Swaybar Preload

[parakey]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ApYQnI9nsY&t=206

I watched Youtube videos depicting how UR installs swaybar/anti-roll bars. In them, I see the cars getting jacked/raised above ground level for the bars to be installed. Final tightening were performed with the wheels off the ground.

Can't help wondering how this can be correct. With vehicles off ground level, the cars aren't at their normal ride height. If you tighten & lock the bolts in this position, when the cars are returned to their normal ride height, the bar should experience some movement. Will this not induce some preloaded twist into the bar?

Any thoughts guys?

 

[vr2turbo]

ARB are not tighten to a fixed point where there is no movement. It supposed to move to counter the right to left and/or left to right, so to me no issues

 

[Izso]

preloaded eh. I never thought of it that way. There's bound to be *some* load but it's minimal since most of the forces will be taken away by the links I suppose?

 

[parakey]

A bit difficult to put into words what I mean. Please have a look at this youtube video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-7whf5jCd4&t=42

In the video, it showed the swaybar end link at full droop. With the wheels off the ground, swaybar hole vs endlink will be misaligned. If the bolt is tightened at this position, when the car is lowered back to it's normal ride height, we're preloading the bar with some unwanted stress.

He He .. sorry about my poor explaination.

 

[marv3]

But if the car is not jacked up, how are you able to fix the rear ARB? I mean if the car is low, is impossible to get underneath behind the car. :hmmmm2::hmmmm2::hmmmm2:

 

[twistedichc]

But if the car is not jacked up, how are you able to fix the rear ARB? I mean if the car is low, is impossible to get underneath behind the car. :hmmmm2::hmmmm2::hmmmm2:

usually there is gap of the nut holes to adjust the nut position, so after installing does not have to tighten the nut all the way, get the car down as low as possible for installer to get in & tighten it, so lesser stress than when the car is way up.

 

[parakey]

But if the car is not jacked up, how are you able to fix the rear ARB? I mean if the car is low, is impossible to get underneath behind the car. :hmmmm2::hmmmm2::hmmmm2:

I saw one guy used a ramp

Another used a separate jack to raise the lower arm

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v38/PatrickGSR94/MyIntegra/2010-04-01_Suspension/IMG_6165.jpg

Alternately, find a tyre shop with a hole in the ground

 

[parakey]

usually there is gap of the nut holes to adjust the nut position, so after installing does not have to tighten the nut all the way, get the car down as low as possible for installer to get in & tighten it, so lesser stress than when the car is way up.

Think with most rear ARBs, we can squeeze under the vehicle to tighten the bolt. It's the front that is difficult.

Sorry for bringing up this subject but ever since I uprated my ARBs, NVH has gone down the drain. On early morning starts, heavy vibrations makes their way into the cabin. Once properly warmed up (several minutes later), the vibrations goes away. Previous front ARB used to be 24.4mm. New one is 26mm. Surely that cant make such a huge difference. Trying to figure out why

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

parakey..probably due to spoilt mounting or the front subframe not fixed properly back after installing the sway bar....


and...on stock car...there is no swaybay preload adjustment...u were dead with whats the factory load on swaybar anyway.... unless we were talking about wtcc/wrc/race car sway bar setup that use torsion bar with adjustment gear on both end... or adjustable sway bar link....


and your car doesnt really matter jacked or no jacked both side suspension or tyre subjected to almost equal force when rest on flat ground (plus minor imbalance on factory car weight distribution u cant fix it anyway)


so no need to worry about swaybay preload...doesnt affect anything on road car anyway.....unless we were talking about new fresh tight swaybay link and compared it to old worn lots of free play or even broken swaybay link... then only it differ...

 

[parakey]

parakey..probably due to spoilt mounting or the front subframe not fixed properly back after installing the sway bar...

Sorry for not replying earlier. After fiddling with the end link connection the other night, vibration seems lesser. Will monitor for the next few days. Despite so, I do agree with your diagnosis that engine mounting is likely at fault. Will go claim new units from Proton

 

[vr2turbo]

Think with most rear ARBs, we can squeeze under the vehicle to tighten the bolt. It's the front that is difficult.

Sorry for bringing up this subject but ever since I uprated my ARBs, NVH has gone down the drain. On early morning starts, heavy vibrations makes their way into the cabin. Once properly warmed up (several minutes later), the vibrations goes away. Previous front ARB used to be 24.4mm. New one is 26mm. Surely that cant make such a huge difference. Trying to figure out why

What idling speed in the morning at start up? Looks like it is on the low side since got vibration and none after warmed up

 

[parakey]

A bit on the highish side - 1200 rpm.

 

[vr2turbo]

A bit on the highish side - 1200 rpm.

Cold start is higher due to auto choke. If too slow, bound to have engine vibration. Mine is even higher then will settle at around 1k after warmed up

 

[parakey]

Strange thing is that after approximately 3 years of ownership, this vibration starts occurring shortly after I install those bars.

 

[vr2turbo]

Strange thing is that after approximately 3 years of ownership, this vibration starts occurring shortly after I install those bars.

If easy to remove, you can try remove and see what happens.....