Dynotuned today! Standard vr4

Danny

500 RPM
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At last, after long hessitation I went to do a dynotune today at N1 (not my no.1 choice but bought something from them so it costs RM100 only).

Previous setting on safc
throttle position - low 20% high 70%
low : -20% to -15%
high - 0 - 5%

After dynotune
throttle position - low 30% high 50% (quite a wierd setting)
low : -40 to -35
high : -8 to +8

Boost at 0.9 bar : 172.3 on wheel
Boost at 1.2 bar : 187.5 on wheel

* Acc to the tuner, the current fuel pump (Evo 3) could be malfunctioning at high boost as there isn't enough fuel even with +8 settings & advised to get a more powerful fuel pump. At 1.2 bar the air/fuel ratio on boost was at 12.8 while at 0.9 bar it was at 11.8.

Question - is the diagnosis of the tuner correct? ie. fuel pump needs upgrade? Or would a fuel regulator help? Not going for great guns here... but would like to hit 200 on wheel. Everything is stock standard Vr4 200 with the exception of metal gasket and 510cc injectors.
 
Pretty good u achieve if yours is stock VRr 200.

If u r running at 1.2 bar, better get a fuel pump and a piggyback.
 
Originally posted by moppy@Sep 7 2004, 10:51 PM
Pretty good u achieve if yours is stock VRr 200.

If u r running at 1.2 bar, better get a fuel pump and a piggyback.
Wow danny!

172 @ 0.9 bar is impressive for stock VR4.

Your engine is Cylone VR4 200hp rite? The 200hp is rated at the flywheel.

If we take into consideration the drivetrain loss (about 20~30 hp), 172 on wheel hp is quite good.

Congrats lar!!

Yes! I think fuel regulator will help richen the A/F ratio.

Still using the stock VR4 filter ah, upgrade lar, can easily pick up another 10~15 hp from a simple air filter upgrade.
 
wah congrats danny.180 hp....a very good result......as for my member,his evo3 engine,manage to get 209.9 hp....dyno at DMT....boosting at 0.7 bar...stock evo3 inside a putra(change to NGK cable plug with NGK iridium spark plug)...another 60 hp gone from japan...ehheheheheh...:D.....very brave of u running at 1.2 bar....but i think vr4 con rods can handle and the bearings is slightly bigger than evo's....but 1.2 bar....hmmm....better get a FSE fuel regulator or sard fuel regulator....equip with a good single plate clutch such as exedy,os giken( this brand got or not single plate?)....a good pressure plate n cover plate...i think the car will be at the best running condition...n be sure to tune air fuel ratio..that's what i think laa....
 
get malpassi/fse fuel regulator, 1000cc injectors,to4r,cams,standalone ecu,2x bosch fuel pumps and u should make 400bhps
hehehe
 
good one vteckiller....hehehehhe....n also go find a straightcut gearbox.....quaife from UK ker( but xpensive laaa,try improve on your gearbox)........go n search for japanese car magazine.....front cover evo5 yellow 600bhp....inside got jap tech answer....review about dogbox engagement system for turbo..part 2.....quite interesting.....how your synchro gone..stuff's like that....peace....trying to share some info with u guys...:D
 
moppy - what other fuel pumps u recommend that is slightly better than evo 3? Also what piggyback? I think the safc at the most can set -ve 50%. At my current settings already -40% due to overfuelling at low throttle, but at high throttle, it is a bit on the lean side (the leanest it went was 12.3 a/f ratio).

joeker - boring la, 172 only at 0.9 bar..keke considered standard specs la for vr4. Was hoping to run 1.2-1.5 bar with the current settings but the evo 3 pump could not handle it, potong stim, will try adding a fuel regulator to see if it helps.

p_evo3, already running exedy clutch, so don't have any clutch slip

vteckiller - heheh a bit overkill la, 1000cc sure massive overfuelling without any aftermarket ecu..that also cannot beat your project car :)
 
hey Danny, not bad....
after reading your post, i start to get itchy hand wanna go dyno also...

can you explain in more detail what actualli goes through during a dyno tune?
how does your car feel after? more fuel saving?
 
Originally posted by Danny@Sep 8 2004, 11:09 AM
moppy - what other fuel pumps u recommend that is slightly better than evo 3? Also what piggyback? I think the safc at the most can set -ve 50%. At my current settings already -40% due to overfuelling at low throttle, but at high throttle, it is a bit on the lean side (the leanest it went was 12.3 a/f ratio).

Get any fuel pump which is over 190L. Many ppl using Walbro. Some of my friend using SARD and they are good. I think there's one 230L/h if I am not mistaken. Actually 190L enough for u to play until 280bhp, just imagine evo 4 above specs but can u get a new 190L/h fuel pump? If u want to boost at 1.2 or 1.3 bar, better replace your injector.
At 1.2 to 1.3 bar u r looking at over 200bhp on wheel. So to play safe :D better replace some parts. Remember VR4 is quite old engine and all the parts might decrease the working perfomance, as well as injector. Have u get it clean b4 u dyno it? Last time my friend had a problem of 4 injectors, 2 are not equal flow.

About piggyback, the most value for money is E Manage.
 
wannnna buy my external walbro??
feel like geting an in-tank walbro but have to find the bracket+float first... :(
and yes congrats danny 172 on a satria.. can fly loh...
i got 160 on my car also feels like crawling :(
 
ok...now i understand....if want to boost higher....need as well as a good fuel pump,bigger injectors and a fuel regulator....okies.....how's your daily driving with exedy danny?how much is walbro fuel pump?
 
moppy - just used the injector liquid cleaner(not sure if this is enough) , already upgraded from 450 to 510cc, thats why at low throttle overfuelling, had to set -ve 40% fuel intake after the dyno was done. will consider sard and walbro next. I heard sard is good because although it is small, it produces high output and you can fit in almost every type of fuel tank.

ccl - how old is your walbro and what is the rating? is it noisy since it is used externally?

rein - at the dyno they rembak your engine kow kow until fuel cut and then check your hp & fuel map. After that, they will adjust the settings to the optimum level ie. if too rich they will set it leaner and if too lean at certain points they will richen it until it reaches the optimum level. For low throttle settings it should be close to 14 a/f ratio (ie lean) & at high throttle (when boost comes in) it should be rich ie. close to 11 air fuel ratio. I think the fuel consumtion should improve now and the throttle response is better.
 
Danny....they rembak one time kau kau...or they rembak once...then tune then rembak again...then tune then rembak till the setting correct?
 
everytime also must rembak until fuel cut la...heheh so make sure your car is freshly serviced and tip top condition before sending it for dyno.
 
ngek ngek ngek
mine i bought RM500+
bcoz i bring in myself from US
yahla abit noisy after whacking the car hard... :(
but watodo...
eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee all the way
rated 255lph
 
Originally posted by CcL@Sep 8 2004, 03:31 PM
ngek ngek ngek
mine i bought RM500+
bcoz i bring in myself from US
yahla abit noisy after whacking the car hard... :(
but watodo...
eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee all the way
rated 255lph
CcL,
if u are willing to let go the fuel pump for RM200, do pm me.

if u think the price i offered is too low, dont take offence. that's all that i can afford.
 
Danny, good base figure you have here for a standad VR4 200... add a few mods and that will go up.

Just wondering if you want to let go your 450cc injectors? My GSR ones are leaning out at the top end. Let me know if they are still with you and if you want to sell em..

cheers
 
Originally posted by Danny@Sep 8 2004, 12:10 PM
moppy - just used the injector liquid cleaner(not sure if this is enough) , already upgraded from 450 to 510cc, thats why at low throttle overfuelling, had to set -ve 40% fuel intake after the dyno was done. will consider sard and walbro next. I heard sard is good because although it is small, it produces high output and you can fit in almost every type of fuel tank.

ccl - how old is your walbro and what is the rating? is it noisy since it is used externally?

rein - at the dyno they rembak your engine kow kow until fuel cut and then check your hp & fuel map. After that, they will adjust the settings to the optimum level ie. if too rich they will set it leaner and if too lean at certain points they will richen it until it reaches the optimum level. For low throttle settings it should be close to 14 a/f ratio (ie lean) & at high throttle (when boost comes in) it should be rich ie. close to 11 air fuel ratio. I think the fuel consumtion should improve now and the throttle response is better.
The liquid cleaner can use but u still cannot see whether the injector is clean or not. Take it out is the best way cos when u put into the vessel u can see clearly the injector flow.

450cc injector? Is it from vr4 rs one? If is then 240hp is not a problem.

I heard a lot of mechanics in KL area cincai mari. Got a friend driving a Vr4 converted not sure what model la. Cos the engine like many parts rojak already. Check the injector is 550cc and claimed by a mechanics is EVO injector. How come, evo only 560cc. Finally found out is from 13B. The most keng one boost up to 1.8 bar, close to 1.9 actually.. still running internal stock. :unsure:

Therefore, danny my best advice is take the injector out and check it carefully whether is 510 or whatever. Somemore u can clean it and check the injection/flow ma :D
 
danny, crazy lar you 180atw oso you not happy kekeke. congrats btw!

just wanted to ask, how is your exedy? which model?
 

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