Most of the UY kaki got the coilovers dy....Wahhhhhh.....Take other ppl's car to test in UY.....Abit over right??? Hahahahahha
If UY, then we all test Izso car la.....Easy....Since he got coilovers at 7kg/5kg.....Must try....
Most of the UY kaki got the coilovers dy....Wahhhhhh.....Take other ppl's car to test in UY.....Abit over right??? Hahahahahha
If UY, then we all test Izso car la.....Easy....Since he got coilovers at 7kg/5kg.....Must try....
You not UY kaki also got...Most of the UY kaki got the coilovers dy....
Mine need because of heart transplant. Yours fitted because UY....hhahhahahhahaYou not UY kaki also got...
I change to adjustables because I takut roll on the floor wor...not because of UYMine need because of heart transplant. Yours fitted because UY....hhahhahahhaha
To roll on the floor must be pretty fast woh!I change to adjustables because I takut roll on the floor wor...not because of UY
Pretty much it already.All sifu, I will just try to explain a little bit to Marv about the damping and spring rate so don't shoot me la ok..I also noob....
Marv, for you information. definition of Spring rate means "How much weight is required to deflect/compress the spring an inch. the unit that is used is either in kg/mm or lb/in. So if you see a spring that has a rating of 8kg/mm vs another 1 with 6kg/mm. The 8Kg/mm will be a stiffer spring. different rating springs has it's own oscillation pattern (a softer spring will have a bigger, longer and wavy pattern while a stiffer spring will have a fast, narrow pattern). Imagine a pogo stick. It only has a spring when you apply a compressing force to the spring. It always wanted to react the opposite direction and this force will keep going and going (the oscillation pattern).
Then to damping. The main function of the damper is to control the oscillation motion of the spring (to keep it within control). The main thing to damping is the compression and rebound control. The damper will absorb shocks that will increase the oscillation motion of the spring which would send the spring bouncing out of control this is consider external force (road bumps, pot hole..etc) When you fiddle around with the damping setting. You are actually changing the wavelengths of the oscillation movement of the spring. With a hard damper setting, you will need more energy (kinetic energy) to move the piston inside as you are limiting the flow of the hydraulic fluid of the damper. With a softer damping, the damper required less kinetic energy to move the piston. This makes your ride able to absorb more of the bumps and holes and still able to control the spring's oscillation movement. On track, you need a harder damping setting because you want to limit the movement of the spring and damper to a more linear state quicker turn in response as track surface are smooth you do not need to worry about hitting a bump or holes that would upset the car's handling and also to control the load transfer during braking and accelerating. On daily road, you need to have more damping so that you car can stay planted on the floor even you run over holes or bumps, you do not want you car to jump or hop as this makes you lost traction and also to absorb the sudden external force.
Above is my understanding and 2 cents. Please correct me if I'm wrong...
This is sifu lah!....All sifu, I will just try to explain a little bit to Marv about the damping and spring rate so don't shoot me la ok..I also noob....
Marv, for you information. definition of Spring rate means "How much weight is required to deflect/compress the spring an inch. the unit that is used is either in kg/mm or lb/in. So if you see a spring that has a rating of 8kg/mm vs another 1 with 6kg/mm. The 8Kg/mm will be a stiffer spring. different rating springs has it's own oscillation pattern (a softer spring will have a bigger, longer and wavy pattern while a stiffer spring will have a fast, narrow pattern). Imagine a pogo stick. It only has a spring when you apply a compressing force to the spring. It always wanted to react the opposite direction and this force will keep going and going (the oscillation pattern).
Then to damping. The main function of the damper is to control the oscillation motion of the spring (to keep it within control). The main thing to damping is the compression and rebound control. The damper will absorb shocks that will increase the oscillation motion of the spring which would send the spring bouncing out of control this is consider external force (road bumps, pot hole..etc) When you fiddle around with the damping setting. You are actually changing the wavelengths of the oscillation movement of the spring. With a hard damper setting, you will need more energy (kinetic energy) to move the piston inside as you are limiting the flow of the hydraulic fluid of the damper. With a softer damping, the damper required less kinetic energy to move the piston. This makes your ride able to absorb more of the bumps and holes and still able to control the spring's oscillation movement. On track, you need a harder damping setting because you want to limit the movement of the spring and damper to a more linear state quicker turn in response as track surface are smooth you do not need to worry about hitting a bump or holes that would upset the car's handling and also to control the load transfer during braking and accelerating. On daily road, you need to have more damping so that you car can stay planted on the floor even you run over holes or bumps, you do not want you car to jump or hop as this makes you lost traction and also to absorb the sudden external force.
Above is my understanding and 2 cents. Please correct me if I'm wrong...
All sifu, I will just try to explain a little bit to Marv about the damping and spring rate so don't shoot me la ok..I also noob....
Marv, for you information. definition of Spring rate means "How much weight is required to deflect/compress the spring an inch. the unit that is used is either in kg/mm or lb/in. So if you see a spring that has a rating of 8kg/mm vs another 1 with 6kg/mm. The 8Kg/mm will be a stiffer spring. different rating springs has it's own oscillation pattern (a softer spring will have a bigger, longer and wavy pattern while a stiffer spring will have a fast, narrow pattern). Imagine a pogo stick. It only has a spring when you apply a compressing force to the spring. It always wanted to react the opposite direction and this force will keep going and going (the oscillation pattern).
Then to damping. The main function of the damper is to control the oscillation motion of the spring (to keep it within control). The main thing to damping is the compression and rebound control. The damper will absorb shocks that will increase the oscillation motion of the spring which would send the spring bouncing out of control this is consider external force (road bumps, pot hole..etc) When you fiddle around with the damping setting. You are actually changing the wavelengths of the oscillation movement of the spring. With a hard damper setting, you will need more energy (kinetic energy) to move the piston inside as you are limiting the flow of the hydraulic fluid of the damper. With a softer damping, the damper required less kinetic energy to move the piston. This makes your ride able to absorb more of the bumps and holes and still able to control the spring's oscillation movement. On track, you need a harder damping setting because you want to limit the movement of the spring and damper to a more linear state quicker turn in response as track surface are smooth you do not need to worry about hitting a bump or holes that would upset the car's handling and also to control the load transfer during braking and accelerating. On daily road, you need to have more damping so that you car can stay planted on the floor even you run over holes or bumps, you do not want you car to jump or hop as this makes you lost traction and also to absorb the sudden external force.
Above is my understanding and 2 cents. Please correct me if I'm wrong...
I'm no sifu...just a noob...This is sifu lah!....
Marv, below is a graph I took to show you about the oscillation of spring. It is describe as kinetic energy. It's just an example.Thank you so much for this detail and long write-up yo. Appreciate it......I just need to wrap my head around the correlations between the springs and dampers.
Sorry for the late reply, no problems man, I try to help wherever I can haha.Yooo.....Thats a good feedback/opinions/review. Thanks dude.
You are not using the original springs provided with the BC V1? Would you say the feedback/performance would be different if you were using the original springs that comes with the BC V1??
Handling TT?? Sounds good. Shall we set a date?? Hahahahahhaha.
Sorry for the late reply, no problems man, I try to help wherever I can haha.
Of course! I switched the rates, i'm using s.w.i.f.t springs (not from a suzuki swift, you can google them up) at a higher rate, front 9kg/mm and rear 6kg/mm, the original was 6kg/mm fronts and 4kg/mm rears. They could absorb bumps a lot better, but personally I find it lacking a bit of overall travel... and rebound. But that's just nitpicking la haha. I'm free the whole month, just tell me a date, time, and place.
Only problem is most TT is on Friday night. Kinda dilemma to choose which to go. If go to that one, then the other group bising u no join themNight time talk kok tt easier to organize......hhahhahahhah
You go to one for half and hour, then go to next one, then next one, show face at every tt the people cannot make noise.....hhahhahahahhahahaOnly problem is most TT is on Friday night. Kinda dilemma to choose which to go. If go to that one, then the other group bising u no join them
So if joining other group TT have to go secretly adi
TT butterfly.....HahahahhahaYou go to one for half and hour, then go to next one, then next one, show face at every tt the people cannot make noise.....hhahhahahahhahaha
He needs your turbo to reach in time......hhahahhahahTT butterfly.....Hahahahhaha
So can keep using 215/45R17 then. Choices a lot and cheaper also.....Yesterday I started to fiddle with my damper stiffness.
Front 8k springs, 30 clicks max - I went to adjust 2 clicks stiffness
Rear 6k springs, 30 clicks max - I adjusted 8 clicks stiffness.
Now got stock comfort already with 17" 45 profile bumpiness. Not bad wor
what I meant was I got back my "stock" comfort when I was using oem absorbers + 45 profile tyres. I still want to upsize to 50 or 55.So can keep using 215/45R17 then. Choices a lot and cheaper also.....
I tried on mine, when go fast on uneven road it bounces a lot......:hmmmm:
50 series less tyre choices, 55 got to change to 16" but I don't think can clear your BBK right?what I meant was I got back my "stock" comfort when I was using oem absorbers + 45 profile tyres. I still want to upsize to 50 or 55.
Never too late.......lolNow only discover this thread.
Should have join ZTH earlier.