opinion on ice setup

[khairi-j]

hi n good day to all

need zth opinion on dis matter..dis is my 1st time want to setup ice in old myvi. after do some google n reading dis is what i hv in my mind. i want to put an amp n cs only so no hu..but if got opinion for new amp n cs with good quality n performance dat can low my budget pls let me knw. aso can i knw gross figure for installation of the amp n cs in kota damansara n b.jalil area (as i read this post, most ppl propose CV Audio Uptown Damansara n EA Autoworks Bukit Jalil) tqvm

amp is choice between dis 2

1) JBL GTO-804EZ 4-CHANNEL CLASS A B CAR AMPLIFIER (RM800)
Features:
•4-Channel GTO Series Class AB Car Amplifier
•RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 80 watts x 4 chan.
2 ohms: 100 watts x 4 chan.
Bridged; 4 ohms: 200 watts x 2 chan.
•Max power output: 235 watts x 4 chan.
•LED power (green) and protect (red) indicators
•Variable Bass Boost (0 to +12 dB bass boost at 50Hz)
•Soft start turn-on
•Gain LED indicators for proper gain adjustment
•4/3/2 channel operation
•Heavy duty aluminum alloy heat-sink
•Nickel-plated RCA level inputs & screw terminals
•Input sensitivity:
Low level: 125mV-5V
High level: 250mV-10V
•Variable low-pass & low-pass filter (40-220 Hz, 24dB/octave)
•CEA-2006 compliant amplifier
•Frequency response: 20-23000 Hz

2) PIONEER GM D8604 RMS CLASS FD 4 CHANNEL AMPLIFIER (RM780)
Features:
GM Digital Series 4-Channel Class D Car Amplifier
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 100 watts x 4 chan.
2 ohms: 150 watts x 4 chan.
1 ohm: 125 watts x 4 chan.
Bridged, 4 ohms: 300 watts x 2 chan.
Max power output: 600 watts x 2 chan.
Pulse Width Modulated MOSFET power supply
Wired remote bass level control included
LED power (green) and protect (red) indicators
4/3/2 channel operation
Speaker-level (high-level) inputs with signal sensing for automatic turn-on
Preamp RCA outputs to daisy chain multiple amps
3-way protection circuitry (thermal, overload, and speaker short protection)
High-density split-dome convection heat-sink for extreme heat dissipation
Nickel-plated RCA level inputs & screw terminals
Input sensitivity:
Low level: 200mV-6.5V
High level: 0.8V-16V
Variable high-pass & low-pass filter (40-500 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
CEA-2006 compliant amplifier
Frequency response: 40-50,000 Hz

for component speakers i choose dis 1 but i think its kinda expensive

INFINITY KAPPA 60.9CS 6.5 COMPONENT SYSTEM SET (RM650)
DESCRIPTION:
The component system includes; 2 Woovers, 2 Tweeters, 2 Crossovers
6-1/2" / 6-3/4", 2-Way Car Audio Loudspeaker component system
Low-distortion, low-Q woofer motor
Plus One woven-glass-fiber woofer cone with hi-roll rubber surround
1" Ultra-high frequency textile dome tweeter
I-Mount tweeter-mounting kit with Starfish O.E.M. adapter
Adapters included for most domestic and imported applications
2-way external crossover network with tweeter level adjustment, poly caps and air core inductors
True Four Ohm Impedance technology: speaker's 2-ohm impedance combines with speaker wire impedance for a 4-ohm load
Compatible with virtually all factory or aftermarket car stereos)
Sensitivity: 93dB
Frequency response: 45Hz-35kHz
Power handling: 90W RMS
Power handling: 270W Peak
Top mount depth: 2-7/16"

 

[Waiora_ProTuner]

No subwoofer? Put small one la..10inch..
Already got 4 channel amplifier there...

 

[Izso]

Did EA or CV recommend those? Cuz I think you can do better.

 

[khairi-j]

Waiora do i need to install subwoofer coz d cs already hv woofer...
Izso i not yet going to those shop yet..dat setup is in my to do list...before i go to audio shop better i ask pro zth ppl here whether my setup is ok or not..or others got opinion on other amp n cs with lower price oso can...u said i can do better in my setup..may i knw ur opinion...is those thing pricey for their spec:hmmmm:

 

[Izso]

Waiora do i need to install subwoofer coz d cs already hv woofer...
Izso i not yet going to those shop yet..dat setup is in my to do list...before i go to audio shop better i ask pro zth ppl here whether my setup is ok or not..or others got opinion on other amp n cs with lower price oso can...u said i can do better in my setup..may i knw ur opinion...is those thing pricey for their spec:hmmmm:

What I'm saying is unless you're getting them free you can do better with the same money. I don't know whether that's pricey or not but I don't like some of the equipment there.

CS woofer is just a midbass. The woofer Waja was talking about is those underseat woofers or a full-on subwoofer. Those provide a different bass compared to the CS woofer (commonly know as a midbass). Trust me when I say the CS midbass is not enough.

 

[khairi-j]

Ok understand.so your suggestion with that amt of money i can get better spec.but wht kind of amp,cs n subwoofer u suggest.

 

[Izso]

Whats your budget exactly? Cuz different installers have different opinions on how install stuff.

Personally I believe a good installation is better than having good equipment. For Myvis you'll need to customize your door panels to fit 6.5" or 5" midbass from those components. There's currently two ways to customize the Myvi door, the CV Audio way and the everyone-else way. CV Audio puts the midbass at above knee level on the door panel. Others usually put it at the foot level. Then there's the question of your budget, if you're on a tight budget, you may not even need an amp to work this out. My Myvi is using stock player, Rainbow entry level components and a rogers active subwoofer under the seat. That's it and I can tell you it will out do that infinity setup you suggested. I've a friend who has a similar setup except is using a Helix Dark Blue sub and uses amps to power his Rainbows, recently added a HU and his sound is on a different level than mine. Door panels the same and same Myvi.

So it really depends on your budget and how far you are willing to go.

 

[khairi-j]

Thanks izso for d info.my budget is within range 1500-2000 n i want to add amp n replace stock speaker..n now will include woofer under seat as suggest by u n waiora..player remain stock.

 

[twistedichc]

Thanks izso for d info.my budget is within range 1500-2000 n i want to add amp n replace stock speaker..n now will include woofer under seat as suggest by u n waiora..player remain stock.

to have a power amp, u don't need a really good hu, if it were me, the moolah will go for a good pre-amp, 4channel amp (300w/channel min), 1 channel for 1 superb 12"sub, 1 channel for midbass/tweeter speaker for front door, 2 channel for back cs (must consist of 8" mid bass, 6" cone & 1 hella tweeter)

 

[Izso]

Thanks izso for d info.my budget is within range 1500-2000 n i want to add amp n replace stock speaker..n now will include woofer under seat as suggest by u n waiora..player remain stock.

And that's exactly how much I paid to get my setup done. Door panels, new component set and underseat subwoofer plus installation. CV Audio Uptown Damansara. Suggest you actually go there and ask to demo his Myvi. From there you can gauge how good (or bad) it is. Stock player too.

to have a power amp, u don't need a really good hu, if it were me, the moolah will go for a good pre-amp, 4channel amp (300w/channel min), 1 channel for 1 superb 12"sub, 1 channel for midbass/tweeter speaker for front door, 2 channel for back cs (must consist of 8" mid bass, 6" cone & 1 hella tweeter)

Erm.. that's really overkill. And pre-amps are not really a necessity. Come come let's ICE TT

 

[vr2turbo]

And that's exactly how much I paid to get my setup done. Door panels, new component set and underseat subwoofer plus installation. CV Audio Uptown Damansara. Suggest you actually go there and ask to demo his Myvi. From there you can gauge how good (or bad) it is. Stock player too.



Erm.. that's really overkill. And pre-amps are not really a necessity. Come come let's ICE TT

ha! ha! now Ice TT also....:rolleyes:

My setup even more simple but sound should be quite far from you all SQ kakis. Speakers power by HU, only sub powered by small amp. Front 2 way component, 4" mid bass on dash, rear 6 x 9, 2 way speakers.

 

[twistedichc]

Erm.. that's really overkill. And pre-amps are not really a necessity. Come come let's ICE TT[/QUOTE]

overkill meh not so laaa this 1 below is overkill, wonder how many batt this gus uses:hmmmm:

 

[vr2turbo]

overkill meh not so laaa this 1 below is overkill, wonder how many batt this gus uses:hmmmm:

This one is not overkill, but demo vehicle. My company had 2 of them, a Honda Stream and a Toyota Celica. The Honda Stream is a 2 seater....ha! ha! Behind is molding, speakers, amps etc. etc...
The Celica is not lowered, but sits like lowered because full of amps, speakers etc. etc...

When run on the car battery more then half of them are shut down. To run everything at the same time it runs on AC 240v 60amp and hook onto a transformer to power these sets.
At a demo once they supply us, normal 15 amp extension and by half day the plug melted....

 

[ronaldindin]

off topic, is it necessary to install amp for CS?

 

[Waiora_ProTuner]

What I'm saying is unless you're getting them free you can do better with the same money. I don't know whether that's pricey or not but I don't like some of the equipment there.

CS woofer is just a midbass. The woofer Waja was talking about is those underseat woofers or a full-on subwoofer. Those provide a different bass compared to the CS woofer (commonly know as a midbass). Trust me when I say the CS midbass is not enough.

Who is Waja?

off topic, is it necessary to install amp for CS?

nope..but it will give better sound on higher volume..

underseat subwoofer won't do much...but its better than nothing..
and it saves you on space for sub and cost for an amp...
p/s: i think its around RM700-800...pricey..

without amp better get proper/suitable front component..as the supply from HU i think about 15-20watt only...
too big speaker, will loose the bass..


My setup are Boston Acoustic 2-way component, 10" Illusion Audio Subwoofer (shallow), Concept 4-channel amplifier..and sound insulation for 2 doors...Neo maa..
Stock HU..

For about RM4k, i think i can do better...:hmmmm: