Review: Introducing the Hon-takdak. Err.. I mean the hondata.

[albani]

wahh...good write-ups la shiro..

i learnt alot of terms n rules in tuning with ur info!..keep it up bro..

 

[Ride&Handling]

shiro good write-ups..hey wondering ur hon-takdak logs can it be carry-overed to other piggy-back ecu? very interesting study you have here..if honda got rnd in malaysia u might get the job powertrain ecu mapping engineer..haha..

 

[D-IV]

Shiro, whats up with your AFR read outs? Not yet calibrated?

I'm itchy to get my S300 but i have to wait until January. Planning on buying it chipped into a P28 from the US. In all honesty, the price is expensive when compared to other chipped programmable ECU's, because of the name i guess. But heck, it works and its better off than buying an HKS VPro.

 

[shiroitenshi]

it's calibrated, div, what I was referring to is the idea to get better resolution. with 0-2V analog output, the minor 0.1-0.3V fluctuations makes the AFR readout a little wide. Most sensors are 5v, so the ecu can actually manage a 5v D14 sensor input. with 5v emulation on the LM1, the readouts are a bit more stable, since the LM1 analog output actually samples at 16 samples per sec, I tried lowering it to 1/6, but those minor fluctuations were still irritating when reading the map trace, so I tried 5v emulation and it works great.

there's a lot to play with div, if you're going to diy. Even without a dyno, you can aim for good AFR and with the LM-1 auxbox acceleration sensor, you can tune the ignition somewhat. But it's hard to tune a fast car because of the speeds involved in accelerating full throttle in 4th gear to peak rpm. we're talking 190kmh + on the streets and with a starting rpm of 2.5K, it's a LOOONG stretch of road, and retaining it for at least 10 secs or less to wait for the AFR to stabilize (the afr readout needs time to stabilize after hard acceleration due to the throttle tip in fuelling involved) I'm getting by with running slightly rich and lower timings at columns 9-10 at 7-9K (not that rich and retarded though), abt. 13AFR and 28's ignition. It's for a temporary measure though, as the exhaust is enlarged slightly recently to 2.25inches, so that's something. Haven't gotten the time to see how far up the peak power can be carried with a bigger exhaust, so that's something to be done a bit later. I still think it's better with a 2.5, but since it is an experiment, might as well see what can be done with a 2.25inch exhaust, and how far up the peak is.

With a slower car, speed's not an issue because the 3rd gear gives abt 140kmh max, and it's no problem to retain it that long if there's an empty street long enough, like abt 1km+

The reason why i'd use 4th gear for a dyno run is for the resolution. any misfirings or lean spikes can be seen with a 4th gear run that might be missed when doing a 3rd gear run that lasts 3-4 secs or less.

 

[D-IV]

Thanks, i was just a little worried about it. I understand where you are coming on the resolutions and how sensitive it is. Had that problem a while back. Anyway, its pretty new to me that Honda ECU can read up to 5v, didn't know it was that versatile or did hondata made that adjustments to the factory ecu?

How did you tune your ignition timing? EGT sensor? or knock read out? Don't worry, my car not so fast nowadays :rolleyes: and i do my pulls in 4th for consistency plus it samples more per second as it stays longer on the revs. I do have plans on learning and tuning the S300 myself coz I like DIY's plus the knowledge is what i am after plus i'm pretty comfortable with tuning coz i've been through EMS and Greddy Ultimate already. When's the next EFI 101 class anyway?

 

[shiroitenshi]

So far, I've only tested a few, so it's not a given that all sensors output 5V, but for now, I can say that the temp sensor, the map sensor and the IAT sensor all output at 5V, from 0V to 5V.. oh.. I forgot.. the TPS as well . So it's nothing really particular about the ECU itself. Like the desktop PC, it has 5V and 12V rails, but I haven't went that technical and actually figured out which trace on the board is 5V and which trace is 12.. lol. But I don't remember if I did test or not, but if I'm not wrong, the power going into the sensors are 12V.. it's just that they output in 5V or less.

Anyway, Ride&Handling, thanks for your compliments, but I think it's not that the current R&D department of engineering of honda knows less than me, but rather he has things that hamper his efforts in making any honda engine more powerful, i.e. EMISSIONS and COST.

 

[udengfahlawi]

it wud be nice if there is a hondata seminar like this one..
http://www.pencomputing.com:80/rsx/HondataSeminar.html

...mayb not by the founder himself ler....but one of the authorized dealer here who really knows about the product....there are so many set up/parameters in the s300 that probably noob like me need to take a 3-credit hour class ler....

 

[D-IV]

I was actually referring to the O2 I/O voltage. The rest I know already pretty easy once you have the manual to an OBD-1

not sure whether its still working or not but here's the website that i got the manual from. Happy downloading.

http://www.hondahookup.com/info/ <-just checked it. Yeah its working.

 

[shiroitenshi]

I also have the manual. it's the o2 sensor's output. It only maxes out at 3V or so, but the at the input is perfectly capable of receiving 5V. If you're worried, then you can lower it to 3V. but there's only 2 voltages when considering car electricals, 5V, and 12-14V.

I got mine from www.hondatech.info