Dynos in Malaysia

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Izso

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Izso

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If you didn't know already there are multiple types of Dynos in Malaysia and each have their quirks and differences.

The "heart breaker" dynos are Mainline and Mustang (there's more but right now I'm only focusing on those that I know are in Malaysia). These dynos have heavy loads resulting in lower HP numbers but usually on-point AFR tuning on and off-load. Tuners have mentioned that Mainline dynos are generally safer as there's more parameters to monitor when tuning.

Dynojet has two types of dynos in Malaysia, 2WD and 4WD. To my knowledge only GTAuto Sunway has the 4WD and is the only 4WD dyno in Malaysia. I could be wrong, if you know of any others please share. Dynojet numbers usually are 20-30% higher than Mainline, meaning if you have 180bhp on Mainline, chances are you'll get over 200bhp on Dynojet dynos. The load on Dynojet machines are adjustable like the others but usually is much much lighter than the heartbreakers hence the higher numbers.

A lot of average Joes out there don't know of this difference and blame headbreaker dynos as being inaccurate and all that but personally I prefer Mainline purely because of the close-to-perfect results it gives tuners (in terms of AFR, humidity, the heavy load simulating on-road conditions, etc). Having said that though if the tuner is aware of the differences in dynos and tunes with that in mind regardless of whether it's Dynojet or Mainline, a good tuner would be able to set up your car pretty well.

There's also hub-dynos where you take out your rims and the dyno connects directly to your hub and I hear results are similar to Mainline. I've never come across a hub-dyno but I heard there are a few around.

Whats your take on dynos and why?
 

ixeo

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ixeo

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I thought the more common heartbreaker dyno in Malaysia is Dyno Dynamics from Australia?

http://www.zerotohundred.com/forums/index.php?threads/dynos-in-msia.106410/

Actually if you go to one dyno, then stick to that dyno... put it this way, assuming you have 2 weighing scales.. 1 is calibrated and accurate. the other one reads higher by 3hp..

comparing the same car, on these two dynos will net different results
but what you want to do is test the same car, with mods, on the same dyno, so that you create a baseline on the dyno, then continue to dyno there to monitor/map the differences.

I think its silly going around different dynos.
 

Izso

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Izso

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I thought the more common heartbreaker dyno in Malaysia is Dyno Dynamics from Australia?

http://www.zerotohundred.com/forums/index.php?threads/dynos-in-msia.106410/

Actually if you go to one dyno, then stick to that dyno... put it this way, assuming you have 2 weighing scales.. 1 is calibrated and accurate. the other one reads higher by 3hp..

comparing the same car, on these two dynos will net different results
but what you want to do is test the same car, with mods, on the same dyno, so that you create a baseline on the dyno, then continue to dyno there to monitor/map the differences.

I think its silly going around different dynos.
I think it depends on the load. In terms of calibration and accuracy it depends on whether the owners service their machines.

Dynojet in M'sia isn't as heavy as Mainline apparently.
 

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I think it depends on the load. In terms of calibration and accuracy it depends on whether the owners service their machines.

Dynojet in M'sia isn't as heavy as Mainline apparently.
Even one is heavy and one is not, after calibration shouldn't it read as close figures as possible. 20 to 30% difference is hell of a lot.......
 

brokenjars

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Actually most common one is butt dyno in Malaysia
after change to JTX 1000 GOLD straight away can feel more powerful
accelerate harder
JTX 1000 GOLD with technology Tribology. Lel, want to simply put at term also at least understand what tribology means.
 

6UE5t

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6UE5t

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So which shops are good to dyno? Good meaning good equipment and also care in setting up/strapping the car for safety etc2.
 

Izso

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Even one is heavy and one is not, after calibration shouldn't it read as close figures as possible. 20 to 30% difference is hell of a lot.......
When you calibrate you calibrate all the settings and readings. The load is something you determine on your own prior to tuning. Load is supposed to simulate real world conditions. Too light a load and you may end up tuning it too lean when on the road and etc etc
 

Izso

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So which shops are good to dyno? Good meaning good equipment and also care in setting up/strapping the car for safety etc2.
I'd say just go for tuners that are reputable. If you're just looking to go for a fun run on a dyno, the usual suspects like GTAuto and all are fine. Personally I wouldn't want to "fun run" my car on a dyno cuz you'll never know what'll break when revved like that.
 
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Izso

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Even one is heavy and one is not, after calibration shouldn't it read as close figures as possible. 20 to 30% difference is hell of a lot.......
Let me try to explain a bit more.

Load - in this case is how heavy the rollers are on the ground (the rollers your tyres are sitting on). If you set it heavy then it's more likely to simulate real world road situations, sticky tyres, etc. If you set it to turn very easily then your wheels will turn easily therefore your tuning and dyno readings would be a bit skewed higher. 20-30% is a lot but that's because of load.
 

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Actually you got it completely wrong man. Whether the dyno is a 'heartbreaker' or not depends on the calibration and have NOTHING at all to do with the 'load'. Even dyno figures from different operator running the same dyno can be different. That's why if you want to do a comparison, just stick to the same operator. If all you want to do is a power run to compare before and after mod power levels, any dyno would do, as long as it is the same dyno and operator, but if you were to go serious in a proper tune job with steady state and all, you would need a load bearing dyno.

Generally there are 2 type of dynos, Inertia dyno where it uses a fixed roller mass and calculates hp by the time taken for that fixed mass to spin up, or a load-bearing eddy-current dyno, where the energy is absorbed by a electromagnetic retarder and the energy produced and RPM is calculated to obtain the power figures. Generally inertia dynos have very good repeatability and can often be paired together with a retarder to get the best of both world. Dynojet is an inertial dyno in it's core but it can be paired with a retarder. Many cheaper dyno operators use the base Dynojet which does not have a retarder so tuning on that would not be able to give you a complete tune, or at least will require more time and effort as it cannot do steady state. GTAuto have 2 dynojets, one of them have a retarder while the other doesn't if I am not mistaken.

Mainline, Dyno Dynamics are pure eddy current dynos and adjusts the retarder load on the fly depending on the power to control the rate of acceleration. 'pure on road simulation' is probably just what the tuner tells you but Mainline ain't really more accurate in 'simulating on road conditions' than any other dyno with a retarder. Accuracy of the AFR tuning in the end depends on the tuner and how patient he is. Some tuners just run WOT tune and calls it a day, skipping the most important and most time consuming part-throttle tune.
 

vr2turbo

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I'd say just go for tuners that are reputable. If you're just looking to go for a fun run on a dyno, the usual suspects like GTAuto and all are fine. Personally I wouldn't want to "fun run" my car on a dyno cuz you'll never know what'll break when revved like that.
Dyno, sure do mod loh, for fun when engine blow no fun already........lol
 

Izso

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Actually you got it completely wrong man. Whether the dyno is a 'heartbreaker' or not depends on the calibration and have NOTHING at all to do with the 'load'. Even dyno figures from different operator running the same dyno can be different. That's why if you want to do a comparison, just stick to the same operator. If all you want to do is a power run to compare before and after mod power levels, any dyno would do, as long as it is the same dyno and operator, but if you were to go serious in a proper tune job with steady state and all, you would need a load bearing dyno.

Generally there are 2 type of dynos, Inertia dyno where it uses a fixed roller mass and calculates hp by the time taken for that fixed mass to spin up, or a load-bearing eddy-current dyno, where the energy is absorbed by a electromagnetic retarder and the energy produced and RPM is calculated to obtain the power figures. Generally inertia dynos have very good repeatability and can often be paired together with a retarder to get the best of both world. Dynojet is an inertial dyno in it's core but it can be paired with a retarder. Many cheaper dyno operators use the base Dynojet which does not have a retarder so tuning on that would not be able to give you a complete tune, or at least will require more time and effort as it cannot do steady state. GTAuto have 2 dynojets, one of them have a retarder while the other doesn't if I am not mistaken.

Mainline, Dyno Dynamics are pure eddy current dynos and adjusts the retarder load on the fly depending on the power to control the rate of acceleration. 'pure on road simulation' is probably just what the tuner tells you but Mainline ain't really more accurate in 'simulating on road conditions' than any other dyno with a retarder. Accuracy of the AFR tuning in the end depends on the tuner and how patient he is. Some tuners just run WOT tune and calls it a day, skipping the most important and most time consuming part-throttle tune.
Ah that's good info *two thumbs up*. Eloquently put
 

6UE5t

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I'd say just go for tuners that are reputable. If you're just looking to go for a fun run on a dyno, the usual suspects like GTAuto and all are fine. Personally I wouldn't want to "fun run" my car on a dyno cuz you'll never know what'll break when revved like that.
My tuner shop doesn't have dyno so usually need to rent. Usually he goes to Millennium if not mistaken but heard it's now under repair/service so need to find another place.
 

Izso

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My tuner shop doesn't have dyno so usually need to rent. Usually he goes to Millennium if not mistaken but heard it's now under repair/service so need to find another place.
Yup. My tuner doesn't have his own dyno either. He rents Mainline, Dynojet and all that depending on what car he's tuning.
 

marsha1l_v6

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Dynojet has two types of dynos in Malaysia, 2WD and 4WD. To my knowledge only GTAuto Sunway has the 4WD and is the only 4WD dyno in Malaysia. I could be wrong, if you know of any others please share. Dynojet numbers usually are 20-30% higher than Mainline,



There's also hub-dynos where you take out your rims and the dyno connects directly to your hub and I hear results are similar to Mainline. I've never come across a hub-dyno but I heard there are a few around.

Whats your take on dynos and why?
I've been through dyno 4 time. 3 time dynojet 1 time mainline. yes result is around 3x% difference but afr stable tune on mainline compared with dynojet. But, different tuner.

ken racing dynojet able to do awd. shop behind ken has awd dyno as well.

KLG auto at klang, quite near with autbacs, has hub-dyno, iirc its mustang.

my take on dynos, just go with your tuner. after tune, then pay few hundred for few run on dyno to get result and frame it. hahaha
 
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6UE5t

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6UE5t

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I've been through dyno 4 time. 3 time dynojet 1 time mainline. yes result is around 3x% difference but afr stable tune on mainline compared with dynojet. But, different tuner.

ken racing dynojet able to do awd. shop behind ken has awd dyno as well.

KLG auto at klang, quite near with autbacs, has hub-dyno, iirc its mustang.

my take on dynos, just go with your tuner. after tune, then pay few hundred for few run on dyno to get result and frame it. hahaha
Wah KLG Auto is close to my place. Thx for the info. Do you know how much they charge?