Myth of Voltage stabilizer

[Darth Evillus]

expensive

well I am looking at fuel saving kits for my 4 year old myvi icon 1.5SE, currently its doing 13km per litre on 60 city 40 highway

And one of my trusted workshop suggested these, with tm works direct power harness, and supercircuit extractor

(+ I prefer not to turn my car into road bully with loud exhaust) haha.

 

[Izso]

well I am looking at fuel saving kits for my 4 year old myvi icon 1.5SE, currently its doing 13km per litre on 60 city 40 highway

And one of my trusted workshop suggested these, with tm works direct power harness, and supercircuit extractor

(+ I prefer not to turn my car into road bully with loud exhaust) haha.

I don't quite agree with the VS. I have not felt any difference with Inazma during the days I tested it. I've only ever had 2 types of VS that had some sort of effect. One was a DIY-ed one that used quite a lot of expensive parts (cost was RM130) and experimented by a electronics guy. It had some sort of affect on the pickup of the car which was interesting. Didn't improve anything else. The other VS was quite an old one that is no longer in production - it made the battery last 4 years and seemed to smooth out electronics (the lights dimmed less whenever the aircon compressor kicked in).

You want to improve FC the TM Works thing is going to smoothen out your plug coils and perhaps give a bit of extra torque. But the caveat is if your car is old - then it'll work great to make it "new again". A new car won't feel any difference. If you however increase the voltage output using stuff like the IgniteVSD and Alpha16V it'll probably help a bit with the spark side of things and improve combustion hence improving FC? I dunno. I wanna test this but it's not exactly cheap.

Then the extractor - yes and no. Depends. I dunno.

Aiya..if you want to improve FC there's loads you can do. Keep your car engine and everything in tip-top condition, use good oil, use good petrol, improve your spark everything, let engine breathe better (free flowing drop-in air filter, don't use open pod), lightweight rims and low-resistance tyres, plexiglass windows and stripped interior, stop using air-con and lighten the car, etc etc. It'll probably cost you more to save petrol than just driving with a brick behind your pedal.

Incidentally that last one is real - driving with the air-con off makes a huge difference. I have a 1st gen Myvi with a busted aircon compressor so I drive without aircon. Just open window and drive - and drive conservatively. I got 16.7km/L recently.

 

[Darth Evillus]

I don't quite agree with the VS. I have not felt any difference with Inazma during the days I tested it. I've only ever had 2 types of VS that had some sort of effect. One was a DIY-ed one that used quite a lot of expensive parts (cost was RM130) and experimented by a electronics guy. It had some sort of affect on the pickup of the car which was interesting. Didn't improve anything else. The other VS was quite an old one that is no longer in production - it made the battery last 4 years and seemed to smooth out electronics (the lights dimmed less whenever the aircon compressor kicked in).

You want to improve FC the TM Works thing is going to smoothen out your plug coils and perhaps give a bit of extra torque. But the caveat is if your car is old - then it'll work great to make it "new again". A new car won't feel any difference. If you however increase the voltage output using stuff like the IgniteVSD and Alpha16V it'll probably help a bit with the spark side of things and improve combustion hence improving FC? I dunno. I wanna test this but it's not exactly cheap.

Then the extractor - yes and no. Depends. I dunno.

Aiya..if you want to improve FC there's loads you can do. Keep your car engine and everything in tip-top condition, use good oil, use good petrol, improve your spark everything, let engine breathe better (free flowing drop-in air filter, don't use open pod), lightweight rims and low-resistance tyres, plexiglass windows and stripped interior, stop using air-con and lighten the car, etc etc. It'll probably cost you more to save petrol than just driving with a brick behind your pedal.

Incidentally that last one is real - driving with the air-con off makes a huge difference. I have a 1st gen Myvi with a busted aircon compressor so I drive without aircon. Just open window and drive - and drive conservatively. I got 16.7km/L recently.

bolded part done.
ron 95 enough la. no much diff also i tested

 

[Izso]

bolded part done.
ron 95 enough la. no much diff also i tested

I said "good petrol", I didn't ask you to go up in octane. Some say when they use Shell petrol it's super sluggish, some say Petron good, etc etc. Shop around and see what brand works best for you.

Also, how lightweight are your rims? I've only seen 2 really lightweight rims that are available in 15" size that I've seen people use. Advanti Storm S1 (4.8kg per rim) and the Enkei RPF1 rims. Is yours this light? Makes a huge difference in handling of the car and FC.

 

[Darth Evillus]

I said "good petrol", I didn't ask you to go up in octane. Some say when they use Shell petrol it's super sluggish, some say Petron good, etc etc. Shop around and see what brand works best for you.

Also, how lightweight are your rims? I've only seen 2 really lightweight rims that are available in 15" size that I've seen people use. Advanti Storm S1 (4.8kg per rim) and the Enkei RPF1 rims. Is yours this light? Makes a huge difference in handling of the car and FC.

I am only using BHP or Caltex (bec of their singapore refineries and euro 3 standard - altho not sure now whether they still keep that as their website no longer said so haha)
BHP gives best mileage (with Shell but shell is sluggish on my another car latio sedan)
Caltex gives the smoothest pickup (by feeling only la)
I do run ron 97 if I know not much jam weekdays on PLUS - could get 15 km per litre on 140kph consistent

I am using inforged rims, its about 6ish kg. the Advanti DST rims are about 5kg, I only add about 4 kg?! extra. Is that alot?

 

[Izso]

I am using inforged rims, its about 6ish kg. the Advanti DST rims are about 5kg, I only add about 4 kg?! extra. Is that alot?

You'd be surprised how much of a difference the weight difference is.

 

[Darth Evillus]

You'd be surprised how much of a difference the weight difference is.

Thats very interesting. Considering I always pump full tank. Then to optimise the condition dont pump full tank, i.e full tank for this car is about 31 L (excluding the reserves), I pump 27L to compensate logic anot

 

[sweelt]

You'd be surprised how much of a difference the weight difference is.

very surprised actually when i jump from 7kg rpo1 chicken brand to used ori ssr 3.95kg iinm. I din count how much petrol.
but overall feel lighter. Ahhhh i need to cut my weight too...wakakaka

 

[vr2turbo]

very surprised actually when i jump from 7kg rpo1 chicken brand to used ori ssr 3.95kg iinm. I din count how much petrol.
but overall feel lighter. Ahhhh i need to cut my weight too...wakakaka

You reduce rim weight then add on own weight, no difference......hhahahhaha

 

[Izso]

Thats very interesting. Considering I always pump full tank. Then to optimise the condition dont pump full tank, i.e full tank for this car is about 31 L (excluding the reserves), I pump 27L to compensate logic anot

Actually.... that does make sense. LOL... but you're better off removing unnecessary weight from the car to lighten it. Will definitely help.

very surprised actually when i jump from 7kg rpo1 chicken brand to used ori ssr 3.95kg iinm. I din count how much petrol.
but overall feel lighter. Ahhhh i need to cut my weight too...wakakaka

I didn't know SSR was so light! That's even lighter than the Enkei RPF1

 

[6UE5t]

...

You want to improve FC the TM Works thing is going to smoothen out your plug coils and perhaps give a bit of extra torque. But the caveat is if your car is old - then it'll work great to make it "new again". A new car won't feel any difference. If you however increase the voltage output using stuff like the IgniteVSD and Alpha16V it'll probably help a bit with the spark side of things and improve combustion hence improving FC? I dunno. I wanna test this but it's not exactly cheap.
...

I'm also considering to try the TM Works for my sons SSS. I saw in mudah just under rm600.

...
I didn't know SSR was so light! That's even lighter than the Enkei RPF1

SSR Type-C if not mistaken is already forged type or at least semi solid forging while RPF1 is still MAT casting type so understandable if RPF1 is heavier. There should be quite a few rims that are even lighter than RPF1 like Racing Hart CP035, Spoon SW388/Regamaster Evo, VR CE28N just to name a few.

 

[ixeo]

RPF1 is cheaper, much cheaper than SSR Type C

RPF1’s MAT technology is now commonly known as flow forging, flow forming, rotary forging etc.

http://speed.academy/why-wheel-manufacturing-method-load-rating-matter/

When I was researching wheels, VOLK CE28N was the lightest.

 

[6UE5t]

RPF1 is cheaper, much cheaper than SSR Type C

RPF1’s MAT technology is now commonly known as flow forging, flow forming, rotary forging etc.

http://speed.academy/why-wheel-manufacturing-method-load-rating-matter/

When I was researching wheels, VOLK CE28N was the lightest.

Racing Hart CP035 should be even lighter I think.

 

[vr2turbo]

From VS, now talk about rims dy.......

 

[ixeo]

I'm also considering to try the TM Works for my sons SSS. I saw in mudah just under rm600.



SSR Type-C if not mistaken is already forged type or at least semi solid forging while RPF1 is still MAT casting type so understandable if RPF1 is heavier. There should be quite a few rims that are even lighter than RPF1 like Racing Hart CP035, Spoon SW388/Regamaster Evo, VR CE28N just to name a few.

RM600 not worth it. Better off spending money on other things. I think induction kits work better than a TM Works electricthingamagic. If I remember correctly years ago i came across a catalogue for the Monster carbon induction kit for SSS... damn sexy.