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[DIY] Flush ATF and change filter

Discussion in 'Do-It-Yourself Garage' started by Izso, Aug 16, 2011.

  1. punk

    punk Senior Member
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    izso doing with flushing.
    look at last step
     
  2. Izso

    Izso Boooooossst
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    Yeah, as punk pointed out, I was flushing. If you just did a drop and refill without removing the ATF filter, it's about 2L and with the ATF filter removed, it's about 3L like yours.
     
  3. me2kimi

    me2kimi Senior Member
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    Hi all. sorry to revive old thread. Can I use engine oil flush to flush atf? Im afraid it will harm a/t component inside.
    The reason i want to flush & clean it coz it has sluggish and hard shifting. My a/t also did not have a sump and also don't have filter.
    I assume it already sludge inside.

    Or do you guys have any suggestion to clear ATF sludge?
     
  4. vr2turbo

    vr2turbo 5 Year | Silver
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    ATF should not have sludge like engine oil. Is not hot enough and it has no contact with the combustion chamber. ATF flush is to change all the fluid inside the ATF system, meaning hoses, torque converter etc....:driver:
     
  5. Izso

    Izso Boooooossst
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    What car is yours oh? No filter and no sump for A/T is odd.

    Sluggish and hard shifting might be the oil you're using is not suitable for the tranny or you might have a problem with the gears itself. Sludge is highly unlikely unless you've never changed the oil for 5+ years or something. Use a ATF flush or the bluechem flush, those are quite good. Run through with clean oil a few times and drain everything out.

    Eh.. why am I explaining all this? me2kimi is a sifu level forummer la. apalaaaaaaaaaaaaa
     
  6. vr2turbo

    vr2turbo 5 Year | Silver
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    He ask to test us is it?......hahhahahhahahhahahah:rofl::rofl:
     
  7. ^pomen_GTR^

    ^pomen_GTR^ Senior Member
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    should have sump..atleast small type or maybe the sump located in front of the gearbox (*or perhaps at the back) like campro gearbox the sump was in front rite??
     
  8. me2kimi

    me2kimi Senior Member
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    Hahaha...I'm not joking or testing laaa...
    My car is Charade Ascend (Espri sedan). It is true, it got no a/t sump and filter. same like m/t gearbox.
    I have changed atf once using produa D3, but still got intermittent hard shifting.
    It feel annoying when had to vroom vroom vroom at mamak or shop just to engage reverse gear.
    Is it ok if I use other type of atf? What type of atf could be use?
     
  9. vr2turbo

    vr2turbo 5 Year | Silver
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    If changing brands make sure they are compatible. For my wife's SUV, I am using Penzzoil Multi Vehicle ATF. Bought cheap at UMW warehouse sale.
    You can probably try Lubegard ATF additive also.....:driver:
     
  10. Kevinho

    Kevinho Member

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    Hi Izso,
    Is it possible to do this without a gasket removal tool ?
    I'm trying to find online to buy a gasket removal tool but the ones i found was MYR75.00
     
  11. gunnerzz

    gunnerzz 5 Year | Silver

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    thats the 'sarang semut' cover.

    anyway on campro i will jack up the right hand side of the vehicle to remove more old atf as the drain plug is on the side.
    not sure if this is a good practice or not but moving the gear lever to all position back and forth will drain more atf.engine off or course.
     
  12. vr2turbo

    vr2turbo 5 Year | Silver
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    Want to remove all old atf better do flush
     
  13. Izso

    Izso Boooooossst
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    Old school method is to use a knife and cut but this is verrrrrrrrrrrrrry time consuming and much more difficult without the tool. Just need patience.
     
  14. Kevinho

    Kevinho Member

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    Okay, noted.
    Thanks Izso !
     
  15. Kevinho

    Kevinho Member

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    http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f101/removing-oil-pan-368722/
    like how this guy did it using thin knife

    @Eyelise - As you consider various tools to remove your oil pan, it is also useful to consider the nature of the joint you are trying to disassemble.

    Mating surfaces joined by a sealant will perform at their best when the gap between them is uniform and an appropriate dimension for the particular sealer in use. At one extreme, squeezing all the sealer out depends on metal-to-metal contact (usually a poor seal), while a very large gap may exceed the sealer's ability to resist heat and pressure.

    The pressure in the oil sump is pretty low, so the seal between the block and the pan mainly needs to prevent leaks from splashing and weeping. That's not a very challenging condition for the current crop of form-a-gasket type materials. Permatex (manufacturers of Right Stuff) doesn't specify a min or max film thickness, but I have great confidence that it would span a 1/16" irregularity beyond the normal film thickness and still seal an oil pan. It could probably handle an even bigger gap.

    If you create 1/16" gouges in your block or oil pan sealing surfaces while removing the pan, you're probably ham handed - but - you'll still be able to easily reseal the pan when it comes time to reinstall it. So use whatever tools work for you. I'm not a big fan of the typical "oil pan separator" tools. Every time I've used one, they've left unnecessary gouges on the mating surfaces. I usually start by scoring the sealer all the way around with a thin knife (X-Acto, utility knife, etc.). Then I use a combination of putty knives, flat blade screwdrivers and even a spoon adjuster for brake drums (looks like a little crowbar) to pry the pan off. Ease of access (or any access at all) usually dictates what tools I use. Once you get a small area separated, work from that point all the way around the perimeter, peeling the pan off the block as you go.

    If you do create minor defects in the sealing surfaces, remove any burrs with a small file and some 400 grit sandpaper, then carry on. There's no doubt getting that first bit of pan separated from the block can be frustrating, but once you do, it is usually just a minute of work after that to completely remove the pan.
     
  16. Izso

    Izso Boooooossst
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    Well if you're interested in a gasket removal tool and a paint scraper, come we DIY and you can try both. Then only decide which one is the right method for you. I got my tools at non ACE-Hardware places. ACE tends to be more expensive (significantly more) although their variety is extensive. Places like MTIS and Knights Auto are way cheaper and also have shitloads of tools. I don't recommend a knife btw, I've done this method before and snapped the blade which was a bitch to remove.
     
  17. Kevinho

    Kevinho Member

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    Nice, paint scrapers also known as putty knife, I read alot of people use this to separate the oil pan.

    Jom DIY, when you free bro ?
     
  18. Izso

    Izso Boooooossst
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    What exactly do you want to do first? I'll need to plan a weekend if it's a big job
     
  19. Kevinho

    Kevinho Member

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    Hmmm,
    My ATF oil change is over due 2000 km.
    My absorber mounting got kluk kluk sound Dy.
    One of my absorber is leaking, needa change Dy.

    , Damn alot of stuff needa change but I think we can just start with ATF filter change and flush first. The others I think I can handle since I also need to spend some time on writing my thesis as well. Don't wanna use so much of your time also.
     
  20. gunnerzz

    gunnerzz 5 Year | Silver

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    Do one shot lah bro,there is 2 of u.
    It will be like a therapy session for Iszo.

    Drain the atf then change the absorber and mounting.this way u dont waste time waiting for the atf to flow out.
     

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