4g92p stock ecu

[dking91]

i will try using others maf sensor..
the overhaul process not done correctly....

 

[GEFORCEXTREME]

Can you take a video of the car at idling (open bonet, start car, record video for one or two minutes), upload to Youtube or something? That way, we can understand better, also I want to know how the valve bocor sounds like. Sure you have a video camera or smartphone right?

 

[dking91]

Can you take a video of the car at idling (open bonet, start car, record video for one or two minutes), upload to Youtube or something? That way, we can understand better, also I want to know how the valve bocor sounds like. Sure you have a video camera or smartphone right?

i will try take video... this video taken after changing the mufler from previous trompet hks hi power-proton satria 4g92 sohc - YouTube
current sound after upgrade ecu and AFR will take later.. but just using old version of mini galaxy :(

the formen said got valve bocor after checking each injector using scanner

 

[dking91]

4g92p cold start exhaust sound - YouTube
new video...checked the compression result from left(distributor side) 75psi 98psi 85psi 90psi
see the FPR i set 6kg/cm2++

thats the condition of my spark plug

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

4g92p cold start exhaust sound - YouTube
new video...checked the compression result from left(distributor side) 75psi 98psi 85psi 90psi
see the FPR i set 6kg/cm2++

thats the condition of my spark plug

macam piston ring/valve got leak...

and running lean

 

[GEFORCEXTREME]

The idle sounds ok, no? How is the distributor, is it set to too advance? Try retard it a little?

---------- Post added at 11:07 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:04 AM ----------

I don't know about the correct cylinder pressure, but seems low?

 

[dking91]

macam piston ring/valve got leak...

and running lean

yup valve kompem got leak...and the mixture maybe too lean..the fuel regulator alrdy set at 6kg/cm2++
i will try using another ecu..after i got 1..i think its like the ecu control the injector to open a bit only and we need to put high pressure to overcome that.

---------- Post added at 04:22 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:19 AM ----------

The idle sounds ok, no? How is the distributor, is it set to too advance? Try retard it a little?

---------- Post added at 11:07 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:04 AM ----------

I don't know about the correct cylinder pressure, but seems low?

if i turn the distributor to be more retard, the sound will be worst..buurpp burrpp burrrp sound...
how much the compression should be?? i watch youtube the compression for mivec/vtec 200++ so mine should be 100++ <200 right with skimmed head..

 

[GEFORCEXTREME]

Cylinder pressure, not sure how much they should be, try asking around. But 70-80 vs 200 is too much off right? Besides, a skimmed head should have increased compression.

 

[dking91]

Cylinder pressure, not sure how much they should be, try asking around. But 70-80 vs 200 is too much off right? Besides, a skimmed head should have increased compression.

yah..even with oversize pistons..

 

[dking91]

update: just change the ecu wif 2291 eci+rechip..now fuel regulator set to 2kg/cm2++ finally back to normal..but got another issue.. when step to padel, the engine 1st stall like to stop need to rev abit..the worse case when a/c on..rpm drop very bad and sumtime the engine die even during drive at low speed(gear 1 looking for parking) what maybe the causes??

 

[k0pi]

update: just change the ecu wif 2291 eci+rechip..now fuel regulator set to 2kg/cm2++ finally back to normal..but got another issue.. when step to padel, the engine 1st stall like to stop need to rev abit..the worse case when a/c on..rpm drop very bad and sumtime the engine die even during drive at low speed(gear 1 looking for parking) what maybe the causes??

hi dking... just a few suggestions :

1. have you checked all vacuum ports in and out of the intake manifold if they are connected properly including from the rocker cover to the air ram, manifold to rocker cover, throttle body vacuum hoses to the Fast Idle Control (FIC-MMC) unit located at the firewall, and from FIC to the intake manifold, connection to the EGR valve way under the throttle body, stuck to the intake manifold? Vacuum leaks commonly cause this sort of problem to G92/3 SOHCs (and sends false message throttle body's ISC at fault)... vacuum press too low in the vacuum circulation system will fail the FIC to actuate proper air control (purposedly force rev by the ISC leaking air from throttle body) into the intake, causing engine burdened by the a/c compressor drag to lose out. Or the ISC unit at the throttle body itself, especially the gears inside it - at fault and unable to open the valve that leaks air into the manifold.

2. have you tried advancing the ignition timing (by 1mm @ 2deg+-) and see if it's getting better or no improvement? Advancing ignition in the cylinder improves vacuum pressure a bit but this method is limited as it may lead to severe knocking. It it works - it does mean your vacuum circulation system have a leak or spoiled ISC motor/circuit.

3. If you have SAFC-II, check you TPS positioning voltage signal - might as well adjust the TB's TPS (Etc. > Sensor Chk > Thrt :) 0.49V to 0.51V position (if running on stock cams), or seek advise from mechanics who can tap a voltmeter to the TPS and do the adjustment. TPS set [V] value being lower than 0.40V can also cause the same symptom, unless your engine's ignition is high (nearly max out). Reminder - if you do so, you may see the fuel pressure increase - adjust the FP accordingly after adjusting the TPS.

Other than that -
a. are you using adjustable cam gear and adjusted it to be advanced?
b. are you using reprofiled camshaft, hi cam or wild cam?
c. are you experiencing miss ignition (little disturbances to the engine) while cruising at RPMs lower than 3400? (these disturbances clears out when throttle opened up)

 

[dking91]

1- i hv check all vacuum..just change certain vacuum hose also
2-hv tried advanced and retard the timing
3-no safc2..
no other performance parts..all stock..
c-only knocking abit..
i went to tuner shop yesterday and today also..all 3 tuner said their obd scanner cant detect my ecu.... the ecu running too rich..event i set the FR at 1.5bar++..its like the mixture going crazy...any ideas y that happen??does the ecu not compatible wif my car? i think 2291 ecu come from 1.6 sohc overseas/europe model...now using stended ecu while try to solve the problem :(

 

[k0pi]

this one's pretty mysterious to think of and tracing back your posts - I could only guess some of your valves are bent since it still knocks. Rev high upto 6000rpm, release the throttle - and if you hear the 'krenggg' before its down to 2500rpm - bent valves.

how injectors work with ECU and AFR, ECU can only control the amount of fuel injected (pulsewidth) into the engine through closing and opening rate per second of the injector (and 'when' it shoots depending on crank angle sensor feedback on top of the distributor for the 92p), while AFR only function to control the fuel pressure in the line to exact how much milliliter of fuel injected by the injector everytime it opens. Normally for 92p with 184cc injectors - about 4.6bar stock, 3.8bar leanest (RON95 fuel) at some AFR 13.0 - 13.2@1000rpm with reasonable knock (and heat).

How ECU determines the injection rate per minute depends on electronic feedback from some sensors like the mass airflow sensor (MAF), knock sensor and throttle position sensor (TPS). it may be the issue of compatibility with the 2291 ECU with the OE 92p sensors feedback. I googled the code and can't find any Mitsu ECU with this code. This may lead to a very long guessing game where went wrong. But since you have changed to the stock ECU, how's it behaving?


p/s : you live in Dungun bro?

 

[dking91]

im not sure if valve bent or not but sure got "leak valve".. now im back to pekan pahang finished my last semester there...
the behavior like i said before black smoke, when revving at certain rpm like 5-6 rpm stuck...when try to drive the car, it will die... for sure the mixture too rich since the plugs change to dark colour... and what i dun understand obd scanner cant read my ecu.. i hv tried play with the ignition and fuel pressure but still did not change anything..

one of the tuner said he can try do rewiring to make the ecu work..im not sure about that...

 

[k0pi]

haf to wait for the rewiring result.... this one sort of problem I am very curious. I did had almost the same problem like you last year (quick fouled plugs, bad compression, low vacuum pressure at idling - impossible to turn on aircond whle idling), but it wasn't caused by wiring or ecu, it was bad block (piston rings, bearing, cylinder surface).. months before... my engine oil burnt out completely in just 3000km without excess burn or white smoke coming out. Then followed by overheat, nearly blown head gasket (but leaked compressed air into the water jacket and cooling system - non stop fine bubbles coming out at the radiator) and 6 out of 8 intake valves bent.

Eventually solved the problem with engine rebuilt.