found these parts sellers their parts are 40% - 50% cheaper than what you see outside. Parts are original or OEM replacement parts. But this applies to e36, 46 and 90 generation cars. The newer F and G series are expensive. The only reason why BMWs are expensive to maintain is because the service intervals are shorter and you can't skimp. If it says change a gasket you better change the gasket. Don't say "oh it's not leaking no need to change". This will make a regular BMW service into a nightmare scenario.

Also the name "3SGE" and "Altezza" automatically jacks up prices like how "Supra" parts are not that cheap even though Toyota. But having said that the service intervals for Toyotas vs BMWs differ quite a bit and parts that need changing is significantly less in a Toyota hence 'cheaper'.


This is a very good point. Regardless whether it's a 30k Altezza or a 30k BMW E90, at 30k it's most likely the car is going to need at least 10-15k repairs. But you probably could get away with a really really good E36/46 for 30k.
Yeah lar, i test driven about 6 E90s 323, 325i spec. In the end, i picked the Volvo just after 1 test drive ! Ironic ... Just like when you thought your high school crush was the one, then in the end you be with that girl you met once at the library.

E90 parts are surprising affordable, but the major parts like gearbox and engine's are still tough to afford if they go wrong, however, there are plenty of chopped E90s for you to pick your parts though which make them having more presence on the roads nowadays. I am seeing for E90s and F30s on the roads than E46. E36 become a rare right, especially the coupe version.

For 30K budget, i would suggest TS to get a decent E46 325i sedan. E46 coupe is nice to have but those freaking frameless door rubbers are hard to source and expensive even at Auto Bavaria. Altezza 3SGE is good if you can have the manual one, automatic transmission from the early 2000's are not comparable to Euro from the same era. The E46's 5 speed auto shifts quite good and very reliable, engine is one of the best and easily can be modded to 200whp with simple M52 manifold swap and exhaust sytem.
 
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Yeah lar, i test driven about 6 E90s 323, 325i spec. In the end, i picked the Volvo just after 1 test drive ! Ironic ... Just like when you thought your high school crush was the one, then in the end you be with that girl you met once at the library.

E90 parts are surprising affordable, but the major parts like gearbox and engine's are still tough to afford if they go wrong, however, there are plenty of chopped E90s for you to pick your parts though which make them having more presence on the roads nowadays. I am seeing for E90s and F30s on the roads than E46. E36 become a rare right, especially the coupe version.

For 30K budget, i would suggest TS to get a decent E46 325i sedan. E46 coupe is nice to have but those freaking frameless door rubbers are hard to source and expensive even at Auto Bavaria. Altezza 3SGE is good if you can have the manual one, automatic transmission from the early 2000's are not comparable to Euro from the same era. The E46's 5 speed auto shifts quite good and very reliable, engine is one of the best and easily can be modded to 200whp with simple M52 manifold swap and exhaust sytem.
200whp from just that seems far far far off the mark bro.... like way far
 
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200whp from just that seems far far far off the mark bro.... like way far
Can le, stock 325i on the crank is already 195hp, let's assume 20% transmission lost, 156whp.

The stock M54 intake manifold is super restrictive, swapping to another M52B25 intake manifold will add approx 10hp without tune. Doing other basic IHE mods, stronger ignition spark, spark plugs and lastly flashing the ECU, might be about 200whp, but also depends on what dyno you are running on to see the figure lo. Most importantly is on the road feel.
 

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Can le, stock 325i on the crank is already 195hp, let's assume 20% transmission lost, 156whp.

The stock M54 intake manifold is super restrictive, swapping to another M52B25 intake manifold will add approx 10hp without tune. Doing other basic IHE mods, stronger ignition spark, spark plugs and lastly flashing the ECU, might be about 200whp, but also depends on what dyno you are running on to see the figure lo. Most importantly is on the road feel.
Buy E46 + mod.. better just buy the E90 right? You get a better chassis and a better transmission.

Remember children about the story of #bmw1jzparking
 
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Buy E46 + mod.. better just buy the E90 right? You get a better chassis and a better transmission.

Remember children about the story of #bmw1jzparking
Dudeeee , that's harsh. E90 is of course a better choice but in terms of reliability, E46 tops it stock to stock.

At least my BMW1jzdriving for 1 full year and went through 2 services. Bless my mechanic and the wireman !
 

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Can le, stock 325i on the crank is already 195hp, let's assume 20% transmission lost, 156whp.

The stock M54 intake manifold is super restrictive, swapping to another M52B25 intake manifold will add approx 10hp without tune. Doing other basic IHE mods, stronger ignition spark, spark plugs and lastly flashing the ECU, might be about 200whp, but also depends on what dyno you are running on to see the figure lo. Most importantly is on the road feel.
after all that + maybe a cam u would probably be near 200whp..... i thought you meant justthe intake + exhaust, literally that, u aint gona make anywhere near 200 at the wheels, i know a guy who has been chasing that 200whp.
In the end i guess hes was going to try go the 'theres no replacement for displacement' 3.0 internals route, but covid hit and i guess this project has to take a step back
 
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Dudeeee , that's harsh. E90 is of course a better choice but in terms of reliability, E46 tops it stock to stock.

At least my BMW1jzdriving for 1 full year and went through 2 services. Bless my mechanic and the wireman !
Anything stock is more reliable. Simple reason is that at that age the car is falling apart. Modding just introduces more variables and more failure points.

“if it’s not broken don’t fix it”.

UNLESS, you are mentally and financially ready to sink a lot of money into it. Even if I am financially able to, I won’t do it, because it’s going to be problems after problems.

stock and repairing it is already enough mental stress. Having to bless mechanics and wireman is hard work. Especially when you find a not so good one, one step forward two steps back.
 
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Anything stock is more reliable. Simple reason is that at that age the car is falling apart. Modding just introduces more variables and more failure points.

“if it’s not broken don’t fix it”.

UNLESS, you are mentally and financially ready to sink a lot of money into it. Even if I am financially able to, I won’t do it, because it’s going to be problems after problems.

stock and repairing it is already enough mental stress. Having to bless mechanics and wireman is hard work. Especially when you find a not so good one, one step forward two steps back.
My mechanic say the same thing, Got one time my vacuum hose came off and mt VR was boosting 1 plus bar. Nice power to have, but mechanic mentioned your car now 20 plus years old, even though the engine is built to be turbo, keep at stock 0.6 boost. Boosting pass 1 bar add very high stress to the engine......lol
 

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Buy E46 + mod.. better just buy the E90 right? You get a better chassis and a better transmission.

Remember children about the story of #bmw1jzparking
Dude let it go already. It was parked a lot because of owner stupidity in trusting incompetent tuner and parts seller. If I had the same contacts I have today back then I'd be running circles around your land yacht with 460whp from a mainline dyno. But I'd probably crash because I'm a rubbish driver.

And the E36/46 looks soooooooooooooo much better than a E90 any day. Besides, you're talking about tranny from a BMW and comparing it with a JZ + R154 tranny, one is PNP in the BMW vs one that needed to be modified in. Two different situations la.

“if it’s not broken don’t fix it”.
With BMWs that's probably not a good approach to take. If it's due a for a change even in a completely stock car you better change it. Stupid BMWs are whiney little buggers that want everything changed when it's time.
 

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after all that + maybe a cam u would probably be near 200whp..... i thought you meant justthe intake + exhaust, literally that, u aint gona make anywhere near 200 at the wheels, i know a guy who has been chasing that 200whp.
In the end i guess hes was going to try go the 'theres no replacement for displacement' 3.0 internals route, but covid hit and i guess this project has to take a step back
With just IHE, no you won't make close to 170whp, you will need comprehensive AFR tuning, especially when you changed out the restrictive intake manifold and exhaust manifold. With these 2 mods, we can see about 10whp without tune, however the power is not optimize at all due to the powerband shifts to high side and won't benefit automatic gearbox. For M54B25 engine, the head can be replaced with B30 engine head and port the intake route for smoother flow. Of course every end of this needs a TUNE, then it will be possible to see 200whp.
 
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Dude let it go already. It was parked a lot because of owner stupidity in trusting incompetent tuner and parts seller. If I had the same contacts I have today back then I'd be running circles around your land yacht with 460whp from a mainline dyno. But I'd probably crash because I'm a rubbish driver.

And the E36/46 looks soooooooooooooo much better than a E90 any day. Besides, you're talking about tranny from a BMW and comparing it with a JZ + R154 tranny, one is PNP in the BMW vs one that needed to be modified in. Two different situations la.


With BMWs that's probably not a good approach to take. If it's due a for a change even in a completely stock car you better change it. Stupid BMWs are whiney little buggers that want everything changed when it's time.
Your situation will be alot different if you didn't buy off a modified car, if you start off converting the car on your own, from sourcing engine, people and parts all by yourself, you won't in that mess.

Modern E90 has its charm, especially LCI model with i-Drive, its' more focused than E46 but i prefer the timeless design of 2000's cars, everything is just so right and don't seems to fade with time. Custom make a cluster dash, you will have a top gun style cockpit haha !
 

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Your situation will be alot different if you didn't buy off a modified car, if you start off converting the car on your own, from sourcing engine, people and parts all by yourself, you won't in that mess.

Modern E90 has its charm, especially LCI model with i-Drive, its' more focused than E46 but i prefer the timeless design of 2000's cars, everything is just so right and don't seems to fade with time. Custom make a cluster dash, you will have a top gun style cockpit haha !
Actually if I had done the conversion myself the car would've costed me 40k instead of the 26k I paid.

And I would still be driving the car if I hadn't trusted the first tuner + parts guy I met. The parts guy is a major distributor in certain items I used a lot and I bought a lot of parts off him for the car (about 20k worth of stuff) and his tuner was supposedly "the guy he used". Unfortunately both were incompetent and I wasted too much time and money with them. After I sold the car off (as is) to a friend, my friend wanted the car inspected by his mech which I got to know over time and is now great buddies. This mech only had to look at my ex-e36 and pointed out all the issues with the car. He's pretty much sorted out all the problems with the car and my friends wife has been boosting around with 460whp horsepower (Mainline dyno.. figures are about 20-30% less than Dynojet) without issues. I had issues with drivability back then. If I had used this mech earlier and spent my 20k with him, I'd still have the car in my front porch.
 

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Actually if I had done the conversion myself the car would've costed me 40k instead of the 26k I paid.

And I would still be driving the car if I hadn't trusted the first tuner + parts guy I met. The parts guy is a major distributor in certain items I used a lot and I bought a lot of parts off him for the car (about 20k worth of stuff) and his tuner was supposedly "the guy he used". Unfortunately both were incompetent and I wasted too much time and money with them. After I sold the car off (as is) to a friend, my friend wanted the car inspected by his mech which I got to know over time and is now great buddies. This mech only had to look at my ex-e36 and pointed out all the issues with the car. He's pretty much sorted out all the problems with the car and my friends wife has been boosting around with 460whp horsepower (Mainline dyno.. figures are about 20-30% less than Dynojet) without issues. I had issues with drivability back then. If I had used this mech earlier and spent my 20k with him, I'd still have the car in my front porch.
Well what's past is past, sometimes some tuners just don't have that fate coincidence with you, i am pretty sure they did well with others but also disappoint some in the process. Am happy to hear the E36 found new life in the hands of new owner. Perhaps you also don't have that fate coincidence with the car, that's why its' giving you so much nightmares. For now, its time to recollect finances, and use 1 or 2 years to find, perhaps an E90 ?
 

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My mechanic say the same thing, Got one time my vacuum hose came off and mt VR was boosting 1 plus bar. Nice power to have, but mechanic mentioned your car now 20 plus years old, even though the engine is built to be turbo, keep at stock 0.6 boost. Boosting pass 1 bar add very high stress to the engine......lol
welp.... *looks outside* yea... almost 20, 1.3 bar....:laugh:
 

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Well what's past is past, sometimes some tuners just don't have that fate coincidence with you, i am pretty sure they did well with others but also disappoint some in the process. Am happy to hear the E36 found new life in the hands of new owner. Perhaps you also don't have that fate coincidence with the car, that's why its' giving you so much nightmares. For now, its time to recollect finances, and use 1 or 2 years to find, perhaps an E90 ?
I spend a shit ton on that E36. It'll be hella more than 1-2 years man. Probably 5. Hahaha... sob sob... sigh

Anyway I am trying to find means and ways to recollect my cash back.
 

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I spend a shit ton on that E36. It'll be hella more than 1-2 years man. Probably 5. Hahaha... sob sob... sigh

Anyway I am trying to find means and ways to recollect my cash back.
Yeah i read that you spent about 26k, which is also the same price i paid to settle all my E46 converted including mods like enable manual mode of auto gear, low temp thermostat, radiator, used high speed fan, front brake system, FICD, and Premium adjustable
 

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Yeah i read that you spent about 26k, which is also the same price i paid to settle all my E46 converted including mods like enable manual mode of auto gear, low temp thermostat, radiator, used high speed fan, front brake system, FICD, and Premium adjustable
I erm... sigh... spent more than that. I didn't declare everything. It was more like 40k
 

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Actually if I had done the conversion myself the car would've costed me 40k instead of the 26k I paid.

This mech only had to look at my ex-e36 and pointed out all the issues with the car. He's pretty much sorted out all the problems with the car and my friends wife has been boosting around with 460whp horsepower (Mainline dyno.. figures are about 20-30% less than Dynojet) without issues..
Mind sharing who and where about of this mechanic
 

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I erm... sigh... spent more than that. I didn't declare everything. It was more like 40k
WTF mate ! That's painful to know ! I think another 20k + is for refurbishing the interior ?
 

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Mind sharing who and where about of this mechanic
Yeah sure. These guys located in Pendustrian Puchong - Wai N Lin. Ah Wai is the head mech and Ah Lin his brother is the 2nd guy. The helper and youngest of the lot is Ah Wei. Lots of Ah's.

WTF mate ! That's painful to know ! I think another 20k + is for refurbishing the interior ?
Man - you don't know the half of it. First day I had it stripped inside the carpet was soaking wet. Aircon pipe drain wasn't connected and seeping into the cabin. Smelt like wet dog. Rear seats were never used so the leather had dried up and peeled like scabs. Almost all the wiring was bunched up and left hap-hazard under the carpet.

Best thing was some of the wiring work was so shoddy it didn't even have insulation tape protecting the twist connections. Then I found one direct from battery 4ga power cable straight into the cabin connected to..... nothing. Exposed and had it shorted to ground bye bye something. I had sooooooooo many live wires exposed to the wet carpet man.... it's a miracle it didn't burn down. Then the main fan and aircon fan were connected to ONE relay so you can imagine how melted that relay was. I spent a shit ton fixing up the interior and wiring. Re-doing the wiring and wiring harness was all there. Then grounding was so bad I had to redo that too. Oh and the modification to the fueling system was so scary too, that took a small chunk of my money to fix too. Jeezuz.

Admittedly I spent some cash doing the autofoam treatment to stiffen and quieten down the car so that was one sum of money I probably shouldn't have spent. Then I spent some money on new suspension too. HLSH from a famous brand that I don't want to mention because they had absolutely rubbish aftersales service.

Basically my friend who bought the car just needs to fix up the engine mis-matches and potentially a new standalone because the shitty spitronics ECU was absolutely garbage in managing the car. Made it worse when no one knew how to tune it too, including the distributors own tuner who somehow managed to cause an engine fire..... my engine.

Anyway my story is a long one. I don't want to think about it anymore because it's no longer my car. My friend untung all the new bits and pieces I spent including a new turbo housing, wastegate and shit tons of other things I changed..
 

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Yeah sure. These guys located in Pendustrian Puchong - Wai N Lin. Ah Wai is the head mech and Ah Lin his brother is the 2nd guy. The helper and youngest of the lot is Ah Wei. Lots of Ah's.


Man - you don't know the half of it. First day I had it stripped inside the carpet was soaking wet. Aircon pipe drain wasn't connected and seeping into the cabin. Smelt like wet dog. Rear seats were never used so the leather had dried up and peeled like scabs. Almost all the wiring was bunched up and left hap-hazard under the carpet.

Best thing was some of the wiring work was so shoddy it didn't even have insulation tape protecting the twist connections. Then I found one direct from battery 4ga power cable straight into the cabin connected to..... nothing. Exposed and had it shorted to ground bye bye something. I had sooooooooo many live wires exposed to the wet carpet man.... it's a miracle it didn't burn down. Then the main fan and aircon fan were connected to ONE relay so you can imagine how melted that relay was. I spent a shit ton fixing up the interior and wiring. Re-doing the wiring and wiring harness was all there. Then grounding was so bad I had to redo that too. Oh and the modification to the fueling system was so scary too, that took a small chunk of my money to fix too. Jeezuz.

Admittedly I spent some cash doing the autofoam treatment to stiffen and quieten down the car so that was one sum of money I probably shouldn't have spent. Then I spent some money on new suspension too. HLSH from a famous brand that I don't want to mention because they had absolutely rubbish aftersales service.

Basically my friend who bought the car just needs to fix up the engine mis-matches and potentially a new standalone because the shitty spitronics ECU was absolutely garbage in managing the car. Made it worse when no one knew how to tune it too, including the distributors own tuner who somehow managed to cause an engine fire..... my engine.

Anyway my story is a long one. I don't want to think about it anymore because it's no longer my car. My friend untung all the new bits and pieces I spent including a new turbo housing, wastegate and shit tons of other things I changed..
Lesson to TS and all of us here who wants to keep or buy an old car, all the above might be something we might ran into, especially if we don't know the history of certain cars. With you capability, pretty sure you will be rolling in another fast car (define your fast) very soon. I am stopping all car mods effective Jan 2020, with this pandemic hit us so harrrdd. I think i will be stopping it until next year end, until things start to look abit better. However, what needs to be fixed must be fixed ... Stupid lower arm bushing went out during these times, together with the rear arm bush ... Considering its already 21 years old, i think those bushings consider quite durable since they never been changed before. Should i go with Hardrace bush ?

Thanks,
Ken
 

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Lesson to TS and all of us here who wants to keep or buy an old car, all the above might be something we might ran into, especially if we don't know the history of certain cars. With you capability, pretty sure you will be rolling in another fast car (define your fast) very soon. I am stopping all car mods effective Jan 2020, with this pandemic hit us so harrrdd. I think i will be stopping it until next year end, until things start to look abit better. However, what needs to be fixed must be fixed ... Stupid lower arm bushing went out during these times, together with the rear arm bush ... Considering its already 21 years old, i think those bushings consider quite durable since they never been changed before. Should i go with Hardrace bush ?

Thanks,
Ken
Hardrace bushings are great. I know not many brands (available to us) have bushes available for BMWs. Hardrace and Superpro have bits and pieces of bushings for E36 but not everything.
 

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Hardrace bushings are great. I know not many brands (available to us) have bushes available for BMWs. Hardrace and Superpro have bits and pieces of bushings for E36 but not everything.
Or i just buy a fullkit from UK, its quite cheap for set of lower armbar and bushing with meyle bush in it, will that be better to hold 1JZ torque ?
 

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Or i just buy a fullkit from UK, its quite cheap for set of lower armbar and bushing with meyle bush in it, will that be better to hold 1JZ torque ?
I don't know tbh. I feel even stock is good enough but I like how it feels when I went and did Superpro last time in my old car.
 

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Wah suddenly so many replies and moving into BMW territory, sorry for the late reply, was flooded with work..

It's a Toyota. Parts are not that easy to wear down if you change everything properly and not skimp on maintenance.
Yeah, im estimating atleast 8k ready to accommodate the new change of parts one-go (bushings, new o2 Sensors, timing belts and water pumps, solenoid, Ignition coils, oil gasket, normal fluid changes) in hopes to have a hassle free ride for few thousand miles. but correct me sifus if my estimation is off target :grimacing:.

I've been reading bout the issues this car may pop-up, and SEEMS, seem la.. not much on Engine and gearbox issues. Most issues would be the solenoid, o2 sensors and plugs. Any altezza owner can validate? :sweatsmile:

If you’re going for an AUTOMATIC, might as well get an E90 325i with an in-line straight 6 engine with a ZF 6 speed automatic.

That screaming BEAMS engine isn’t all that fun without a manual, and since you’re a casual driver, no 4 banger comes close to the in-line 6 for smoothness.

Also, the current ZF 8 speed automatic used across all BMW is the best automatic transmission in the market right now. Period. The E90 is using the predecessor ZF 6 speed, which was the best 6 speed of its time. Not as seamless as the 8 speed, but still very good. So if you want an auto, why not get the best one for its time.

If you want godlike fuel efficiency, the E90 320d. If you cover a lot of KMs then get this for sure.

Next thing people will talk about reliability, cost of maintenance etc. For such an old car, both the Altezza and BMW, wear and tear is certainly there. Lots of things need replacement, rubber parts, AC coil, radiator etc. Oh for the same money I believe the BMW will be a younger car than Altezza.

Now comes the argument of the badge, Toyota vs BMW. Usually, Toyota is easy to maintain, due to abundance of spare parts in Malaysia, and ease of maintenance. That being said, comparing a Vios and Altezza is far fetched. Parts for Vios is super easy to come by, you can be stranded in Kota Bharu and still able to easily get spare parts there, worse case scenario you can go to UMW Toyota there. But remember you can’t do the same with an Altezza. Whereas with the E90, it was sold here in Malaysia, so there are still BMW specialists all over Malaysia that service it and carries parts for it. Don’t go to BMW dealerships they will slaughter you.

With your income and budget, DO NOT get a modified car. Maintaining a stock one at this age will not be easy. Getting a modified one will end up #1jzparking
Would agree with you bro ixeo, I've heard that the BMW E46 & E90 driving experience is awesome. I driven a F30 328i for a moment when CNY during late night in city area.. It was lovely wei... that was what poisoned me to get a RWD, haha. Of course, its a newer car la, cant expect the same experience for older gens of cars.

Personally i would try to avoid BMW cause most friends and relatives have sold off their old ones due to a few headache in maintaining it. Like fix this part, the other parts becomes gone case. I didnt ask too in depth.. but just the summary of it made me quite skeptical of their running reliability. Then again, it could be the age of the car like you have mentioned. But this is all my personal view la (Hope no BMer's gets offended :sweatsmile:) and do correct me.

For the 325i engine with inline 6 of 6L+ engine oil capacity, Im assuming a higher maintenance cost for regular interval services (E.g. Spark plugs & oil change)? Plus, roadtax is doubled from altezza being a 2.5L :frowning:.

Based on what i've gathered, i think altezza could be the balance? Have more performance than a Vios, though not as great performance as BMWs, but have the reliability to last like a Camry? that is IF, most of the major wear and tear parts are changed before driving out one.

With your income and budget, DO NOT get a modified car. Maintaining a stock one at this age will not be easy. Getting a modified one will end up #1jzparking
Haha, definitely will avoid them for now.. Heard alot of horror stories about modified car. Even if i do get the altezza, my aim would be to keep it well stocked and running, except for few handling tweaks (Arms, Bars, Coilovers, etc.). Wont be hardcore whacking it on tracks all the time.

Lesson to TS and all of us here who wants to keep or buy an old car, all the above might be something we might ran into, especially if we don't know the history of certain cars. With you capability, pretty sure you will be rolling in another fast car (define your fast) very soon. I am stopping all car mods effective Jan 2020, with this pandemic hit us so harrrdd. I think i will be stopping it until next year end, until things start to look abit better. However, what needs to be fixed must be fixed ... Stupid lower arm bushing went out during these times, together with the rear arm bush ... Considering its already 21 years old, i think those bushings consider quite durable since they never been changed before. Should i go with Hardrace bush ?

Thanks,
Ken
Haha i will take note on that, brother ken. Im not sure if Vios is considered fast ah, but its well taken care off with minor tweaks by installing ARB's and struts bar with steel brakelines. I do throttle harder on highway corners from time to time :grimacing:. Though i think have change my driving habit when it comes to RWD. But like what izso said, I think its best for me to go a test drive 1st and see what are my expectations and considerations on it. really cant wait for this Virus to go away..

Btw wanna ask, i heard altezza always have this Lower arm bushing issues and ball join issues. Most of the bushings i can find on the web are "Hardrace" brands. They dont supply Original Toyota or any other alternative OEM bushings anymore for altezza?

And do coilovers replaces entirely the need for absorbers and springs? The stock absorber almost 3k for 4 sides :coldsweat:. If thats the case, wouldnt coilover be a better option?
 
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Mitevo7

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Mitevo7

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Wah suddenly so many replies and moving into BMW territory, sorry for the late reply, was flooded with work..



Yeah, im estimating atleast 8k ready to accommodate the new change of parts one-go (bushings, new o2 Sensors, timing belts and water pumps, solenoid, Ignition coils, oil gasket, normal fluid changes) in hopes to have a hassle free ride for few thousand miles. but correct me sifus if my estimation is off target :grimacing:.

I've been reading bout the issues this car may pop-up, and SEEMS, seem la.. not much on Engine and gearbox issues. Most issues would be the solenoid, o2 sensors and plugs. Any altezza owner can validate? :sweatsmile:



Would agree with you bro ixeo, I've heard that the BMW E46 & E90 driving experience is awesome. I driven a F30 328i for a moment when CNY during late night in city area.. It was lovely wei... that was what poisoned me to get a RWD, haha. Of course, its a newer car la, cant expect the same experience for older gens of cars.

Personally i would try to avoid BMW cause most friends and relatives have sold off their old ones due to a few headache in maintaining it. Like fix this part, the other parts becomes gone case. I didnt ask too in depth.. but just the summary of it made me quite skeptical of their running reliability. Then again, it could be the age of the car like you have mentioned. But this is all my personal view la (Hope no BMer's gets offended :sweatsmile:) and do correct me.

For the 325i engine with inline 6 of 6L+ engine oil capacity, Im assuming a higher maintenance cost for regular interval services (E.g. Spark plugs & oil change)? Plus, roadtax is doubled from altezza being a 2.5L :frowning:.

Based on what i've gathered, i think altezza could be the balance? Have more performance than a Vios, though not as great performance as BMWs, but have the reliability to last like a Camry? that is IF, most of the major wear and tear parts are changed before driving out one.



Haha, definitely will avoid them for now.. Heard alot of horror stories about modified car. Even if i do get the altezza, my aim would be to keep it well stocked and running, except for few handling tweaks (Arms, Bars, Coilovers, etc.). Wont be hardcore whacking it on tracks all the time.



Haha i will take note on that, brother ken. Im not sure if Vios is considered fast ah, but its well taken care off with minor tweaks by installing ARB's and struts bar with steel brakelines. I do throttle harder on highway corners from time to time :grimacing:. Though i think have change my driving habit when it comes to RWD. But like what izso said, I think its best for me to go a test drive 1st and see what are my expectations and considerations on it. really cant wait for this Virus to go away..

Btw wanna ask, i heard altezza always have this Lower arm bushing issues and ball join issues. Most of the bushings i can find on the web are "Hardrace" brands. They dont supply Original Toyota or any other alternative OEM bushings anymore for altezza?

And do coilovers replaces entirely the need for absorbers and springs? The stock absorber almost 3k for 4 sides :coldsweat:. If thats the case, wouldnt coilover be a better option?
Vios is a good for its league, a car that help lots of my friends in building their careers and businesses until they are financially stable and get their ideal car. I would say keep it as your daily with low maintenance costs.

This is ZTH style, original topic will sway to others stuffs eventually so get used to it :). Altezza is very uncommon car in Malaysia, if you look for parts at Ebay probably you will see more. Any car with bushing will have issues eventually, not to mention a 15+ years old car. Hardrace is a good brand, i also want to upgrade this brand of bushing to my E46 but i consider cheaper and durable option.

Stock absorber gives you the comfort and performance where most people can accept, it will definitely one or 2 levels above Vios as its sports tuned. I would recommend get properly designed and performance proven coilovers like BC Racing, Tein, F-Tuned, or the one i am using Premium (Ex-Titan).
 

ixeo

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ixeo

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Well, my advice to TS would be to go find Altezza owner groups on FB, not sure if they are still active now as most of them are no longer in the modding phase, and just maintain and drive. Over there you will also get real life feedback on running one.

Don't ask questions like "easy to maintain or not". Too vague. Ask questions like, have the Altezza ever leave you stranded. Or was there a time you couldn't get parts. Etc. Easy is relative. What is easy to you may not be easy for me.

As for alternatives in that price range with a RWD. Other than BMW I cannot think of anything else.
 

lsm1991

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lsm1991

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Well, my advice to TS would be to go find Altezza owner groups on FB, not sure if they are still active now as most of them are no longer in the modding phase, and just maintain and drive. Over there you will also get real life feedback on running one.

Don't ask questions like "easy to maintain or not". Too vague. Ask questions like, have the Altezza ever leave you stranded. Or was there a time you couldn't get parts. Etc. Easy is relative. What is easy to you may not be easy for me.

As for alternatives in that price range with a RWD. Other than BMW I cannot think of anything else.
other rwd's that might not break the bank huh.....

mark X
- honestly speaking, since ts is looking for an automatic, this sounds like a way better option
- its more 'boatish' but will do the job fine i guess

mercs nothing interesting

audis are fancy vw's

...

wow that was bout it
 

Mitevo7

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Mitevo7

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other rwd's that might not break the bank huh.....

mark X
- honestly speaking, since ts is looking for an automatic, this sounds like a way better option
- its more 'boatish' but will do the job fine i guess

mercs nothing interesting

audis are fancy vw's

...

wow that was bout it
Oh yesss the Mark X, and if he doesn't mind a Lexus badge, the 2011 IS250 is also a good one but V6 engine (not sure its inferior to inline 6). The cabin, seats, NVH, comfort level is super good, better than my Volvo but its too "unsporty" to me.
 

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Izso

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Yeah, im estimating atleast 8k ready to accommodate the new change of parts one-go (bushings, new o2 Sensors, timing belts and water pumps, solenoid, Ignition coils, oil gasket, normal fluid changes) in hopes to have a hassle free ride for few thousand miles. but correct me sifus if my estimation is off target :grimacing:.

I've been reading bout the issues this car may pop-up, and SEEMS, seem la.. not much on Engine and gearbox issues. Most issues would be the solenoid, o2 sensors and plugs. Any altezza owner can validate? :sweatsmile:
You talking about auto or manual? Let's just talk about the cars I've been scoping out - only 1 had the vvti solenoid swapped out, the rest all needed changing. The O2 and spark plugs are wear and tear parts. A car that old it's probably a good idea to change these wear and tear parts.

For automatics you'll need to find out when was the last time the oil changed? And then whether it was modified with a ATF cooler or not. If not consider getting one into your budget

The higher the mileage of the Tezza the more wear and tear bits and pieces will need looking at. Oil seals, gaskets, bushes and potentially even driveshafts. All these things are wear and tear so check receipts if any and test drive cars to know what needs work.


Personally i would try to avoid BMW cause most friends and relatives have sold off their old ones due to a few headache in maintaining it. Like fix this part, the other parts becomes gone case. I didnt ask too in depth.. but just the summary of it made me quite skeptical of their running reliability. Then again, it could be the age of the car like you have mentioned. But this is all my personal view la (Hope no BMer's gets offended :sweatsmile:) and do correct me.
No one gets offended unless you flame someone directly.

Anyway BMWs F-series and G-series are newer and cost way more to maintain. The E36 and E46 generation of BMWs are older and cheaper to maintain. But they don't drive and feel like the newer cars la. E90 is when it starts to get more expensive to maintain but still cheaper than F and G.

For the 325i engine with inline 6 of 6L+ engine oil capacity, Im assuming a higher maintenance cost for regular interval services (E.g. Spark plugs & oil change)? Plus, roadtax is doubled from altezza being a 2.5L :frowning:.
Oh come on. 6L of oil isn't that much more mah. Roadtax is still 800+ vs 400+. Not that much more for smoother response and more powahhhh

Based on what i've gathered, i think altezza could be the balance? Have more performance than a Vios, though not as great performance as BMWs, but have the reliability to last like a Camry? that is IF, most of the major wear and tear parts are changed before driving out one.
Yes. Close to a Camry. But expect a little more cuz Camry no rear diff oil to change.

Btw wanna ask, i heard altezza always have this Lower arm bushing issues and ball join issues. Most of the bushings i can find on the web are "Hardrace" brands. They dont supply Original Toyota or any other alternative OEM bushings anymore for altezza?

And do coilovers replaces entirely the need for absorbers and springs? The stock absorber almost 3k for 4 sides :coldsweat:. If thats the case, wouldnt coilover be a better option?
Hardrace and Superpro should have bushes for the Tezza.

Coilovers are suspension sets la.. do you know what they are in the first place? 3k for 4 sides sounds like you're opting for original parts taken from Toyota directly. Did you check other options?

If 3k you probably should consider coilovers but coilovers will compromise your ride comfort. So you gotta find out what you want.