Mr-2 Sw20
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For me. I'm driving a stock 225.
Use to be boosting at 1 or 1.1 bar with stock internals using a fish tank controller. :)
Highest boost i've run before on 100ron av gas is 1.3bar.
Running very lean that time but luckily engine never gave up on me.
Right now my head gasket is leaking a bit. And i still havent got my metal head gasket.
And I'm running on 0.5bar boost now. Damn sluggish dragging those wheel and fibre body.
Thats my 2cents worth of experience...
Cheers.
Use to be boosting at 1 or 1.1 bar with stock internals using a fish tank controller. :)
Highest boost i've run before on 100ron av gas is 1.3bar.
Running very lean that time but luckily engine never gave up on me.
Right now my head gasket is leaking a bit. And i still havent got my metal head gasket.
And I'm running on 0.5bar boost now. Damn sluggish dragging those wheel and fibre body.
Thats my 2cents worth of experience...
Cheers.
Just a reminder to all 245 turbo kakis, the 245's turbo is a ceramic turbine and running boost above 1 bar is not recommended although some have survived the torture.Mine gave way at 1.2 bar peak.so beware..hehe.
I think short sprints are ok but continuos long runs at higher boost can cause premature death to turbo unit.hehe
My 225 CT26 turbo is doing ok after 2years of autocross with NOS running too at 1 bar boost.
I think short sprints are ok but continuos long runs at higher boost can cause premature death to turbo unit.hehe
My 225 CT26 turbo is doing ok after 2years of autocross with NOS running too at 1 bar boost.
TheFalcon said:
better get a better boost controller and adjust the boost. The 0.5 bar is because some pipings which are suppose to be there is not there or is done wrongly, that's why u r running underboost.:angel_smile: just my 2 cents.
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Anybody know why is my foglights' fuse keeps on blowing off once its turned on ? I've changed 2 pcs already. Anybody had this experience b4 ? :cry_smile:
I'm running without my fog lights now. :sad_smile:
I'm running without my fog lights now. :sad_smile:
guys, been having problems with my clutch pedal lately.
sometimes, when i press it in, it gets stuck deep inside. not really stuck, the pedal still depresses normally but to switch gear, have to press alot deeper inside.
like the pressure point changed or something. feels damn wierd.
any idea whats wrong? im thinking the clutch pump?
sometimes, when i press it in, it gets stuck deep inside. not really stuck, the pedal still depresses normally but to switch gear, have to press alot deeper inside.
like the pressure point changed or something. feels damn wierd.
any idea whats wrong? im thinking the clutch pump?
cynicks, maybe the seals are not good already and water moisture is getting into the lamp, try removing the cap (cover for the bulbs) and fitting a thin rubber washer (ring) to stop moisture form getting into the lights.
TheFalcon, I kind of have the same problem. When I drive quick I cannot drop my gears smoothly it’s hard to slot it into 3rd and 2nd (60% of the time) so my solution (and I’m going through a series of test and maintenance work on this) is to first change the transmission oil and clutch fluid (did this over a 2 mths now), this help me a lot as the problem now only appears 20% of the time.
Yesterday I adjusted the clutch pedal higher and it seems to be helping on the clutch feel so far…it al seems a bit looser now.
This coming week I’ll be replacing part of my clutch pump (rear) and this should cost rm180 for the clutch pump alone, hopefully it will solve the problem, coz the next thing to change would be the front clutch pump and finally the replacement of the entire clutch assembly which would be rather costly… wish me luck and I can keep you updated if your interested.
Everybody, I was toying with the idea of a DYNO shoot out for the entire MR2 and MRS members, anyone interested or want to organize this or can get a good deal for this event (I have no contacts and no idea who has the best DYNO deal in town). It would be fun to have a day we all dyno our cars just to know our cars better.
TheFalcon, I kind of have the same problem. When I drive quick I cannot drop my gears smoothly it’s hard to slot it into 3rd and 2nd (60% of the time) so my solution (and I’m going through a series of test and maintenance work on this) is to first change the transmission oil and clutch fluid (did this over a 2 mths now), this help me a lot as the problem now only appears 20% of the time.
Yesterday I adjusted the clutch pedal higher and it seems to be helping on the clutch feel so far…it al seems a bit looser now.
This coming week I’ll be replacing part of my clutch pump (rear) and this should cost rm180 for the clutch pump alone, hopefully it will solve the problem, coz the next thing to change would be the front clutch pump and finally the replacement of the entire clutch assembly which would be rather costly… wish me luck and I can keep you updated if your interested.
Everybody, I was toying with the idea of a DYNO shoot out for the entire MR2 and MRS members, anyone interested or want to organize this or can get a good deal for this event (I have no contacts and no idea who has the best DYNO deal in town). It would be fun to have a day we all dyno our cars just to know our cars better.
iexit, yea, sounds like same problem
so when u push the pedal, sometimes seems like the clutch point became deeper abit?
mine i have to pump the pedal a few times, and it becomes back to normal for awhile...
else quite hard to switch gears, can masuk, but can feel friction
i may change transmission oil and clutch fluid.. but i just changed about 2 months back, so dont think thats the problem
keep me updated after u change ur pump, and what happens. good luck!
and DYNO seems like a good idea, think if wanna go group dyno... GT auto gives group offer.
so when u push the pedal, sometimes seems like the clutch point became deeper abit?
mine i have to pump the pedal a few times, and it becomes back to normal for awhile...
else quite hard to switch gears, can masuk, but can feel friction
i may change transmission oil and clutch fluid.. but i just changed about 2 months back, so dont think thats the problem
keep me updated after u change ur pump, and what happens. good luck!
and DYNO seems like a good idea, think if wanna go group dyno... GT auto gives group offer.
ok, my clutch is screwed
couldnt disengage from 1st gear in jam while coming back from work
very scary experience
*update* - iexit, my problem was a faulty clutch pump
u shld check urs
couldnt disengage from 1st gear in jam while coming back from work
very scary experience
*update* - iexit, my problem was a faulty clutch pump
u shld check urs
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rear pump.
i think problem solved already...
doesnt seem to reoccur anymore
i think problem solved already...
doesnt seem to reoccur anymore
i think u should change the clutch line too for a better feel. Can get them to fabricate new steel braided ones
The rubber ones on our cars are like somewhat 15 years old and about time to change before it gets brittle and burst upon spirited driving. :)
The rubber ones on our cars are like somewhat 15 years old and about time to change before it gets brittle and burst upon spirited driving. :)
TheFalcon, Good to know TQ will do mine this Monday. If you don’t mind me asking, how much did it cost you?
MRMIC2, OK, stage 3 that one, got too many things to do and so little money :-) BTW i found my the Master Brake Servo (turbo)already... opening price RM120 (mun Lee)
MRMIC2, OK, stage 3 that one, got too many things to do and so little money :-) BTW i found my the Master Brake Servo (turbo)already... opening price RM120 (mun Lee)
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iexit,
under 200
service parts costs bout 100, then must change clutch fluid again =P
and labour lo
under 200
service parts costs bout 100, then must change clutch fluid again =P
and labour lo
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