YRV Engine

if me play myvi k3-vet first thing to do after that was put widebodykit+wide tyre+wide wheels+hilosofthard suspension+full front and rear antirollbar (the biggest available) and brake upgrades front and rear....


when to think back about the cost...i'll skip those and keep my satria chassis if i really want to play turbo featherweight category
 
if me play myvi k3-vet first thing to do after that was put widebodykit+wide tyre+wide wheels+hilosofthard suspension+full front and rear antirollbar (the biggest available) and brake upgrades front and rear....


when to think back about the cost...i'll skip those and keep my satria chassis if i really want to play turbo featherweight category

Exhaust leh? :biggrin:
 
But then surely the kelisa will be faster than the 1.8 then? in terms of power to weight ratio.
If it were to perform the same.



Dangerous to play if cant control :biggrin:

130hp on light chassis versus 140hp on slightly heavier chassis...should be similar....

Haha! Launched time faster only xD

Because the 1.8 Wira is using manual transmission so pick up is faster I guess? About top speed, I'm not sure which one is faster but if it is in high speed, I'd rather be inside a Wira than a small Kelisa. :rofl:
 
oh really.. no wonder one of my close frend really wanted to get that engine rather that the turbo one.. quite impressive.. by he's one auto tranny.. but still big smile..
 
u r rite.. some piston were design for NA and it is normally high comp. It cannot withstand certain amount of boost, unless u r using aftermarket forged piston... maybe the owners can do some research on the internal of K3ve2 and share some info with us.. hehe
 
I'll say if the drive is auto, then get a k3vet while if the drive is manual, a bot with cap on low boost can do. All depend on the user's preference and target. Got a friend of mine installed a k3vet on his myvi and upgraded the turbo, boosting 1.5 bar and on dyno the power output is 180whp but the turbo lag was damn annoying as the boost only start kicking in after 5k rpm on the 1st gear lol.
 
waa... 5k start kicks? probably need something to do wit the turbin.. either change the exhaust housing to smaller size or change the whole turbine.. that current setup is not suitable for street. that setup is only for drag race.. but depends on the owner if he likes..
 
I'll say if the drive is auto, then get a k3vet while if the drive is manual, a bot with cap on low boost can do. All depend on the user's preference and target. Got a friend of mine installed a k3vet on his myvi and upgraded the turbo, boosting 1.5 bar and on dyno the power output is 180whp but the turbo lag was damn annoying as the boost only start kicking in after 5k rpm on the 1st gear lol.

Woah, your friend push the K3-VET too much already. 180hp in Myvi. :adore:
 
Good to share with you guys since i'm the k3ve2 owner. Attached is the piston between normal k3-ve and k3ve2. Actually i was trying to bore the piston and find aftermarket piston. However i abolished the project
 

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waa... 5k start kicks? probably need something to do wit the turbin.. either change the exhaust housing to smaller size or change the whole turbine.. that current setup is not suitable for street. that setup is only for drag race.. but depends on the owner if he likes..

Agreed but for convenient and practical purposes, definitely k3vet is the engine to go. For those going to bot, better be prepared to fork out more on fuel consumption and various limitation on the boost application.

My own project is a good example, bot to my crv 1st gen, using Garrett turbo with ar60 housing, stock internal, boosting 0.7bar, power output at 210whp, e manage blue, fuel consumption is kinda high with rm100 of Ron 97 can only last me 300km:banghead:. Reason for high fuel consumption=stock internal thus tuning gotta run rich for reliability purposes. Boost kick in at 3.5k rpm. Lessons learn from the project=stock turbo engine will always be preferred compared to bot on na.
 

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