MY REBUILD.."Don't see if u 'X' like..

virqai

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Starting with engine...take out all part...B series,first plan want to use B20b short blok and long stroke..
but...change the plan...its may come next stage..

HEAD WORK...PNP..:wavey:
Exs ports...
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I more like to do Ports job at night...use light reflex..more easy to see...
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Combustion chamber job...
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Just shrouded the sharp edge and polish...some time i weld,and shape its like GSR..but not this time..
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:cool:
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All CC done..
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Intake runner port.dont want to enlarge the hole...cut bowl and valve guide and finish the wall with 60grid..lets the thin layer fuel seat there...
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Exs runner...:smokin:
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Valve job....
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make its smooth contour on this side..
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Cleaning all this stuff using wheel brush..
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After all regrind valve done..put back all valve without spring and test leak with water...
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Back from mamak shop..water level drop,find a bit leak..need to refine
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---------- Post added at 08:05 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:45 AM ----------

Match port to intake runner...
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Mark using Doraemon pen..
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can see line with white ink there...
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Refacing Head..
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1st lapping..
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Need a bit more...
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Wahh, shining like a mirror! :top: If I may ask, what are the pros and cons of PnP? I understand it improves high-end power but will it affect low end torque?
 
Done first step...no more old surface mark....
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Finish its with 360 grid
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Cut out sharp,balance casting,refine wall..to allow engine oil more fast drain back to oil sum
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cut..cut..cuttt
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Just for help..polishing this area..so hard to clean its when engine dirty..stack with dazzy and vtec staff
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Weld to erase heater pipe...i'm not hope owner,don't use water stopper if lazy to check it....huh
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Put back valve.....some time after polishing valve, i do balancing weight...
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nice...i would like to see more of your work here...keep up the good work.
 
Engine Blok...same like head, resurface blok,piston polishing,con rod side sanding, polishing stress point and balancing weight..
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OEM piston only...some work i weld to the dome..to increase comp..
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Can see a bit side rod..i'm really forget to take a pics..
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Camshaft Cap...not all area hold the cam..so need fitting work...need more patience to do this..so make its at night while hear 'cengkerik' song...haaa...:willy::musicus:
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Here how i do fitting...need many time to "buka-pasang"- "Turn cam"-"Pasang-buka-pasang-buka-pasang...............huhhh"
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open cap..tadaaa..if got punching beg here..sure i layan kick till pensan laa..
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more:evil:more:evil:more:mad:
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its coming..its coming...
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Warggg...warrggg...done
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Wahh, shining like a mirror! :top: If I may ask, what are the pros and cons of PnP? I understand it improves high-end power but will it affect low end torque?

PnP promotes smoother flow, hence better flow efficiency. Can't think of a reason there would be a downside, except one that involves your wallet...hehe
 
Interesting way of testing with the marker pen! Very innovative indeed
 
Port match IM,runner..not to enlarge,just want to scratch the surface only...
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Try to reach till the plenum chamber..
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Shave pipe...
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Shave water pump pipe,termostart housing pipe...only left 2 main water pipe to radiator and 1 to termostart...
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Need to paint...
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Inside Plenum chamber work......
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Seat for air pipe for brake pump servo,aicv and cold start...
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Now no more traffic jam....:rofl:
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nice work bro. I'm sure this kind of work takes a lot of time.
Got pics of tools you use?
the cam journal clearance never check with plastigage?
Like the IM port. Stealth IM, look like B16, but huehuehue :P

I also did the heater pipe delete, but not as extreme as you, I just tap and plug only. :O *respect for going the extra mile.*

Also, how you clean the block? What kind of cleaners you use?

And I like how you finished it with media blast. Shop or DIY using the home media blaster kit? Where you buy?
 
Last edited:
nice work bro. I'm sure this kind of work takes a lot of time.
Got pics of tools you use?
the cam journal clearance never check with plastigage?
Like the IM port. Stealth IM, look like B16, but huehuehue :P

I also did the heater pipe delete, but not as extreme as you, I just tap and plug only. :O *respect for going the extra mile.*:top:< That also good

Also, how you clean the block? What kind of cleaners you use? < minyak tanah (carosene ka?),Daia soap and blow use washing gun..(u can see at detailling section)

And I like how you finished it with media blast. Shop or DIY using the home media blaster kit? Where you buy?

Thanks shiro..yeah,its will take a lot of time..if play Metallica cd,will play back 4 or 5 time..ha..ha..lucky so far all my friend can understand my work...coz +- sometime me also don't no i charge for its or not..i do just be coz i more hate after build but still takut to floor ur pedal...then for what? ha..ha..ha..sory for no pics for the tools..some buy its but need to mode...and many attachment,like flex root rotor etc.. custom..

After many time use its, now not more,but still need to check for centre..plastiguage will tell u micron clearance...but to make the clearance is up to your 2 hand,like do fitting conrod and main bearing...even u use machine still depend how freindly u with that mchine right?..that maker ink will tell me which area will touch first..then i refine its...mark again,pasng-buka,turn,pasang buka,again,again till all area seat..like when we do full crank balance,how many weight u take out when we drill we also dont know,then need to swing back to check-drill-swing...till balance...and all that:biggrin: depend for the honest..even with paper resault give u...


"SELAMAT HARI RAYA AIDILFITRI" TO ALL

---------- Post added at 05:50 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 05:47 PM ----------

nice!!!

how much do u charge for that shiny job? :biggrin:

No idea..:biggrin:i need to ask owner first when he get my bills...haaa...haaa.

---------- Post added at 05:55 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 05:50 PM ----------

Interesting way of testing with the marker pen! Very innovative indeed

thanks Izso.. thats is my method but its may be wrong..so...

---------- Post added at 06:17 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 05:55 PM ----------

PnP promotes smoother flow, hence better flow efficiency. Can't think of a reason there would be a downside, except one that involves your wallet...hehe
Yeah..hu..hu..:biggrin:

Wahh, shining like a mirror! :top: If I may ask, what are the pros and cons of PnP? I understand it improves high-end power but will it affect low end torque?

Pnp just for head flow,how air will flow there,speed,stable,filter etc..etc, even u use velocity stack still many thing need to match and must be missmatch also,the best is u have and can custom many-many design,size etc for test.....exs header design? what ur car weight?
most important thing is...if me la,just my 2cen...if thats car for daily used,play with minor2 thing..can get oem engine HP also ok what..and try to get Healty HOSES not semput,darah tinggi and asma sumore... then afraid to floor pedal"takut engine pecah" ha..ha....
 
There's no "wrong" way of doing things if the end result is the same. It's only wrong when you don't try at all.

Sifu la you.. the water and the air ports relocation is damn ingenious! Why didn't I think of that when I had my entire engine out. Dammit!
 
Thanks shiro..yeah,its will take a lot of time..if play Metallica cd,will play back 4 or 5 time..ha..ha..lucky so far all my friend can understand my work...coz +- sometime me also don't no i charge for its or not..i do just be coz i more hate after build but still takut to floor ur pedal...then for what? ha..ha..ha..sory for no pics for the tools..some buy its but need to mode...and many attachment,like flex root rotor etc.. custom..
Of course, I understand that modded tools suit the user better :P
But sill got one question, the finish you did on the intake, how you get back the ori blasted finish? media blast?

After many time use its, now not more,but still need to check for centre..plastiguage will tell u micron clearance...but to make the clearance is up to your 2 hand,like do fitting conrod and main bearing...even u use machine still depend how freindly u with that mchine right?..that maker ink will tell me which area will touch first..then i refine its...mark again,pasng-buka,turn,pasang buka,again,again till all area seat..like when we do full crank balance,how many weight u take out when we drill we also dont know,then need to swing back to check-drill-swing...till balance...and all that:biggrin: depend for the honest..even with paper resault give u...

Yeah, have to center, that is obvious, that's why line hole tool exists. one worrying thing about having too loose is that we lose oil pressure IMO.
 
SOME ANGPAU :wavey::party:

SELAMAT HARI RAYA AIDILFITRI

TRANS WORK....will check all gear part after raye ler...
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Settle housing 1st...
BF
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AF
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BF
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AF
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BF
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AF
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BF
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AF
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BF
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AF
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BF
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AF
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ENGINE WIRING....
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---------- Post added at 10:54 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:28 AM ----------

Of course, I understand that modded tools suit the user better :P
But sill got one question, the finish you did on the intake, how you get back the ori blasted finish? media blast?



Yeah, have to center, that is obvious, that's why line hole tool exists. one worrying thing about having too loose is that we lose oil pressure IMO.

u mean the skins,no la...not blasting...that just for small area only,the trick i do is, just get old file.i use round file,cut for what inch u want..then i weld to sub,its look like 'T' la....then i knock-knock to my forehead :banghead:till the dot2 appear at that manifold skin....ha..ha...ha... u knock la where u want....

And here is my....enough long or not...please don't touch the head,or u will scream AWW..AWW:rofl:
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Just Joke...:proud:

---------- Post added at 11:15 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:54 AM ----------

Engine ready,trans ready,wiring ready...car body also ready....
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All stdt interior...good,i will try to tune its not more then 950....not HP la...car weight only...we all poor,so play std engine only..:fisheye::embarassed::bawling:
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Haha. use file surface, creative! Put in satria ah? Can play play with campro younger brothers after this la? :rofl:

Even transmission shiny2. :rofl:

Keep up the good work.

Looking for a tool to buff up the 'tight' areas at the block webbing. That's the problem I had when I did mine, how did you do yours?
 
Need Help...plz i need to know,lets says when u open ur friend car hood and he says its just b16 engine only la...after u looking around then u know its b20b block...how u can recognize ha..:hmmmm:...i need some input with this...:adore:sincere i'm not b20 user..
 
Need Help...plz i need to know,lets says when u open ur friend car hood and he says its just b16 engine only la...after u looking around then u know its b20b block...how u can recognize ha..:hmmmm:...i need some input with this...:adore:sincere i'm not b20 user..

2 main things to look for...

1/ block height
look at the height of the block only... if its the same height as the gearbox then its a B16A... but if its higher then it can be a B16B/B18/B20

2/ a rib/tulang rusuk
B20 got 1 rib missing from the block. refer attached picture. this is the easiest and fastest way to tell a B20 from other B16/B18 blocks.

But B16B and B18C uses the same block so hard to tell unless u open it up and identify the internal parts.


the missing rib
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/1406/copyofblockdiff.jpg

notice the B20B doesnt have the rib...
 

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