[DIY] Automatic Gearbox Cooler

[cincaluk]

looking back, i think i didn't i fill in the ATF fast enough..they were time when i'm a bit confused & stop pouring as i can't differentiate the color of old oil & the new one..i think at that time, i just pour around 1 liter of ATF & the oil been drained looks clean, i stop pouring to look at the container while the engine still running...probably that caused the gear box running dry?

any other symptom that i should look into to confirm if its the oil pump? i'll try to check the hoses after work today...got a nagging feeling that both side are hot after i took the car for a spin after the mod...

when you say bad, how bad is bad? i'm using the car everyday travelling from seremban to KL & i'm also not a light footer

thx

 

[Izso]

Thinking back, my case was more severe than yours since I was driving with almost no oil for a good 15 minutes and it was smoking by the time I got back home. I don't think the pump is that fragile? Mine's a Myvi, whats yours? Perhaps your cooler has a clog? Suggest you take it out and have a quick check?

 

[cincaluk]

mine is myvi 1.3...hmm..i think i'll take it out this weekend & have a look. I've ordered the 1402 as well..probably i'll fit that in & install this 1403 on my other car later. is it possible that the pressure drop due to the length of oil cooler generates the problem?

I assume that after we shut the engine, all the oil will be sucked back to the sump & when we start the engine again, then will it circulate through the rest of the system..if this is the case, probably, due tot he extra length the 1403 provide, it takes time for it to circulate properly..i can try to top up the gear oil up to the hot limit of the stick & see the effect?

btw, i've yet able to check the hoses whether its hot or cold on either side after driving. will try to do it today..

thx

 

[Izso]

mine is myvi 1.3...hmm..i think i'll take it out this weekend & have a look. I've ordered the 1402 as well..probably i'll fit that in & install this 1403 on my other car later. is it possible that the pressure drop due to the length of oil cooler generates the problem?

I assume that after we shut the engine, all the oil will be sucked back to the sump & when we start the engine again, then will it circulate through the rest of the system..if this is the case, probably, due tot he extra length the 1403 provide, it takes time for it to circulate properly..i can try to top up the gear oil up to the hot limit of the stick & see the effect?

btw, i've yet able to check the hoses whether its hot or cold on either side after driving. will try to do it today..

thx

I don't think the oil will be "sucked back" into the sump. When you shut down the car the pump stops working and the oil will just 'stand still'. How big is your 1403 anyway? Take some pics la.

Btw, the correct way to fill ATF is to drive until the car is warm enough (usually about 15 mintues) then measure your ATF level. It should be between the hot and cold markers with the max being at hot. If you overfill it'll be sluggish and if you underfill it'll be jerky.

 

[sarled]

When you shut your engine the oil drains back to the sump. But the hoses will still have enough appreciable difference in temp for you to tell which one is in/out. That's why you have to be a little quick on your feet to do this.

---------- Post added at 11:18 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:14 PM ----------

I don't think the oil will be "sucked back" into the sump. When you shut down the car the pump stops working and the oil will just 'stand still'. How big is your 1403 anyway? Take some pics la.

Btw, the correct way to fill ATF is to drive until the car is warm enough (usually about 15 mintues) then measure your ATF level. It should be between the hot and cold markers with the max being at hot. If you overfill it'll be sluggish and if you underfill it'll be jerky.

Don't forget ATF level should be checked with your engine warmed up AND running (gear in P is safer than in N).

 

[cincaluk]

was down for few days due to flu...can't do anything on past weekened...i'll try to do it this week & take some picture on the 1403 as well..

i've touched both hoses after coming back from work...both are hot, but i noticed that the inlet hose is hotter than the outlet from oil cooler..but then, probably the outlet located really close to the exhaust manifold cover & that's the reason for it to be hot? I'll try to reroute the hoses when doing the change later..

thx izso & sarled for the feedback so far

 

[sarled]

i noticed that the inlet hose is hotter than the outlet from oil cooler..but then, probably the outlet located really close to the exhaust manifold cover & that's the reason for it to be hot? I'll try to reroute the hoses when doing the change later..

thx izso & sarled for the feedback so far

Errmmm..... that's normal. Inlet to the oil cooler must be hotter than outlet mah. Otherwise, no cooling would have taken place.

 

[cincaluk]

some update, problem seems to be 90% solved except for the bit grinding sound... I decided to just pour in another ~ 300ml gear oil last week..the 1st problem with gear not enggaging seems to be cured..I assume now that I didn't put in enough oil in the first place..

My fault was probably checking the gear oil level without the engine running. after sarled posted that i should check the level with the engine running (I normally check the level after coming back from work, immediately cut the engine off & pop the hood to check the level) the level seems to be a bit lower than "H" marking..

Now that i've run the engine possibly with low oil for the past 3 weeks, I can just assume that the grinding sound won't dissipate..probably the lack of oil has made some of the gear part permanent damaged..

anyway, this is a good lesson learnt. I will still continue to change the 1403 to my other car & install the new 1402 on this myvi & reroute the hose as well..

thx izso & sarled in guiding me to resolve this

 

[vr2turbo]

Grinding sound, try adding in Lubeguard ATF additive.....

 

[sarled]

Great. At least we solved part of your problems. Yeah, if you already made some mechanical damage you can't do much to fix it anymore. Perhaps like VR2 said, try some additives. If it's been proven by some forummers. Good luck.

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

btw...always remember...

to check ATF level...engine must keep running on idle and gear selector put on "N" position....

 

[Izso]

and hot too. no point checking on cold

 

[g9000z]

Hi, sorry to bring up old post.
I read through this thread and decided to get one ATF cooler for an Atos. Search in halfcut and found a Pajero oil cooler.
Is this oil cooler too big for my ATF, I asked some ppl they said is too big, so I'm here for some opinions.
Thanks in advance

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

Hi, sorry to bring up old post.
I read through this thread and decided to get one ATF cooler for an Atos. Search in halfcut and found a Pajero oil cooler.
Is this oil cooler too big for my ATF, I asked some ppl they said is too big, so I'm here for some opinions.
Thanks in advance

it is quite big....

but i dont think it would cause any damage...probably rpm shift point/lock-up point changed a bit

 

[g9000z]

it is quite big....

but i dont think it would cause any damage...probably rpm shift point/lock-up point changed a bit

Hmm, should I go back and change to a smaller sized one?
Since the halfcut tauke say I can come back to change unit if not satisfied.
how many rows is recommended for a small car actually?