Whats d best alluminium radiator for EG in tracks?

[Sil80-13]

Hi guys,

Currently my B18CR is using B16A short type original radiator. So far there is no heating issue driving in jam town & sometimes drag for awhile. Thinking of upgrade my radiator to full alluminium radiator as I plan to track in SIC. Saw alot of after market full alluminium local made like Jasma, taiwai made & also Infinite.

Anyone try above alluminium radiator before in tracks? Any comments? As Koyorad & those Japan brandeds is way to far for my budget.

1. Is it better to upgrade the short type radiator to DC2 long time radiator for B18CR? As I know that ori DC2 long time radiator is alluminium radiator but 1 row only. Is this enough to use in SIC tracks?

Hope sifus can give value opinion...

 

[tecque]

B18cr rad is enough... better than u buy taiwan made..

 

[Sil80-13]

B18cr rad is enough... better than u buy taiwan made..

Yo bro,

Thanks for the reply...

 

[newuy]

yeap..the B18C-R radiator is very good already.
you might want to try some cold-air intake for your air filter(make sure got heatshield), and cold air to your brakes as well to hit sepang.
what brake calipers and brake pads u r using?
for small car like eg, u wouldn;t need big 4-pot calipers..prelude BB caliper or EK9 caliper with good brake pads is good enough.

 

[arrowhead]

i switched to eg9 auto (double layer) radiator and its fine... no problems... but i am using coolant la..

 

[JINEIL2EN]

the best...
ARC & Spoon race version...

prepare rm6k 1st if really wan 1...

 

[akuma]

watch out whn u wana purchase all those aftermarket aluminium radiators...i haf no personal experience w them but frm my observations,they r more 4 cosmetic purpose rather thn superior cooling effect....come on,RM3XX/4XX 4 a FULL alluminium radiator?honestly,too cheap 2 really work if ur serious abt track driving.....d core on dis radiators r usually too wide/far apart whc actually means u haf LESSER water passage!
changing to a DC2R aluminium radiator,tho 1 layer,is good enuff...but i think u'll hafta redo ur a/c too....
m running a full length copper type radiator on my ol skool EF(whc cost me RM550!)....so far so good..but i was forced 2 take out my thermostat due 2 my very small engine bay..not enuff space 4 heat 2 escape...hence d removal of d thermostat really help alot...never did my Greddy mechanical water temp gauge show over 100'C in SIC.
good luck.

 

[Sil80-13]

watch out whn u wana purchase all those aftermarket aluminium radiators...i haf no personal experience w them but frm my observations,they r more 4 cosmetic purpose rather thn superior cooling effect....come on,RM3XX/4XX 4 a FULL alluminium radiator?honestly,too cheap 2 really work if ur serious abt track driving.....d core on dis radiators r usually too wide/far apart whc actually means u haf LESSER water passage!
changing to a DC2R aluminium radiator,tho 1 layer,is good enuff...but i think u'll hafta redo ur a/c too....
m running a full length copper type radiator on my ol skool EF(whc cost me RM550!)....so far so good..but i was forced 2 take out my thermostat due 2 my very small engine bay..not enuff space 4 heat 2 escape...hence d removal of d thermostat really help alot...never did my Greddy mechanical water temp gauge show over 100'C in SIC.
good luck.

thanks for the info. I already plan to get DC2 radiator & also need to convert the air cond condenser to long type one...

 

[Sil80-13]

Before I go for upgrade, current the B16A radiator short type I am using is alluminium as well but top is plastic. Is this good enough for SIC track?

 

[Ceffy_999]

Hi guys,

Just wondering which one below is better for track use. Need you guys to input some info.

1. Ori B18CR single layer alluminium radiator - Item from half cut

2. KOYO NOT alluminium. Normal but double layer thicker than ori B18CR radiator - Item from half cut

Which one is better? 1 is alluminium but single layer but another one is double layer but non alluminium.

By the way, I saw the KOYO radiator below got 1 sticker written Manufacturer from Indonesia. Is this a genuine KOYO?

---------- Post added at 10:38 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:35 AM ----------

watch out whn u wana purchase all those aftermarket aluminium radiators...i haf no personal experience w them but frm my observations,they r more 4 cosmetic purpose rather thn superior cooling effect....come on,RM3XX/4XX 4 a FULL alluminium radiator?honestly,too cheap 2 really work if ur serious abt track driving.....d core on dis radiators r usually too wide/far apart whc actually means u haf LESSER water passage!
changing to a DC2R aluminium radiator,tho 1 layer,is good enuff...but i think u'll hafta redo ur a/c too....
m running a full length copper type radiator on my ol skool EF(whc cost me RM550!)....so far so good..but i was forced 2 take out my thermostat due 2 my very small engine bay..not enuff space 4 heat 2 escape...hence d removal of d thermostat really help alot...never did my Greddy mechanical water temp gauge show over 100'C in SIC.
good luck.

Akuma,

Just want to check with you. In SIC, water temp reading in gauge should not exceed how much? And also example like normal car temp meter when halft between C & H, what's the reading in aftermarket watert temp gauge? 90'C ?

 

[testpower]

just share an info. my fren used taiwan made radiator in SIC got overheating problem after 2 round. then he change to Standard ek9 double layer radiator, the temp prob solved. so, standard ek9 radiator should be enough when using in track.

 

[akuma]

i'm running a mechanical Greddy water temp gauge....not too sure how accurate it is but 4 OTD sessions,my temp usually hover ard 90'C...sumtimes almost touching 100'C depending on d weather....n 2 all those DOHC VTEC kakis,it's not adviseable 2 keep on running whn ur temp has hit 100'C.

n like i sed,dun b smitten by aluminium radiators just coz they look good n it's like d IN thg 2 haf in ur car nowadays..understand how a radiator works n thn check properly d construction of d radiator ur interested in....coz in reality,a proper double layer copper radiator alone can cost up to RM500.....so,u can calculate urself a full aluminium radiator @ d same price,wud they really work?unless ur talking abt d core alone being full aluminium n still utilising plastic top & bottom,thn prices ard RM500 is possible.

rule of thumb my mech taught me whn purchasing radiator.check out d size n numbers of water passage.double layer doesn't guarantee it's better also.thn check d proximity of d fins.too far apart won gif u enuff cooling effect,but of coz it's cheaper 2 produce.less material n less tedious process.

again i stress here,i'm not saying wat works n wat not,just sharing my experience.so,pls,if i offended any1 w my posting,dun hate me,ok?
cheers

 

[shiroitenshi]

I think that standard one is enough, if you replace the thermostat/remove it completely, or use a lower temp fanswitch.

The heat the engine generates relates to the compression you're running. If you run high comp, high temp is probably common, if you're running the standard 10.5-11, the standard radiator with thermostat and/or fanswitch mod works fine.

Got a 2.1L B20B here using standard B16A rad, drive about 800km continuously also heat temps stay about 90ish.

Standard running temp for normal honda engine is 80-90+degs celcius. a bit higher is ok, but like akuma says, if it's very close to 100ish, you need to look at the cooling system.

Got 2.1L here

 

[akuma]

shiro,
i agree w ur statements.....but it's kinda slightly different whn ur driving in track....coz depending d track layout too,air flow 2 d cooling system varies....n it's definitely lower thn normal daily driving...so,sumtimes even w a stock engine,depending on how hard d driver is pushing d car,d stock radiator might not b sufficient....
n yes,i prefer 2 ditch d thermostate totally...1 less item 2 worry abt.....experienced jammed thermostate TWICE oredy...n it's not a very nice experience!hahahahahah

 

[Ceffy_999]

Bro Akuma,

Actually what is the difference if we remove the thermostat? Any side effect to the engine?

Which mean remove d thermostat is much more better than changing those low temp thermostat. Right ?