My 2L B-Series N/A Project

[shiroitenshi]

Still synchro,,but i heard locally can fabricate dog match with synchro,,,hmm have to meet up the "person" then. j101 throttle is quick ?? then he must be lying when he said that his response is "ok" only:shades_smile:

Why would you still need a synchro? I thought that with dogboxes, you can simply force a shift, although at the expense of wear? and having straight cut gears that a dogbox, would offer better lastability compared to the normal ones, which was designed with noise considerations?

 

[chris2000]

update 5/3/07

And update for the guys following this thread.

I ordered for a forged I-Beam rods to be custom Teflon coated but was instead sent a set of Forged H-Beam Teflon quoted. Bloody americans didn't even tell that the I-Beam no stock for few months. I-Beams were lighter but H-Beams can withstand more abuse.

Anyway, if you guys wonder why i coated them, it's cause proven in USA that the coating repels oil giving less oil windage power loss.

Wanted to coat my crank but work out the cost to be too expensive to send to USA and back to Malaysia.

This forged H-Beam custom coated has ARP 2000 rod bolts installed and they are slightly thicker than Eagle rods so they will take more abuse and stronger than Eagle.

See the below pictures:-

 

[shiroitenshi]

And update for the guys following this thread.

I ordered for a forged I-Beam rods to be custom Teflon coated but was instead sent a set of Forged H-Beam Teflon quoted. Bloody americans didn't even tell that the I-Beam no stock for few months. I-Beams were lighter but H-Beams can withstand more abuse.

Anyway, if you guys wonder why i coated them, it's cause proven in USA that the coating repels oil giving less oil windage power loss.

Wanted to coat my crank but work out the cost to be too expensive to send to USA and back to Malaysia.

This forged H-Beam custom coated has ARP 2000 rod bolts installed and they are slightly thicker than Eagle rods so they will take more abuse and stronger than Eagle.

See the below pictures:-

So what make are they? And how roughly would it cost for the avg. Malaysian? Super expensive or...????

As for the H-beam and I-beam designs, lighter vs. stronger eh? That's something new.. I always though they were a gimmicky design feature, with either providing better performance than the other.

 

[chris2000]

They are custom made for USA. Without coatings they are priced very competitive to Eagles but with coatings they will cost about RM600 to RM800 more. I suspect they come from similar factory as eagle or eagle competitor.

But these are design to be beefier than eagles.

H-Beams are cheaper to make and design due to the processing difference of the two. Generally H-Beams are stronger to withstand more power hence normally used in turbo engines.

I-Beam/A-Beams are harder to make and processing them are more expensive, but they remove more weight or shift the reciprocating weight hence are generally lighter. A popular design among NA/All motor applications. But normally can take less abuse but for NA application is more than enough.

 

[shiroitenshi]

They are custom made for USA. Without coatings they are priced very competitive to Eagles but with coatings they will cost about RM600 to RM800 more. I suspect they come from similar factory as eagle or eagle competitor.

But these are design to be beefier than eagles.

So they aren't absurdly expensive then... hmmm... :evilgrin:

But isn't beefier = heavier? and more vibrations during high rpm?

 

[chris2000]

yup, the H-Beam that i'm using is slightly heavier then the H-Beam eagles by about 5-10gms. These were meant for extreme power like nitrous or turbo use.

Thats why i actually wanted the I-Beams which are about 15gms lighter than eagle and the perfect choices for NA build. Bloody mat salleh!! :(

 

[shiroitenshi]

Is there no return policy on those? Ouch!

Well, it's either you sell it and order and wait for the I-beam version or use them.
Wonder how will your engine perform, since you're using these kinds of parts to eke out every little HP there is.

Just hope that 5-10gms don't affect too much.

 

[chris2000]

They did have return policy but the cost to send them back to USA and send back to me wll cost a bomb which i can save to buy something else for the build. hehe..

And i don't want to wait any longer cause i waited 2 months + for these to receive not the most ideal i wanted for the NA build.

Anyway, its still slightly lighter than stock, stronger than stock and custom teflon coating to gain back some oil windage power loss. :)

 

[crower75]

Chris,

Newbie question here, dun flame me arr heheh :-

Let's say if Mr. T wants to plonk in a 2 liter all standard internals, no mods to pistons, crank in short a virgin B20 along with standard B16A head and internals, is it safe for the engine to run with no engine management ? Is it sufficient just to log data via Innovate and then re chip the ECU ?

 

[avantasia]

ermm i dun think that mr T using standard B16A head!!!!!! he told me that head already port & polish

 

[crower75]

ok la...ported and polished B16A head ...... *grrrrrrr*

 

[avantasia]

haiya, mr T told me la.......dun angry with me aaa

 

[chris2000]

Chris,

Newbie question here, dun flame me arr heheh :-

Let's say if Mr. T wants to plonk in a 2 liter all standard internals, no mods to pistons, crank in short a virgin B20 along with standard B16A head and internals, is it safe for the engine to run with no engine management ? Is it sufficient just to log data via Innovate and then re chip the ECU ?

Hai ya, over 4000 post not newbie lio. hehe..

From my understanding only (you need to double check as i may not be 100% right,

B20B P3F piston Compression 9+:1
B20Z PHK piston Compression 10.2+:1

For a street setup with mild cams like OEM B16A cams, the car should run ok but don't expect to make power close to 200whp. I suspect maybe 160-170whp but will have high torque.

One of the reason is the low compression pistons on them.

You got to be very careful with cam selection on stock B20B block. This is because the pistons are not made for vtec and does not have sufficient valve relief pockets on them. So when you use higher cams even like CTR or more aggressive, you may end up having your valve hit the stock B20 pistons and say bye bye to your engine.

That is why alot of people change to 85mm H/F series pistons that give the valve relief and higher compression to make more power. Other alternative in USA are ITR design cast piston in 84, 84.5 and 85mm size.

I suggest you have at least a proper A/F meter to monitor A/F or in dyno just to make sure your car is not too lean. Then when budget permits, do a proper road/dyno tune.

I were told stock B20B rods are only good and safe up to 8000rpm. Anything consistenly higher than that will see a spun bearing.

Hope this will help you, but you better double check with your tuner/builder cause i'm no builder nor tuner. Just info and knowledge i gather to share with you guys.

 

[hattech-v]

wahhh... mr t now doing big project... hehehehe

 

[chris2000]

errr... who is Mr T??