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u cut the wrong one dude... search for another PVC pipe on the cam cover other than this. This one is used to install air breather leh
How To Diy A Micro Compressor?
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:'(
mine no psuhhh psuhhhh even i rev until redline(6.5k)
maybe pressure tak cukup ah? since mine is 1.3 only ..
top end no changes ler after add this thing, but fuel comsumption and especially pick up there.. alot of increament for me.. *satisfy user* :D
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haha.... :lol: too bad today i go pick up my car...forget to tell my foreman to dun usik my diy..the fellow help me replace back the PCV hose when he service my carb 
...i see him put some red silicon at the place to connect there...i guess my diy got vacumm leak....coz i remember i can hear small psshh sound althought i close my MC..SO FOR ANYONE WHO WANNA PREVENT LEAKING...USE SILICON..U CAN GET FROM UR FOREMAN OR ANYWHERE...
now i gonna fix back my diy...sien~~~~i think i fix my OCT back.mc see first
oh yeah ..i need to ask some question...i open the MC..rev go up rite....
so just leave it or how???
coz i open all the engine wont sound die but rev very high
so i leave the rev??coz that time i see the rev so high itchy hand got set the carb unti lari liao
...i see him put some red silicon at the place to connect there...i guess my diy got vacumm leak....coz i remember i can hear small psshh sound althought i close my MC..SO FOR ANYONE WHO WANNA PREVENT LEAKING...USE SILICON..U CAN GET FROM UR FOREMAN OR ANYWHERE...now i gonna fix back my diy...sien~~~~i think i fix my OCT back.mc see first
oh yeah ..i need to ask some question...i open the MC..rev go up rite....
so just leave it or how???
coz i open all the engine wont sound die but rev very high
so i leave the rev??coz that time i see the rev so high itchy hand got set the carb unti lari liao
hey guys, from this picture that i took from bezet's post....
the PCV pipe is No. 2 as you guys said and it's the one we are all gonna use for this DIY mod.
How about the No.1 hose? That is for the air breather right? But what does an air breather do ah? Mine is still stock. Can i DIY that part too?
thanks guys...
Jonathan.
the PCV pipe is No. 2 as you guys said and it's the one we are all gonna use for this DIY mod.
How about the No.1 hose? That is for the air breather right? But what does an air breather do ah? Mine is still stock. Can i DIY that part too?
thanks guys...
Jonathan.
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at ur rocker cover..there is two stuff..an inlet and an outlet
the breather is breath in air one...detail i forgot liao luh....u can refer to the oil catch tank diy....they got explanation for ur answer.not much effect thought if u put a breather...make it smooooth kua.
the breather is breath in air one...detail i forgot liao luh....u can refer to the oil catch tank diy....they got explanation for ur answer.not much effect thought if u put a breather...make it smooooth kua.
in my case, the breather makes the breathing of the engine smoother.. no jerking and high-low rpm after i install the small filter to the breather. before that , i often encounter jerking on my engine and hi-low rpm after i install the DIY micro compressor
POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION
Positive Crankcase Ventilation valves, aka PCV valves. They pull fresh air into the engine’s crankcase and draw fumes out. They’re small, they’re inexpensive but oh can they play havoc with an engine. PCV systems control harmful fumes emitted from hot oil, and combustion gasses from burning fuel. Both are normal. Before PCV these fumes were expelled into the atmosphere and contributed substantially to automotive-based air pollution.Today PCV systems are standard equipment; they remove crankcase pollutants, which are then destroyed through a re-burning process.
It works like this. Engines produce vacuum, which is just like the suction a vacuum cleaner produces at the end of its hose. Vacuum = Suction! Engineers take advantage of engine vacuum to suck fumes out of an engine’s crankcase. Not only does this eliminate pollutants, it maintains a vacuum inside the engine.
The biggest problems with PCV systems are lack of knowledge and poor maintenance. Without routine testing and maintenance, PCV systems quit working which could mean failed emissions (high carbon monoxide and possibly hydrocarbon readings), stalling, lowered fuel mileage, rough idle, hesitation, illuminated “check engine light,” oil-soaked air filters, and oil leaks.
What about engine crankcase vacuum, how does it affect things? When a PCV system is working right there will always be a vacuum (suction) inside the engine’s crankcase. But, when the PCV system isn’t working, vacuum becomes pressure. That’s a problem because engine seals and gaskets are designed to work under vacuum, therefore when vacuum turns to pressure it can cause oil to be forced past seals. In severe cases, crankcase pressure causes seals and gaskets to literally be pushed out of the engine resulting in an oil hemorrhage.
With stakes so high, why are PCV systems almost universally ignored? Usually lack of knowledge and to add insult to injury, even when a check is performed it’s usually only the PCV valve, not the entire system. A PCV system is composed of a PCV valve, usually a hose to connect the valve to a vacuum source, a second hose for incoming air, and a filter to clean incoming air. All PCV parts must be checked on a regular basis. Always replace your PCV valve and check the rest of the system at least once every year or 12,000 miles.
Somewhere over the eons it became an accepted but erroneous assumption that if a PCV valve rattled when shook, everything was okay. That little tidbit of misinformation can be costly. Checking a PCV system involves much more than just shaking the valve. PCV testing is best left to experts but for a quick and dirty do-it-yourself check, start by disconnecting the hose for incoming air, usually at the air filter housing. With the engine idling there must be sufficient vacuum to firmly hold a business card to the end of the hose. If there isn’t enough vacuum to hold the card in place it’s time to visit a repair shop. But don’t say fix it until you’re sure they understand PCV systems.
PCV --- small parts, obscure parts, parts that can cause hundreds of dollars worth of damage in a matter of minutes if they don’t work properly.
POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION
http://autorepair.about.com/library/graphics/pcv.jpg
Definition: A means of controlling crankcase blowby emissions and removing moisture condensation from the crankcase to prolong oil life. See PCV valve. Related Terms
• Emission Control System
• PCV Valve
...FYI...... :unsure:
Positive Crankcase Ventilation valves, aka PCV valves. They pull fresh air into the engine’s crankcase and draw fumes out. They’re small, they’re inexpensive but oh can they play havoc with an engine. PCV systems control harmful fumes emitted from hot oil, and combustion gasses from burning fuel. Both are normal. Before PCV these fumes were expelled into the atmosphere and contributed substantially to automotive-based air pollution.Today PCV systems are standard equipment; they remove crankcase pollutants, which are then destroyed through a re-burning process.
It works like this. Engines produce vacuum, which is just like the suction a vacuum cleaner produces at the end of its hose. Vacuum = Suction! Engineers take advantage of engine vacuum to suck fumes out of an engine’s crankcase. Not only does this eliminate pollutants, it maintains a vacuum inside the engine.
The biggest problems with PCV systems are lack of knowledge and poor maintenance. Without routine testing and maintenance, PCV systems quit working which could mean failed emissions (high carbon monoxide and possibly hydrocarbon readings), stalling, lowered fuel mileage, rough idle, hesitation, illuminated “check engine light,” oil-soaked air filters, and oil leaks.
What about engine crankcase vacuum, how does it affect things? When a PCV system is working right there will always be a vacuum (suction) inside the engine’s crankcase. But, when the PCV system isn’t working, vacuum becomes pressure. That’s a problem because engine seals and gaskets are designed to work under vacuum, therefore when vacuum turns to pressure it can cause oil to be forced past seals. In severe cases, crankcase pressure causes seals and gaskets to literally be pushed out of the engine resulting in an oil hemorrhage.
With stakes so high, why are PCV systems almost universally ignored? Usually lack of knowledge and to add insult to injury, even when a check is performed it’s usually only the PCV valve, not the entire system. A PCV system is composed of a PCV valve, usually a hose to connect the valve to a vacuum source, a second hose for incoming air, and a filter to clean incoming air. All PCV parts must be checked on a regular basis. Always replace your PCV valve and check the rest of the system at least once every year or 12,000 miles.
Somewhere over the eons it became an accepted but erroneous assumption that if a PCV valve rattled when shook, everything was okay. That little tidbit of misinformation can be costly. Checking a PCV system involves much more than just shaking the valve. PCV testing is best left to experts but for a quick and dirty do-it-yourself check, start by disconnecting the hose for incoming air, usually at the air filter housing. With the engine idling there must be sufficient vacuum to firmly hold a business card to the end of the hose. If there isn’t enough vacuum to hold the card in place it’s time to visit a repair shop. But don’t say fix it until you’re sure they understand PCV systems.
PCV --- small parts, obscure parts, parts that can cause hundreds of dollars worth of damage in a matter of minutes if they don’t work properly.
POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION
http://autorepair.about.com/library/graphics/pcv.jpg
Definition: A means of controlling crankcase blowby emissions and removing moisture condensation from the crankcase to prolong oil life. See PCV valve. Related Terms
• Emission Control System
• PCV Valve
...FYI...... :unsure:
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GOOD EXPLANATION MAN!!!!
windz~~really arr?coz everytime i rev farking high my car jerk like hell...i try to get a breather..then pasang balik my OCT (c first lah..now bz other diy)
windz~~really arr?coz everytime i rev farking high my car jerk like hell...i try to get a breather..then pasang balik my OCT (c first lah..now bz other diy)
In that case, can anybody explain, why by creating a leak at the PCV pipe aka Air Injector... Can increase performance and fuel efficiency?
Anyway, as of the attached below, please tell me, which 1 do we cut for the Air Injector?
Red or Yellow?
Anyway, as of the attached below, please tell me, which 1 do we cut for the Air Injector?
Red or Yellow?
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yellow one dude
yellow one meh ? i tot supposed to put in the PCV valve which is the red one ?
ok guys.... correct me if i'm wrong
but this is what i understand..
from servo's good article.... the PCV valve is the one sucking air into the intake manifold? The incoming air is from the air filter side, and then air and dirt is sucked into the intake manifold to clean out the dirt and pollutants? So when we cut the PCV hose and stick a MC in between it, we are actually making the intake manifold suck new and fresh air in besides just dirt? That's why it's called an MC? And so when you guys were talking bout the hose turning black, it's all the oil, dirt and pollutant from the camshaft chamber that is getting into your hoses rite? So all in all, we're just cheating a system that is designed to suck dirty air to suck new and clean fresh air? Hence it takes in cooler air, making ur engines perform a little (how much is little? hehehe, 0.1hp?) better due to the more condensed cool air? But in that article, it says we should maintain a vacuum in the camcover at most instants, hence by doing this MC thing, aren't we reducing the suction power of the intake manifold on the cam cover? Cause i mean, we are replacing a source here, the mass flow rate of air into the intake manifold should be constant, and by giving it 1 extra new source now, it should definitely reduce the vacuum effect rite? So guys, i guess opening the valve fully open is not a good idea after all. hehehe. So on your verdicts, after reading the article, should this modification be encouraged? I mean performance wise we don't know how much we're gaining here, and we risk losing the vacuum effect and hence destroying our engines. I'm not saying it will destroy the engines, i'm saying it might. Or maybe the vacuum that is still available is good enough already? I don't think we'll know cause we won't have the right set of stuffs to do the proper R&D on this.
BUT, I'm not trying to be a smart arse here or anything ah, i'm just asking for opinions. Cause i mean, we all want the best for our cars rite?
but this is what i understand..
from servo's good article.... the PCV valve is the one sucking air into the intake manifold? The incoming air is from the air filter side, and then air and dirt is sucked into the intake manifold to clean out the dirt and pollutants? So when we cut the PCV hose and stick a MC in between it, we are actually making the intake manifold suck new and fresh air in besides just dirt? That's why it's called an MC? And so when you guys were talking bout the hose turning black, it's all the oil, dirt and pollutant from the camshaft chamber that is getting into your hoses rite? So all in all, we're just cheating a system that is designed to suck dirty air to suck new and clean fresh air? Hence it takes in cooler air, making ur engines perform a little (how much is little? hehehe, 0.1hp?) better due to the more condensed cool air? But in that article, it says we should maintain a vacuum in the camcover at most instants, hence by doing this MC thing, aren't we reducing the suction power of the intake manifold on the cam cover? Cause i mean, we are replacing a source here, the mass flow rate of air into the intake manifold should be constant, and by giving it 1 extra new source now, it should definitely reduce the vacuum effect rite? So guys, i guess opening the valve fully open is not a good idea after all. hehehe. So on your verdicts, after reading the article, should this modification be encouraged? I mean performance wise we don't know how much we're gaining here, and we risk losing the vacuum effect and hence destroying our engines. I'm not saying it will destroy the engines, i'm saying it might. Or maybe the vacuum that is still available is good enough already? I don't think we'll know cause we won't have the right set of stuffs to do the proper R&D on this.
BUT, I'm not trying to be a smart arse here or anything ah, i'm just asking for opinions. Cause i mean, we all want the best for our cars rite?
:'( mine no psuhhh psuhhhh even i rev until redline(6.5k) maybe pressure tak cukup ah? since mine is 1.3 only .. top end no changes ler after add this thing, but fuel comsumption and especially pick up there.. alot of increament for me.. *satisfy user* :D [/b][/quote] WinDz, I going to DIY one on my car but i need your assistance before start DIY.... :D I also driving a 1.3Gli wira, could you tell me how much you open your controller valve (half or open full or < half turn) because my car no have RPM meter very hard to me to adjusted the air controller valve? Thanks !!! |
i'm sorry to create an havoc on this thread....since i'm not means to do it....sorry JL and other members.......i hope JL will forgive me... :( ...it's only for info......
JL will agreed with the article....since him have discuss long time ago on TBS about PCV valve...and his past thread on PCV with the other TBS forummer......One of my fren had using the original MC on his Wira Auto.....after 5 months using it...he complaints to me that the car's engines sound terrible.......
it will be better if you'll just tapped on OIL CATCH TANK on it.....or something like NINJA IGA do on his car......AIR breather Tank....also catch oil.... :D
http://www.geocities.com/bretq/moroso_oil_catch_can.jpg
JL will agreed with the article....since him have discuss long time ago on TBS about PCV valve...and his past thread on PCV with the other TBS forummer......One of my fren had using the original MC on his Wira Auto.....after 5 months using it...he complaints to me that the car's engines sound terrible.......
it will be better if you'll just tapped on OIL CATCH TANK on it.....or something like NINJA IGA do on his car......AIR breather Tank....also catch oil.... :D
http://www.geocities.com/bretq/moroso_oil_catch_can.jpg
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windz!! 2k rpm idle!! ahahah sure got pickup lah...ppl start from 1k u start from 2k...kekekkekeke
i agree with servo....coz the MC is not something "u fix it ur car SURE go faster" that kinda devices..coz it is to LEAN the mixture...so ur AIR FUEL RATIO become lean and save more oil...but TAKE NOT*
doesn't mean u make ur car LEAN like hell is good...coz will have pinging/knocking and like wat servo mention u hear some funny noise(like some small diesel engine) and it wil spoiled ur gasket, oil ring etc...that's y turbo car always run abit rich than the stoich standar that is 14.7 :1 coz to avoid detonation..
so wat JL said that dun open kao kao is due to this reason..u open too much ur mixture will be too lean and not good 4 ur baby..will kong dude...
my fren pajero got some pinging sound so i asked him to go fix it...who knows he got do normal service and the foreman also didn't do anything to the pinging engine...one day disaster strike when his v6 blown just infront of sg wang plaza...
so is better u do it will a air fuel ratio meter if dun hav..dun open too much..
30 degree is enuff for my car luh...
i agree with servo....coz the MC is not something "u fix it ur car SURE go faster" that kinda devices..coz it is to LEAN the mixture...so ur AIR FUEL RATIO become lean and save more oil...but TAKE NOT*
doesn't mean u make ur car LEAN like hell is good...coz will have pinging/knocking and like wat servo mention u hear some funny noise(like some small diesel engine) and it wil spoiled ur gasket, oil ring etc...that's y turbo car always run abit rich than the stoich standar that is 14.7 :1 coz to avoid detonation..
so wat JL said that dun open kao kao is due to this reason..u open too much ur mixture will be too lean and not good 4 ur baby..will kong dude...
my fren pajero got some pinging sound so i asked him to go fix it...who knows he got do normal service and the foreman also didn't do anything to the pinging engine...one day disaster strike when his v6 blown just infront of sg wang plaza...
so is better u do it will a air fuel ratio meter if dun hav..dun open too much..
30 degree is enuff for my car luh...
err. i dont really know how much to open, but i open until the engine soundz confortable.. as in it doesnt soundz it's reving like that. when everything is off, the rpm is 1.4 to 1.5 k .. on light .. 1.2 k ... on air con 900..
:unsure: i also dunno wuts with my car now
lol..
:unsure: i also dunno wuts with my car now
lol..
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for me ...today just fixed my Oil Catch Tank(with silicon sealant>>i hate vacumm leak)....not gonna put MC..wait the air fuel ratio meter is ready
ei windz...i open too wide..my car got abit pinging lerr..abit bit lah..scare later kong!!haha
for safety purpose i fix mC after my a/f meter..
now trying some whistle stuff u guys discuss b4...thinking anywhere at the engine to make it sound..haha
ei windz...i open too wide..my car got abit pinging lerr..abit bit lah..scare later kong!!haha
for safety purpose i fix mC after my a/f meter..
now trying some whistle stuff u guys discuss b4...thinking anywhere at the engine to make it sound..haha
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Is there any negative impact if we use different offset for our evo which still running with ori ACD/AYC system??? I mean same...
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